(Topic ID: 217006)

Slugfest Club - Back, back, back… Gone!


By MrSanRamon

1 year ago



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  • 81 Pinsiders participating
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There are 763 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 16.
#551 10 months ago

I have seen different cabinet art and model numbers. 60001 and 60021?

IPDB actually lists 3

#552 10 months ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

Looking at picking up a slugfest. I see there are a couple different models. Is there a pro or con of one over another?

Yes, there are 3 models, but only 2 were made as far as I know. The only differences are color of inserts, plastic T moulding, addition of an info decal, and probably a couple other minor things.

Essentially they are identical functioning.

You can get more info at IPDB.org.

Robert

1 week later
#553 9 months ago

Here's a question. The magnet on mine wasn't working. Fuse was good along with the drive transistors on the board. The small board under the playfield magnet transistor looked like it was a little cooked. Replaced it and the magnet still didn't work. Checked for continuity in the magnet coil and no beep. Pulled the wrapping off and there is a metal rectangular tube that the wires run through. I was thinking this was a fuse. The magnet looked good so I cut it out, spliced the wires together, checked for continuity which I now had and put a 2 1/2 amp slow blow fuse on that lead. The magnet works fine now and the fuse doesn't blow. I thought I'd see what's inside that tube and cut it open. It's a set of contacts. Could that possibly be like a thermal switch that breaks contact if the magnet coil ever locks on to prevent it from burning up? It was open so that's why the windings read open.

#554 9 months ago

Any new Slugfest ramps out there or plans of doing another run?

#555 9 months ago
Quoted from JanS:

Any new Slugfest ramps out there or plans of doing another run?

Are you referring to this part?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/slugfest-club-back-back-back-back%E2%80%A6-gone/page/2#post-4447830

Robert

#556 9 months ago

No I'm talking about a complete replacement ramp assembly to have as a spare.

#557 9 months ago
Quoted from JanS:

No I'm talking about a complete replacement ramp assembly to have as a spare.

A-14289 is the ramp assembly

#558 9 months ago

I know that. I'm trying to find one.

1 week later
#559 9 months ago

So I've replaced pretty much the whole bat assembly except the driver arm a-6338, which can't be bought anywhere. I have 77vdc (yes 77) at the bat coil. All my connectors look good on driver board. But still can't get the ball to clear the upper deck 95% of the time. The drive arm a-4690 I bought needed the hole filled out bigger to make roller drive arm 02-2750 fit (which is common). But for some reason there isn't enough room to get the flatwasher 4700-00051-00 to fit on with the hairpin clip (to tight of a fit, I could force clip on but then there isn't movement in bat assembly at all). So there isn't a washer between the drive arm and the clip which leaves a little bit of play. Is it possible that that little bit of play is causing the bat not enough power to clear the upper deck? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated, this is driving crazy, lol!

#560 9 months ago

Maybe the problem is with the ramp not raising up properly.

Robert

#561 9 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Maybe the problem is with the ramp not raising up properly.
Robert

I took the glass off and manually rolled ball you and it will clear the upper deck. It's very strange. It seems to not have enough power to clear it but it measures 77vdc constantly. When I bat the voltage drips around 64-67. I even adjusted ramp to make sure it's on the tip of the black plastic ramp piece. I'm baffled!

#562 9 months ago

If the ramp is raising properly and the game is set at no more than 7 degrees, then the issue is with the bat mech, or the power to the bat mech.

In ramp test, I measure the height of the ramp when up. It's a measurement on an angle with a ruler from the playfield to the highest edge of the ramp.

I measure right at 2 inches.

I also did a dvm measurement of the voltage at the bat coil. The voltage from the red wire to ground is 154vdc.

I ask that anyone else, with a capability, measure this voltage so we can to get a comparison.

Perhaps this will help you in your trouble shooting.

Robert

Added 9 months ago:

Addendum: I remeasured the voltage with a different DVM, and get the expected 75VDC reading at the coil to ground...either terminal.

