(Topic ID: 224678)

Small shop improvements turns into full remodel...


By cosmokramer

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 55 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by meSz
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    There have been 57 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    20190331_210206 (resized).jpg
    20190331_130247 (resized).jpg
    20190330_143210 (resized).jpg
    20190329_102715 (resized).jpg
    20190329_102715 (resized).jpg
    20190328_194907 (resized).jpg
    20190324_103726 (resized).jpg
    20190307_171334 (resized).jpg
    20190307_152120 (resized).jpg
    20190307_075942 (resized).jpg
    20190307_075931 (resized).jpg
    20190307_075958 (resized).jpg
    20190303_170817 (resized).jpg
    20190303_130601 (resized).jpg
    20190303_130511 (resized).jpg
    20190303_130503 (resized).jpg

    There are 55 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 1 year ago

    I moved into our new house about 4 months ago. One of the reasons I liked this property was because along with an oversized 3 car garage next to the house, there is a 32x22 shop in the back. I planned on setting up the shop for pinball restorations along with general mechanic stuff.
    Here is what it looks like, still packed with crap from moving in. Luckily there is a large 16'x10' garage door on the front making it easy to get stuff in and out...

    20180830_064738 (resized).jpg
    There was a bedroom and living room built in the back that I tore out before I moved in...during removal of the room I found some very suspect electrical wiring, and some "interesting" wall insulation including tarps, cardboard boxes, laundry and trash...
    20180805_074711 (resized).jpg
    Once I saw the shoddy electrical work I thought it best to have an electrician take a look, clean it up, and add a 220 circuit ...we opened the wall and the existing panel and....YIKES! Clipped wires, bad connections...total fire hazzard.

    20180831_200048 (resized).jpg20180831_200056 (resized).jpg
    ^^^ this is the main power coming into the shop from the house. It is spliced twice before it even gets to the panel! Those splices were barely taped and just sitting behind the drywall, not even in a junction box. Needless to say the small panel and shitty wiring has to go....

    #2 1 year ago

    All new wiring is in order, but the existing conduit is not large enough to accomodate the heavier wire. So I trenched from the house to the shop and put in some 2" conduit to pull new wire...

    20180721_102844 (resized).jpg20180805_115019 (resized).jpg
    #3 1 year ago

    New connection at house and power feeding into shop...

    20180901_155437 (resized).jpg20180901_155511 (resized).jpg
    Also took the oppertunity to run a water supply also, seen next to electrical conduit...

    #4 1 year ago

    Out with the 60 amp panel, in with the 125amp...

    20180901_153803 (resized).jpg
    Plenty of room to expand...Im thinking about adding a mini split AC unit in the future...
    After stripping all the drywall I decided to frame out a small seperate work/office area in the back.

    20180729_203558 (resized).jpg
    Framed up a couple of walls and set them in place...
    20180901_074848 (resized).jpg
    All new wire and plugs...can lights in the smaller room...a 50 amp 220 outlet and some USB outlets. If you dont have any of these they are very convenient...

    20180901_153816 (resized).jpg

    20180902_123650 (resized).jpg
    #5 1 year ago

    Electric is done... next up is insulation..

    20180903_095405 (resized).jpg
    #6 1 year ago

    Looking good Cosmo...like seeing shop builds/renos/setup
    I'll be following

    #7 1 year ago

    Id like to see a Pic of you in front of the project, Scott!

    Im expecting this!

    Looking Good!

    pasted_image (resized).png
    #8 1 year ago

    You need to use old tote bags for insulation

    #9 1 year ago

    Is that a YZF 250 in there?

    #10 1 year ago

    No offense, but I've never understood why people install electrical devices in the boxes before the drywall. There's a reason for the ears on the devices. They should be sitting up against the drywall when everything is complete and the hole cut for the box should be exactly the same as the box.

    #11 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    No offense, but I've never understood why people install electrical devices in the boxes before the drywall. There's a reason for the ears on the devices. They should be sitting up against the drywall when everything is complete and the hole cut for the box should be exactly the same as the box.

    Drive over and wire him up.

    #12 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    No offense, but I've never understood why people install electrical devices in the boxes before the drywall. There's a reason for the ears on the devices. They should be sitting up against the drywall when everything is complete and the hole cut for the box should be exactly the same as the box.

    Good point.
    since it will be awhile before I get to drywall I needed the shop functional, I still have work that I need to get done.
    Since it is a small number of switches and plugs I plan on removing them before drywall installation.

    #13 1 year ago
    Quoted from lordloss:

    Drive over and wire him up.

