(Topic ID: 217006)

Slugfest Club - Back, back, back… Gone!

By MrSanRamon

4 years ago


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There are 1,356 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 28.
#701 2 years ago

Did a modification on my Slugfest. Made a control panel like the original pitch and bats had. No more worries with the crack of death on the rounded edge.

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#702 2 years ago
Quoted from JanS:

Did a modification on my Slugfest. Made a control panel like the original pitch and bats had. No more worries with the crack of death on the rounded edge.

That's brilliant! I wish I did that before putting on my new overlay. Nice job!

#703 2 years ago
Quoted from JanS:

Did a modification on my Slugfest. Made a control panel like the original pitch and bats had. No more worries with the crack of death on the rounded edge.[quoted image][quoted image]

That looks soooooo good. How much time and effort did it take?

#704 2 years ago

You should sell these!

#705 2 years ago
Quoted from marspinball:

You should sell these!

I'd buy one!

#706 2 years ago

I had some 1/2 inch cabinet grade plywood laying around so I used it and cut it to the correct width and shape. I used the original to line up the hole positions on the back side. Then I cut a channel for the T molding. Bought a piece of Lexan and used the new control panel as the guide to cut it using a laminate bit in the router. I cut the lexan about a 1/2 inch over sized on all sides before trimming it with the router. Then using a hole saw I drilled through the back side 1/2 way so that just the drill bit punched through the Lexan. Then on the topside I used that hole as the guide to drill out each hole completely. Then I applied the overlay, trimmed it to size and cut out the holes for the buttons. Then I put the Lexan on the control panel installed the buttons and T molding using 2 small nails at the ends of the corners.. Probably about 4 hours total.

#707 2 years ago

PS I'll be selling CPO's made of vinyl that lays down with no bubbles and has a protective clear mylar top. Since they are not polycarbonate they will not crack like the originals do. The picture above of the CPO is the first sample that they made for me. I will also have the vinyl pitch and bat instructions decals too. They aren't like the originals because of the Williams trademark. They are the same bubble free vinyl. Probably $20.00 for it and $50.00 for the CPU or $60.00 for both + shipping. Here's the sample P & B instructions on mine.
DSCF0658 (resized).JPGDSCF0659 (resized).JPG

#708 2 years ago
Quoted from marspinball:

You should sell these

I would buy one as well!

#709 2 years ago

I sent you a PM to purchase a control panel. I wish I had the equipment to make one and find what you created perfect! Will you be making the wood control panels available for purchase?

1 week later
#710 2 years ago

Does anyone know what the size is for the cam lock on the card dispenser. Asking for a friend

OR, if anyone has an extra lock that fits that I could buy off of them.

#711 2 years ago
Quoted from ruralcollector:

Does anyone know what the size is for the cam lock on the card dispenser. Asking for a friend
OR, if anyone has an extra lock that fits that I could buy off of them.

Most cam locks can be "fiddled with" in order to get them to fit. I will check later tonight and see that mine has in it.

#712 2 years ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

Most cam locks can be "fiddled with" in order to get them to fit. I will check later tonight and see that mine has in it.

Thank you I have an extra one from an older coin door but I didn’t think it was possible to get it in there.

#713 2 years ago

Any updates on the sideblades? My machines could certainly use them

#714 2 years ago
Quoted from ruralcollector:

Thank you I have an extra one from an older coin door but I didn’t think it was possible to get it in there.

I took a quick look at mine last night. It looks like a pain to change, good luck.

#715 2 years ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

I took a quick look at mine last night. It looks like a pain to change, good luck.

I appreciate you checking Fortunately, I was able to donate one that fit from another one of my machines. And you are correct, an absolute pain to change! Thanks again!

