(Topic ID: 266560)

Solar ride 1st time booting issues

By blbarchik

4 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by frunch
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#1 4 years ago

Hi,

I'm booting up solar ride for the first time
I purchased all new boards, 2x niwumpt cpu and driver, and new power supply. New cable and connections going to cpu from power supply. It will play a game but many targets and solenoids will not score and energize. Any help appreciated.

#2 4 years ago

Ni wumph

#3 4 years ago

Try cleaning all the switches first. With power off take some contact cleaner, spray it on a business card put it between the contacts on each switch squeeze the switch together and move the business card in and out a few times until the contacts look clean. Do this for all switches. If it is a new game it probably hasn't been played in a while and the switched aren't all working.

#4 4 years ago

So this is what is happening, when you press the start button it will try to kick it out to the shooter Lane. It tries to reset the drop Target solenoid but not enough power. The drop Target solenoid is cleaned and if I press it with my finger it moves easily, The non computer controlled switches work, just one or two of the computer-controlled switches work. I cannot activate any CPU controlled solenoids during play via switches. Once the ball has drained it will score bonus and kick the ball out and after 3 balls the game ends.

I was reading another post about bad driver transistors and I was looking for the number and mine do not match the bad ones, brand new driver board driver board Steve Young copyright 2017. I have attached a picture of the LEDs that are on before and after the game can someone tell me if they should be on or not. Three LEDs are always lit on the driver board.
Thank-you

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#5 4 years ago

blbarchik When I put a new Pascal Janin all-in-one board in my Solar Ride, it only partly worked, too...Have you re-pinned all the connectors from the game to the boards? I just "assumed" they would be good, because they all looked OK. Some things would work for awhile if you reseated the connector. You might notice if they slip on a little too easily...if they aren't really snug, the pins are worn out and have lost their grip. Lots of discussion on Pinside showing what parts you need to get, and how to do it. It takes some patience, but with the proper tools it's pretty easy and very satisfying.
I figured out which pins were bad and just repinned those first, so we could play the game. Worked great! You reminded me that I need to finish that job

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#6 4 years ago

Solenoids not having enough power is a sure sign of bad connectors or grounding problems.

Switches not working may be connector problem, but check also the diode boards under playfield. Gottlieb used germanium diodes that have a small forward voltage drop but are not very tolerant of overvoltage/current. Remove connectors from CPU board, set your multimeter to diode range and check every diode for voltage drop of about 0.2-0.3 volts.

#7 4 years ago

I will repin all the connectors on the plug going from cpu to driver bd and see if problems go away. I will also check diodes.

Does anyone recommend doing ground mods to new ni wumph cpu and driver? The new power supply had a terminal to ground built in.

#8 4 years ago

I checked diodes and all are good. I'm going to repin driver bd to cpu connection next

#9 4 years ago

Since I replaced a1 j7 and a1j6 connectors and pins on cpu board and if I'm getting no switch closures on some switches then it would have to be an issue on the playfield.??

One thing I discovered, if the outlane switch is pressed and held it will continuously score almost like its closing other switches.

#10 4 years ago

99% of my problems are gone, what it was was I had to set the game model with the new CPU board, I had set the game but I didn't advance to when it says"Done".

All the switches work now and the kick out holes work except for the drop Target reset coil, like I said before it will try to energize and I can hear it but there's not enough of power to reset all the targets.

#11 4 years ago

I grounded the non banded side of the drop target reset coil and it fired nicely, so up next is reprinting driver bd connector. So hopefully it will fix weak reset

#12 4 years ago

Might want to check the mechanical assembly for the drop targets too. Mine moves up pretty easily, I just tried mine and it takes about the same force to rotate the reset arm as it does to pick up an iphone or two with one finger. It looks like there are 5 springs the coil is having to fight against to reset the drop targets.

#13 4 years ago

In addition to the above post, note ni wumph has gotten bad batches of transistors for some of their boards, and that can apparently lead to problems like this. If new connectors and a rebuild of the assembly still doesn't cut it, you may have to ask them over at ni wumph.

KenLayton posted this last week on a thread where a system 80 owner was having a drop target reset issue as well here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/genie-weak-drop-target-coil-intermmittent-reset#post-5590777

#14 4 years ago

The driver board is definitely from a bad batch, I got a lemon! I replaced all of the pins on the CPU and the driver board oh, it's still giving me the same issues now the one kick out hole doesn't even work!!! What the heck!

#15 4 years ago

Driver bd transistors

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#16 4 years ago

As far as the kick out hole, I'd double check the wire for it at the connector to the driver board just in case of a bad crimp or loosely fitting plug or something.

I'd send ni-wumph an email about the board and get their input.

Good luck!

#17 4 years ago

I called and emailed, no response yet. Are they accepting calls and emails now? I need this thing fixed!!

#18 4 years ago

Have you tried measuring the resistance across the coil?

https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

A-17891 = target bank reset = 3.35ohm
A-5195 = right outhole = 11.6ohm

#19 4 years ago

I check the resistance on the two coils and they are similar to the values you listed.

#20 4 years ago

Conclusion, for the issue with the right kick out hole, my bad, I made a bad crimp, I crimped it too tightly and the wire frayed.

However the same issue with drop target reset solenoid not having enough power.

So i purchased a new ni wumpt driver bd. Installed it and now drop target reset works. So if anyone has this board with Fairchild or 'On ' semiconductor transistors and is experiencing same issue with drop target bank I would suspect the board. Pictures of faulty board attached.

PS.
new driver bd uses transistors from different manufacturer.

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#21 4 years ago

Nice! Glad you got it sorted out. My own repairs have occasionally been the source of further problems...it's all part of the troubleshooting experience at some point or another

Thanks for the update!

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