(Topic ID: 217006)

Slugfest Club - Back, back, back… Gone!

By MrSanRamon

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 744 posts
  • 77 Pinsiders participating
  • Topic is favorited by 35 Pinsiders


Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 175 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_20190921_154205851 (resized).jpg
IMG_1395 (resized).JPG
CF63EC90-A930-4F1D-88B0-2BE2DD5A7EA6 (resized).jpeg
56F86916-74BE-4FA1-BDFD-E5BE709380DA (resized).jpeg
DSCF0658 (resized).JPG
DSCF0659 (resized).JPG
DSCF0666 (resized).JPG
DSCF0661 (resized).JPG
20181029_113023 (resized).jpg
20181019_130809 (resized).jpg
20190727_081637 (resized).jpg
20190720_172139 (resized).jpg
buttons (resized).JPG
DSCF0658 (resized).JPG
DSCF0660 (resized).JPG
DSCF0659 (resized).JPG

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ptownpin.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I recently picked one up at the allentown show and have it at my buddy's place until I get some more room...couldn't resist snagging one at a great price so now I'm in the club. I'm waiting for the control panel overlay decal to come back in stock at either Marco or Planetary.
If anyone has replaced their control panel overlay, I'd love to know the process you used to remove the old one and install the new. I don't have experience doing decal work so I'd love some advice.

Id be interested in this process as well. I have my eye on a few local Slug Fests, but they all need a new control panel overlay

1 week later
#68 1 year ago

I feel so much better that Robert is learning all the ins and outs of this machine Keep it up Robert ....

1 week later
#103 1 year ago

Anyone replace the T molding on the Slugfest? If so what where did you buy the molding, and what color red did you use (not that it really matters)? Also wondering if anyone has paint matched the Slugfest blue paint?

#106 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

The cabinet colors will vary from game to game depending the life if the machine...color changes due to age or fade. There isn't a color that will match from game to game perfectly.
There are a couple of ways to get really close. One, take the game (or a piece of the thing to match) to HD , Sherwin Williams, Lowes, etc and have them scan and give you the color code. But then you need to find the right type of paint to use to touch-up with that code.
Another way is to follow some of the advice given here:
But in reality it's really difficult to match the screened cabinets with paint.
I know people that can match colors really well by eye, Cliffy is one of those people. The biggest issue is how to move a 300# machine around to get a paint match, or taking it apart to be able to lug around a smaller piece of the game to get a paint match.
One way to get sort of close would be to cut a piece of decal from under a leg and use it, but knowing that it probably doesn't have any fade.

Thanks Bob....I was mainly thinking about repainting the inside side walls of the cabinet...theres a few minor scratches, but not too bad

#110 1 year ago

Was working on my Slugfest card dispenser today...everything seems to operate properly. Was wondering if anyone has a source for baseball cards that work in the machine? Apparently they can't be glossy (per a youtube video)...also I'm missing the bottom chute was hoping someone out there knows where to locate one.

#114 1 year ago

Thanks Guys....anyone know where to locate a card chute?

#115 1 year ago
Quoted from roar:

I’ve seen a set of cards show up on eBay from time to time did you check there? Never mind... I just did... ebay.com link If you’re local to me I’ve got a bunch of the right vintage you’re welcome to. Don’t see your local posted.

I appreciate the offer....I'm located in the Bay Area...probably a little far to pick up a few cards

#121 1 year ago

Has anyone changed out the speakers on a Slugfest? Mine work, but their pretty bad....if so be great to know what you used

#123 1 year ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

I just read in the slugfest instruction book that there is a setting that makes every pitch a random pitch, even in 2 player mode. this setting can be found in the feature adjustments under auto pitch select. There is 3 settings, 1.Never, 2.Only 1-player, 3. Always.
I have a feeling that yours may be set on always.

thanks....u might be correct....let me check that out

#133 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

I bought some replacement speakers from Newark, they arrived today.
I'll probably put them in tomorrow and see if if they turn out.

