(Topic ID: 217006)

Slugfest Club - Back, back, back… Gone!

By MrSanRamon

3 years ago


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There are 1229 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 25.
#201 3 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I set mine to 5 innings

I normally ring up 3 inning's and will add more if need be. If its close or if we are just having a blast, we will add a few more. Its not uncommon for us to end up playing a full 9. but I have found that 3 is a good place to start.

#202 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I also changed out the speakers per Bob's recommendation and what a difference

Did you have to do much to the adapters I made to install the speakers?

Robert

#203 3 years ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Do you have a link to those speakers?

If you want a more full range rather than a woofer: p/n 55-5690 (Newark)

It's 6.5" and $7.02 each.

I haven't used it in a slugfest, but I am going to use it in a game I am building.

Robert

#204 3 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Did you have to do much to the adapters I made to install the speakers?
Robert

I had to trim one of the adapters, but for the most part they fit perfectly....thanks again

#205 3 years ago

I just put these bad boys on slugfest today. Pingulps from pinball life, and decals off etsy. Thinking about putting led strips in cup holders to make em pop.

20180729_200050 (resized).jpg20180729_200059 (resized).jpg
#206 3 years ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

I just put these bad boys on slugfest today. Pingulps from pinball life, and decals off etsy. Thinking about putting led strips in cup holders to make em pop.
[quoted image][quoted image]

They look great....I'm looking forward to installing the color dmd tomorrow

#207 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

They look great....I'm looking forward to installing the color dmd tomorrow

It's definitely the most "involved" install for a ColorDMD - but not hard. Just takes longer than a typical pin by flipping down the speaker panel - since you have to take most of the head apart to get to the DMD.
There will be some step-by-step instructions on the the ColorDMD site soon.
Take the card off the LED panel and screw it to the board where the DMD wires come through.

*While you have the head apart - it's a good opportunity to swap bulbs for LEDs
Send me a note if you run into anything while putting the ColorDMD in.

#208 3 years ago
Quoted from MadMaxDad:

It's definitely the most "involved" install for a ColorDMD - but not hard. Just takes longer than a typical pin by flipping down the speaker panel - since you have to take most of the head apart to get to the DMD.
There will be some step-by-step instructions on the the ColorDMD site soon.
Take the card off the LED panel and screw it to the board where the DMD wires come through.
*While you have the head apart - it's a good opportunity to swap bulbs for LEDs
Send me a note if you run into anything while putting the ColorDMD in.

Thanks for the insight. Sounds like you've already done this? mine shows up tomorrow and will start the process although not sure the instructions (or the firmware) will be on colordmd's site ?

#209 3 years ago

The ROM will be up there soon - I'd guess this week.
Yes - I installed my LED ColorDMD about a year ago

#210 3 years ago
Quoted from MadMaxDad:

The ROM will be up there soon - I'd guess this week.
Yes - I installed my LED ColorDMD about a year ago

Are you running color on your dmd yet?

#211 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Sounds like you've already done this?

Quoted from MadMaxDad:

Yes - I installed my LED ColorDMD about a year ago

Quoted from PtownPin:

Are you running color on your dmd yet?

In case you can't read between the lines, he's the guy who colored it.

I also sold him the Slugfest that started all this.

#212 3 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

In case you can't read between the lines, he's the guy who colored it.
I also sold him the Slugfest that started all this.

Two heroes in this thread right here

#213 3 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

In case you can't read between the lines, he's the guy who colored it.
I also sold him the Slugfest that started all this.

I figured that was the case...nice work getting him motivated to color this great game. My color dmd arrived today, but unfortunately no ROM available yet...

#214 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

unfortunately no ROM available yet...

sometime Friday!! At leas that gives you some time to install the display. For me, I have to repair some boards to get my project working before I'll be able to even think about getting a ColorDMD.

#215 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

sometime Friday!! At leas that gives you some time to install the display. For me, I have to repair some boards to get my project working before I'll be able to even think about getting a ColorDMD.

Its easier to just do it all at the same time....hopefully it gets released soon

#216 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

hopefully it gets released soon

As per the announcement, It will be released by Friday 8/3. That could mean late afternoon even.

#217 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I figured that was the case...nice work getting him motivated to color this great game. My color dmd arrived today, but unfortunately no ROM available yet...

Once you get yours installed can you please post some pics and instructions for those of us that want to do the same thing?? Would be greatly appreciated so we don't fry anything fumbling around getting it done.

#218 3 years ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

Once you get yours installed can you please post some pics and instructions for those of us that want to do the same thing?? Would be greatly appreciated so we don't fry anything fumbling around getting it done.

Step-by-Step instructions with lots of photos will be on the ColorDMD site soon!