#716 2 years ago

I saw this thread about the optos for the ramp. Could be useful

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/slugfest-finicky-ramp#post-5179830

#717 2 years ago

Ok so Im still new to forums as a rarely post so hopefully I selected the correct sub-forum.
My issues with Slugfest are as followed
When pitching a"fastball" I notice 1 issue for sure and maybe a second. The first is after the pitch leaves the flap it seems another ball gets stuck and holds the flap up (see picture), it sort of happens with the other pitches but the second ball hits the flap and but goes back down with the other pitches, Im safely assuming if I fix the fastball issue the others will be fixed too. The second possible issue is I dont think the pitches are being pitched correctly. Fastball pitches wide outside, change up seems to pitch fine (slow and down the middle), curve doesnt have any movement, screwball goes pretty much down the middle (could have sworn it cuts outside then back in)
The other issue is the far left target doesnt register on soft hits but does on harder hits, while all the other targets register on all hits
Wanted to get the communities opinion on what may be wrong before I go buying a bunch of parts I dont need.
Im assuming a magnet issue, opto or pitch mechanism issue.
If possible can links be given to where i can purchase the parts that you all suggest.
Thanks so much in advanced

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#718 2 years ago

Does anyone have the cabinet dimensions Handy (Sides, Front, and backbox)?....Mirco stated he might make up some rad cals, which I think would look great on this game (plus u can install over the existing faded artwork thus saving a bunch of time).....my game is at the other house otherwise I'd do this myself...thanks

#719 2 years ago

An update to my earlier post #717

So I figured out some things.
1) the pitching mechanism is missing a screw and became loose probably in transit, bought new screw tightened, pitch no longer veers to the right and becomes unhittable
2) the green flap, was assembled wrong and is missing pieces the green flap is supposed to go over the little strip of metal and is held in place by pins. **(where can I buy these pins?) Awaiting arrival on the assembly.
3) I don't think the magnet is fully functional does have some magnetic capacity but overall dead, awaiting arrival on new magnet.

Does anyone know where I can buy the piece circled in blue, also does anyone know what the piece circled in red is for? (Not my images)

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#720 2 years ago

I'm new to this forum... apologies for not going through every post. I'm sure someone has asked this question before, but I'm looking for the card catcher. Does anyone know if these are still being produced, or where I can find one?

I will try to send pics of my game later.... I've had it for a few years. It's one-of-a-kind.

Thanks.

#721 2 years ago
Quoted from ibenaiah:

I'm new to this forum... apologies for not going through every post. I'm sure someone has asked this question before, but I'm looking for the card catcher. Does anyone know if these are still being produced, or where I can find one?
I will try to send pics of my game later.... I've had it for a few years. It's one-of-a-kind.
Thanks.

If you search this forum you'll find a guy that might make you a card chute....he made mine and it turned out great...basically their an exact replica of the original chute

#722 2 years ago

What kind of O rings are used on the card dispenser pinch roller?

#723 2 years ago
Quoted from daveinkazoo:

What kind of O rings are used on the card dispenser pinch roller?

I'm not home otherwise I could look at what i got. There is a thread on pinside of a guy that does a full restore of a slugfest. He lists what he used on it. The problem is getting access to the mech, unless you plan on disassembling the whole mech, very time consuming, your gona be out of luck. I almost broke mine trying to work around it

#724 2 years ago
Quoted from daveinkazoo:

What kind of O rings are used on the card dispenser pinch roller?

Standard O rings u can buy at HD or Lowe's .. I got mine at HD

#725 2 years ago

I picked up a slugfest thats working well except for the ramp that seems to never find up or down position.

In test mode it says opto blocked and then error not in up position and the same for down.

The spinning black interrupter/lifter seems to be correct and I replaced the optos but it’s still doing the same thing.

Any ideas where I should look next?

#726 2 years ago

Thanks for the reply you guys. So I would cut off the old material and put a bunch of O rings on the cylinder?

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#727 2 years ago
Quoted from daveinkazoo:

Thanks for the reply you guys. So I would cut off the old material and put a bunch of O rings on the cylinder?[quoted image]

Mine used the ones posted in this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/slugfest-restoration#post-3295162

#728 2 years ago

Thanks again.

#729 2 years ago

Machine - For Sale
SlugFest Archived
Used - shows wear but 100% working and clean “Slugfest fully working with card dispenser. Full LEDs. Cabinet in good condition with some fade. $1550 Also have a nice multicade with large 24in crt monitor and 60-1 board in li...”
2019-08-31
Danville, VA
1,550
Archived after: 12 days
Viewed: 585 times
Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

I’ve got a slugfest for sale/trade. Also a nice multicade for sale too

#730 2 years ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

I picked up a slugfest thats working well except for the ramp that seems to never find up or down position.
In test mode it says opto blocked and then error not in up position and the same for down.
The spinning black interrupter/lifter seems to be correct and I replaced the optos but it’s still doing the same thing.
Any ideas where I should look next?