Let me know....did you buy the two in the back box along with the cheap sub in the bottom of the cabinet?

#134 1 year ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

how much T-molding is required for slugfest? would 20ft be enough?

I bought 40 because theres a good chance I'll screw it up

#137 1 year ago

Thanks for posting Bob...I was thinking about just purchasing speakers from pinball pro

Option 1: http://pinballpro.net/shop/williams-system-11-back-box-speaker-kit-tr-11wh/

Option 2: http://pinballpro.net/shop/williams-system-11-kit/

Both are a little pricey for Slugfest....

#140 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

I'll have the cabinet speaker in this morning, you can come over and listen and see what you think.

Thanks Robert...I have a busy kid weekend, but possibly next week. I love the price on the cabinet speaker would u say its a noticeable difference? I suspect it would be as the stock speakers are really bad (at least mine are).

#145 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Well, they are using a 5 1/4 inch speaker on the 4 inch speaker size while I used a 5 inch. Their adapter looks a bit thin (in my opinion from looking at the picture on their site) to work well.
I am going to make a new adapter for the 5 inch to 4 inch side about 0.4 or 0.6 inches thick (2 or 3 sheets of plexy I have on hand).
I prefer that the backbox have balanced sound coming from both sides using 2 identical speakers, just my preference. Also there aren't very many sub base sounds on Slugfest to need a woofer in the BB.
So for me, the 2 @ 5" in the BB and 1 @ 6.5 inch in the cabinet sounds good.
The 5-inch speaker (11C1076) costs $7.65 each. I paid $46.67 for all 3 speakers, including shipping. The speakers arrived about 2 days after I ordered. I'm kind of cheap, so $154 + shipping sounds like too much to me.

I like a nice solution thats less that $50 ... that being said not sure I have the time to make the appropriate adapters....I suspect your speakers are more than adequate as theres not a lot of sound that comes from the machine ... its basically one or two word comments i.e. "play ball", "your out", "strike 1", "ball 1", etc....

#146 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Working on the batting mechanism, new and worn part:

I ordered 1 of these and 3 came in the box and in all of them, the oval cut is too small. A couple of minutes with the flat file opened it up so the bushing would fit and slide properly.

I had the same issue with mine. I changed the same part along with a new coil, and the batting is much better...my only issue with pitching is the fast ball veers to the right about 25% of the time....all the other pitches seem to work fine

#149 1 year ago
Quoted from Ranhorton:

Yours is totally different than mine. Does your game throw good curveballs and screwballs? If so I am totally adjusting my opto distruptor to match yours.
Thanks for the pic!

My pitch mech is setup like Roberts....mine throws great curve balls and screw balls (most of the time)....my only issue is getting consistent fast balls.

#154 1 year ago

Thats great Robert...what are you going to paint? In my ideal world I'd paint the inside walls on my cabinet, and then touch of a few other places. I wonder what would look best on the inside (gloss, semi gloss, or flat)?

I replaced my RED T molding over the weekend, and it looks great

#160 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

I made a better 4" to 5" speaker adapter today for the RHS BB speaker.
I don't want to cut a larger hole in the speaker panel so I made this one with T-nuts. If someone wants me to, I'll post my sketch.

This looks very clean....great work Bob...I'm going to order your suggested setup today....

#162 1 year ago

sounds great Bob....I'm heading out of town tomorrow for 8 days fishing in Alaska. I'll touch base when I return

1 week later
#174 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

I put a white LED at the home run insert. It's OK, but since the insert is clear you can see the LED outline when it's off and see the LED when it's on. This will probably be an issue with any LED color.
I have been thinking of changing the home run insert color to "orange" and putting an orange LED there.
I have the first version, which Slugfest version do you have? The easy way to tell is in the second version, the upper playfield “Double” inserts are orange, not blue.