The hardest part is gaining access to the current DMD - have to take the top part of the cabinet off and the plastic cover over the DMD.
There's not enough room between the plastic cover (the piece with the baseball cards to the left/right of the DMD) and the backboard to leave the circuit board on the back of the LED display. The circuit board gets mounted on the other side of the backboard with 4 screws. The wires feed through the same hole as the existing DMD.
None of it is hard - just a lot of steps.

#220 3 years ago

Any video yet of the color dmd?

#221 3 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Any video yet of the color dmd?

I can't speak for ColorDMD, but I'd think very soon. Glad to see the anticipation to see color for this title

#223 3 years ago

Yesterday there was no software available. Got my display. I will say that they need to include a longer ribbon cable. You have to mount the control board inside the game. Behind where the display sits. The rippon does not reach to mount the board completely.
I got it as close as I can to the hole the cables come thru.
Magicchiz

#224 3 years ago
Quoted from Magicchiz:

Yesterday there was no software available. Got my display. I will say that they need to include a longer ribbon cable. You have to mount the control board inside the game. Behind where the display sits. The rippon does not reach to mount the board completely.
I got it as close as I can to the hole the cables come thru.
Magicchiz

Check out the location I mounted mine (in the install.pdf at ColorDMD) - it's tight for sure, but reaches and will work.
Thanks for putting a ColorDMD in your machine

Screen Shot 2018-08-01 at 4.06.29 PM (resized).png
#225 3 years ago
Quoted from Magicchiz:

Yesterday there was no software available.

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

As per the announcement, It will be released by Friday 8/3. That could mean late afternoon even.

#226 3 years ago

I just installed the colordmd into my Slugfest. The only caveat to the instructions provided is that I DID NOT have to remove the head in order to get access to the dmd. I removed the glass from the bottom by removing the 4 screws holding the bracket. The install was a bit of a pain in the rear compared to standard pinball games, but overall not too bad. Now just waiting on the firmware.

#227 3 years ago

Quick question: on all the other colordmd products Ive installed there is always a ground wire connected directly to the dmd. In slugfest there is no place to connect a ground wire....is that an issue?

#228 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Quick question: on all the other colordmd products Ive installed there is always a ground wire connected directly to the dmd. In slugfest there is no place to connect a ground wire....is that an issue?

If there is a ground wire on the colordmd you could probably run a ground wire to one of the speakers.

Robert

#229 3 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

If there is a ground wire on the colordmd you could probably run a ground wire to one of the speakers.
Robert

As you know normally you mount the ColorDmd to existing mounts on the panel, which allows you to place a ground wire on one of the posts. When you install the colorDMD on a slugfest there are no mounting posts. You basically mount the panel to the existing plastic stand offs. I could always run a ground wire to the edge of the panel, but wondering if its necessary.

#230 3 years ago

https://www.colordmd.com/support_firmware_chroma.html2018-08-03 12_17_00-Facebook - Internet Explorer (resized).png

#231 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

As you know normally you mount the ColorDmd to existing mounts on the panel, which allows you to place a ground wire on one of the posts. When you install the colorDMD on a slugfest there are no mounting posts. You basically mount the panel to the existing plastic stand offs. I could always run a ground wire to the edge of the panel, but wondering if its necessary.

The ground wire does not affect the functionality of the ColorDMD. The controller board and LED modules are electrically isolated from the metal mounting bracket. The reason to use a ground wire on the metal bracket is to guard against an electric shock in the unlikely event that a live wire comes into contact with the bracket and at the same time a person is in contact with the bracket.

A ground wire is recommended for this reason. If it's possible to connect the included ground wire please let me know at [email protected] and we'll update the installation instructions.

#232 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I could always run a ground wire to the edge of the panel, but wondering if its necessary

I'd personally run a ground to an existing ground somewhere...keeps you from being zapped if the high voltage if the panel becomes hot.

Robert

#233 3 years ago

Just installed the colorDmd....it looks great...

#234 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Just installed the colorDmd....it looks great...

Would love to see a video of it in a game if you have a chance. I didn't own a slugfest for long but would have liked to have played it with a ColorDMD in it. One game that has enough stop and go action that you can actually appreciate more of the animations on it.

#235 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I just installed the colordmd into my Slugfest. The only caveat to the instructions provided is that I DID NOT have to remove the head in order to get access to the dmd. I removed the glass from the bottom by removing the 4 screws holding the bracket. T

Thanks for the update on installation - I haven't put mine back together yet. Once it is, I'll do it your way and update the install.pdf to save people a lot of work. Thanks again for sharing !

#236 3 years ago

Too those people that are planning to replace their CP Overlays. I'm working with PTownPin to generate instructions.

I generated some, but haven't actually replaced mine yet, and of course they need updating!

