(Topic ID: 217006)

Slugfest Club - Back, back, back… Gone!

By MrSanRamon

1 year ago

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  • 745 posts
  • 77 Pinsiders participating
  • Topic is favorited by 35 Pinsiders


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#498 10 months ago

Just bought a SlugFest. My first pitch and bat. A friend has picked it up so I'll be getting it this weekend. Does anyone have a flyer source, spares or a scanner to send me front and back copies? The original not the special edition flyer that's on Ebay I'll let you know how things work out after I have it back home.

1 week later
#518 10 months ago

Just finishing up the Slugfest I bought last Friday. Could someone tell me where in the settings can you play a full game without pusing the start button after every inning? Thanks!

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#520 10 months ago

Set to 12 innings and none on setting 25. Still have to push start button after every inning?

#521 10 months ago

Ok I figured it out. You have to keep pushing the start button to the number of innings you want to play. Thanks!

#523 10 months ago

Tried it. No difference.

#525 10 months ago

Same here. Maybe Robert's SF is a 2 or 3?

#527 10 months ago

On another topic the spring for my bat isn't original from the looks of it but it works. I bought one from Marco that is huge and with it installed I barely get over the ramp. The ball just rolls up it and falls down the back side. Should't the spring be just like a return spring on a flipper assembly without any tension holing the power back? I put the old thinner, weaker spring back on.

#529 10 months ago

They sent 10-427. What is it for?

#532 10 months ago

Put in those adjustments and it gave me 6 innings not 9?

#534 10 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Here are the settings I have:
[quoted image]
I push the start button 1 time and the game plays 9 innings.

Ok I have it now. You put a 6 in a3.22 and it should be a 9 for 9 innings. Got it now. Thanks!

#539 10 months ago

I oiled all of the linkages and bushings on the bat assembly and it works much better. Do you have the proper return spring on it? Don't oil the coil plunger!

#543 10 months ago

When my ramp goes up it makes a sort of groaning sound. Is that normal?

#545 10 months ago

Gears are pretty well worn. That's what's grinding. I ordered a spare to have when this one goes. Figured I'd buy some spares while they are still out there to get.

2 weeks later
#553 9 months ago

Here's a question. The magnet on mine wasn't working. Fuse was good along with the drive transistors on the board. The small board under the playfield magnet transistor looked like it was a little cooked. Replaced it and the magnet still didn't work. Checked for continuity in the magnet coil and no beep. Pulled the wrapping off and there is a metal rectangular tube that the wires run through. I was thinking this was a fuse. The magnet looked good so I cut it out, spliced the wires together, checked for continuity which I now had and put a 2 1/2 amp slow blow fuse on that lead. The magnet works fine now and the fuse doesn't blow. I thought I'd see what's inside that tube and cut it open. It's a set of contacts. Could that possibly be like a thermal switch that breaks contact if the magnet coil ever locks on to prevent it from burning up? It was open so that's why the windings read open.

#554 9 months ago

Any new Slugfest ramps out there or plans of doing another run?

#556 9 months ago

No I'm talking about a complete replacement ramp assembly to have as a spare.

#558 9 months ago

I know that. I'm trying to find one.

1 week later
#570 8 months ago

I just measured voltage at the coil. Red wire to ground is 72.9 to 73.0 DC and I can hit home runs. Has anyone asked if the correct spring is installed on the assembly?

#572 8 months ago

Did you replace the coil when you re-built the assembly? Was there a new link and plunger assembly and coil stop installed? If the coil wasn't replaced did you install a new coil sleeve? If so did that sleeve have to be pressed in because the coil opening had become smaller?

#576 8 months ago

How about the bat position at rest. Where is the bat tip pointing in relation to a clock face? The manual pictures show it pointing to 4. Try pulling it off the shaft and pointing it to 6. See if this helps. If you manually swing the bat is there any binding or slop. Without lifting mine to look is there a nylon sleeve for the bat shaft like flipper assemblies have for the flipper bat shaft? If these do was it replaced?

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#580 8 months ago

Is the bat tip pointing to 6?

#582 8 months ago

Wonder if the new coil is defective or has less windings than it should? If you still have the old coil try it.

1 month later
#596 7 months ago

Why not just replace the bad opto and wire it back the way it's supposed to be. Plug the opto board back in and put it in switch test and see which one is bad. I'm assuming the original parts are all still there?

3 weeks later
#602 6 months ago

Ramp ball not going into the upper deck problem. I stumbled across this while working on my Slugfest. There are washers under the ramp motor assembly on mine because the cam will raise the ramp a bit without them. See if you have washers under the ramp bracket. If you do remove them and see if the ball will make it up into the bleachers.

2 months later
#660 4 months ago

The game instructions vinyl overlay on Slugfest. These don't appear to being reproduced. Would there be any interest in them? I'm going to make one for my Slugfest and could make more if anyone is interested? Let me know.

#664 4 months ago

I'll post a picture when it's finished. I'm not going to put the Williams name on it to avoid legal trouble. May do more spectators like box seats behind the plate. Probably $20.00 + shipping.

1 week later
#668 3 months ago

"I have an overlay left if anyone needs one".


PM sent

1 week later
#672 3 months ago
Quoted from JanS:

I'll post a picture when it's finished. I'm not going to put the Williams name on it to avoid legal trouble. May do more spectators like box seats behind the plate. Probably $20.00 + shipping.

Ok I got one back and installed it on my Slugfest. They aren't original looking but look good. These aren't made anywhere that I can see so if yours is beat up, missing it's a good replacement. The vinyl is micro punched so no bubbles when installing.

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#674 3 months ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

Looks Fantastic!! - did you get the plexi replaced as well? Mine has a big crack so in need of a new one. If you decide to offer up the stickers let me know.

Ok who all wants one??? I'll give it a week and get them made up. If you can find a piece of white plxi you can make one in your oven. You just need sdomething that it can bend over as it heats up and softens

#677 3 months ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

i will take 2 - just in case - you know - I F it up putting it on lol do you have a cost on them?

I think around $20.00 + shipping. What I did was peeled back and folded the rear edge of the decal the entire length about an inch and slowly lined it up with the edge. Then I pushed down on the vinyl from end to end slowly until I got to the front edge. The paper will pull away as you do this. I carefully pressed that edge down from end to end until it all laid down and the backing fell off.

#679 3 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

How did you deal with the bull nose area? what are the dimensions of the CPO? I've seen some wrap around under the bull nose and others not. Many have reported cracking in this area due to the poor design.

read my previous post about installation. Same size as original.

#681 3 months ago

Ok I'm going to make up 12 of them to start. Those of you that want them PM me with your requests, quantity's and Paypal information. I will send you a Paypal money request when they are ready to go. Thanks!

4 weeks later
#701 69 days ago

Did a modification on my Slugfest. Made a control panel like the original pitch and bats had. No more worries with the crack of death on the rounded edge.

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#706 68 days ago

I had some 1/2 inch cabinet grade plywood laying around so I used it and cut it to the correct width and shape. I used the original to line up the hole positions on the back side. Then I cut a channel for the T molding. Bought a piece of Lexan and used the new control panel as the guide to cut it using a laminate bit in the router. I cut the lexan about a 1/2 inch over sized on all sides before trimming it with the router. Then using a hole saw I drilled through the back side 1/2 way so that just the drill bit punched through the Lexan. Then on the topside I used that hole as the guide to drill out each hole completely. Then I applied the overlay, trimmed it to size and cut out the holes for the buttons. Then I put the Lexan on the control panel installed the buttons and T molding using 2 small nails at the ends of the corners.. Probably about 4 hours total.

#707 68 days ago

PS I'll be selling CPO's made of vinyl that lays down with no bubbles and has a protective clear mylar top. Since they are not polycarbonate they will not crack like the originals do. The picture above of the CPO is the first sample that they made for me. I will also have the vinyl pitch and bat instructions decals too. They aren't like the originals because of the Williams trademark. They are the same bubble free vinyl. Probably $20.00 for it and $50.00 for the CPU or $60.00 for both + shipping. Here's the sample P & B instructions on mine.
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