Mine are blue so I guess mine is a first edition...good to know...new speakers land here on Friday. For some reason it took them 3 days to ship?

#180 1 year ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

for anyone wanting to add some light under the playfield plastics or anywhere for that matter, I have found that comet pinball has a perfect solution. The Matrix system is not only affordable but also extremely easy to install and use. It basically gives you total freedom when adding Light to your pin. they even sell a brightness adjuster. check em out here

very slick....got my new SlugFest speakers today. That combined with Bob's help I'll get them installed this weekend

#187 1 year ago

Wow they just came out with a color DMD for SlugFest....yes pricey relative to what the game is worth, but u can always remove and use on another game...ordered mine today

#191 1 year ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

did you go with LCD or LED?

I went with the LED https://www.colordmd.com/led.html ...my other games have the LCD, but with Slugfest this one made more sense. I also changed out the speakers per Bob's recommendation and what a difference....next task is to tackle the control panel overlay...looks like a pain in the rear

#193 1 year ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Do you have a link to those speakers?

Check out post #135 of this thread...I ordered mine from Newark...it was like $50 for the three speakers. I looked into pinball pro, but spending $150 seemed like overkill for Slugfest.

#204 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Did you have to do much to the adapters I made to install the speakers?

I had to trim one of the adapters, but for the most part they fit perfectly....thanks again

#206 1 year ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

I just put these bad boys on slugfest today. Pingulps from pinball life, and decals off etsy. Thinking about putting led strips in cup holders to make em pop.
[quoted image][quoted image]

They look great....I'm looking forward to installing the color dmd tomorrow

#208 1 year ago
Quoted from MadMaxDad:

It's definitely the most "involved" install for a ColorDMD - but not hard. Just takes longer than a typical pin by flipping down the speaker panel - since you have to take most of the head apart to get to the DMD.
There will be some step-by-step instructions on the the ColorDMD site soon.
Take the card off the LED panel and screw it to the board where the DMD wires come through.
*While you have the head apart - it's a good opportunity to swap bulbs for LEDs
Send me a note if you run into anything while putting the ColorDMD in.

Thanks for the insight. Sounds like you've already done this? mine shows up tomorrow and will start the process although not sure the instructions (or the firmware) will be on colordmd's site ?

#210 1 year ago
Quoted from MadMaxDad:

The ROM will be up there soon - I'd guess this week.
Yes - I installed my LED ColorDMD about a year ago

Are you running color on your dmd yet?

#213 1 year ago
Quoted from stangbat:

In case you can't read between the lines, he's the guy who colored it.
I also sold him the Slugfest that started all this.

I figured that was the case...nice work getting him motivated to color this great game. My color dmd arrived today, but unfortunately no ROM available yet...

#215 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

sometime Friday!! At leas that gives you some time to install the display. For me, I have to repair some boards to get my project working before I'll be able to even think about getting a ColorDMD.

Its easier to just do it all at the same time....hopefully it gets released soon

#226 1 year ago

I just installed the colordmd into my Slugfest. The only caveat to the instructions provided is that I DID NOT have to remove the head in order to get access to the dmd. I removed the glass from the bottom by removing the 4 screws holding the bracket. The install was a bit of a pain in the rear compared to standard pinball games, but overall not too bad. Now just waiting on the firmware.

#227 1 year ago

Quick question: on all the other colordmd products Ive installed there is always a ground wire connected directly to the dmd. In slugfest there is no place to connect a ground wire....is that an issue?

#229 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

If there is a ground wire on the colordmd you could probably run a ground wire to one of the speakers.

As you know normally you mount the ColorDmd to existing mounts on the panel, which allows you to place a ground wire on one of the posts. When you install the colorDMD on a slugfest there are no mounting posts. You basically mount the panel to the existing plastic stand offs. I could always run a ground wire to the edge of the panel, but wondering if its necessary.

#233 1 year ago

Just installed the colorDmd....it looks great...