Robert

#237 3 years ago

A discussion about the CP overlays:

The CP overlay on my machine was apparently replaced once and the replacement was trimmed and the metal piece (the glass goes under) and the edge of the bull-nose.

When I generated instructions for the install of a new CP overlay, that is the procedure I gave.

PTownPin (Pat) just replaced the CP on his machine (with one that is supposedly new old stock (NOS), as it had never been replaced previously. I asked him for a critique of my instructions and this is what I found out.

The original CP was wrapped around both the bull-nose end and under the metal piece and stapled, presumably to help with the adhesion/longevity of the overlay.

I made replacement overlays, using one of the last overlays available from PPS as an exact template.

According to Pat, who has both my remake and a NOS CP version, they are not really wide enough to wrap around the bull-nose end and under the metal piece and be stapled...at least not easily.

When I replace my Overlay, I'm probably going to trim both edges and not try to wrap and staple. But I thought I'd let others know what is up. Apparently, any CP overlays that are available, including the ones I made, are not exactly to original width specs...and there is no drawing in-which to go from.

To be clear about my remakes: original overlay thickness 0.015 inch thick with holes for switches punched. My overlay thickness is 0.010 thick because you need to cut the switch holes after installation. After taking to Pat, perhaps the thinner overlays I made would be easier to wrap and staple, but currently I have no first hand info.

If I remake any more of these, I will increase the width of the overlay by 1-inch, 0.5 inches per side. This should help with the wraping and stapling, though I believe that there is enough material with my remakes to install the overlay as was done at the factory.

I think I still will trim both edges of my overlay, instead of doing the wrapping and stapling. Pat said he had trouble with the NOS one he installed, when he tried to staple. Perhaps he will chime in with some first hand info for us.

Additionally, I have queried a few people about the process to get the existing CP overlay off. The consensus this is not an easy task:

1. Heat to soften the glue enough to be able to pull the overlay up in pieces.
2. After the overlay is pulled off, use a razor blade to get as much glue off as you can
3. After razor blade scraping, use lots of Goo-Gone on the remaining glue. Then wiping off as much glue as possible, use a scraper or a drill motor with a steel wool attachment to get the remaining glue off

Maybe Pat or some others will give us some info on how they did it.

Robert

#238 3 years ago

In response to Bob above here's the procedure I went through:

1. I removed the staples on the overlay. Mine was stapled on both ends (there was at least 20 staples)
2. One I removed the staples I was able to peel back the existing overlay. In my experience the overlay did not stick very well to the bullnose part of the control panel. That being said when I peeled it back some of the wood came along with it.
3. I didn't bother using a heat gun to remove the overlay. I just used a spatula and scrapper. The overlay eventually game off (in pieces)
4. The next step is the most challenging. I just used goo gone and a scrapper to get off most of the old glue. There was very little glue residue on the bullnose portion of the panel.
5. Once I got most of the glue off I then use an orbital sander to remove the balance and smooth out the bullnose portion of the panel.
6. After seeing many panels fail in seemingly the same location I quickly discovered why. On my CPO there is an aluminum panel on the flat portion of the panel that transitions to a wood bullnose. At the transition point there is a .125" gap, which I believe is the reason why it always fails at the point.
7. I then used wood putty to repair the bullnose portion and attempt to smooth out the .125" gap. After drying I sanded down the area smooth thus eliminating the gap.
8. I then completed final cleaning of the panel in order to prep for the new overlay
9. I peeled off the new overlay, and used the wet method to apply to the panel. You need to be careful and make sure you place the overlay over the switch holes. Note that they don't align perfectly. What I did was get it close, and then installed a few switches to make sure it aligned properly. This won't be as much of an issue for Bob's since his doesn't have pre drilled holes.
10. The next step is where it got challenging for me. On the old overlay the panel was overlapped under the bullnose about .75" and then stapled. The new overlay had about a 1/2" to work with so pulling the overlay tight, and then stapling was a challenge.
11. I then moved to the top of the panel, and repeated the same process. What made this challenging was the new panel was at least an inch shorter (in width) so I stapled to the edge. The problem is it created too much tension, and would pull the panel up from the flat portion of the panel. I would trim the overlay the top edge of the aluminum panel and call it good.
12. I then let mine dry overnight and then installed the switch harness, and front molding.

I agree with Bob's procedure with a couple caveats. I believe its important to fill the gap between the aluminum panel and the bullnose. I would also wrap the new panel around the bullnose and staple as Im not convinced it will hold up in the long run (I could be wrong). On the top end I would just trim at the edge

#239 3 years ago

I was able to get all the residue of my old CP with goo gone and a metal Paint scrapper, they I think the sound of using a razor blade would be the way to go. I didn't use heat to remove and I installed it dry. The CP I bought from PPS fit perfectly and wrapped around both sides to hold staples. It looked amazing. I contemplated filling the gap, but ultimately left it alone.

