(Topic ID: 217006)

Slugfest Club - Back, back, back… Gone!

By MrSanRamon

5 years ago


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#8 5 years ago

I recently picked one up at the allentown show and have it at my buddy's place until I get some more room...couldn't resist snagging one at a great price so now I'm in the club. I'm waiting for the control panel overlay decal to come back in stock at either Marco or Planetary.

If anyone has replaced their control panel overlay, I'd love to know the process you used to remove the old one and install the new. I don't have experience doing decal work so I'd love some advice.

2 weeks later
#25 5 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

The P/N of the 10 buttons on the control panel are as follows:

A: 20-9663-A-6
B: 20-9663-A-5
C: 20-9663-A-4
D: 20-9663-A-3
E: 2O-9663-C-3
F: 20-9663-A-1
G: 2O-9663-A-2
H: 2O-9663-C-1
J: 20-9663-9-1
K: 2O-9663-C-2

Now I need to unpack the replacement buttons I bought and see if I got hosed as well

1 year later
#692 4 years ago
Quoted from Orko:

Could someone PM the dimensions the art blades would need to be? I’m going to start working on a set.

I'd definitely be interested in a set if you end up making em

#693 4 years ago
Quoted from Aflacjack:

LED’s in. Nice drastic change[quoted image][quoted image]

What type of bulbs are they (44 or 555)? What led type did you use? My slugfest is being stored at my buddy's place otherwise I'd just look for myself. I want to order LEDs and bring them to his place the next time I head over there (he's a few hours away from me).

If anyone mapped out the bulbs to know how many and which type that info would be greatly appreciated

#696 4 years ago

Did anyone map out the bulbs and could share? My machine is a few hours away and I'd like to buy the LEDs I need and then head over and install them. Really appreciate the info

Thanks!

3 weeks later
#713 4 years ago

Any updates on the sideblades? My machines could certainly use them

1 month later
#742 4 years ago

Need some help working through three different issues on my slugfest

1) One of my target assemblies either needs to be replaced or removed and fixed. When the ball hits it solidly, the target gets stuck and doesn't spring back into place. I have to take the glass off and manually pull the target back into the normal standing position. How do you remove one of these target assemblies and any advice as to how to fix it? I'm not even sure how to get access to that area to remove it

2) I just installed LEDs in all of the control panel buttons as well as replaced on of the buttons. Now, they all light except for the 4 pitch buttons. I visually checked for a disconnected or broken wire and also reseated the two main connectors. Any additional thoughts on what could be wrong or what to look for to diagnose?

3) Even with a really solid hit straight up the middle with the ramp up, the ball will clip/hit the blue plastic and doesn't make it high enough to make it into the stands for the home run. I lowered the playfield angle to 6.5. The bat mech seems to have plenty of power otherwise. Perhaps the ramp isn't raising high enough?

Sorry for the lengthy post but would certainly appreciate recommendations/advice.

Thanks!

#744 4 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Take off the glass and the entire bank of switches slides forward like a drawer for repair or removal. I recall it is just held by some screws on each end.

You can tell the bat is working well if you hit a ball solidly, and it often makes a "wack" noise when hitting/missing the targets. Assuming the bat is fine, the front of the ramp flap attaches under the playfield. I installed a 1mm or 0.5mm washer there between the underside of the playfield and the part of the flap that attaches. That makes the angle of the ramp steeper when up, and able to get homers.

Really appreciate the advice on both fronts!

#746 4 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Remove the 2 metal clips on the sides of the bleachers. Then you can pull out the bleacher assembly which will give you access to the target switches and lights.

The pitch buttons are all daisy chained GI. If one wire breaks loose on the chain or connector they will all go out. Carefully trace the wires and look for a break in the chain.

This was my problem too. The cam that lifts the ramp wears down ever so slightly over time. Marco has replacement cams. I rebuilt my ramp with a new cam and that fixed the problem. See my ramp fix video above. Now my problem is the fans in the stands keep throwing the ball back!

Really appreciate the insights!

1 month later
#776 4 years ago

Still trying to resolve the issue of the ball not going into the stands off of the home run ramp. Could someone post a pic of where they installed the washers as I'm not quite clear on the recommended fix? I see that the previous owner applied the electrical tape fix on the holes in the cam. I've tried raising and lower the rear legs and have had the machine at around a 5 degree angle and up towards a 7 degree angle...no luck either way. The bat mech seems to have plenty of power and very solidly hits the ball so I'm not convinced it's an issue with the bat.