#238 1 year ago

In response to Bob above here's the procedure I went through:

1. I removed the staples on the overlay. Mine was stapled on both ends (there was at least 20 staples)
2. One I removed the staples I was able to peel back the existing overlay. In my experience the overlay did not stick very well to the bullnose part of the control panel. That being said when I peeled it back some of the wood came along with it.
3. I didn't bother using a heat gun to remove the overlay. I just used a spatula and scrapper. The overlay eventually game off (in pieces)
4. The next step is the most challenging. I just used goo gone and a scrapper to get off most of the old glue. There was very little glue residue on the bullnose portion of the panel.
5. Once I got most of the glue off I then use an orbital sander to remove the balance and smooth out the bullnose portion of the panel.
6. After seeing many panels fail in seemingly the same location I quickly discovered why. On my CPO there is an aluminum panel on the flat portion of the panel that transitions to a wood bullnose. At the transition point there is a .125" gap, which I believe is the reason why it always fails at the point.
7. I then used wood putty to repair the bullnose portion and attempt to smooth out the .125" gap. After drying I sanded down the area smooth thus eliminating the gap.
8. I then completed final cleaning of the panel in order to prep for the new overlay
9. I peeled off the new overlay, and used the wet method to apply to the panel. You need to be careful and make sure you place the overlay over the switch holes. Note that they don't align perfectly. What I did was get it close, and then installed a few switches to make sure it aligned properly. This won't be as much of an issue for Bob's since his doesn't have pre drilled holes.
10. The next step is where it got challenging for me. On the old overlay the panel was overlapped under the bullnose about .75" and then stapled. The new overlay had about a 1/2" to work with so pulling the overlay tight, and then stapling was a challenge.
11. I then moved to the top of the panel, and repeated the same process. What made this challenging was the new panel was at least an inch shorter (in width) so I stapled to the edge. The problem is it created too much tension, and would pull the panel up from the flat portion of the panel. I would trim the overlay the top edge of the aluminum panel and call it good.
12. I then let mine dry overnight and then installed the switch harness, and front molding.

I agree with Bob's procedure with a couple caveats. I believe its important to fill the gap between the aluminum panel and the bullnose. I would also wrap the new panel around the bullnose and staple as Im not convinced it will hold up in the long run (I could be wrong). On the top end I would just trim at the edge

#242 1 year ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

hey guys- disregard last post- had changed all the bulbs to LED's and looks like I had a bad bulb out of the bag- up and running now

Happy u got it all figured out....I'm sure your aware of this, but in my experience when an LED doesn't work the first time I can typically remove the bulb and do one of two things to get it to work (99% of the time). The first is to gently bend the wires to the outside so theres guaranteed contact. The second is to swap the bulb 180 degrees....its pretty rare that a new LED is bad, but I guess it happens...

#245 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

A video of my color DMD...

I'll try to add a bit more after I finish putting the machine back together

Looks great Bob....happy to see your display snapped right into the stand offs. I had to use zip ties to secure mine

I love the color dmd....

#247 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

It wasn't that straight forward for me to get the colordmd installed, and the instructions weren't that great.
I decided to drill a hole in the panel the DMD is attached to so I could get both the power cable and the ribbon cable to the backside of that panel. The way the DMD is attached the wires would be next to impossible (on my machine) to get them to the backside.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I also struggled a bit with the attachment of the DMD to the panel, so I pulled out the 2 plastic posts in the center on the back panel and put 2 long screws through the DMD and through the back panel (where the plastic posts were) and put a washer and nut on the backside. I tightened the screws just a bit more than finger tight to not bend the DMD. I didn't use lock nuts, but I did double nut the screw to keep the nut from backing off.
[quoted image]
A pic of how I attached the DMD circuit board to the backside of the panel.
[quoted image]

wow yours was a bit of a pain in the ass. On mine the plastic posts were shot (probably by me when I removed the old DMD) so I used tie straps to secure (I fed them through the existing slots on the plastic post, and then through the holes on the dmd). I mounted my board in roughly the same location, but my cables were long enough to fit through the existing hole (barely)

#250 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

The screw idea is good, I use the other 4 posts as guides to get the DMD aligned, but the since the screws are in the center of the DMD, I have a bit of an alignment issue. The DMD isn't perfectly horizontal, or when I make it perfectly horizontal it eventually drops a bit on one end.
I have a couple of ideas to correct the sagging, and will post my solution when I get it done.
All in all, it's really not an easy task to add a colordmd to Slugfest.