Robert

#563 9 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

If the ramp is raising properly and the game is set at no more than 7 degrees, then the issue is with the bat mech, or the power to the bat mech.
In ramp test, I measure the height of the ramp when up. It's a measurement on an angle with a ruler from the playfield to the highest edge of the ramp.
I measure right at 2 inches.
I also did a dvm measurement of the voltage at the bat coil. The voltage from the red wire to ground is 154vdc.
I ask that anyone else, with a capability, measure this voltage so we can to get a comparison.
Perhaps this will help you in your trouble shooting.
Robert

Is it possible that the two wires going to the coil are backwards? Can you take a pic of the wiring on the coil plz. I guess I'm confused how I have 77vdc and you have 154vdc.

#564 9 months ago
Quoted from dugtmns:

Is it possible that the two wires going to the coil are backwards? Can you take a pic of the wiring on the coil plz. I guess I'm confused how I have 77vdc and you have 154vdc.

The voltage I measure and the measurement I get is an artifact of the DVM I am using. I think that the coil voltage should be around 70 volts (no-load condition).

What I will do is to get my oscilloscope out and measure the voltage and waveform tomorrow.

Robert

#565 9 months ago

Coil Pics...make sure your coil isn't installed backwards. The terminals should be towards the center of the game.

Robert

Coil Pic (resized).jpg

Coil Wiring Pic (resized).jpg

#566 9 months ago

My green pitching flap was naturally bent up and the end of flap was sitting up off the playfield a bit. As I would try to hit a homerun, the ball would hit the flap and slow it down. Lowering the pitch of the game helped.

Is your green flap flat? Is so, pitch of your game might be too high.

#567 9 months ago

My flap is flat and my game is set at 7 degrees, as the manual shows and I can hit home runs constantly.

In fact, to get the angle to 7 degrees, I purchased longer legs for the rear of the game.

A new flap can be purchased here: http://www.scvgames.com/items-for-sale/details.cfm/pitch-and-bat-ball-flap---new/id-90

Robert

#568 9 months ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

My green pitching flap was naturally bent up and the end of flap was sitting up off the playfield a bit. As I would try to hit a homerun, the ball would hit the flap and slow it down. Lowering the pitch of the game helped.
Is your green flap flat? Is so, pitch of your game might be too high.

My flap is flat. Also my coil is just like the ones Robert took pictures of. It will hit home runs every once in awhile, so I don't think it's ramp related. As for pitch of the game. I do have it as high as it will go. Not to sound dumb, but how exactly do you know what is 7 degree angle? What did u use to set that?

#569 9 months ago

I used to use a standard wooden level to measure playfield slope. Using trigonometry I would put a screw at one end of the level that protruded the correct amount that made the level read level when the playfield had the correct slope.

I used a caliper to measure the screws protrusion. If I wanted to change the slope, I would either extend or shorten the protruding screw to give a new goal slope.

Level Tool (resized).png

This level-screw method is very accurate, but sort of cumbersome.

Now I (mostly) use an app on my phone called "Pinball Leveler". Very useful and it even talks to you while you are under the machine.

Robert

#570 9 months ago

I just measured voltage at the coil. Red wire to ground is 72.9 to 73.0 DC and I can hit home runs. Has anyone asked if the correct spring is installed on the assembly?

#571 9 months ago
Quoted from JanS:

I just measured voltage at the coil. Red wire to ground is 72.9 to 73.0 DC and I can hit home runs. Has anyone asked if the correct spring is installed on the assembly?

Yep. I have the correct spring on it, not the dispenser on. The angle is 7 degrees now thanks to Robert. Still same problem though. Only thing I really haven't changed out it through driver arm because I can't locate one.

#572 9 months ago

Did you replace the coil when you re-built the assembly? Was there a new link and plunger assembly and coil stop installed? If the coil wasn't replaced did you install a new coil sleeve? If so did that sleeve have to be pressed in because the coil opening had become smaller?

#573 9 months ago
Quoted from JanS:

Did you replace the coil when you re-built the assembly? Was there a new link and plunger assembly and coil stop installed? If the coil wasn't replaced did you install a new coil sleeve? If so did that sleeve have to be pressed in because the coil opening had become smaller?

I replaced coil, sleeve, coil stop and plunger assembly. Not sure what you mean about pressing sleeve in though.

#574 9 months ago

I think he means does the coil sleeve just fall or slide out or did it take force to remove and reinstall

#575 9 months ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

I think he means does the coil sleeve just fall or slide out or did it take force to remove and reinstall

I replaced coil and sleeve. Both were new, it slid it without force.