    I think you're missing his point

    #14 1 year ago

    My son and I got the perimiter walls done in about 3 hours...a few cavities were not insulated yet so I can install pipe for compressed air.

    20180903_151109 (resized).jpg
    #15 1 year ago

    Speaking of compressed air pipe...I thought that I would run PVC from my compressor (I moved it outside the shop on a dedicated circuit and switch). I looked into it online and found out PVC is a terrible choice tor air due to shattering and spraying shrapnel. Of course my das used it gor 25 years with no problem but I would like to put it behind the drywall and dont want to have to open up the wall to repair it. Black iron or copper has been the material of choice , but recently some plastic tubing kits have become popular...I however chose to use copper...

    20180902_124035 (resized).jpg
    #16 1 year ago
    Quoted from Jjsmooth:

    Is that a YZF 250 in there?

    Yes

    #17 1 year ago

    Dude, install some central vac pipe also, build that back to a shop vac or a use central vac and it’s great for hooking to tools for a clean environment. But I’m assuming your doing that already

    #18 1 year ago

    Haha, you could do that...
    Or,
    Just pass on the central vac $$ Cosmo and just spring for the FULL Festool line and properly pimp machines out dust free like our long lost pin-restore guru Honda350!
    You know, since you have the walls open and all.

    Good luck with finishing the new digs and all the future projects!

    #19 1 year ago

    Nice job trenching new conduit instead of half-a$$ing it.
    What gauge did you pull for the 125 AMP panel?

    #20 1 year ago
    Quoted from northerndude:

    Dude, install some central vac pipe also, build that back to a shop vac or a use central vac and it’s great for hooking to tools for a clean environment. But I’m assuming your doing that already

    I considered it but all my tools are on casters and I use them in different places (or outside if possible) so Im going to skip that...

    Quoted from dhutton:

    Nice job trenching new conduit instead of half-a$$ing it.
    What gauge did you pull for the 125 AMP panel?

    2 AWG

    Got back to it this weekend...was able to run cable for the TVs and eathernet for my computer.
    Next I started the copper pipe for the compressed air system. I have a lot of construction experience but have never soldered copper pipe before so there was a bit of a learning curve but after a few minutes I picked it up. Although it did take hours it came out ok...im sure a professional could have done it in 30 min

    20180908_151438 (resized).jpg20180908_160341 (resized).jpg
    #21 1 year ago

    I put a drop in the ceiling with a water catch and release valve, the way I saw it done on google...

    20180909_115216 (resized).jpg
    20180909_115209 (resized).jpg
    Then ran it the rest of the way to the front of the shop and dropped it down a wall...stubbing out near the top for a hose reel and at the bottom for a blast cabinet or whatever...

    20180909_115236 (resized).jpg20180909_115257 (resized).jpg
    #22 1 year ago

    I put the compressor behind the shop, I will build an enclosure for it when I put my big compressor in...right now im using my small one to test the system...

    20180909_115426 (resized).jpg

    20180909_115437 (resized).jpg
    Aired it up to 130 psi and let it sit for an hour...no leaks so Im ready to move on...

    #23 1 year ago

    Compressor system works great, next up is drywall on one side of the interior walls so I can complete the insulation installation. I dislike drywalling, seems like a simple job but sure has a lot of annoying issues.
    I moved the TV and arcade sign off the last remaining framework of the old room and temporarily put them where they will eventually stay. I moved a lot of stuff into the smaller work room so I can prepare to hang drywall on the perimeter walls. I need to get some pinball cabibets finished and painted for a few customers before I proceed much farther with the facelift, other than a sheet of drywall here or there in between work. Im trying to set up a trade for someone to come epoxy the concrete floor and footings...

    20180914_154107 (resized).jpg
    Something like this...

    Epoxy-Garage-Floor-Home (resized).png
    #24 1 year ago

    Never thought of using copper for air. I might do the same. I’m planning to build a small spray booth and outdoor closet for an air compressor soon. Good thread.

    3 months later
    #25 1 year ago
    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    I dislike drywalling

    Ok, so I dislike drywalling so much that I found a whole lot of other stuff to do around the house that wasnt drywalling...I avoided the shop work for 3 months while I finished a good number of WPC cabinets, did a bunch of landscaping, hung the last remaining pictures,mirrors,shelves etc from the move and so forth but now Im ready to drywall, mud, tape,texture and paint...
    I hung 24 twelve foot sheets of drywall, I could have gotten away with less but wanted to avoid as many joints as possible even though I wasted some material.
    Next up is mud and tape/mesh, the part I have been avoiding...I have never done this part before so I watched a few youtube vids and gave it a try...here is a few pics at my first attemt at skimming an inside corner and some joints, keep in mind this is a work in progress and there is a learning curve...