Mine aligned perfectly using the existing plastic posts..when I cinched down on the small tie straps it secured the dmd in place...its not going anywhere...just a thought if u want to change course?

#261 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

I changed the baseball cards to Oakland A's and SF Giants Graphics...pic is a bit grainy but viewable.
[quoted image]

Bob - Did you add the lights behind the netting? I don't have those and its a great idea to add

#264 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

They are standard...you have them on your game, but perhaps burned out or a wire broken.
You can access them by opening the back of the machine and they are on the back board right there, 3 or 4 sockets and lamps.

Yep...spot on...all three of mine were out....surprised I missed those...all fixed now


#271 1 year ago

very cool !

#273 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

I've been thinking/working on doing a possible re-theme too Slugfest cabinet art...I started with the Oakland A's.
Here is a bit of background and lettering. Still working to design an entire side. Nice comments welcome!
[quoted image]

A's on one side and the Giants on the other Adding some the great players to the art work would be cool along with the world series wins for both teams

#278 1 year ago
Quoted from Jerryuop:

I’m pretty sure it’s a pitching issue! The fastball is ridiculously fast after I cleaned off the playfield. Seriously, you almost need to swing right when the pitch comes out! I don’t believe the angle was changed at all.
1 other question.... how often can you guys throw out a stealing base runner? I’m about 2 for 50. None of my friends has ever been successful when playing each other. It almost seems unfair. Is this “to be expected”, “a setting that can be changed” or “possible issue with the throw out runner button”. I’m the only one that has ever thrown a runner out. I have amazing reflexes. Comes from working with special education students for 15 years!

You might have to adjust the ball flap on the play field? Try bending it down a little which should slow down the ball.

#284 1 year ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

Some pics of my Slugfest work in progress - all new LED's, new trim and added new legs painted to match the trim A few more things to do but getting better every week
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Your side art looks really nice (almost no fade)....if u install a new CPO it would look great. Those CPO's all fail at the exact same location (right at the bullnose). When you remove the decal you'll see why

#285 1 year ago

Bob -

Not sure if your interested, but I did save the backing (has all the holes) of my NOS control panel overlay. I figured we might need it to mark the new holes in the ones you made? I understand you can just install and then cut the holes later, but I think having the holes precut really helps with perfect alignment.

#287 1 year ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

The side art being in such good shape is what sold me on this machine. I have to say I am having as much fun, maybe more, fixing it all up than playing it. It really is best with two people and so far a good game with a group of people over.

I couldn't agree more...its a really fun 2 player game. My kids love that aspect of the game. You should really consider replacing the CPO decal. It would match up perfectly with your side art....my game has the front decal, which I think adds to the look of the game. That being said after I changed the CPO decal the front art looks really faded...Im wondering if early run machines didn't have the decal or possibly they were later runs that didnt have the decal for some reason?

#289 1 year ago

For all who are interested. I spoke to Planetary today, and they told me new SlugFest decals are on order, and should be available for purchase soon.

#291 1 year ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

as in the Full cabinet decals?

Yep...backbox-2 , side decals -2, front decal - 1

#295 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Getting ready to install my CP overlay...hopefully later this week.
[quoted image]

Good luck....I would highly suggest using your NOS decal to mark and align the holes during install....