#240 3 years ago

Hey Slugfest owners- has anyone ever had to fix any of the home run when lit markers? I have one that is not functioning correctly when you hit a home run. It does blink when in attract mode just doesn't activate flasher when hitting home run. Is this a possible board issue maybe?

#241 3 years ago

hey guys- disregard last post- had changed all the bulbs to LED's and looks like I had a bad bulb out of the bag- up and running now

#242 3 years ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

hey guys- disregard last post- had changed all the bulbs to LED's and looks like I had a bad bulb out of the bag- up and running now

Happy u got it all figured out....I'm sure your aware of this, but in my experience when an LED doesn't work the first time I can typically remove the bulb and do one of two things to get it to work (99% of the time). The first is to gently bend the wires to the outside so theres guaranteed contact. The second is to swap the bulb 180 degrees....its pretty rare that a new LED is bad, but I guess it happens...

#243 3 years ago

A video of my color DMD...

I'll try to add a bit more after I finish putting the machine back together

Robert

#244 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

In response to Bob above here's the procedure I went through:

Thanks Pat!

Robert

#245 3 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

A video of my color DMD...

I'll try to add a bit more after I finish putting the machine back together
Robert

Looks great Bob....happy to see your display snapped right into the stand offs. I had to use zip ties to secure mine

I love the color dmd....

#246 3 years ago

It wasn't that straight forward for me to get the colordmd installed, and the instructions weren't that great.

I decided to drill a hole in the panel the DMD is attached to so I could get both the power cable and the ribbon cable to the backside of that panel. The way the DMD is attached the wires would be next to impossible (on my machine) to get them to the backside.

IMG_20180804_140947 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180804_191750 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180804_142509 (resized).jpg

I also struggled a bit with the attachment of the DMD to the panel, so I pulled out the 2 plastic posts in the center on the back panel and put 2 long screws through the DMD and through the back panel (where the plastic posts were) and put a washer and nut on the backside. I tightened the screws just a bit more than finger tight to not bend the DMD. I didn't use lock nuts, but I did double nut the screw to keep the nut from backing off.

IMG_20180804_142451 (resized).jpg

A pic of how I attached the DMD circuit board to the backside of the panel.

IMG_20180805_091727 (resized).jpg

Robert

#247 3 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

It wasn't that straight forward for me to get the colordmd installed, and the instructions weren't that great.
I decided to drill a hole in the panel the DMD is attached to so I could get both the power cable and the ribbon cable to the backside of that panel. The way the DMD is attached the wires would be next to impossible (on my machine) to get them to the backside.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I also struggled a bit with the attachment of the DMD to the panel, so I pulled out the 2 plastic posts in the center on the back panel and put 2 long screws through the DMD and through the back panel (where the plastic posts were) and put a washer and nut on the backside. I tightened the screws just a bit more than finger tight to not bend the DMD. I didn't use lock nuts, but I did double nut the screw to keep the nut from backing off.
[quoted image]
A pic of how I attached the DMD circuit board to the backside of the panel.
[quoted image]
Robert

wow yours was a bit of a pain in the ass. On mine the plastic posts were shot (probably by me when I removed the old DMD) so I used tie straps to secure (I fed them through the existing slots on the plastic post, and then through the holes on the dmd). I mounted my board in roughly the same location, but my cables were long enough to fit through the existing hole (barely)

#248 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

so I used tie straps to secure (I fed them through the existing slots on the plastic post, and then through the holes on the dmd)

The screw idea is good, I use the other 4 posts as guides to get the DMD aligned, but the since the screws are in the center of the DMD, I have a bit of an alignment issue. The DMD isn't perfectly horizontal, or when I make it perfectly horizontal it eventually drops a bit on one end.

I have a couple of ideas to correct the sagging, and will post my solution when I get it done.

All in all, it's really not an easy task to add a colordmd to Slugfest.

Robert

#249 3 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

A video of my color DMD...

Thank you for the video. You already started drinking this morning? J/K

#250 3 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

The screw idea is good, I use the other 4 posts as guides to get the DMD aligned, but the since the screws are in the center of the DMD, I have a bit of an alignment issue. The DMD isn't perfectly horizontal, or when I make it perfectly horizontal it eventually drops a bit on one end.
I have a couple of ideas to correct the sagging, and will post my solution when I get it done.
All in all, it's really not an easy task to add a colordmd to Slugfest.
Robert

Mine aligned perfectly using the existing plastic posts..when I cinched down on the small tie straps it secured the dmd in place...its not going anywhere...just a thought if u want to change course?

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