I have seen different cabinet art and model numbers. 60001 and 60021?

IPDB actually lists 3

Here's a question. The magnet on mine wasn't working. Fuse was good along with the drive transistors on the board. The small board under the playfield magnet transistor looked like it was a little cooked. Replaced it and the magnet still didn't work. Checked for continuity in the magnet coil and no beep. Pulled the wrapping off and there is a metal rectangular tube that the wires run through. I was thinking this was a fuse. The magnet looked good so I cut it out, spliced the wires together, checked for continuity which I now had and put a 2 1/2 amp slow blow fuse on that lead. The magnet works fine now and the fuse doesn't blow. I thought I'd see what's inside that tube and cut it open. It's a set of contacts. Could that possibly be like a thermal switch that breaks contact if the magnet coil ever locks on to prevent it from burning up? It was open so that's why the windings read open.

Any new Slugfest ramps out there or plans of doing another run?

No I'm talking about a complete replacement ramp assembly to have as a spare.

I know that. I'm trying to find one.

So I've replaced pretty much the whole bat assembly except the driver arm a-6338, which can't be bought anywhere. I have 77vdc (yes 77) at the bat coil. All my connectors look good on driver board. But still can't get the ball to clear the upper deck 95% of the time. The drive arm a-4690 I bought needed the hole filled out bigger to make roller drive arm 02-2750 fit (which is common). But for some reason there isn't enough room to get the flatwasher 4700-00051-00 to fit on with the hairpin clip (to tight of a fit, I could force clip on but then there isn't movement in bat assembly at all). So there isn't a washer between the drive arm and the clip which leaves a little bit of play. Is it possible that that little bit of play is causing the bat not enough power to clear the upper deck? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated, this is driving crazy, lol!

I took the glass off and manually rolled ball you and it will clear the upper deck. It's very strange. It seems to not have enough power to clear it but it measures 77vdc constantly. When I bat the voltage drips around 64-67. I even adjusted ramp to make sure it's on the tip of the black plastic ramp piece. I'm baffled!

Is it possible that the two wires going to the coil are backwards? Can you take a pic of the wiring on the coil plz. I guess I'm confused how I have 77vdc and you have 154vdc.

My green pitching flap was naturally bent up and the end of flap was sitting up off the playfield a bit. As I would try to hit a homerun, the ball would hit the flap and slow it down. Lowering the pitch of the game helped.

Is your green flap flat? Is so, pitch of your game might be too high.

My flap is flat. Also my coil is just like the ones Robert took pictures of. It will hit home runs every once in awhile, so I don't think it's ramp related. As for pitch of the game. I do have it as high as it will go. Not to sound dumb, but how exactly do you know what is 7 degree angle? What did u use to set that?

I just measured voltage at the coil. Red wire to ground is 72.9 to 73.0 DC and I can hit home runs. Has anyone asked if the correct spring is installed on the assembly?

Yep. I have the correct spring on it, not the dispenser on. The angle is 7 degrees now thanks to Robert. Still same problem though. Only thing I really haven't changed out it through driver arm because I can't locate one.

Did you replace the coil when you re-built the assembly? Was there a new link and plunger assembly and coil stop installed? If the coil wasn't replaced did you install a new coil sleeve? If so did that sleeve have to be pressed in because the coil opening had become smaller?

I replaced coil, sleeve, coil stop and plunger assembly. Not sure what you mean about pressing sleeve in though.

I think he means does the coil sleeve just fall or slide out or did it take force to remove and reinstall

I replaced coil and sleeve. Both were new, it slid it without force.

How about the bat position at rest. Where is the bat tip pointing in relation to a clock face? The manual pictures show it pointing to 4. Try pulling it off the shaft and pointing it to 6. See if this helps. If you manually swing the bat is there any binding or slop. Without lifting mine to look is there a nylon sleeve for the bat shaft like flipper assemblies have for the flipper bat shaft? If these do was it replaced?

image-5 (resized).jpg

Ramp is at 2 inches

I have a little bit of slop because I can't fit any washers between the hairclips and the assembly. Also the bat drive arm has play in it like there should be a washer between the playfield and the bat itself. I didn't notice any nylon sleeves either.

Is the bat tip pointing to 6?

It's just like in your picture. More like 5.

Wonder if the new coil is defective or has less windings than it should? If you still have the old coil try it.

Old coil is the same

Color dmd led looks awsum, updates the game and the flag colors pop !

Some screenshots please

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for this flap and/or flatten it out? As you can see it's bent and the ball keeps hitting it as it goes back up the middle. I just got this game yesterday and it needs some tweaking but this is the most glaring issue interfering with gameplay. Thanks

Slugfest (resized).jpg

According to the photo of the part at marcospecialties, it is attached to a bracket that attaches to something under the playflield. Maybe you can remove the flap and bracket and carefully straighten it.

photo here:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14287

Thanks. That makes it a lot easier. I’ll remove it and try to flatten

I Need help with some switches on my slugfest. Game is working ok except for 3 switches for the bleachers (61,62,63) They were converted from opto switches to micro switches and were working ok. 63 was flaky so I replaced it now all three do not work. Has 12v at each switch. I am a newbee and still do not read schematics real well. Just found this club. This is great. Please help.

The 3 bleachers optos normally connect to an small opto board in the back at J2,J3,J4. Is that how your switches are connected? Connections looks OK? Nothing shorted or loose on the switches?

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So the opto board was bypassed. Micro switches were used in place of opto switch. Ball passes thru hole and hits micro switch to score. It all was working fine. Until I replaced one flaky switch.

So I checked connections and they are all good. So the Bl/gr wire is for column 6 has 12v that goes to the J206 connector. That connects to all 3 switches. The Wh/br, wh/rd and wh/or each goes to a switch and to J208. The thing that is confusing is that also reads 12v. Appreciate any help.

I am interested in buying a nice Slugfest. I own 6 pins and am looking to add a multicade and something else (like Slugfest) to diversify. I live near Saint Louis, MO. Thanks!

Why not just replace the bad opto and wire it back the way it's supposed to be. Plug the opto board back in and put it in switch test and see which one is bad. I'm assuming the original parts are all still there?

Does anyone know if a reproduction Slugfest playfield exists out there?

Doesn't the playfield have a sheet of Plexiglas or something over it? Is your Plexiglas damaged?

Also - I believe there are parts machines out there. Make a post looking for a PF, and I bet someone has a decent one in their boneyard.

Just picked up a Slugfest. One of the outfield targets isn’t working. I think it might be missing the switch assembly. It doesn’t register when it’s hit and doesn’t lock into place (missing a spring?)

Anyhow I’m trying to get back there to fix it. I took off the outfield plastic, removed the two black brackets and started to slide the whole piece out but I am getting some resistance. So how do I remove this part?

You need to unplug the opto connectors from the opto board that is mounted inside the back of the cabinet, as well as the GI connector.