#301 1 year ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

Hi All You Slugfester's,
I finally received some new Topps Baseball Cards from 1990 and loaded up the hopper. This thing works great spits them out just like it is supposed to. I thought I had a line on the buttons however looks like MAD Amusements won't ship to Canada and Marco has no stock. Does anyone know an alternate supplier??

Can you buy off of eBay? Not sure if they ship to Canada or not, but its worth a try.

ebay.com link » Williams Slugfest Baseball Pinball Machine Oem Button Set Free Shipping New

#303 1 year ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

thanks for the tip but alas they do not ship to Canada -ugh

That blows...maybe if u have a buddy in the states have them buy and ship it to you?

2 weeks later
#328 1 year ago

Its a really simple game to inspect....to give u a data point (in California) I paid $1650 for my Slug Fest a few months ago. The game had all new LED's, new DMD, all the plastics were in great shape, and everything was working properly. That being said it needed a new control panel overlay (which I replaced), red trim was faded (I replaced), and the decals are pretty faded. It also needed to be shopped, which I did .....after fixing everything, I have about $2K into mine....great family game...

#336 1 year ago
Quoted from UWbadgers:

Thanks for such quick replies.
“Everything works well. Only needs a couple light bulbs in spots that I know of. I had it serviced in the past and have never had problems”
This is what the guy told me after asking about condition/service history he mentioned.
Are bulbs here “special” or easy to grab somewhere?
From what you say I can simply change these batteries, every year or sooner as a work around for leaking, at least for the time being?
Or can I find someone local (Madison, WI) that can do a battery change up as you mention that is that permanent style?

Nope most of the bulbs are 555's (I think Bob sent out detailed information on this topic) ....they may have a few 44's as well....just buy the external battery holder (its cheap)...I change my batteries twice a year...the game is pretty easy to work on, but some of the parts are not that easy to find.

#337 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Nope most of the bulbs are 555's (I think Bob sent out detailed information on this topic) ....they may have a few 44's as well....just buy the external battery holder (its cheap)...I change my batteries twice a year...the game is pretty easy to work on, but some of the parts are not that easy to find. So when you checking out the game take a close look at the mechanism to make sure theres no excess wear. On my game the bat assembly was completely worn, and the bat coil was sticking....luckily marco had the new bat arm, and the coil is standard.

#338 1 year ago

Also see if the guy has the card chute? mine was missing, and its impossible to find. Without it the cards fall right to the ground

#344 1 year ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

Hey Guys, How many of you need card chutes?? I have an original that I can copy and make up a few metal spares as the original. If we can get a rough count will whip some up in next week or two to satisfy demand.

I'm in for one....

#354 1 year ago
Quoted from NicoVolta:

Everyone loves Slugfest at the museum. Er, loved... until it stopped pitching.
Checked for stuck balls. Instead I found the pitching arm lying on the bottom of the cabinet, sheared off from the motor arm.
YER OUTTTT! Ugh. I suppose only a finite number of pitches before the motor shaft gives up the ghost...

hopefully u can find a replacement part? If not maybe u can have it welded back together....

#359 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I get to shop my first Slugfest for a friend....Is there a good guide or tutorial? One of the things I am doing is changing to a color dmd. Otherwise Ill just take it one step at time.

I shopped mine.....its pretty simple especially if you've ever shopped pinball machines.....having a manual helps

#363 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I dont even know how to get to the dmd I saw several panels with keys so im sure one will access it.

Its pretty simple, but definitely different that a standard pinball game. This is what I did to access the dmd and change it out to a color dmd.

1. remove the control panel at the front of the game.
2. remove the glass.
3. remove the two brackets on each side of the play field that hold the glass in front of the dmd. Be careful so the that doesn't slide out
4. Remove the blue plastic "Home Run" piece thats in front of the dmd. Its held on with two screws
5. You now have access to the dmd....I removed mine and installed the color dmd (which is great)...instructions for this install are on their website. Note their original instructions had u remove the entire head to replace the dmd. Using the steps above will save you a lot of time...

