Regarding the 1000 point relay, you might have a switch stack that is shorting out on the playfield. I've seen this happen a few times on Williams/Sonic machines where the plastic switch stack sleeve will break and the switch stack screw "bridges" the power from one switch blade to the other... You can use a multi-meter to see if there is any voltage at the switch stack screws. If voltage is present, then the switch stack is shorting...

Hi bonzo71
the 1000-point-relay problem --- You write in post-1 "the relay locks during reset". Please give more details "along time-axis". The pin is toggled-off - no pulling, You toggle-on - no pulling ? You press the credit-button - no pulling ? There comes the time the RESET-Relay pulls-in --- the pin has Williams-logic - a switch on the pulling Reset-Relay opens and cuts powerside-connection to many relays etc --- cuts powerside-connection to 1000-points-relay AND to the flipperbats --- at this time: Can You move the flipperbats ?

You disconnect the playfield and the fault does not show up --- Yes - there are many switches on the playfield --- but also some relays are mounted on the underneathside of the playfield --- does one of these relays ALSO does faulty pull and stuck ?

You write in post-1 "as I advance the player-unit, the issue follows through to each player" --- please give more details --- does the faulty pulling 1000-point-relay let go for a short moment (as You move the player-unit) and then pull-in again ? Do the 1000-Point-Score-Drums (the one of the player according to position of player-unit) also stick ?

A short wire runs from one side of the Coil of the relay to "Switch mounted on the relay" --- is this switch truely open when the relay is not pulling ? Greetings Rolf

A reading of 0.10 volts wouldn't be enough volts to do anything. Might be phantom voltage or a ground issue, but this level of voltage would not energize the 1000 point relay coil.

If you checked all the playfield scoring switches, then you'll need to check other possible circuits that would send power to the 1000 point relay coil. One circuit has a switch at the 1000 point relay. Check the following:

1000 point relay switch - blue/red wire and brown/yellow wire

Make sure this switch is clean and adjusted properly. Also, check the wires on the switch stack to make sure they are not shorting.

I'd first start checking all the normally open (NO) switches that send power to the 1000 point relay. Since there's a lot of switches to check, let's first check only the circuits that have one NO switch in a circuit. Check the following relays and switches:

Right bumper switch - yellow/green wire
Left bumper switch - yellow/blue wire
Alternator relay switch - yellow/blue wire; white/red wire; yellow/green wire
Target switches (x3)
Rollover switches (x3)
5000 point relay switch - white/blue wire and brown/yellow wire
1000 point relay switch - blue/red wire and brown/yellow wire
Left drop target switches
Center drop target switches
Right drop target switches

Check these switches and switch stacks to see if the switches are clean and adjusted properly. Also, check for shorting wires on the switch stacks...

Hi bonzo71
thanks for the clarification (post-5) --- "AAA" the 1000-Point-Relay immediately pulls-in and stay pulling "when after resetting the Reset-Relay quits pulling and by that establishes Power-Side-Connection". "BBB" the fault does not show up when the playfield is disconnected.
THIS (AAA and BBB) tells us "99.99% chance that at least one switch on the playfield is faulty.

You did not write in post-5 about an "stuck Score-Drum". I would like You to say "I (bonzo71) do want to find the fault (endlessly pulling 1000-Point-Relay) --- at this time I do not want to play and make 1000 points and another and another" --- please do unsolder "my light-blue X" - unsolder the wire-blue-red - away from solder-lug "on the switch on 1000-Point-Relay" --- question: Does the fault no longer show up ?
Most likely the fault is still there (constanty pulling) - please have the wire unsoldered.

I agree with @fredsmithson --- You have a lot to check. Look here http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#fuses --- scroll down to the third picture showing an completely bent solder-lug - the picture shows the bent lug on an Playfield-Lamp - but this bending also can happen on Playfield-SWITCHES. My first JPG shows "encircled -light-green / lemon-green": Your pin has three "Target Switches" and has one or two Rollover-Switch(es). Look-out for a bent solder-lug.

"encircled dark-green" - the question-mark --- depending on the wiring on the left: An BENT "Switch on 5000-Point-Relay" could make the fault happen.

"encircled rosa/pink" - in an running pin the ball closes the "red Rollover-Switch" - this makes the "Red-Rollover-Relay" pull-in --- the (encircled red in the JPG) Switch does move and so along my red line - then downwards: The 1000-Point-Relay does actuate. IF (if, if) the Playfield-Switch is faulty always closed AND the "Switch on the Red-Rollover-Relay" is faulty moved / bent: Your fault happens.
I just show this on "Red-Rollover stuff" --- the written above may happen in "Purple / Yellow / Red / No-2-But / No-2-Ter / No-2-Fly stuff" - who knows ...

