There's one other fuse for the reset bank, but that probably doesn't matter in this case. Service jack plugged in right? Voltage at all the relay coils?

If you can't even spin the discs by hand that might be your problem. Might need to clean the motor/gears. They should be free when it's powered off.

24V on the coils, should be a black wire, measure between that and the yellow wire.

It should spin freely when powered on too, but can't hurt to be sure

Don't measure across coils, measure from the black wired lug to the yellow wire.

Black lug on coil, yellow anywhere. Think of the yellow like 'ground' on a DC, you need to measure the voltage at the coil compared to the 'ground'. 38V seems surprisingly high to be coming out of the transformer.

With the game on and the service jack (plug on the side of the motor) in the top position (the one with the wire attached at the base), if you spin the motor at all it should engage and complete its cycle. The same as with the coils, put one lead of your DMM on the lug of the motor with the black wire attached, and the other on any nearby yellow wire, should get 24-30VAC.

Moving the motor out of its 'home' position should close one of the switches (C) on the index cam (closest to the motor). Take a look at your schematics for a diagram of which switch it is. Make sure that that switch is clean and closing properly as you spin the motor, and check that the wires attached to it are fine. The yellow wire on it, in particular, should have continuity all the way back to the yellow wire coming out of the transformer.

I'd try to find what's blowing the fuse. Test all your coils, make sure the resistance of everything is at least ~3 ohms. Look for any light sockets that may have shorted against another. If you jumper then most likely something will slowly start to get very hot, which would be handy to find it, except sometimes the thing that gets hot is the wires connecting to it instead. When I got mine there were a ton of melted wires in the mess on the score motor

Common for the ball index relay, lock/hold relay, and coin door reject relay to buzz. They're on pretty much all time time, so they get worn. There's basically divots/etc on the coil top and the plate it pulls in making noise from the vibration. It's the same reason that flippers on EMs buzz when they're held in (plunger grinding against coil stop). It'll be a lot less noticable with the game all closed up and the glass on, I usually just ignore it.

You can try tweaking the springiness of the spring on them, or making the switches less strong, to put less of a strain on it, but it usually doesn't work that well. Sometimes I have success just sticking a piece of electrical tape between the coil and the plate, but sometimes that does nothing. Can also try taking the plate off and trying to grind it smooth. The best solution is to just replace the coil and plate, but I don't usually find it worth it.

Probably not what blew the fuse, as the flipper button needs to be pushed for the flippers to get power.

Here's a pic of my right flipper to compare

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Shouldn't be diodes on ac coils. Dc coils can have them, but that's the slings and pops, not flippers.

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There's a yellow wire and a black wire, coils activate when they're connected to both. If the wires are connected directly without a coil between them you get a short. Usually that happens when two pieces of metal that are near each other touch, or when a coil melts down and shorts itself becoming just like a wire. Try narrowing down the location of the short by unplugging the playfield or the back box and seeing if the fuse still blows.

That coil could maybe cause a short because of the diode, if the flipper buttons were pressed at the time, but it's probably not it.

Both alternator relays are energized when the switch on the match unit closes. In the back of the manual, it had a listing of what each contact on the relays does. The #1 alternator mostly controls lights, if you close it you would see the lit spinner light change back and forth (may need to be in a game though, not sure). The #2 controls which coils are energized when the spinners and rollover stars are hit, so you won't see anything happen unless you trigger them during a game

Disconnected, the outer large spring is 1.5" and the inner is 1.25".
I'm not sure a measurement is the best way to replace it. Pinball resource has kits of the proper springs for different steppers, including the player unit

Check out the middle pop light on the schematics. It's tied to the alternator relays.

I think the two gold bonus stars at the top alternate, but only when the silver bonus is 2k or less. Haven't quite figured it out though.
There's a third coil on the silver bonus unit which is used to do a full reset back to 0 which should be triggered when you lose your ball. Silver bonus is only collected in the two kickouts, and is lost otherwise

Yo be specific, when the third coil is energized, firing the 'step down' coil will instead do a full reset.

I wouldn't know all this if I hadn't been having a hell of a time getting mine up and running