(Topic ID: 217006)

Slugfest Club - Back, back, back… Gone!


By MrSanRamon

1 year ago



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There are 793 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 16.
#751 50 days ago

I'm in. 788 miles round trip and I have one. Batter up.

#752 49 days ago

Still looking for a CPO

#753 49 days ago

CPO?? ControlPanelOverlay (must be an arcade guy term)

#754 49 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Still looking for a CPO

Same boat.

#755 48 days ago
Quoted from ericthehalfb:

Takes long time for ball to recycle after pitch is completed

This could be a problem with the trough optos. If they do not sense the ball draining you might have to wait for a game timeout to pitch again. I had a problem with a long wait to pitch. Turned out a light bulb fell into the trough and was jamming up the ball return.

#756 48 days ago

I'm thinking of putting up my Slugfest for sale since I need room. Not sure on price but works great.

For those Slugfest experts out there what is a fair asking price with parts shown below?

I was going to restore but never found the time. It has new legs and glass. Cab is faded.
Also have parts that will go with it including:
Decals
NOS playfield
Card chute
NOS topper - installed
Panel overlay
NOS manual
Maybe some other parts I'm forgetting!

Card dispenser is present but I have not attempted to get it working and has been unplugged.

Display is great. No error dot.

Game is located in San Diego and I can't ship and must be picked up. Parts will NOT be sold separately and will be sold along with game.

#757 47 days ago
Quoted from ericthehalfb:

Need some help.... Having some issues with my Slugfest. During game play only, Pitching game buttons on the panel are working sporadically. Works fine in test. When trying to pitch the ball using same button repeatedly, button stops working. Also, game appears to be in delay mode. Takes long time for ball to recycle after pitch is completed. I swapped out the CPU board and ROM and still same issues. Connectors and switches are good and appear to have no issue in test. I am baffled and could use some help and advise. Appreciate any and all feedback.

How many balls in your game? If a ball is not ready (in position) it won’t pitch.

#758 46 days ago
Quoted from JohnnyArcade:

How many balls in your game? If a ball is not ready (in position) it won’t pitch.

How many balls are suppose to be in it?

#759 46 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

How many balls are suppose to be in it?

I believe its 5 or 6

#760 46 days ago

I know I have an extra CPO that I have no problem selling. What is the going rate for one of these since they seem to be unattainable?

#761 46 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

How many balls are suppose to be in it?

7.

#762 46 days ago
Quoted from marspinball:

I'm thinking of putting up my Slugfest for sale since I need room. Not sure on price but works great.

For those Slugfest experts out there what is a fair asking price with parts shown below?

I was going to restore but never found the time. It has new legs and glass. Cab is faded.
Also have parts that will go with it including:
Decals
NOS playfield
Card chute
NOS topper - installed
Panel overlay
NOS manual
Maybe some other parts I'm forgetting!

I just sold mine for $1,950 but I did all the restoration and the cabinet was near perfect.The faded Cab is a deal breaker for many collectors though. Even with the decals thrown in you would do better installing all the upgrades yourself. As a DIY projec,t $1,500??

#763 46 days ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

I just sold mine for $1,950 but I did all the restoration and the cabinet was near perfect.The faded Cab is a deal breaker for many collectors though. Even with the decals thrown in you would do better installing all the upgrades yourself. As a DIY projec,t $1,500??

He is probably better off parting out the restore parts and selling the game as is.

#764 42 days ago

1. I have issues with certain pitches. The fastball screwball and curve all work. When a change up is selected the pitch buttons turn off as if accepted and the Mech makes the same noise but no ball comes out. Is there some adjusting in the pitch Mech that could need tweaking to allow the pitch to come?

#765 42 days ago
Quoted from meatjohnson:

When a change up is selected the pitch buttons turn off as if accepted and the Mech makes the same noise but no ball comes out.

There is a section in the manual about that. See the manual for the diagram.

