(Topic ID: 15640)

Smoked my Pinball Magic (it gave me a headache)

By Dawson

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 63 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by pdman
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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There are 63 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 11 years ago
Quoted from Dawson:

well she is not fixed yet... I have discovered 14 errors 5 switches are not working ... the top center and bottom targets , and the miraclous save and the left in-lane.. all out ..

I'll try and look up the switch matrix but a few questions first.

Since you had this PM has everything been working OK all along or have you had issues with it since you got it?

The most common cause of bad switches is "Broken Wires", plain and simple. I have repaired over a dozen broken wires in about a two year time, although the last one I repaired was about 6 months ago.

Sometimes a wire is daisy chained from one switch terminal to the next and if a wire breaks at one switch it takes out several more. You need to look at each switch 's terminals and see if any wires are broken off or poorly soldered. You can also ohm out , point to point.

Quoted from Dawson:

I have also noticed a “leak” the machine pulses and all the back glass lights are on but very dim and pulse like a heartbeat , I have also noticed that a-lot of the lights in the BB are blackened chrome like ?

well my PM pulses and dims and brightens and there is no problem as far as I can tell.
Are the Lamps always dim?
Can you post a video of your Head doing this?

#52 11 years ago
Quoted from Dawson:

the top center and bottom targets

Are these the "MAGIC" targets?

#53 11 years ago

I actually found a broken wire at the sling shot switch and one at the EOS ...great advise pd . but still no switches ..

I have had lighting errors sense I bought her .. just four though .... two were on the “boards under the play field”..

I have also noticed that all but a couple of the LEDs were out on the PB ?

Quoted from pdman:

Dawson said:the top center and bottom targets
Are these the "MAGIC" targets?

no, these are the lights lock targets....

on another note I realized that getting to the red wand flasher is a real PIA that must have been a joke for operators from designers ..

thanks

ps I found the switch board connectors for those switches and its two different plugs.. most are on J7.

#54 11 years ago
Quoted from pdman:

Since you had this PM has everything been working OK all along or have you had issues with it since you got it?

Could you answer this? It would help make it easier to troubleshoot.

Quoted from Dawson:

I have also noticed that all but a couple of the LEDs were out on the PB ?

Which Leds are out? Have you measured the voltages on the PB? You stated that the fuse fixed this issue. Are you sure of this, maybe you have an intermittent?

#55 11 years ago

I have had issues sense I bought the game 1.5 months ago , I drove 1300 miles to get her..

I have not had the switch issues , just lighting issues .. which led me to finding out that it was a burnt molex

which leds are out?

all but 2, 8, 3 and 5 .

I did check the voltages and all seemed fine ..
is this why the LEDs are out ? bad voltages?

THanks TJ

#56 11 years ago
Quoted from Dawson:

I did check the voltages and all seemed fine ..
is this why the LEDs are out ? bad voltages?

Well usually when the Leds are Off it means there is no voltage or very low voltage present.

Quoted from Dawson:

no, these are the lights lock targets....

Still not sure where these are, don't have PM in front of me. Do you have the Lamp Matrix numbers?

#57 11 years ago

Can you play a game? Do the flippers work, slings, targets reset, wand moves, stage diverter and elevator works, Wand diverter, Genie VUK?

As far as the LEDs on the PB, measure the following with the ground lead at J8-3,4,6 or 7, take your pick, positive lead to the following:
F9 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F10 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F11 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F12 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F13 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F7 both sides for ~ 12VDC
D2 both sides for ~ 20VDC

These are all voltages that you say their corresponding LEDS are not lit.
If you have these voltages then the Led or it's current limiting resistor is defective.

If the Pin is working then you would definitely need and should have all the above voltages and the LEDs should be lit.

#58 11 years ago

your insane Pd! thanks
I will give them a check but yes all features on the game appear to be working just fine

except the weird switch and lighting issue,

have you ever had to replace the flasher in the back above the wand ( red one) dammit , what a pain in the ass , I was not sure if it was a bulb out in there or more of the same lighting issue, im guessing more of the same lighting issue .. the bulb fell down there in the back , small hands only

better get the gal to fish it out

Thanks
T

#59 11 years ago
Quoted from Dawson:

your insane Pd! thanks

That's what the Wife says!

#60 11 years ago

D2+ side 18.5 - side 21.1

F1 7.5v both sides for all
F2 7.5v both sides
F3 3.6v both sides
F4 0v
F5 5.6v both sides
F6 0v
F7 15.2v
F8 15.2v
F9 0v
10 0v
11 0v
12 0v
13 0v

I cant believe this machine still works ?
a new PB board is on the way from AU (gal did order it ) ..not sure if this will fix it , but better to remove that hacked board ... it was only 99 bucks

what do you think about those numbers?

Thanks
Tj

#61 11 years ago

check 50v interlock switch? that shows in the tests sol volts test>

TJ

#62 11 years ago

the interlock switch is in the cab It was stuck open .. when I pulled the switch out all LEDs came alive , Except F1 and F2

sol voltage at 79 volts 11%

tj

#63 11 years ago
Quoted from Dawson:

the interlock switch is in the cab It was stuck open .. when I pulled the switch out all LEDs came alive , Except F1 and F2

OK can you now measure the following:

F9 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F10 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F11 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F12 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F13 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F7 both sides for ~ 12VDC
D2 both sides for ~ 20VDC
Added D1 both sides for ~ 18VDC

Quoted from Dawson:

F1 7.5v both sides for all
F2 7.5v both sides
F3 3.6v both sides
F4 0v
F5 5.6v both sides
F6 0v

OK , there is no DC Voltage here . These fuses are inline with the AC Voltage feeding their respective Bridge Rectifiers. we're not concerned with these measures right now.
We need to make sure the above measures, and I am listing them here again, are correct.
Make sure the HV Interlock switch is pulled out.
F9 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F10 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F11 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F12 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F13 both sides for ~ 50VDC
F7 both sides for ~ 12VDC
D2 both sides for ~ 20VDC
Added D1 both sides for ~ 18VDC

Again if you get these voltages either the corresponding LED or Current limiting resistor is Defective.

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