(Topic ID: 317386)

Solenoid slightly Energized at all times?

By MaxAsh

1 year ago


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  • 18 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Tuukka
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    #1 1 year ago

    Short version: A kickout hole coil always seems to be slightly energized. A bit more during gameplay than attract mode, but still, always seems engaged just a bit. It fires properly during gameplay to kick the ball out with full power, but then seems to go into a low-power mode and hold the plunger barely magnetized.

    Longer Veriosn: Working on a System 80A game, and I'm having an odd issue I've never seen before. There's a kickout hole that, during gameplay, will sit inert until triggered as it should. Once it fires, it will kickout the ball as expected, but then stay locked on... sort of. It doesn't appear to be fully locked on with complete power, because I can press it down about halfway and it will release to being inert again.

    I powered off the game, checked resistances, coil seemed okay. I powered the game back up and checked it during attract mode. There is actually a very slight pull on the coil even, in Attract mode. It's so minor that you have to push the plunger all the way down inside before it has JUST enough magnetism to hold the plunger pulled in. Barely pressing the armature back down releases it. I've run into plenty of locked-on coils in my time, and plenty of dead ones, but I've never seen a non-flipper coil that's a weirdly semi-low powered coil at all times, even in attract mode.

    Thoughts? Didn't know if a bad/failing transistor could cause odd behavior like this, since I haven't seen it before.

    #2 1 year ago

    I've had a few instances where coils were getting hot (not locked on), even in attract mode. Transistors tested ok with a meter, but I changed them out; the drive and predrive transistor for that coil, and solved my problem. I believe your transistor(s) are bad. I also change diodes in that circuit, even if they test good. I've seen bad diodes test good with a meter, but fail in service.

    #3 1 year ago

    Sure it's not the coin lockout coil?

    #4 1 year ago
    Quoted from JethroP:

    I've had a few instances where coils were getting hot (not locked on), even in attract mode. Transistors tested ok with a meter, but I changed them out; the drive and predrive transistor for that coil, and solved my problem. I believe your transistor(s) are bad. I also change diodes in that circuit, even if they test good. I've seen bad diodes test good with a meter, but fail in service.

    Okay, so a failing/bad transistor can cause semi-energized behavior, but still pull full strength when triggered normally? Interesting. First time I've seen/heard that. I'll go test the transistors and see what readings I get.

    #5 1 year ago

    JethroP replaced both the driver and pre-driver, no luck. Very bizarre.

    #6 1 year ago

    Check the coil and make sure no metal is touching it or the bracket that hold the coil in place. I ran into this on my Rollergames with the kickback coil. It turned out that the metal apron was touching the center bracket of the coil assembly. A little bit of electrical tape on the bracket resolved the problem.

    #7 1 year ago
    Quoted from Shogun00:

    Check the coil and make sure no metal is touching it or the bracket that hold the coil in place. I ran into this on my Rollergames with the kickback coil. It turned out that the metal apron was touching the center bracket of the coil assembly. A little bit of electrical tape on the bracket resolved the problem.

    I'll take a look, thanks for the suggestion. Sort of seems like once the plunger gets fully into the coil, it gets stuck in there magnetized. If the bracket and coil stop are magnetized, I guess that might explain it? Why would it be stronger when in gameplay vs. attract mode, if the power is always to the coil? Hmm.

    #8 1 year ago

    Maybe you have a high resistance short to ground on your coil return. Try removing the solenoid return connector and checking resistance from the connector to coil. Also check pin on board to ground.

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from MaxAsh:

    If the bracket and coil stop are magnetized, I guess that might explain it?

    That's worth investigating, imo. The most magnetized coil stops/plungers I've run into are on Gottlieb solid state games. I would try layering a couple small pieces of tape (or a small piece of mylar) over the face of the coil stop and see if it corrects it. There are other means of de-gaussing the stops and plungers as well, but I've found the mylar barrier keeps the magnetism from holding the plunger. The mylar could break down in the long run, so I'll probably have to revisit the solution eventually.

    It made a very significant difference for the pop bumpers on my Black Hole. I was still getting magnetized pop bumpers even with new coil stops and plungers until I tried the mylar on the coil stops.

    I'm curious to see what the solution is, keep us posted!

    #10 1 year ago

    "Slightly" energized coils are a common problem in System 80 games. It is due to grounding problems, that cause the solenoid driver transistors to stay a little bit conducting and the infamous burnt driver board.

    See https://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html

    #11 1 year ago

    frunch Tuukka

    Good idea on the grounds, they aren't done. Somewhat silly question: the ground of the regulator frame, where can I check that against to make sure it's good? It's not cabinet ground, correct? I just want to make sure it's good before running all the wires to it. I noticed two screws to the frame were the wrong size, and another was missing.

    Regarding the idea of separating the coil stop a bit, I tried that and it seems to eliminate the issue. I used a small rubber piece though, so it may just be that I'm preventing the plunger from going all the way into the coil. I'll test some more.

    #12 1 year ago

    Pretty sure PBR sells a non magnetic coil stop. Part # GTB-A4862+
    You have to drill out the old one from the bracket itself and then you can install this new one. I did it on Black Hole and it worked great.

    John

    #13 1 year ago

    If the solenoids release when you turn power off, then it is not a problem of magnetized coilstops or plungers. Anyway a good point from frunch, they sometimes really do get magnetized enough to prevent solenoid release.

    For the grounds, the idea is to make sure that all grounds are tightly connected to each other and at the same potential. Most importantly, the solenoid ground and logic ground.

    To make sure regulator frame is properly grounded, connect a (thick) wire between the upper (-) leg of filter capacitor and frame, as explained in this picture from flippers.com page.
    Gott-Sys80-Reg-Gnd_Mod (resized).jpgGott-Sys80-Reg-Gnd_Mod (resized).jpg

    Then check that all other ground points (including cabinet ground) do not differ more than 0.2 volts from the regulator frame. If you see a voltage difference, tie the corresponding ground point to the frame. This assures there are no ground differences that could keep the driver transistors partially connecting.

    #14 1 year ago

    For what its worth, I've had situations where the plunger has slightly mushroomed and get's caught up on the coil sleeve.

    #15 1 year ago

    Really good explanation Tuukka , thank you. I was following the grounding directions in your original link, but having the additional info helps me understand the theory more.

    Is there a recommended wire gauge? I have a lot of 18 gauge green handy.

    Regarding magnetization, great point about powering the game off. It instantly releases the plunger when I do that, which would make magnetized less likely to be the issue.

    I'll go work on the grounds now and report back.

    #16 1 year ago
    Quoted from MaxAsh:

    Is there a recommended wire gauge? I have a lot of 18 gauge green handy.

    I think that should be sufficient.

    I'm curious to see if that remedies the problem!

    #17 1 year ago

    Tuukka You nailed it. Adding the ground mods to the driver board and filter capacitor to regulator frame did the trick. The coil is now functioning 100% properly, no extra pull when it shouldn't be. I checked it in attract mode and during gameplay, the plunger moves freely without being grabbed by the solenoid, and when the solenoid is triggered during gameplay, the kick out works fine, and armature falls back down immediately as it should.

    Serves me right for not doing the standard ground mods right away! Definitely learned something new in terms of ground issue behaviors. I had never heard of this problem before with regards to those, so it's great knowledge to have. Thank you! And Thank you to everyone else who chimed in with ideas.

    #18 1 year ago

    Great to hear you got it working!

    And also thanks to John at flippers.com for the picture and instructions.

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