The ball should not be launched into the air during a fast pitch. This is adjustable by the top of the pitch unit. Carefully lift both of the pitch "spring steel" covers (WARNING, the edges are extremely sharp), and bend the metal deflector tab downward. But, do not lower it too much so that it prevents a ball from traveling through the guide. The smaller of the 2 "spring steel" guides should also be firmly pressing down on the ball guide to prevent the ball from lifting. When this adjustment is done, re-check the slow pitch and make sure that the ball is still being pitched. If the ball is not being pitched, release some tension on the smaller spring steel guide.

Also:

Try test 1 - switch test. You can confirm your buttons are working reliably to start with.

You can try test 13 - pitch test and what results you get there.

You can see in the manual, they label different solenoids for each pitch (solenoid table). That just means different transistors/wiring take care of the 3 speeds of pitches going to the motor. The motor regulator board connects to the motor with 3 different resistors for each pitch. When the transistor turns on with a larger resistor it runs slower and transistor connected to the smaller resistor makes it run faster. If the cable (J126) going from the driver board to the motor regulator board had a bad connection, some pitches might not work.

22 Fast Pitch Blu-Bik Vio-Orn J126-7 Q30
23 Medium Pitch Blu-Vio Vio-Orn J126-8 Q34
24 Slow Pitch Blu-Gry Vio-Orn J126-9 Q32

#766 37 days ago

Going to start a complete restoration on a Slugfest . I’ve been s huge fan for years. Thinking of blue T mold, blue powder coat on legs and all stainless trim

Has anyone seen mirror blades or side art ??? I have 2 of these now happy to
Pay someone to do these !

Thanks, hit me up with any ideas

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#767 37 days ago
Quoted from whitey:

Going to start a complete restoration on a Slugfest . I’ve been s huge fan for years. Thinking of blue T mold, blue powder coat on legs and all stainless trim
Has anyone seen mirror blades or side art ??? I have 2 of these now happy to
Pay someone to do these !
Thanks, hit me up with any ideas[quoted image]

Been throwing around doing the same thing....one thing to consider is the control panel is poorly designed. The problem is the bullnose section. I actually talked to Cliffy a couple weeks ago about making me a metal piece i can use on the bullnose. This would eliminate failures on the CPO. I really like the stainless look on the game, red trim, color dmd...I was hoping they would make RadCALS for SlugFest

#768 37 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

How many balls are suppose to be in it?

Page 1-6 of the manual tells you.

1 week later
#769 28 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

There is a section in the manual about that. See the manual for the diagram.
The ball should not be launched into the air during a fast pitch. This is adjustable by the top of the pitch unit. Carefully lift both of the pitch "spring steel" covers (WARNING, the edges are extremely sharp), and bend the metal deflector tab downward. But, do not lower it too much so that it prevents a ball from traveling through the guide. The smaller of the 2 "spring steel" guides should also be firmly pressing down on the ball guide to prevent the ball from lifting. When this adjustment is done, re-check the slow pitch and make sure that the ball is still being pitched. If the ball is not being pitched, release some tension on the smaller spring steel guide.
Also:
Try test 1 - switch test. You can confirm your buttons are working reliably to start with.
You can try test 13 - pitch test and what results you get there.
You can see in the manual, they label different solenoids for each pitch (solenoid table). That just means different transistors/wiring take care of the 3 speeds of pitches going to the motor. The motor regulator board connects to the motor with 3 different resistors for each pitch. When the transistor turns on with a larger resistor it runs slower and transistor connected to the smaller resistor makes it run faster. If the cable (J126) going from the driver board to the motor regulator board had a bad connection, some pitches might not work.
22 Fast Pitch Blu-Bik Vio-Orn J126-7 Q30
23 Medium Pitch Blu-Vio Vio-Orn J126-8 Q34
24 Slow Pitch Blu-Gry Vio-Orn J126-9 Q32

So pitch test says slow pitch error. Everything else tested out ok.

#770 25 days ago
Quoted from whitey:

Going to start a complete restoration on a Slugfest . I’ve been s huge fan for years. Thinking of blue T mold, blue powder coat on legs and all stainless trim
Has anyone seen mirror blades or side art ??? I have 2 of these now happy to
Pay someone to do these !
Thanks, hit me up with any ideas[quoted image]

I’ve been thinking of white trim, legs and t molding, to give that baseball pinstripe feel, wander if red stitching on the legs is possible

#771 25 days ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I’ve been thinking of white trim, legs and t molding, to give that baseball pinstripe feel, wander if red stitching on the legs is possible

I put new red T molding and painted the legs up with Blue card chute. Looks better IMO than the old steel legs that were on it when i got it.

