ive bough sight unseen many times as long as the machine is complete and the price is right. Everything else can be fixed... so thats not so bad given the above.

Sounds like a column or row drive issue with the lighting. Could be a major short somewhere... or also check for voltage at all the lamps on the board.

OH this is bound to be an interesting thread. with that said.... good luck and hope you are on the upper end of this transaction

FYI - I think these are GI lights (the ball return inserts).

Yes, those are GI and are always on. Watch when you first power up the game...they come on right away. The other inserts are controlled.

Start here. A few easy things to check before rolling up your sleeves.
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index3.htm

Does it boot up? Does Trex do his diagnostics test when booting? Can you get into the test menu? Need some more info...

double check the fuse holder. It could be cracked.

Double check for loose/broken wires or connections. Also maybe try reseating the connections. You said you met the seller half way? If so that's a lot of movement for the machine to go through being loaded, unloaded, loaded, and unloaded again. Things can come loose in transit.

Joker Poker or Jurassic Park?

Unless Joker Poker has a TREX in it....

Hahaha! Whoops!

Bad connections on the ribbon cables or cold solder on the cpu. They could just be burned out. Reseating the roms could also help.

I've had this or something similar happen multiple times while moving games. A connector pulls slightly out when folding the head. Have you double checked all of those? Check the manual for the connector number.

You guys talking about Jungle Princess?

^^^ This... I remember bringing my second game home, didn't know squat still... Just played it 20 minutes prior, and it wouldn't work... I was frantic, but it was just a connector that came a bit loose when the head was layed down most likely...

Weird.things happen when games get moved.

A fuse for the controlled lamps is mounted on the backbox by the bridges and big blue cap on the left (8A SB). Should be the bottom one of the two.

Yep, that one is easy to miss. Surely the suspect.

Did you check the one I suggested? It is not on a circuit board, it is in a fuse holder mounted to the back box. If you have checked this one, you need to test the bridge that is connected to it. If the bridge is good, then you need to start running through the schematics and check voltages.

It doesn't do any good to start blaming the seller at this point. You own the game and problem. Focus on solving the problem, once the problem is resolved then reflect on how and when it might have occurred.

The DMD is not related to your controlled lamp problems. Slow to come on indicates it is outgassing and on the way to total failure. In this mode it is stressing the HV power supply.

Since your DMD is working and isn't doing anything odd, this indicates your are getting controlled lamp power
to the power supply board as the 12VDC for the DMD is derived from the controlled lamp supply.

The controlled lamps are operated just like the switches and are in a matrix controlled from the CPU. A majority of the controlled lamps are on CN6 and CN7 from the CPU board. Re-seat these connectors.

CN4 and CN5 are the power in for the controlled lamps on the CPU. Re-seat these connectors. Then get out your meter and measure, meter set to DC voltage, black probe on connector CN5 and red probe on CN4. You should measure 18 Volts. No volts, then go to the power supply.

Check CN5 on the power supply and reseat. Take out your meter and measure the DC voltage at CN5 - Pins 9,10,11,12 are grounds and pins 5,6,7,8 are +18VDC This is the power supply output going to the CPU.

Your problem is likely connector related from the moving process.

Not all DMDs need 12v to work. The DMD may still work and the controlled lamps will not work if the fuse I keep harping about in the backbox is blown. Mine behaves this way. Before he spends a bunch of time chasing down other stuff, I'd just like to verify that he's actually checked this fuse as it is kind of hard to find and is often overlooked. See pic below.

JP fuse.JPG

When you "check" your fuses, are you using a meter set to register continuity? As has been stated times before in different threads, looking good doesn't mean working good for fuses.

Before you mess with re-seating your ROMs you need to measure for voltage. The lack of 12VDC at the DMD is often indicated with a scrambled display which would be indicative of no controlled lamp power.

Reseat all your connectors and ribbon cables.

May be a dumb question, but are the bulbs burnt out?

OK, assuming all your fuses are good, you need to measure your voltage at the power supply. The connectors
at the power supply are typical problems with DE power supplies.

It appears you don't have a meter. Go to the store, Walmart, Radio Shack, Home Depot or Lowes and buy a meter.
Look for auto ranging as they are easier to work with.