Desperation Bump

#731 2 years ago

Got my opto problem sorted out but my bat keeps binding up.

I took the mech apart and it looks like I need a new ball bracket and the other arm piece

Surprised by how much the bat bracket is but at least it will play like new when installed!

2 weeks later
#732 2 years ago

I found these while cleaning out my slugfest. There are 4 of these wire guides total and one post. Had been folded up got a while. Game is serving out 2 or 3 balls when it should be pitching only one. How many balls should be loaded into the game?

Thanks for and insight.
RC

IMG_20190921_154205851 (resized).jpg
#733 2 years ago

Any owners able to help me out on these questions? ^

#734 2 years ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Any owners able to help me out on these questions? ^

See page 1-6 in the Slugfest manual for how many balls need to be added:

https://www.ipdb.org/files/3281/Williams_1991_SlugFest_First_Model_Operations_Manual_April_1991_with_paginated_schematics.pdf

#735 2 years ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

There are 4 of these wire guides total and one post.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=12-6367

That is the link that goes above the outfielder target switches, show on page 2-26 of the operations manual.

#736 2 years ago

I remember as a kid looking at them new on the floor , my dad bought one I still have it ! Color dmd , chrome trim , LEDs
Love it We have a small collection of pitch n bats about 15 but SF is still my favorite

I’m in the Bay Area and always looking for another ? Pinball trade ?

1 week later
#737 2 years ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

I picked up a slugfest thats working well except for the ramp that seems to never find up or down position.
In test mode it says opto blocked and then error not in up position and the same for down.
The spinning black interrupter/lifter seems to be correct and I replaced the optos but it’s still doing the same thing.
Any ideas where I should look next?

I went through the same repair exercise recently and eventually traced the problem back to a battery acid damaged connector on the mpu. I made a video of my efforts you can view here.

#738 2 years ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

I found these while cleaning out my slugfest. There are 4 of these wire guides total and one post. Had been folded up got a while. Game is serving out 2 or 3 balls when it should be pitching only one. How many balls should be loaded into the game?
Thanks for and insight.
RC[quoted image]

The thin metal piece holds the targets in place. Hold onto them because one will eventually break. When you replace it you have to take the entire leaf switch apart

#739 2 years ago
Quoted from Budman:

The thin metal piece holds the targets in place. Hold onto them because one will eventually break. When you replace it you have to take the entire leaf switch apart

Thanks. I'll have to check if they are missing on the back targets.

The game is serving out 2 to 3 balls per pitch. Not sure how to adjust that. Really very new to Slugfest.

#740 2 years ago

If the metal piece breaks, you will know it because the target will be floppy and therefore not record a hit. That metal piece gives it rigidity. Those are simply spares should one break.

#741 2 years ago
Quoted from JanS:

PS I'll be selling CPO's made of vinyl that lays down with no bubbles and has a protective clear mylar top. Since they are not polycarbonate they will not crack like the originals do. The picture above of the CPO is the first sample that they made for me. I will also have the vinyl pitch and bat instructions decals too. They aren't like the originals because of the Williams trademark. They are the same bubble free vinyl. Probably $20.00 for it and $50.00 for the CPU or $60.00 for both + shipping. Here's the sample P & B instructions on mine.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Sent you a PM to buy a set. Never heard back.

Hope you still have some.

If anyone else has a spare control panel overlay or the instruction one for sale please message me.

1 week later
#742 2 years ago

Need some help working through three different issues on my slugfest

1) One of my target assemblies either needs to be replaced or removed and fixed. When the ball hits it solidly, the target gets stuck and doesn't spring back into place. I have to take the glass off and manually pull the target back into the normal standing position. How do you remove one of these target assemblies and any advice as to how to fix it? I'm not even sure how to get access to that area to remove it

2) I just installed LEDs in all of the control panel buttons as well as replaced on of the buttons. Now, they all light except for the 4 pitch buttons. I visually checked for a disconnected or broken wire and also reseated the two main connectors. Any additional thoughts on what could be wrong or what to look for to diagnose?

3) Even with a really solid hit straight up the middle with the ramp up, the ball will clip/hit the blue plastic and doesn't make it high enough to make it into the stands for the home run. I lowered the playfield angle to 6.5. The bat mech seems to have plenty of power otherwise. Perhaps the ramp isn't raising high enough?

