(Topic ID: 278199)

Pop Art Pinball with Homemade Mechs

By TheSupremePapaya

11 months ago


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  • 67 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by TheSupremePapaya
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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    Motor1 (resized).jpg
    Solenoid2 (resized).jpg
    Solenoid1 (resized).jpg
    BoxJoints (resized).jpg
    FinishedFrames (resized).jpg
    Unbenannt (resized).png
    PachinkoBack (resized).jpg
    PachinkoFront (resized).jpg
    PlayfieldUnderside (resized).jpg
    BombPrimed (resized).jpg
    FlipperUnderside1 (resized).jpg
    ShakerBracket (resized).jpg
    TiltSwitch (resized).jpg
    DropTargetSwitches (resized).jpg
    LockSwitch (resized).jpg
    LaneSwitchTop (resized).jpg

    There are 67 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 26 days ago

    So the CobraPin has the direct switches and the matrix. Out of curiosity, how hard is it to setup a matrix myself?

    If could do an 8x8 matrix as well, I'd only need one blue pill board. Obviously not breaking bank buying another board, just think it'd be cool to get by on one.

    My requirements are;

    1-2 blue pills for,

    At most 50 serial LEDs

    28 playfield switches (including the pop bumperish device, which goes to the solenoid board, right?

    6 cabinet switches (the flippers, the drain, the shooter lane, the tilt bob, and the start button)
    Probably forgetting something there

    One solenoid board

    And a separate motor driver board (I only really need directional control on one of the motors, but dual drivers for little robots seem pretty affordable.)

    I have also been wondering if there is something in the car stereo/accessory area that would fulfill my 12v power filter needs. Going to do some digging.

    #53 25 days ago
    Quoted from TheSupremePapaya:

    So the CobraPin has the direct switches and the matrix. Out of curiosity, how hard is it to setup a matrix myself?

    If could do an 8x8 matrix as well, I'd only need one blue pill board. Obviously not breaking bank buying another board, just think it'd be cool to get by on one.

    Not hard. However, debugging a matrix aint fun. I would run direct switches if possible. It is just easier to work with.

    #54 24 days ago
    Quoted from jabdoa:

    Not hard. However, debugging a matrix aint fun. I would run direct switches if possible. It is just easier to work with.

    Fair enough. Direct switches it is

    #55 23 days ago

    So just a few more questions.

    On the CobraPin, I could drive a motor with one of the coil outputs or on a dual relay board attached to the relay control output for directional control, correct?

    When determining needed current for the power supply, is it the sum of draw from all the solenoids, LEDs, etc.? Just the highest one?

    Added 21 days ago:

    Edit: Nevermind the second one. I think I figured it out.

    #56 19 days ago
    Quoted from TheSupremePapaya:

    On the CobraPin, I could drive a motor with one of the coil outputs or on a dual relay board attached to the relay control output for directional control, correct?

    Yeah one way it to use a driver on the cobrapin for a one directional motor or a separate board and two outputs for two directional. There are also motor controller which you can connect to USB with MPF support. Depends a bit on the type of motor.

    Quoted from TheSupremePapaya:

    When determining needed current for the power supply, is it the sum of draw from all the solenoids, LEDs, etc.? Just the highest one?

    For LEDs: Calculate your worst case (i.e. all LEDs at full brightness). For coils it is kind of the power of one or two solenoids. Typically 400-600W at 48V. It is important that your HV PSU is over current safe or it will shutdown in a pinball.

    #57 18 days ago

    Thank you all so much! I really appreciates the help.

    So here's the plan:

    CobraPin controller.

    Something like this for a dual relay board to control a 12v dc motor in two directions.
    amazon.com link »

    Meanwell RD-125a power supply.
    https://www.meanwell-web.com/en-gb/ac-dc-dual-output-enclosed-power-supply-output-rd--125a

    12v going to coil power input, 5v to that input. I think there should be enough 5v left to power a single board computer to be the host when the game is finalized (maybe some small speakers too?)

    Any red flags on that idea?

    1 week later
    #58 5 days ago

    Turns out, when you have free time, you can actually do things. Who knew?

    Grandparent came to visit and watch my kids, so I finally had a chance to chop up a sheet of plywood that's been sitting there for ages. I made frames for my backbox and my son's pachinko. I think the box joints came out well, considering I don't have a table saw or router.

    Game Room in ProgressBox joint Close Up

    P.S. As no one replied "NOOO!! DON'T!!! OH THE HUMANITY!..." on my last post, I think I'm going to start ordering some of those parts.

    #59 4 days ago

    Looks great! 12volt for coils sounds very weak, but i have no experience with that. I used 48 volt, and i know that there are 25 volt pinball. So i am very interested how that turns out!

    #60 4 days ago

    here is a good video explaining the board more - you might need a stronger power supply based on that video

    #61 4 days ago

    Admittedly, 12v is weak. You can see it in the video. The pop and spinning flipper could use some extra oomph.

    I didn't expect any of this to actually work early on, so I just grabbed an old 12v wall supply from the e waste bin. Things kept working though and I ended up with this playfield and mechs built around 12v.

    So given the choice between an underpowered game or changing the flow/possibly breaking some of my mechs, I'm leaning towards underpowered.

    I couldn't tell if 24v is the minimum for the cobrapin, or if it's just listed as that because 24v is the common minimum and anything under is kinda stupid. But I never claimed to be smart

    Definitely have to watch that video from Jab.

    #62 3 days ago

    You could use 24V but then dial down the power to your mechs with software control. My game is 24V and very snappy.

    #63 3 days ago
    Quoted from TreyBo69:

    You could use 24V but then dial down the power to your mechs with software control. My game is 24V and very snappy.

    That is a very good point.

    #64 2 days ago

    So the solenoids are labelled as 12v, but there are seemingly identical solenoids on ebay/ali express labeled or listed as 24v. The spinning flipper motor has no labels! Who knows what that can handle? It was listed as 12v when I bought it, but I don't have any spec sheets. The shaker motor is listed as 24v compatible, so there's that I guess.

    Motor1 (resized).jpgSolenoid1 (resized).jpgSolenoid2 (resized).jpg

    #65 2 days ago

    Oh i see now you don't have regular pinball coils, now i understand why you have that kind of volts. Ben heck made a mini pinball once and the coils worked great, but of course with a smaller ball. Your ball is regular size right?

    #66 2 days ago

    The balls are standard size. Had to do at least one thing the normal way.

    #67 2 days ago

    Got confirmation from cobra18t. 12v is an option, just an uncommon choice. Probably good info for anyone building a mini pinball.

    There are 67 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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