Well, let's take a crash course in reading the switch chart. I think i already see a common thread here, but we'll get to that in a minute. There's numerous switch charts in the manual, I'll post 3 of them for easy reference. First, here's the numbered chart for reference to the switch test.
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In this next chart, the positions of each of those switches is shown. Note the switches are the numbers with the circles around them. Using the numbered chart above, you can match up the position of each of the switches on the playfield on the chart below. For instance, the "ball return" you mentioned is called the "Outhole Kicker", and it's at switch 05 at the bottom of the playfield:
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So now you see how to match up the switch numbers you see in the test with the positions of each of the switches on the playfield. Note that the above chart also shows where the solenoids/coils are on the playfield, but their numbers are in boxes instead of circles.
The next chart is gonna get a little more complicated, but is arguably the most important one to get familiar with. This is the switch matrix diagram from the schematic:
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The switch matrix is a very clever way the engineers were able to use a much smaller physical footprint (and *way* less wiring) to read as many as 40+ switches on any game. Basically the cpu "scans" each vertical column of switches in quick succession (checks the 1st vertical line, then the 2nd one, then the 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, back to 1st...over and over). Any switches that are closed (activated) when their column is "scanned" by the cpu get registered by the cpu and proceed to score points, bump bumpers, or whatever the switches function may be. The cpu continuously scans each column of switches in succession at a very fast pace (60x per second?) allowing it to pretty much "see" all the switches at once and react to any of them in a fraction of a second. (I'm greatly oversimplifying, but i believe that's the gist of it)
That said, take a look at the first vertical column of switches it will scan: starting at the top-left and working down we see "Left 4 Drop Target 1(bottom)", next one down is "Left 4 Drop Target 2", "Left 4 drop target 3", "Left 4 Drop Target 4", "Outhole", an empty/unused spot, "Top Left Saucer", and "Right Saucer". Any of these ring a bell?
Basically, all of those switches i just listed from the first vertical column share a circuit. If you take a close look at each of those switches under the playfield, you'll notice they all have wires of the same color as the other switches in that same vertical column of the chart.
Take a look at the outhole switch and locate the white-red wire (white wire with red stripe) on that switch. Then locate the saucers listed in that same vertical column on the switch matrix chart and find the white-red wires at those switches. If you're having trouble figuring out where they are on the playfield, the 2 other charts should help fill in the blanks.Then locate the white-red wire(s) at the left drop target bank. Do they all appear to be attached to their switches, or do you see any broken off? You can gently tug on each wire to make sure they're firmly connected. In fact, send pics of each of the switches and wiring to them. I'm starting to suspect we may find a fault under the playfield that could explain why your switch test is showing 0 when you put the ball in the Outhole and why the drop targets aren't registering. Consulting the switch matrix chart, those are all on the same column: left drop target switches, outhole switch and saucer switches. The reason it's important to check the wiring and diode at *all* of them--and that includes those saucers even if they work in switch test--is because a break anywhere in that circuit can cause some (or all) of the other switches on the same circuit to also stop working.
Another important thing: each switch has a diode attached to it. Here's a pic of a typical switch and diode: 68243588.png
It's important that the diode and wiring to the switch are correctly oriented. Note the diode has a band at one end of it's body. It is there to denote the orientation of the diode (it's important to put the banded side on the correct switch lug or it will cause problems)...For now, make sure each switch you inspect under the playfield has a diode attached firmly at both ends.
Something as simple as a broken-off diode leg or wire from any of the switches solder lugs can cause all the other switches on the same vertical column (or horizontal row!) to stop working. There's other things that can cause issues for a group of switches to stop working, but those would be the first things to get a close look at. Make sure the solder lugs on the switches aren't mashed together or contacting anything adjacent (other switches, lamps, anything metal) and that the diode isn't touching anything adjacent either.
For now, take some time to familiarize yourself with the above charts and try to make the connections looking at the wiring and switches under playfield. I intentionally left out certain info that will be pertinent later (how you determine wire colors and some other stuff)... i don't want to overload you any more than necessary, lol! I realize this is a lot of info to digest, so be sure to ask any questions you have. I did my best to keep it as simple as possible. Once you get the concepts, it makes a lot more sense.