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#772 25 days ago

Does anyone else have a odd shaped card catcher?

Just got a normal one for mi e and it doesnt line up at all.

I have no problem attaching it just found it strange that my original was so much smaller.

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#773 25 days ago

Has anyone installed new decals on their SlugFest recently? Was hoping for the SlugFest RadCals, but that seems unlikely. Wondering if anyone has purchased decals from Planetary pinball?

#774 25 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Does anyone else have a odd shaped card catcher?
Just got a normal one for mi e and it doesnt line up at all.
I have no problem attaching it just found it strange that my original was so much smaller.[quoted image][quoted image]

Someone on this thread made some up a little while ago. If you dig in this thread you can find it.

#775 25 days ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

Someone on this thread made some up a little while ago. If you dig in this thread you can find it.

Ya he made mine. My card catcher is the right size but the mounting holes and outline on the bottom of my cab are different so my game had a different sized catcher from the factory I just dont know what it would have looked like as it was missing when I got my game.

#776 20 days ago

Still trying to resolve the issue of the ball not going into the stands off of the home run ramp. Could someone post a pic of where they installed the washers as I'm not quite clear on the recommended fix? I see that the previous owner applied the electrical tape fix on the holes in the cam. I've tried raising and lower the rear legs and have had the machine at around a 5 degree angle and up towards a 7 degree angle...no luck either way. The bat mech seems to have plenty of power and very solidly hits the ball so I'm not convinced it's an issue with the bat.

Thanks!

#777 19 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Still trying to resolve the issue of the ball not going into the stands off of the home run ramp.

I had this issue and fixed it with a new cam from Marco. I finally figured out that although the lift cam looked good it was ever so slightly worn down. I replaced the cam and the problem of balls not making it went away. I still have a problem of butter-fingered fans in the bleachers failing to catch the ball and it bounces back.

#778 19 days ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

I had this issue and fixed it with a new cam from Marco. I finally figured out that although the lift cam looked good it was ever so slightly worn down. I replaced the cam and the problem of balls not making it went away. I still have a problem of butter-fingered fans in the bleachers failing to catch the ball and it bounces back.

Good intel .... I have the same issue as well....I think the plastic netting is a bit too firm as it bounces off sometimes

#779 19 days ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

I had this issue and fixed it with a new cam from Marco. I finally figured out that although the lift cam looked good it was ever so slightly worn down. I replaced the cam and the problem of balls not making it went away. I still have a problem of butter-fingered fans in the bleachers failing to catch the ball and it bounces back.

Gotcha, I'll order one and replace the cam. Appreciate the response

#780 19 days ago

Has anyone replaced the T Molding? If so, any special tools required? Do you just remove the old and pop the new in or is glue involved? I've never dealt with T Molding but saw that Marco sells it for cheap and figured I'd refresh the cosmetics on my Slugfest a bit so long as the process isn't bad.

#781 19 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Has anyone replaced the T Molding? If so, any special tools required? Do you just remove the old and pop the new in or is glue involved? I've never dealt with T Molding but saw that Marco sells it for cheap and figured I'd refresh the cosmetics on my Slugfest a bit so long as the process isn't bad.

You don't need anything special to do it i recomend a sharp razor blade and something soft to tap the new tmold in like a rubber mallot. But it doesnt take much effort to put it in. I think i bought 15' when i replaced mine which will give you some extra to spare. I also cut the tmolding around the cab protecter did not like the way it sat under it.

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#782 19 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Still trying to resolve the issue of the ball not going into the stands off of the home run ramp. Could someone post a pic of where they installed the washers as I'm not quite clear on the recommended fix?

Again - the ramp has a flap that attaches under the playfield. The washers go between the flap and the underside of the playfield.

This pulls the ramp tighter against the cam, and forces the ramp to go up steeper when raised.

