I will have to try it. Good for selectively protecting parts of a backglass rather than TTing it?

I saw that. I'm still learning because I thought the school of thought was to TT the whole glass.

I've seen one suggestion for applying a clear cling wrap plastic after TT the glass to pressed the loose ink down.

Bruce

Wade does the highest quality work but the production runs are small and it's maybe a couple titles per year. He's done a handful of titles so far and there's aways a thread on here and RGP about upcoming titles and how to get on the wait list.

But that's strictly bg, and not the pf ?

If this was safe to use on the pf, I'd consider it . . . but I'm not up for disassembling / reassembling, if that's required. (The pf areas of greatest concern that I had in mind are mostly in open space.)

other way around, play fields. Search on the interwebs, you will find info.........

wiponpoly.jpg

This product was mentioned a few weeks ago on a post dealing with ball arch restoration. I obtained it from a local Masters outlet (linked to Lowes of the US) and have found the product fantastic in playfield restoration generally. Easy to use & apply with great results.

I see it's water based. It won't hurt the PF?

On my 4MBC right down the middle there is a small "l" line of paint that has been removed to bare wood. It is right in the middle of the dinosaur there. To keep any more paint from chip/peeling do I just keep waxing the area every so often?

I am conscious that this has been raised in a number of threads. In my view restoration inevitably involves compromises. The acrylic touch up paint is water based so to cover it with water based clear for me is ok. I have had no problems to date & feel that the finish & ease of application provides great functional advantage. If the pf gives in before me I will let you know.

That wear was probably there long ago back when the game was on route and being on and played throughout the day and night And may not have been waxed at all.

My feeling is now that they are in good care being cleaned and waxed regularly and not being used as much, then any additional wear in the future will be slim to none.

Excellent statement stashyboy-thks.

Just recalled something and thought it should be tossed into the mix. I know someone who has a few pins on location. (Not sure if it should quite be described as a "route.") I overheard him mentioning the use of a marine wax -- as in for the hulls of boats -- with some implication being that this was better than Johnson Paste Wax . . . which is what I've been using. I didn't catch a particular brand or product, but intended to inquire the next time I run into him. Does any of this make sense, or ring a bell ?

Collinite #885 Heavy Duty Boat Fleetwax

good wax

Thanks. I'm learning here and wondering if it's ok to use water based wax when the PF still has the lacquer coating on it where it's not good to use when the lacquer's worn off.

Just to clarify PinballFever I do not use a water based wax-this is the one I use & found it good to apply, good to remove, provides a great finish & quite durable. I give it nine coats over the touchup & clear to solidfy the touchup. I have just completed the Golden Arrow pf upper which required significant touch up particularly of the lower yellow section.

minwax.jpg

GApf9coats.jpg

wayner, thanks for the clarification! I googled "Minwax" and found they have quite a few different wax and poly products which can be confusing. I bought a can of Johnson paste wax and plan to try it.

Any ideas on what woodrail this playfield is from?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WOODRAIL-PINBALL-MACHINE-PLAYFIELD-ONLY-BY-GOTTLIEB-/181825341436?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

"Liberty"
http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=5040

I don't recognize a number of features on that pf, apart from what are probably a couple of gobble holes. There are some that look sort of like the rotary cutters on a Norelco shaver (?) . . . and what is that "cup" projecting upwards ?

The one in the auction has broken off bumper bodies (passive bumpers, not pop bumpers). Only the skirts are left.

Atlantis!

ebay.com link: 1974 Gottleib Atlantis pinball machine

It's in Florida...

Someone once told me that pins which have lived in Florida for a long time = free corrosion . . . particularly in interior places where you might not discover it right away. Florida pin owners will likely take exception to that. But couldn't this be said about much of the South, and other locations ?

You need not hesitate buying from us out West, however. Going into Year 5 of a severe drought . . . .

Bally King Tut in Los Angeles, $399.99 Buy It Now listing.

ebay.com link: RARE Vtg 1969 Bally King Tut Pinball Machine Williams Gottlieb 800 Made NR

Marcus

That very same King Tut "sold" in a no reserve auction for the starting bid of $99 a few months ago. Then was immediately relisted by the same seller for a BIN of $399. It didn't sell at $399 but I see it's back for another try. Shady....

Here's a link to the $99 auction that ended in June.

ebay.com link: RARE Vtg 1969 Bally King Tut Pinball Machine Williams Gottlieb 800 Made NR

That price seems good if the PF and Glass are good. Metal can be de-rusted and polished. Wood can be painted (unless rotten).

What would shipping run me? I've never done that. How would I confirm with the buyer he'd allow that, as the ad only says "Local Pickup Only"?

Any Pinsiders in the Ft. Lauderdale area able to stop by and look at it?

I think $400-$450 would be the shipping cost via STI.

Marcus

Front of the cab looked like it was peeling/delaminating...hard to tell in pics but might have some wood issues

So question for you guys who are more experienced. Would it be worth it, let's say, to see if I can get this game from him for $200 or something, pay the shipping, and have a nice Atlantis playfield/parts/head/glass, but then work over time to find another cabinet?

Conversely, is it is just a nightmare to buy a game like this with a cabinet that could have termite or delaminating issues? In other words, not worth it? Not fixable really?

The playfield, mechanicals and metal parts I know I can restore/replace, but I'm not a wood-worker and am stuck on what I should do. Atlantis is one of my "Holy Grail" games and I don't see them come up that much. Shall I just be patient and wait for another to come up for sale?

I welcome your recommendations.

Sorry, duplicate of above.

Termite damage? No thanks. I'd recommend be patient and wait for the next one that is more local to you that you could play/check out. They're out there ....

Well that solved my dilemma. Wasn't me. I'll keep looking for my elusive Atlantis...

with all the rust on the outside I would bet the inside was just as bad.

I would have asked the Atlantis seller for more pics but I would have been real hesitant about buying that game from the looks of it without someone looking at it in person for you

Yes. There are more out there that will pop up or become available. Seems like half a dozen appear each year at least.

(I've had four of them alone so far.)

2 here--sold both to make room for others higher on my list. They are out there.

Ok well it's encouraging that they're out there. I will eventually have one! I appreciate any of you guys who aren't also looking for one flagging for me any you come across. Thanks!

I have a friend of mine who is going to let me know today if he wants to take the Atlantis I picked up. If he passes would you like me to let you know?

Sure!

Not as bad as you think! I was hoping it was not going to be nasty in there but after a quick vac job it's presentable!

image.jpg

image_1.jpg

image_2.jpg

pretty nice! I see no signs of bugs. great score
I am guessing you got it for less than the 500 BIN

I paid the $500. Wedgeheads are not as plentiful down here as they are in your neck of the woods