If you don't know how to use the meter, we will work with you and you will find how easy it is use and trace problems.

That's alot of bulbs but not out of the realm of possibility..... But I agree. Sounds like a connection problem or solder joint. Get a DMM if you don't have one.

I was number 2 inline for this machine. Hope you get things situated it was a great deal.
Thanks
Blake

Hey tp - First off, yes, the return lane lamps are always on as someone mentioned above. In regards to the inserts, go into test mode and do the all lamps test. Not a single lamp works? I do know that many of the inserts (including the two on top of the ramp gate entrance) do not light during attract mode.

Not so dumb....I have many years experience and recently we had a game come in here with all the bulbs not working. You would think I would have checked the bulbs, wouldn't you? Nope....started diagnosing things in the back box and it turned out that every single bulb was simply burned out! As they always say, check the obvious simple things first!

Try an actual incandescent bulb, not an LED bulb. LEDs may not work if they're inserted the wrong direction. It's probably not the bulbs, but double-check, anyway.

If it is not a connector, it will be a bad chip or cold solder on a chip. Could also be a bad rectifier. Check CN4 to make sure you are getting 18v.

Your meter:

Connect the probes - Black goes into the "COMMON" Red goes into the ohms (upside down horsehoe), V, hole.

Test the meter:

Turn the dial to the upside down horseshoe, 2 Ohms position.
Touch the ends of the probes together and read the result -- should be 0.0.
Use this setup to test a fuse. One probe on each end of the fuse. should read 0.0 ohms.
which indicates the fuse has good continuity.

If your meter has a dial test position that has the international symbol for a speaker, a series of
right parenthesis growing in size, that is the continuity position that should beep when testing a
good fuse.

Get a 9V battery. Turn the dial to the DC 20V position.
Put the red probe on the + side of the battery terminal and the black probe on - terminal of the battery.
You should read +9 volts or a bit more or less on the meter display. Now reverse the probes on the
battery so you can see the result. It should read a negative (-) 9 volts.

It is important to note that if you attempt to measure voltage with the meter set to measure OHMS, you
will likely blow out the meter. So always double check your meter setting before touching something to measure
voltages.

To make taking voltage measurements easier, having a clip-lead, that is a wire with an alligator clip at each end is a go thing to have.

Now you are ready to test in the machine. Set the meter for measure voltages. We are expecting to read
18VDC or around this number, so the range should be set to 20VDC. Set the meter dial accordingly.

With the machine on, and the backbox open, locate the power supply board. It has the big black finned heat sink attached. It is in the upper left corner of the backbox. The controlled lamp power comes from the power supply board so we are going to make measurements. Locate F4, an 8A Slow Blow Fuse. It is next to F3 which is not used and should be an empty fuse holder.

Locate Test Point 2 (TP2) on the power supply board. This is ground.

Place your black probe on test point TP 2, and the red probe on the top of fuse F4 and read the results.
The move the red probe to the bottom of fuse F4 and read the results.

These board commonly have bad fuse clips. So be aware of this when examining F4.

Let us know the results.

Not such a dumb question. When I got my PinBot, none of the flashers worked. NONE. Went over everything with a fine tooth comb and pulled my hair out for days measuring voltages, checking connections etc. Yup, they were burnt out. Every single one! Replaced them and has been rock solid since.

Make sure you know the visual difference between a "fast blow" and "slow blow" fuse here. They are not the same and you should use a "slow blow" fuse here.

Also, going off everything you have typed, you really have no idea if your fuses are still good after you apply power to the game. You will need to check the fuses using the continuity setting on a multimeter to determine if the game is still blowing the fuses or not.

If you want to fix the game yourself, you will need a basic understanding about electronic circuitry. If you have no intention of learning those electrical lessons, then you need to hire someone to fix it. Poking around on Pinside and asking how to fix something may help you gain the knowledge you need to fix your game. However, it can never give you the basic electrical circuitry knowledge the you will need to fix basic pinball problems that are 100% certain to arise again in the future if you own pins. Start with that and it will speed the process up and more pinball people will be willing to help you fix your problems in the future.