As an early adopter of a MMR, of course I'm interested. I'm certain it will include an upgrade to the speakers too. To me that's been a weakness on mine that I've never addressed in hope of this happening.

Can't see this being cheap.

From what little I've seen in videos, the rgb lighting also follows the speaker lighting. Don't know it is zoned or does any tricks during attract mode. Also noted the listing, in case others haven't noticed, for the upgraded display includes a speaker upgrade. I'm assuming that means the display speakers are changing, obviously, but also the cabinet speaker is getting upgraded? Does that also include some other components to support those new speakers? IOW some sort of circuitry to pump up the bass?

I contacted a seller for upgrades and was quoted a price other than the one shown on the release provided by CGC. I assume that prices will be set by the seller and may reflect other costs involved. I certainly do not care to pay for these upgrades before they are available but I am very interested.

I'm confused here, the speaker lighting is capable of color mutations but even if you installed the GI update or topper kit, it will not function in that manner? Other than that, when the display panel and speakers are retrofitted, is the sound "vastly" improved and is there any issue that requires modifications to the cabinet to install the "new" speaker there? IOW, we don't have to remove a spacer to get that sub to clear everything?

Basically the pins were shipped in a connector. It appears that the four pins are push to seat and to remove them just entails using an appropriate pick to release a lock.

I don't know about using a razor blade as a pick. A dental tool of the appropriate size would make more sense or even using an automotive electrical connector service tool would beat holding a blade in my hands and hoping nothing goes wrong. Even an Exacto knife would be far safer.

Almost finished with the RGB install, ran out of gas before I completed the pop bumpers. But I can attest that I like the effect. About my only concern is that I was a bit confused that depending upon which iteration of the game, the routing, mounting and securing of cabling varies. If I were apprehensive of doing this swap, the only thing if I would be concerned about is removing connectors from the board where there has been hot glue applied to keep the connectors secure. And the instructions do not have much information about moving pins to enable the color changes for the speaker lights. But with a small pick and simple following the code sequence of the other pins, that worked at the power up. As was mentioned earlier in this thread, the wire nuts mentioned in the instructions for the pop lights were not there. I plan on using the existing "taps" to make those connections. That is unless somebody replies here with some warning. I also used the existing screws to secure the lights. I guess I have that extreme fear that one screw would be too long and pop up through the playfield. None of the screws as re-installed seemed to be lacking torque to hold the leds. If any loosen, then I will make the change to the slightly longer screws that were supplied. If anything, the one major failing on this game has been the speakers as it arrived. I watched many others and their opinions of what speakers to change in but I held out hoping that I would be able to make this game match the performance (speaker wise) of the AFM that I also own. Well, it is a vast improvement in audio. The sub was easy to replace once I moved the shaker to gain a little clearance and angle to knock off the wood spacer the original was mounted to.

When I soldered the pop power leads to the tabs, I also added a small portion to the one pop that wasn't long enough. I also eliminated the wire nuts to the sub woofer and made that a soldered and shrink tubing connection. The speaker lights and making that transfer of pins to the new RGB control card was simple. As far as removing pins from the placeholder connector, I simply used a straight pick and went in on the open "window" in the side of the connector to relieve the pin. Then followed the color coding of the other wires already installed. About the only other thing that next installers should do IMO is also use a few tie wraps to make certain that the new harness doesn't get fouled when lifting and lowering the playfield. IOW, keep the wires out of a pinch point. About the only other advice if it is any is to use care when installing the new light harnesses since the mounting tab access requires moving the wires away from the tab. IOW, don't want to pinch those wires on the install or cut any insulation with either the socket or screw. I also rerouted and removed a jumper from the display harness. If I recall correctly, I was concerned that the pins being open could short to a ground. About the only thing that was a true hassle was removing some of the glue that was holding some harness pins in place to the board.

Be aware that the tape on the drill bits provided is there as a depth gauge. From my observation of this thread, the common issues are removing the existing speaker in the cabinet, proper routing of the additional cables in the back box, reconfiguring the pop bumper lighting and the relocation of the speaker light pins to enable full color control. This conversion added a lot to my game. And if I can complete it successfully, just about anybody else should be able too.