    20190109_103151 (resized).jpg20190109_103546 (resized).jpg
    #26 1 year ago

    I "can do" drywalling but yeah it's a fucking pain. Do everything you can to sand as little as possible has become my mantra. If it means more really thin coats then I'll do that.

    Any update on the expoxy floor? I'm looking to getting that down this spring.

    #27 1 year ago

    Looking awesome!

    #28 1 year ago
    Quoted from TheLaw:

    I "can do" drywalling but yeah it's a fucking pain. Do everything you can to sand as little as possible has become my mantra. If it means more really thin coats then I'll do that.

    Experienced tapers sand off about 10% of what they put on. Homeowners that have no idea what they're doing, sand off about 75%.

    #29 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    Homeowners that have no idea what they're doing, sand off about 75%.

    This seems to be my experience so far, but I am getting better...

    Quoted from TheLaw:

    Any update on the expoxy floor?

    I took this picture a few days ago when I was repairing a garage door at a customers house. This is what I want, but I dont want the cheap home depot stuff, the guy told me he paid $2500 for a professional to do this 3 car garage...
    20181220_145747 (resized).jpg20181220_145752 (resized).jpg

    #30 1 year ago

    Thanks, I need the good stuff too. This is one I'll happily leave for the pros.

    #31 1 year ago

    if taping is not something your going to do on a regular basis then hire it out. I see a bunch of sweat and cursing in your future lol.

    #32 1 year ago

    Looks awesome! Looking forward to the finished product!

    #33 1 year ago

    I just got done with this project a couple of months ago and it sounds all too similar. It all started for me with one hole. Yes, just one simple hole snowballed into a full blown gut and remodel. I paid to have the floor done and here's what my epoxy floor looks like.

    20180616_210445 (resized).jpg20180608_011707 (resized).jpg
    #34 1 year ago

    I have DIY'd 6 total a garage floors now from all the houses that I have owned. The first one started with a water based big box kit. The second moved to a high solids epoxy but still from a BB store. Then I found Arizona Polymer Flooring https://www.apfepoxy.com/ From that point I got better and better with each iteration and I feel comfortable that I am getting the same results as if I paid a professional to do it. As with anything, the final quality of the finish is mostly based on proper preparation.

    I am lucky enough to be able go grab it in person but they have several distributors in the CA area. While it does have a learning curve, it is pretty straight forward and based on what I can glean of your technical abilities, you can definitely handle it. If you want to try it yourself and are interested in using the APF product specifically or just want any tips, just send me a message and we can chat.

    #35 1 year ago
    Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

    just send me a message and we can chat.

    Thanks, I might take you up on that if I attempt it myself....I took this pic yesterday, its a perfect example of why I dont want the home depot crap...

    20190109_142849 (resized).jpg20190109_142854 (resized).jpg
    #36 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    Experienced tapers sand off about 10% of what they put on. Homeowners that have no idea what they're doing, sand off about 75%.

    I work as an electrician but have done several drywall jobs. thin coats are better than thick, use wide knives 12" for butt joints 6-8" for corners. I only sand once at the end (maybe a little spot sanding in between) but after each coat scrape any ridges and high spots with a dry knife. This makes much less dust.

    As TheLaw said more thin coats is ultimately better in the end.

    #37 1 year ago
    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    Thanks, I might take you up on that if I attempt it myself....I took this pic yesterday, its a perfect example of why I dont want the home depot crap...
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Wow, I have never had any epoxy floor come up like that.

    #38 1 year ago

    Looks awesome, just like your cabinets.

    #39 1 year ago
    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    This is what I want

    Good luck finding a small dropped screw with that floor pattern Cosmo.
    I had a kitchen countertop with a similar pattern and I had to use a flashlight pointed across the surface to make sure I got all the crumbs/food schmeg all cleaned up.

    Why not get it professionally polished and sealed?
    Or maybe try the new vinyl planks that are industructable?
    We did it at our shop and they came out great.
    Here’s a pic of them one year later with plenty of heavy traffic on them.
    80F0CF17-B765-4BF4-B27D-94D83DD057CF (resized).jpeg

    #40 1 year ago

    Ah yes loosing small parts... A client of mine has a large second garage where he keeps a few classic cars. He has a black and white checkered tile floor and old gas station paraphernalia. It looks really classy

    2 weeks later
    #41 1 year ago
    Quoted from Stretch7:

    if taping is not something your going to do on a regular basis then hire it out. I see a bunch of sweat and cursing in your future lol.