#783 19 days ago

I've been having the ball not clearing the fence issue too. I just tried a few wraps of gorilla tape around the spindle on the underside of the ramp the cam pushes on. I figured is the cam had worn down a bit, a tape wrap would do the trick. The ramp now doesn't sit flush with the play field, but the ball still hits the wall.

#784 14 days ago

Looking to possibly add a Slugfest to my collection for my son - if anyone has one available in the Mid-Atlantic area please let me know! Thx.

1 week later
#785 7 days ago
Quoted from AntennaMan:

I've been having the ball not clearing the fence issue too. I just tried a few wraps of gorilla tape around the spindle on the underside of the ramp the cam pushes on. I figured is the cam had worn down a bit, a tape wrap would do the trick. The ramp now doesn't sit flush with the play field, but the ball still hits the wall.

Curious if you found a solution?

For those that have applied the electrical tape fix to the cam, how much of each slot did you block with the tape? I'm having a bitch of a time trying to solve this damn ramp issue. I applied the washers fix to the ramp flap but it's not enough. I guess I'll keep tooling around with it but likely need to do the tape thing on the cam. I ordered a new cam but there isn't wear on the one that's in there

#786 6 days ago

Has anyone added a bill acceptor to their game?

#787 6 days ago

Go to the forum home page and type in Slugfest Restoration. Wow.

#788 6 days ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Curious if you found a solution?
For those that have applied the electrical tape fix to the cam, how much of each slot did you block with the tape? I'm having a bitch of a time trying to solve this damn ramp issue. I applied the washers fix to the ramp flap but it's not enough. I guess I'll keep tooling around with it but likely need to do the tape thing on the cam. I ordered a new cam but there isn't wear on the one that's in there

I have not. The Gorilla tape appears to have too much texture, so the cam catches. Having removed the tape, the cam doesn't stop at its high point. I'm now looking at the bat mech again. Never having seen a Slugfest until I got mine a few weeks ago, I'm not sure how much, if any, "slop" should be in the linkage. Should it be tight or sloppy? Anyone?

#789 5 days ago
Quoted from AntennaMan:

I have not. The Gorilla tape appears to have too much texture, so the cam catches. Having removed the tape, the cam doesn't stop at its high point. I'm now looking at the bat mech again. Never having seen a Slugfest until I got mine a few weeks ago, I'm not sure how much, if any, "slop" should be in the linkage. Should it be tight or sloppy? Anyone?

Damn...was hoping that the gorilla tape would be the solution. I have already added three washers to each of the two screws holding the ramp flap on as well as applied the electrical tape to cover some of the cam. I still need the ramp to go a bit higher and was hoping to just wrap some tape on the little arm on the ramp that the cam pushes. I need to find some strong tape that isn't textured I guess

#790 3 days ago

2 questions. On my playfield glass it has a plastic channel on the glass itself at the bottom. Is this factory? Not sure if glass is in upside down so that needs to be up top to protect glass edge in the metal channel? I can’t find it in the manual for a part number.

Can someone take a picture of how or where the beer seal goes. I think mine is on wrong.
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#791 3 days ago

Decided to take a break from futtsing with the ramp and put in LEDs. 2/3 of the lights were out to start, but now I'm down to 1/3. In the outfield, in each of the 3 light strips, the middle light on each strip is out. One the base paths to 1st, 2nd & 3rd, the middle light is out. All the lights between 3rd & Home are out. Lastly the 2 rows of lights behind the panel behind Homeplate, the top row is fine, but all of the bottom row is out. Haven't shuffled things around yet to get behind the machine to check fuses or anything yet. Anyone know if these are all connected and if so, where? Thanks.

#792 3 days ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

2 questions. On my playfield glass it has a plastic channel on the glass itself at the bottom. Is this factory?
Can someone take a picture of how or where the bear seal goes. I think mine is on wrong.[quoted image]

I don't think so

#793 2 days ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

2 questions. On my playfield glass it has a plastic channel on the glass itself at the bottom. Is this factory?
Can someone take a picture of how or where the bear seal goes. I think mine is on wrong.[quoted image]

Yes, mine also has the plastic channel. Without it there is a good chance that the control overlay would shatter the glass as it sits right on the edge of the glass.

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