IF I had a Tron...I'd drill it, with a block of wood behind it, to take the bit when it "breaks through".

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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

FYI - If its a new Tron from the latest run - then it already has ramp protectors from the factory. The only cliffy you will need is the arcade scoop.

For what it's worth, I just installed my lightwires and drilled my ramps. If you have a sharp bit, it cuts thru it like butter.

Last post is truth..

Also just drill hell of a lot less mess and smell. Use a good bit not one that you drill locks out with

You still need the right ramp protector on the latest run, at least I did, but the ramp didn't need to be drilled.

Really? They're coming with the left side of the right ramp now too? Great. just great. why do I bother

Imitation is the best form of flattery. You made a name being innovative. Keep doing that and you'll be fine.

A drill cuts to a precise diameter.
A soldering iron is for solder and not making holes (but can).

You're choice.

Mine didn't, you sent me exactly what I needed.

Technically, most guys have drill bits made for drilling steel or wood. Not plastic. If you really want to do it right, get drill bits designed for plastics. Much less burring or cleanup than when using bits made to drill steel. If I remember right, they even have recommended drill speeds for each one listed on the back.

http://www.tapplastics.com/product/supplies_tools/plastic_tools_supplies/tap_plasdrill_bits/161

A regular twist drill will do it fine, if its used properly.
I have been in manufacturing for the last +30 years and have machined lots of plastic ,Delrin,nylon, acrylic and lexan. Acrylic is the worst for cracking but a sharp cutter and controlled feed rate help immensely. If you are drilling thin cross sections supporting the back side also helps cut down on burring.

If you want to buy special cutters that's fine but really overkill. I have drilled many pinball ramps and they are a LOT more forgiving than acrylic.

The soldering iron leaves a reinforced edge burr that a drill bit does not.

You mean those bits I linked? If you make your own protectors, they're well worth the money. The holes are consistently cleaner. Plus, because I only use them on plastic, they never wear. Last forever. My regular bits are a mix of older and new bits, as I'm sure most other guys bits are here. If you have a perfect drill bit set, you aren't doing enough work. Do you really want to use a used steel bit to drill a new pinball ramp?

They don't cost much more than a regular steel bit and last forever. Hardly overkill if you drill plastic more than once a year. The time saved cleaning up holes is worth it alone. They also look a little different than steel bits. So you can throw them in the same bit container and still tell them apart. Even if they're the same size.

I am a toolmaker by trade and a letter, number , fractional drill set is standard equipment. There is nothing wrong with buying specialized tooling and if that is what floats your boat then go for it.
I use my drill bits in all materials and they only need replaced when the margin wears down that they no longer cut to size or loose clearance and rub instead of cut.

The "special" drills just have a different angle and clearance, are likely HSS and any drill can be pointed the same way if you can grind. They rub more than bite and if you use a standard drill bit you need to be careful to not feed it too quickly.

http://www.plasticsmag.com/features.asp?fIssue=Sep/Oct-01

Maybe its just me, but I would not want to get a bunch of nasty melted plastic all over my nice soldering iron tip

Yeah, don't use your good iron (just like you never lend an iron out because someone always uses acid flux on it - never fails).

I'm usually not a fan of specialized tools at all. My ancient brass screw starters are probably my most valuable pinball tools. However, these bits are well worth the slightly additional cost IMO. If you drill plastic regularly, it's a no-brainer.

Most if not all of my drilling is machine set up and controlled feed ( spindle ) in a vertical mill .
I machined a lot of high voltage test fixtures that was all acrylic sheeting forming a box. Pinball ramps are FAR less crack prone and the only thing close on a pin that I have received that is acrylic or close were the plastics on my whirlwind commonly called "EZ break" plastics.

Getting back on topic I would use any drill but over a soldering iron to make a hole. If you have limited experience drilling holes in various materials the plastic drill bits will be more forgiving.

#30 twist drill is .1285 (English)
3.26 MM Metric

You would want the 1/8" drill bit.
(.1250 diameter)