If You decide to investigate in this "who knows stuff" - see the second JPG --- maybe (maybe) in Your pin all these relays are mounted sitting side by side and short wires jump from switch to switch --- and one wire-brown-yellow then goes to Jones-Plug then to 1000-Point-Relay.

Do You have the Manual --- in there the positions of all relays should be mentioned: "Mech. Panel / Insert / Playfield" --- to verify my theory of "maybe all these relays are mounted sitting side by side (?)". Greetings Rolf

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Yes, one way to troubleshoot a circuit is to just disconnect one of the wires from the last switch in a circuit before the coil or solenoid. An easier way would be to use a multi-meter to see if you're getting power at a switch. You can choose one of the circuits that sends power to the 1000 point relay. For example, you could measure voltage at the 5000 point relay switch at the switch stack lugs. If there's approximately 24 volts at both switch stack lugs, then you know there's an issue with that switch, because it's a normally open switch.

Looking at the schematic, there are about 11 normally open switches that send power to the 1000 point relay. These switches are the last switches in their circuits that send power to the 1000 point relay coil. The exception to this would be one alternator relay switch and the number 1 "TER" relay switch. These switches are normally closed, so you would have to check the next normally open switch in the circuit...

Hi bonzo71 and fred
I happen to "not being used to work with meters" --- so I do troubleshooting in other ways. This does not mean "using a meter is no good". One problem with using a meter is: There are so many connections in the pin and we may "measure around through windings on the transformer" and we get "faulty to our understanding" results.

bonzo71, the fault can be many places --- Your remark / observation in post-11 is very helpful "let go on ball count advance". In the snippet of schematics we use there is ONLY one spot that kind of is related with stepping to next player - to next ball: When an "players 100s-Score-Drum" is in position-9 and he makes another 100 points - then the 1000-Point-Relay is activated --- stepping to next player would cut the connection. But You are playing ONE-Player-Games and so the Player-Unit is not stepped.
There is another (implicit) thing happening when the Ball-Count-Unit is stepped to the next ball: The pin RESETS the Sequence Bank with the Playfield-Feature-Relays --- see my JPG. IF (if, if) the problem is (lets stick to maybe the Red-Rollover-Relay, post-10) "Red-Rollover-Relay is no good and the Playfield-Switch also is stuck": The resetting of the Sequence Bank when stepping to next ball - maybe the heavy / strong moving the huge reset-arm when resetting: The huge arm moves the armature of the (example) Red-Rollover-Relay - moves it MORE/FURTHER than normal "resting after beeing resetted" --- the switch therefore is moved more/further and the switch opens for a moment and so the faulty connection to the 1000-points-relay is cut --- maybe, maybe.

Question: Is one of the relays (JPG, along brown line) always plunged ? What happens when You take an wooden stick and do (one relay then next relay then next etc.) gently reset this relay - do the movement of the armature of the relay more/further as "normal resetting by the huge arm" ---question: Does this "manually Over-Resetting the relay (then another one, another one ...)" make the 1000-Points-Relay quit pulling ?

I actually made the JPG for looking at (brown in the JPG) wire connecting - talking about my brown question marks - but later. Please check for an "always plunged relay" / "please do manually over-reset every relay and the fault stops (hopefully) (?)". Greetings Rolf

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Hi bonzo71
I still believe Your observation in post-11 is a great help to narrow down on the problem. When the pin changes to next ball: For a short period of time the 1000-point-Relay let go --- very nice - but WHY ? I suspected and still do: The Resetting of the Sequence Bank (I my be right - I may be wrong). So I asked You to take an wooden stick an manually do reset one of the relays - reset-the armature - and (as the pin is doing) OVER-Reset a bit.

I show a snippet of "Sonic Faces" - DANGER - the D1-24-1600 coils are operated by maybe half of 110 VAC or maybe full 110VAC or maybe half of 220 VAC. Please show a snippet of Your schematics showing the wiring to the D1-24-1600 Coil. THEN we may talk about using two Jumper-Wires and force feeding the Coil so YOU have control and can say NOW I MAKE the coil fire --- and a friend looks at the 1000-Point-Relay. We must find the reason why the 1000-point-relay quits pulling when the pin steps to the next ball --- we must verify the theory "Resetting of the Bank" - true or not true. Greetings Rolf

P.S.: I still do not like using meters --- and looking at switches may be good - but we may overlook a doghair crap of wire making faulty connection on the side of the switchblades - the side the wires are soldered-on.
P.P.S.: The first JPG is crap - I made an fault in uploading - I cannot thelete this first (crap) JPG --- the second JPG is the one to look at.

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