I've got a few rods that are sticking in an array of solenoids. The problem is, to access the screws on the brackets that need to be removed in order to get the rods out, I would need to disassemble the array and if I do that, I'm pretty sure the grommets between each solenoid will disintegrate (it's original 1937 and I'd like to keep it as original as possible). Any idea's? Is there a spray cleaner/lube that will work?
Is there any lubricant that won't muck things up in the long run. Technically, they are "free" (the pic is misleading as I removed the adjustment screws to see how much of the trouble rods [2, 4 and 8] I could expose). The problem is that they don't fall back down when power is removed. No springs involved, just gravity.
I'll start with isopropyl alcohol and see where that gets me.
Have you tried finding replacement grommets? A local electrical supply store may have an assortment.
If you must use lube, use dry lube. Use the attached nozzle to get it right where you want it. Various brands available, preferably has the nozzle this one has:
41JwN0JOZOL._AC_SS350_ (1) (resized).jpgYears ago I tried a couple dry lubes different from yours. They worked really well for a little while but both gummed up before long.
Quoted from Don_C:remember the pinball repair equation: Lubricant + Time = Adhesive.
I would wash the whole assembly with Mean Green while being careful with the coil wrappers (they are paper). Then rinse carefully with warm water again being careful with the coil wrappers.
Now use a hair dryer to dry off the assembly so it won't rust.
When you have to talk about what to use to 'just make it work', the repair is already a failure...
Best thing is NOT to just hose something.in lubricant to make it work for now, unfortunately.
Really, it needs to be taken apart, find new grommets, and carefully cleaned. If the labels are super delicate and you are trying to keep them intact, then obviously carefully wipe them down.
Removing and cleaning inside each of the sleeves and each plunger thoroughly is worth doing. I agree with Ken on mean green to clean off is good. Isopropyl may work, but will probably worsen grommets and may take ink/label off.
The standard of not using ANY lurbicant inside sleeves is true for plastic (nylon) type sleeves. When you are dealing with original metal sleeves, there is probably plenty of controversy as to what to do/use. Personally, I just use a small amount of my go to preference - Teflon Super Lube Gel and call it a day.
I personally do not agree with using dry lubes, moly, wd, graphite, etc. Etc......but that is a topic already debated a million times over in other threads.
I've spent last several weeks scrubbing on an old 40s machine full of graphite/dry lube. WHAT...A...MESS. And the years of the stuff were so caked rock hard into everything that it was like chisle time to remove it.
Best wishes on the repair.
It's awesome to see people still willing to put the time, care, and effort into these old games!!
Be sure to clean all those brackets etc up too! Don't want to just track dirt and grime right back into it!
Ken is right, it ALL needs to be cleaned.
Just if you weren't sure what I was talking about...
Sold all over; Ace Hardware, Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Amazon (may cost more), etc.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-3-oz-Tube-Synthetic-Grease-with-Syncolon-PTFE-21030/202932687
Doesn't take much. I just use a q-tip but try to not leave q-tip fuzz.
Of course this is all talk about lubricant on clean parts! Not something to just smear ontop of dirt in hopes of freeing it up and forgetting about it....again, that's not the answer.
Ohh, if you are wanting to walk into a store with a grommet and look for a replacement, number of hardware stores I'm sure can help. I know it can be a pain to try measuring and online ordering and waiting to see if you got one with all the correct dimensions.
Last ones I got for a project, I was able to walk into a Lowes store and poke around till I found some real close ones.
Best wishes
Thank you to all for your feedback. My normal recipe is to clean everything thoroughly, polish the rods with Simichrome and smooth plastic sleeves with Novus 2. Then put a little Novus 2 on the rods before reassembly. I've never used an oil or grease of any kind inside a sleeve (metal or plastic). In one of my first restorations (actually, it was more of a rebuild than a resto) someone had decided to use some petroleum based lube on EVERY moving part. Of course, it all turned to baked molasses over time, and everything was seized. Here is an after pic:
24 score reels, 12 various step up units, 3 motors, wipers, etc. Thankfully, the switches weren't coated with anything. After the 18th score reel, I think I did a shot of isoproply and used the tequila to clean the parts. Ever since, I always use the SuperLube synthetic grease and oil, but never inside a solenoid sleeve.
Anyways, this latest project is very different. It's over 80 years old, fully functional (except for the sticking solenoids) and as far as I can tell, entirely original. It's more art than game. Form over function. I'd feel like it would be a crime to replace anything. Even a grommet. After pondering the different options, I think I can carefully flush out the solenoid rods with alcohol while containing it to inside the sleeves. Then put a minuscule amount of synthetic oil on the top stems where they contact the bushings and the underside of the switch leaves.
Yeah, like I said, I don't really use lube on sleeves either. I only have on a few metal sleeves because I had to keep original metal ones in old coil. I'm not sure if it's a needed thing, but since it's metal on metal, I figured I would at least use a very thin amount.
When you say you used Novus 2 on coil plungers, I assume you mean and polished/cleaned it off right? NOT left it inside a sleeve. Novus is fine grit sandpaper essentially so leaving it inside a mechanical part would almost be like purposely throwing sand or something in it to further wear down moving parts over time...
I don't know if you've seen it, but they do make that Teflon Super Lube in an oil as well for a small thin drop application. Obviously it won't stay in place as much as the gel, but may help get into areas where the gel is too thick/not as feasible. I've found it useful in tight pivot points on linkages and such that obviously the gel isn't going to seep into.
Very nice clean looking work on that bowler! 
KIMG8298 (resized).jpgI don't leave any visible amount of Novus 2 on the plungers. I like to think there is a microscopic film left on there that helps reduce the friction of the bare metal on metal.
I agree that any polishing compound has a certain grit to it and Novus 2 is a polishing compound. In my opinion however, Novus 2 is closer to a wax than a polish. I wouldn't use it to lubricate a motor bearing, but I think a small amount does more to help than to hurt a plunger. After a few solenoid activations, the metal on metal produces a far more abrasive grit than a little Novus 2. That said, the way I do it is to apply a thin film, let it dry, carefully buff if off and reassemble.
The best situation is if you can produce a mirror finish on the plunger (and sleeve if metal) and don't put anything on it.
I think I've been able to clean up the rods pretty thoroughly with several flushes of alcohol. I'm going to see how that goes and only go with the oil if the sticking problem persists. Even the synthetic oil collects dirt over time and turns into an abrasive.
Yeah, pretty much anything will collect some debris; some a lot more than others for sure.
Glad to hear you are using novus and kind of buffing off to leave it smooth. I was worried you were purposely leaving amounts on it as like a lubricant.
Novus 2 is a very mild abrasive, but it's made for plastic. I've tried several different metal polishes and now only use Blue Magic polish. They claim it leaves a protective microscopic silicone film after polishing, which you can easily feel. Makes metal parts shiny and very slippery. Great for stainless lane guides and any part the pinball touches. I cringe when I read people saying they've used car wax on metal ramps and other parts. Polish it right the first time and you won't need car wax on your metal parts.
The only place I'll use any oil, synthetic or otherwise, is on spinner axles. I rarely use dry lube, but have used it occasionally. Would never put any oil on a plunger, but I can't fix EM's, so I'll just wish you good luck.
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Deering, NH