Sorry for the lengthy post but would certainly appreciate recommendations/advice.

Thanks!

#743 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

1) One of my target assemblies either needs to be replaced or removed and fixed.

Take off the glass and the entire bank of switches slides forward like a drawer for repair or removal. I recall it is just held by some screws on each end.

Quoted from per3per3:

Even with a really solid hit straight up the middle with the ramp up, the ball will clip/hit the blue plastic and doesn't make it high enough to make it into the stands for the home run.

You can tell the bat is working well if you hit a ball solidly, and it often makes a "wack" noise when hitting/missing the targets. Assuming the bat is fine, the front of the ramp flap attaches under the playfield. I installed a 1mm or 0.5mm washer there between the underside of the playfield and the part of the flap that attaches. That makes the angle of the ramp steeper when up, and able to get homers.

#744 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Take off the glass and the entire bank of switches slides forward like a drawer for repair or removal. I recall it is just held by some screws on each end.

You can tell the bat is working well if you hit a ball solidly, and it often makes a "wack" noise when hitting/missing the targets. Assuming the bat is fine, the front of the ramp flap attaches under the playfield. I installed a 1mm or 0.5mm washer there between the underside of the playfield and the part of the flap that attaches. That makes the angle of the ramp steeper when up, and able to get homers.

Really appreciate the advice on both fronts!

#745 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Need some help working through three different issues on my slugfest
1) One of my target assemblies either needs to be replaced or removed and fixed. When the ball hits it solidly, the target gets stuck and doesn't spring back into place. I have to take the glass off and manually pull the target back into the normal standing position. How do you remove one of these target assemblies and any advice as to how to fix it? I'm not even sure how to get access to that area to remove it

Remove the 2 metal clips on the sides of the bleachers. Then you can pull out the bleacher assembly which will give you access to the target switches and lights.

Quoted from per3per3:

2) I just installed LEDs in all of the control panel buttons as well as replaced on of the buttons. Now, they all light except for the 4 pitch buttons. I visually checked for a disconnected or broken wire and also reseated the two main connectors. Any additional thoughts on what could be wrong or what to look for to diagnose?

The pitch buttons are all daisy chained GI. If one wire breaks loose on the chain or connector they will all go out. Carefully trace the wires and look for a break in the chain.

Quoted from per3per3:

3) Even with a really solid hit straight up the middle with the ramp up, the ball will clip/hit the blue plastic and doesn't make it high enough to make it into the stands for the home run. I lowered the playfield angle to 6.5. The bat mech seems to have plenty of power otherwise. Perhaps the ramp isn't raising high enough?
Thanks!

This was my problem too. The cam that lifts the ramp wears down ever so slightly over time. Marco has replacement cams. I rebuilt my ramp with a new cam and that fixed the problem. See my ramp fix video above. Now my problem is the fans in the stands keep throwing the ball back!

#746 2 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Remove the 2 metal clips on the sides of the bleachers. Then you can pull out the bleacher assembly which will give you access to the target switches and lights.

The pitch buttons are all daisy chained GI. If one wire breaks loose on the chain or connector they will all go out. Carefully trace the wires and look for a break in the chain.

This was my problem too. The cam that lifts the ramp wears down ever so slightly over time. Marco has replacement cams. I rebuilt my ramp with a new cam and that fixed the problem. See my ramp fix video above. Now my problem is the fans in the stands keep throwing the ball back!

Really appreciate the insights!

#747 2 years ago

Card Catchers are back in stock - finally got off my duff and made some more so anyone needing one shoot me a message

#748 2 years ago

Need some help.... Having some issues with my Slugfest. During game play only, Pitching game buttons on the panel are working sporadically. Works fine in test. When trying to pitch the ball using same button repeatedly, button stops working. Also, game appears to be in delay mode. Takes long time for ball to recycle after pitch is completed. I swapped out the CPU board and ROM and still same issues. Connectors and switches are good and appear to have no issue in test. I am baffled and could use some help and advise. Appreciate any and all feedback.

#749 2 years ago
Quoted from ericthehalfb:

Takes long time for ball to recycle after pitch is completed.

Probably not ready to pitch because things are acting up with the pitching mech.

#750 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Probably not ready to pitch because things are acting up with the pitching mech.

Thanks Neal for the tip. Appreciate your help and advice.

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