#364 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Its pretty simple, but definitely different than a standard pinball game. This is what I did to access the dmd and change it out to a color dmd.
1. remove the control panel at the front of the game.
2. remove the glass.
3. remove the two brackets on each side of the play field that hold the glass in front of the dmd. Be careful so the that doesn't slide out
4. Remove the blue plastic "Home Run" piece thats in front of the dmd. Its held on with two screws
5. You now have access to the dmd....I removed mine and installed the color dmd (which is great)...instructions for this install are on their website. Note their original instructions had u remove the entire head to replace the dmd. Using the steps above will save you a lot of time...

#367 1 year ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

Instructions were good. I think painting the CP prior to installing the decal and using the wet method worked great. I actually didn't have to trim a thing. It all worked out to size by the time you folded over the edges. Biggest thing was to get the decal perfectly straight. One thing I do notice is that I had a very small bump (not even a gap) between the metal and the wooden bullnose that I probably should have put a wee bit of putty in first. It does show up ever so slightly once the decal is on. Other than that was very straight forward.

I had the exact same issue with my overlay replacement. The lip between the aluminum and the bull nose on the panel was 1/8-1/16" so I ended up filling it with wood putty.....I think this is an issue all across the board because most of the overlays fail right at the point. It might not be an issue in a home environment?

#370 1 year ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Yeah, it seems all cp's have that issue. I have it on mine and my new PPS overlay that I installed last year is already cracking. Note to anyone replacing your cp overlay, fill in that gap!

In an ideal world they would have wrapped the aluminum around the bullnose area. The other challenge is getting the overlay to adhere to the wood bull nose. I don't know about others by my wood appeared to be particle board. After about a month the over lay has lifted in a few areas. Its probably not a big deal at home but I guarantee u thats why these always failed in this area.

#371 1 year ago

Just heard from Planetary pinball, and they received their SlugFest decals from their supplier...they should be on their site soon.

1 week later
#377 1 year ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

Hey Guys,
Just a quick update. I finally had time to get the card chute measured up and into a cad file. Will send for laser cutting this week and hope to form and spot weld next week< Should have something ready for end of the month. Will post some pics once complete for any that are interested.

Not sure the cost, but if its reasonable I'm definitely in for one

#379 1 year ago

perfect....I appreciate all your hard work !

1 month later
#408 11 months ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

Hey Guys,
Finally making headway with the card catchers- should have a bunch complete next week. Just need to bend up the 3/16" round bar that sticks out the front. tig them on and paint. as you can see we are almost there - I even had one of my guys do them up in cad and make prints and so if we need to make them again no worries
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thats awesome...have you figured out a price yet?

#417 11 months ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

Hey guys here is one mounted done in blue to match cabinet
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks awesome....

#418 11 months ago
Quoted from tamoore:

Fixing a faded cabinet with red sharpie. Quicker and cheaper than 250 dollar decals.....
[quoted image]

Looks nice...is it obvious u used a sharpie when u look close? U should use red on the baseball laces

#421 11 months ago

Looks nice....did it take a long time?

6 months later
#617 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffsgames:

New member! Just got this game, and after an RD MPU it works great! Now I have to restore it. Anyone have a bulb list for LEDs already figured out that they can share? I want to do LEDs next. Then I have to get new decals.
[quoted image]

contact these guys about potential new decals for slugfest https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/revised-rad-cals-for-many-more-wms-games .... he said that he's willing to make these at some point. The advantage of these rad cals is you can install them over the existing decals.....I suspect many would be interested (including myself)....

#620 5 months ago

Anybody have the Slug Fest cabinet dimensions handy? If so could you please share?

#622 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffsgames:

I have to admit those are pretty cool. I just watched his video on Facebook showing how they go on. Amazing!