Thanks!

#779 4 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

I had this issue and fixed it with a new cam from Marco. I finally figured out that although the lift cam looked good it was ever so slightly worn down. I replaced the cam and the problem of balls not making it went away. I still have a problem of butter-fingered fans in the bleachers failing to catch the ball and it bounces back.

Gotcha, I'll order one and replace the cam. Appreciate the response

#780 4 years ago

Has anyone replaced the T Molding? If so, any special tools required? Do you just remove the old and pop the new in or is glue involved? I've never dealt with T Molding but saw that Marco sells it for cheap and figured I'd refresh the cosmetics on my Slugfest a bit so long as the process isn't bad.

1 week later
#785 4 years ago
Quoted from AntennaMan:

I've been having the ball not clearing the fence issue too. I just tried a few wraps of gorilla tape around the spindle on the underside of the ramp the cam pushes on. I figured is the cam had worn down a bit, a tape wrap would do the trick. The ramp now doesn't sit flush with the play field, but the ball still hits the wall.

Curious if you found a solution?

For those that have applied the electrical tape fix to the cam, how much of each slot did you block with the tape? I'm having a bitch of a time trying to solve this damn ramp issue. I applied the washers fix to the ramp flap but it's not enough. I guess I'll keep tooling around with it but likely need to do the tape thing on the cam. I ordered a new cam but there isn't wear on the one that's in there

#789 4 years ago
Quoted from AntennaMan:

I have not. The Gorilla tape appears to have too much texture, so the cam catches. Having removed the tape, the cam doesn't stop at its high point. I'm now looking at the bat mech again. Never having seen a Slugfest until I got mine a few weeks ago, I'm not sure how much, if any, "slop" should be in the linkage. Should it be tight or sloppy? Anyone?

Damn...was hoping that the gorilla tape would be the solution. I have already added three washers to each of the two screws holding the ramp flap on as well as applied the electrical tape to cover some of the cam. I still need the ramp to go a bit higher and was hoping to just wrap some tape on the little arm on the ramp that the cam pushes. I need to find some strong tape that isn't textured I guess

4 weeks later
#796 4 years ago

Need some help as I may have f'd something up. After servicing the machine, I noticed that the 4 pitch buttons were no longer lighting on the control panel (the switches work) yet the other buttons all light. I investigated for loose plugs and broken / disconnected wires and believe I found the issue. I thought there was a broken wire on of the two main connectors and resoldered it. Also noticed another wire on the same connector that disconnected from the harness. After applying what I believe to be the proper fix I turned the machine on and now none of the control panel buttons light but all the switches work.

I've attached a few pics of the harness and would love some pics from someone's fully working control panel so I can see how it's supposed to look. Really appreciate the help.

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#799 4 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Reuse the z connector. Redo the wire connector with a molex style.

My issue is that I need to see what the original connector should look like (i.e. which wires go where) so that I can undo what I've done incorrectly and do it correctly. A a few pics of the pronged half of the connector is what would really help me out.

#803 4 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Really appreciate the pics from both of you guys. Just went and redid the wires going into the connector and BOOM...we have control panel lights! Thanks for helping me out!

#804 4 years ago

Now for a new question. What does your bat mech look like...specifically the plate on the right pictured below. I would assume that mine is pretty worn but the bat seems to work properly. Would replacing this piece help contribute to a stronger swing?

I ask as I'm trying to solve the problem of the balls not making it up to the upper decks. Been working on the ramp to rig it to rise higher but also want to ensure my bat mech is strong.

Thanks!

IMG_20200102_170050 (resized).jpgIMG_20200102_170050 (resized).jpgIMG_20200102_170052 (resized).jpgIMG_20200102_170052 (resized).jpg
#816 4 years ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

Can u post a link to the video.

Would also like to see that vid. I just replaced the cam and had to reapply the electrical tape mod. This really didn't make a difference. I don't really know what else to do as it's so close but just not high enough. On a fastball and a solid strike from the bat you can get a home run every once and a while but that's it.

I also replaced the bat spring which didn't make a difference.

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