I tend to get solder started on the wire itself, by holding the wire and solder in left hand, and heat the wire from underneath and let the solder soak into the end of the wire. It seems to make it easier for getting the wire onto the contact point. After the wire is on the contact, I'll try to smooth over the solder, and add more as necessary.

Depending on the age some solder takes significantly more contact time with iron to get mold-able, so the addition of new solder to the wire seems to help that as well.

If the contact doesn't already have solder, as in a new contact, I'll put solder on that end as well.

I'm far from a pro, but that's what has helped me.

Put solder on the wire and lug first, then with your fingers a few inches away on the insulation, hold the wire against the switch lug, touch with solder iron, spit on fingers too cool.

Press the wire to the solder roll with one finger, between pointer finger and thumb supply the solder.
This way you even have one hand free to make a picture.
3rd_hand.jpg

here's your third (fourth, fifth, and sixth) hand...

third_hand_(resized).jpg

when all else fails, hold the wires on with forceps!
Kelly_Forceps_4b5df05c231f3_(resized).jpg

Depends what you are soldering and whether you are going over old solder or soldering new parts.

First, a couple of useful tools. 1, a solder sucker and 2, some rosin flux:

http://www.amazon.com/SRA-99-20-Rosin-Soldering-Flux/dp/B00C3VMU/ref=sr_1_2

http://www.amazon.com/ORIGINAL-DELUXE-SOLDAPULLT-EDSYN-DS017/dp/B01DPS2O/ref=sr_1_3

If you're reworking an old connection, it's best to apply fresh solder first then use the solder sucker to remove it. This cleans the connection.

It's always best to make a mechanical connection first. For example, making a hook connection by putting the wire through the hole of a coil lug and bending it around. Doing this usually allows you to use one hand to hold the soldering iron and the other to apply the solder.

If you can't make a mechanical connection, that's when the flux is used. First apply enough solder to the things you want to connect to form the final joint. Next apply a small amount of flux to each side of the connection. Hopefully at least one side of the connection is stable so that you can use one hand to hold the joint together and the other to apply the soldering iron. The flux will ensure a good solder joint.

You can do the same thing without the flux but it may result in a poor solder joint that won't last.

I was taught that solder is for 'conductivity' - not for 'connectivity'.

Also, check out this thread for the best soldering guide I've yet seen:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1

I often will use one hand to assist in joining the wires etc and then put a long strand of small gauge sold in my mouth and solder that way. It has worked well for me. Just a suggestion

Probably not an issue if only doing it once and a while but the solder is made out of lead.

Three steps. Put solder on the lug, put solder on the wire, then heat the two together. The technique is something you learn after doing it a bunch. A good iron also makes a difference.

Irons should have adjustable heat settings in the area of 600 to 800 degrees. Also tinning the wires then bending with needle nose pliers to form a hook makes joinin wires easier. That's one way anyway.

Always make a habit of pre tinning the wires before you solder them together. This is the first thing you should do always before you solder.

Flux, flux, flux! Its like a magnet for solder, at least the old dangerous solder that I use. LOL
All you need is a little bit on each part to be soldered. I always prep wire with flux then put a little solder on it. Sucks it right on there. Then a dab on the part to be soldered to. A little heat and good to go!

I miss the good old paste flux ....

Forceps? Dem ain't forceps...Sometin' about a clip from what I recollect...

I didn't really learn to solder until I started maintaining/fixing my machines. Circuit boards on the work table are one thing, but soldering on the machine is another. If you own machines, soldering is a skill you need to learn. Can be tricky sometimes. I do like solder w/lead better than the new stuff. The leaded stuff flows better and is easier to work with for me. I need some braid and tips before I run out. Can't find it locally anymore. Will have to order some soon. Considering a nice solder sucker too........

I've had my troubles learning, but enjoy the struggle. I've upgraded my equipment, but there is no substitution for practice. I don't do it very often so I've haven gotten over the "hump" so to speak. I've only recently started using flux and it's already made a big difference for me. My first playfield swap is coming up and I know that will be the point where I get it down finally. There are some good tips in this thread.

I haven't use forceps/hemostats to solder. They are really hand for grabbing stuff stuck under ramps etc.

Make a mechanical connection with the wire first and it becomes easy. No tinning required. Usually solder lugs under the PF have a hole in them. Clear that hole out and thread the wire through and bend it over. Now you have a nice strong connection, just sticking it on the lug and tacking it down with solder is not as reliable.

Get some alligator clips and a pair of locking forceps ("roach clips"); they help a lot with the holding part.

In addition *use good solder*; I'm partial to Kester 245. A pound spool will last you a long time. It's very fine but that makes it suitable for both wiring use and on PCBs.

If you don't have a temperature controlled iron -- buy one.

If you're re-soldering something you removed while you have the wire and item separated use some braid to remove any excessive amount of old solder. It helps a great deal as you can then make the mechanical connection first, then solder it. Solder will not hold as a mechanical connection if there is high vibration; the joint will crack and then you have intermittent problems.

This. There's a hole there for a reason