I realize their a little more expensive, but their higher quality and look a lot better than the standard decals....in my mind not having to spend days installing these decals is worth far more than $150

#623 5 months ago
Quoted from jeffsgames:

So where can I get a CPO for this game? I saw Planetary Pinball is sold out right now, and they haven't emailed me back yet about when they will be in stock again. Marco's are about 3x the price so that ain't happening. I went with a lot of other parts from them, and their LED set but I can't pay $150 for a CPO. Anyone have any other sources?

Their hard to find...have u looked at eBay? The OP actually made up a few that turned out really nice...u may want to ask if he has any available? Also do you have the card chute? Mine was missing, and their hard to find. A guy up in Canada made a few replicas that turned out really nice (I have one)

1 month later
#646 4 months ago
Quoted from NintenBear:

Now a member. Picked one up with original topper and the card dispenser for $1500.00.

Awesome...hope it had the card chute....mine was missing, and it took a long time to find one...

#653 4 months ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

About the PPS control panel overlays...
I installed one on my Slugfest 2 years ago and it is already cracked and split all along the front, just like the original one was. Anyone else that got an official repro from them have a similar situation?

Yep....the problem is where the sheetmetal transitions onto the wood bullnose....mine is having the exact same problem (cracking right on top on the bullnose)..its the main reason most in the wild are completely jacked up....its a poor design....

#655 4 months ago
Quoted from jcar302:

Did you guys use wood filler or bondo on the wood/metal joint and sand it down? I believe that is necessary to prevent it from happening again.

I used wood filler, and it didn't work very well....I have no experience with bondo, but I bet it would work better?

#657 4 months ago
Quoted from jcar302:

Yeah, I did mine in bondo, seemed pretty solid to me.

its such a poor design.....so no cracking?

3 weeks later
#678 3 months ago
Quoted from JanS:

I think around $20.00 + shipping. What I did was peeled back and folded the rear edge of the decal the entire length about an inch and slowly lined it up with the edge. Then I pushed down on the vinyl from end to end slowly until I got to the front edge. The paper will pull away as you do this. I carefully pressed that edge down from end to end until it all laid down and the backing fell off.

How did you deal with the bull nose area? what are the dimensions of the CPO? I've seen some wrap around under the bull nose and others not. Many have reported cracking in this area due to the poor design.

2 weeks later
#697 76 days ago
Quoted from NintenBear:

Could someone PM the dimensions the art blades would need to be? I’m going to start working on a set.

Looking forward to seeing what u come up with

1 month later
#718 41 days ago

Does anyone have the cabinet dimensions Handy (Sides, Front, and backbox)?....Mirco stated he might make up some rad cals, which I think would look great on this game (plus u can install over the existing faded artwork thus saving a bunch of time).....my game is at the other house otherwise I'd do this myself...thanks

#721 39 days ago
Quoted from ibenaiah:

I'm new to this forum... apologies for not going through every post. I'm sure someone has asked this question before, but I'm looking for the card catcher. Does anyone know if these are still being produced, or where I can find one?
I will try to send pics of my game later.... I've had it for a few years. It's one-of-a-kind.

If you search this forum you'll find a guy that might make you a card chute....he made mine and it turned out great...basically their an exact replica of the original chute

#724 36 days ago
Quoted from daveinkazoo:

What kind of O rings are used on the card dispenser pinch roller?

Standard O rings u can buy at HD or Lowe's .. I got mine at HD

#727 36 days ago
Quoted from daveinkazoo:

Thanks for the reply you guys. So I would cut off the old material and put a bunch of O rings on the cylinder?[quoted image]

Mine used the ones posted in this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/slugfest-restoration#post-3295162

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 99.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Sales
From: $ 233.10
Machine - For Sale
Rochester, NY
$ 9.99
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 21.00
From: $ 130.20
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
$ 14.99
From: $ 9.99
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 28.00
From: $ 495.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
MI Pinball Refinery
$ 4.99
Playfield - Plastics

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ptownpin.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside