A discussion about the CP overlays:
The CP overlay on my machine was apparently replaced once and the replacement was trimmed and the metal piece (the glass goes under) and the edge of the bull-nose.
When I generated instructions for the install of a new CP overlay, that is the procedure I gave.
PTownPin (Pat) just replaced the CP on his machine (with one that is supposedly new old stock (NOS), as it had never been replaced previously. I asked him for a critique of my instructions and this is what I found out.
The original CP was wrapped around both the bull-nose end and under the metal piece and stapled, presumably to help with the adhesion/longevity of the overlay.
I made replacement overlays, using one of the last overlays available from PPS as an exact template.
According to Pat, who has both my remake and a NOS CP version, they are not really wide enough to wrap around the bull-nose end and under the metal piece and be stapled...at least not easily.
When I replace my Overlay, I'm probably going to trim both edges and not try to wrap and staple. But I thought I'd let others know what is up. Apparently, any CP overlays that are available, including the ones I made, are not exactly to original width specs...and there is no drawing in-which to go from.
To be clear about my remakes: original overlay thickness 0.015 inch thick with holes for switches punched. My overlay thickness is 0.010 thick because you need to cut the switch holes after installation. After taking to Pat, perhaps the thinner overlays I made would be easier to wrap and staple, but currently I have no first hand info.
If I remake any more of these, I will increase the width of the overlay by 1-inch, 0.5 inches per side. This should help with the wraping and stapling, though I believe that there is enough material with my remakes to install the overlay as was done at the factory.
I think I still will trim both edges of my overlay, instead of doing the wrapping and stapling. Pat said he had trouble with the NOS one he installed, when he tried to staple. Perhaps he will chime in with some first hand info for us.
Additionally, I have queried a few people about the process to get the existing CP overlay off. The consensus this is not an easy task:
1. Heat to soften the glue enough to be able to pull the overlay up in pieces.
2. After the overlay is pulled off, use a razor blade to get as much glue off as you can
3. After razor blade scraping, use lots of Goo-Gone on the remaining glue. Then wiping off as much glue as possible, use a scraper or a drill motor with a steel wool attachment to get the remaining glue off
Maybe Pat or some others will give us some info on how they did it.