In response to Bob above here's the procedure I went through:
1. I removed the staples on the overlay. Mine was stapled on both ends (there was at least 20 staples)
2. One I removed the staples I was able to peel back the existing overlay. In my experience the overlay did not stick very well to the bullnose part of the control panel. That being said when I peeled it back some of the wood came along with it.
3. I didn't bother using a heat gun to remove the overlay. I just used a spatula and scrapper. The overlay eventually game off (in pieces)
4. The next step is the most challenging. I just used goo gone and a scrapper to get off most of the old glue. There was very little glue residue on the bullnose portion of the panel.
5. Once I got most of the glue off I then use an orbital sander to remove the balance and smooth out the bullnose portion of the panel.
6. After seeing many panels fail in seemingly the same location I quickly discovered why. On my CPO there is an aluminum panel on the flat portion of the panel that transitions to a wood bullnose. At the transition point there is a .125" gap, which I believe is the reason why it always fails at the point.
7. I then used wood putty to repair the bullnose portion and attempt to smooth out the .125" gap. After drying I sanded down the area smooth thus eliminating the gap.
8. I then completed final cleaning of the panel in order to prep for the new overlay
9. I peeled off the new overlay, and used the wet method to apply to the panel. You need to be careful and make sure you place the overlay over the switch holes. Note that they don't align perfectly. What I did was get it close, and then installed a few switches to make sure it aligned properly. This won't be as much of an issue for Bob's since his doesn't have pre drilled holes.
10. The next step is where it got challenging for me. On the old overlay the panel was overlapped under the bullnose about .75" and then stapled. The new overlay had about a 1/2" to work with so pulling the overlay tight, and then stapling was a challenge.
11. I then moved to the top of the panel, and repeated the same process. What made this challenging was the new panel was at least an inch shorter (in width) so I stapled to the edge. The problem is it created too much tension, and would pull the panel up from the flat portion of the panel. I would trim the overlay the top edge of the aluminum panel and call it good.
12. I then let mine dry overnight and then installed the switch harness, and front molding.
I agree with Bob's procedure with a couple caveats. I believe its important to fill the gap between the aluminum panel and the bullnose. I would also wrap the new panel around the bullnose and staple as Im not convinced it will hold up in the long run (I could be wrong). On the top end I would just trim at the edge