    Best. Advice. Ever...

    ....that I should have listened to, but I didnt...I wish I had. I spent HOURS slinging about 12 gallons of mud and mesh and corner tape, 6" knife 10" knife 12" knife, sand, mud, sand FUCK ME this sucks...but Im done now with the exception of a small amount of sanding...
    Never Again!

    20190129_174724 (resized).jpg20190129_174743 (resized).jpg20190129_174811 (resized).jpg20190129_174900 (resized).jpg
    #42 1 year ago

    I hired mine out too (mudding garage when I dry walled it)! It’s the worst and I did my basement and got kinda good and I still want to punch babies. Enjoying the progress and what you’re doing with this.

    Echoing the BB epoxy. It sucks donkey balls. I did U Coat back in 2005 and it looked great for a few years except where actually doing auto work. And I paid up for their clear meant for “hot tires”. Take up the help to do it right. I love my Racedeck but it’s not the application for your multi-use.

    Nice work!!!

    #43 1 year ago

    I can drywall mud like a boss, don’t know why, even kind of like it. 3 coats and perfection. New construction, repairs, ceiling no prob. Hate hanging it drywall though. Anyone can do that.

    #44 1 year ago
    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    Best. Advice. Ever...
    ....that I should have listened to,

    Great you got it done. At least you made it through... so often I get calls of home owners starting it and then calling me to finish it and ends up costing them twice as much cause of extra work to get it tapeable again. Same goes for boarding the taping costs more cause the boarding is so bad and whenever they ask what it would have cost them to get it boarded professionally the respond with shit if I woulda known that I would have gotten you to do it. Ohh well Now you have the messiest part done. Throw some paint on and you will feel like you have a clean room again.

    #45 1 year ago
    Quoted from ovfdfireman:

    Hate hanging it drywall though. Anyone can do that.

    Careful. Most tapers won't tape and mud if a homeowner hung the rock. More than once, I've seen the sheets installed vertically. DOH!!

    #46 1 year ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    I've seen the sheets installed vertically.

    As you can see, I did my vertically. I read that it will have "waves" in it compared to horizontally. Since this is a shop and nor a dining room I didnt care. My ceilings are 8'6" high in the smaller room and 10' 4" in the rest of it making it problematic (either a 6" strip in the small room or just over 2' in the main room).
    Im sure the pros would have done it differently with better results, but it works for me. Frankly, I think if I would have done it the other way I would have quit.
    My son asked me why I am going through all this hassle if I am just going to cover the walls with pictures, banners, neons, displays,signs, old playfields etc...I didnt have a good answer for him...
    Here is a pic from before I started this, I guess he has a point since this is just a small portion of the "wall art"

    20180829_153213 (resized).jpg
    1 month later
    #48 1 year ago

    Moving along at a slow pace still... I rolled on some texture instead of spraying it. Spraying would have been easier and faster but would have required me to remove everything from the shop and put up plastic. I did not have the luxury of doing that so I researched roll on texture, watched some videos and gave it a shot. After a bit of a learning curve, I mastered the skill...

    20190303_130503 (resized).jpg20190303_130511 (resized).jpg
    #49 1 year ago

    A quick pass with some sandpaper to knockdown the peaks and it ready for primer...

    20190303_130601 (resized).jpg20190303_170817 (resized).jpg
    Then paint...

    20190307_075958 (resized).jpg20190307_075931 (resized).jpg20190307_075942 (resized).jpg
    Next up is ripping, painting and installing baseboard and door trim

    #50 1 year ago

    Starting to look like a finished place now.

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 15.00
    Playfield - Protection
    Professor Pinball
    From: $ 21.95
    Apparel - Unisex
    Pinball Wheezer
    $ 7,500.00
    Pinball Machine
    Nitro Pinball Shop
    $ 15.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Metal-Mods
    From: $ 7,500.00
    $ 95.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    pinballmod
    $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 7,899.00
    Pinball Machine
    Operation Pinball
    $ 54.99
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    From: $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 40.00
    Gameroom - Decorations
    Arcade Arts
    From: $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 9.00
    $ 79.99
    Cabinet - Armor And Blades
    PinGraffix Pinside Shop
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 20.00
    Cabinet - Other
    Apron Envy
    $ 7,599.00
    Pinball Machine
    Classic Game Rooms
    $ 19.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ULEKstore
    $ 7,599.00
    Pinball Machine
    Pinball Pro
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 20.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Pinfarmer Mods
    $ 159.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 46.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 69.00
    Cabinet - Armor And Blades
    Id Rather Play Pinball
    There are 55 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside