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Quoted from WizardsCastle:One other question, while I'm soldering, I notice that the solder builds up on the solder tip sometimes, making it hard to melt the solder to a lug.
Any thoughts on why this happens, and how to prevent it?
You need to tin your solder gun tip.
Wire sponge tip cleaner:
Wet sponge tip cleaner:
Use them frequently. Always.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Also, can you suggest a good solder.
Some people are brand conscious and like the Kester brand of solder.
Solder consists of lead (Pb) and tin (Sn). The standard ratios seem to be 60% tin/ 40% lead. written as Sn60/Pb 40. The diameter of the solder you buy is important. I am using some off-brand solder I got from Frye's Electronics that I am having good luck with : Sn63/Pb37, .040" diameter. 2.2% flux.
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But I probably should have bought this
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Both are available at Amazon. But there also several other brands that are probably just as good. As noted, many people like the Kester brand.
I don't know how much soldering you plan on doing so you can get in small dispenser tubes if that better suits you. These are the only solder I can find in small tubes on Amazon. This stuff is 8mm diameter which = .031". That's relatively small diameter. I like the .040 better as it covers quicker. Consider .031 for board work.
If you buy the larger roll of solder, then at least buy one of the small tubes. Once you use up the small tube, you can wrap up some solder from your large roll around a pencil to reload your small tube.
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https://www.amazon.com/s
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One last thing: Solder melts. The two pieces that you are trying to solder together do not melt. You need to place some solder on each piece and"melt" them together. The best example is soldering a wire to a coil lug. Touch your tip to the wire and also touch the solder to the wire and the solder will flow into the wire strands; Then apply some solder to the coil lug. Now, hold the two together and and apply the heat and the will melt together; You now have a solder joint; you may want to put on some sort of glove to hold the wire in place because the wire can get hot. And if you move the wire before the solder joint has cooled you will wind up with what is called a cold joint which is not optimal.
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There are a lot of people around here with way more solder experience than me. They may be able to offer better advise than I have.
Quoted from slochar:You need to attach the wire mechanically to the lug first (i.e. twist it around). Then, the solder you melt on it is reinforcing that joint and making sure the electrical connection is sound. Otherwise, the entire strength of the joint is just the solder, and while it might be strong, it's not as strong as it could be. Get some locking hemostats and it will hold that wire on the coil lug while you solder, no gloves needed.
Also, 63/37 is better than 60/40 because it's eustatic (the way it solidifies is better because it happens all at once.... there are tons of soldering videos and information on the web to help with soldering stuff) so you bought the better stuff by mistake!
Thanks for this information. I do have some small hemostats. I'll need to change my ways. The info. on the solder is helpful.
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Wichita, KS