#576 9 months ago

How about the bat position at rest. Where is the bat tip pointing in relation to a clock face? The manual pictures show it pointing to 4. Try pulling it off the shaft and pointing it to 6. See if this helps. If you manually swing the bat is there any binding or slop. Without lifting mine to look is there a nylon sleeve for the bat shaft like flipper assemblies have for the flipper bat shaft? If these do was it replaced?

image-5 (resized).jpg
#577 9 months ago
Quoted from dugtmns:

I replaced coil and sleeve. Both were new, it slid it without force.

Did you measure the height of the ramp, when fully up, yet?

Robert

#578 9 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Did you measure the height of the ramp, when fully up, yet?
Robert

Ramp is at 2 inches

#579 9 months ago
Quoted from JanS:

How about the bat position at rest. Where is the bat tip pointing in relation to a clock face? The manual pictures show it pointing to 4. Try pulling it off the shaft and pointing it to 6. See if this helps. If you manually swing the bat is there any binding or slop. Without lifting mine to look is there a nylon sleeve for the bat shaft like flipper assemblies have for the flipper bat shaft? If these do was it replaced?[quoted image]

I have a little bit of slop because I can't fit any washers between the hairclips and the assembly. Also the bat drive arm has play in it like there should be a washer between the playfield and the bat itself. I didn't notice any nylon sleeves either.

#580 9 months ago

Is the bat tip pointing to 6?

#581 8 months ago
Quoted from JanS:

Is the bat tip pointing to 6?

It's just like in your picture. More like 5.

#582 8 months ago

Wonder if the new coil is defective or has less windings than it should? If you still have the old coil try it.

#583 8 months ago
Quoted from JanS:

Wonder if the new coil is defective or has less windings than it should? If you still have the old coil try it.

Old coil is the same

1 week later
#584 8 months ago

Does anyone know where I can get the Williams instructions decal?? My plexi has a crack and I would like to make up a new one but will need a new decal. If someone has the spare plexi with decal let me know that would be even better.

D.

#585 8 months ago

Color dmd led looks awsum, updates the game and the flag colors pop !

#586 8 months ago
Quoted from whitey:

Color dmd led looks awsum, updates the game and the flag colors pop !

Some screenshots please

#587 8 months ago

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for this flap and/or flatten it out? As you can see it's bent and the ball keeps hitting it as it goes back up the middle. I just got this game yesterday and it needs some tweaking but this is the most glaring issue interfering with gameplay. Thanks

Slugfest (resized).jpg
#588 8 months ago

According to the photo of the part at marcospecialties, it is attached to a bracket that attaches to something under the playflield. Maybe you can remove the flap and bracket and carefully straighten it.

photo here:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14287

#589 8 months ago

Thanks. That makes it a lot easier. I’ll remove it and try to flatten

2 weeks later
#591 7 months ago

I Need help with some switches on my slugfest. Game is working ok except for 3 switches for the bleachers (61,62,63) They were converted from opto switches to micro switches and were working ok. 63 was flaky so I replaced it now all three do not work. Has 12v at each switch. I am a newbee and still do not read schematics real well. Just found this club. This is great. Please help.

#592 7 months ago
Quoted from lfbmeineke:

Game is working ok except for 3 switches for the bleachers (61,62,63)

The 3 bleachers optos normally connect to an small opto board in the back at J2,J3,J4. Is that how your switches are connected? Connections looks OK? Nothing shorted or loose on the switches?

Untitled (resized).png

#593 7 months ago

So the opto board was bypassed. Micro switches were used in place of opto switch. Ball passes thru hole and hits micro switch to score. It all was working fine. Until I replaced one flaky switch.

#594 7 months ago

So I checked connections and they are all good. So the Bl/gr wire is for column 6 has 12v that goes to the J206 connector. That connects to all 3 switches. The Wh/br, wh/rd and wh/or each goes to a switch and to J208. The thing that is confusing is that also reads 12v. Appreciate any help.

#595 7 months ago

I am interested in buying a nice Slugfest. I own 6 pins and am looking to add a multicade and something else (like Slugfest) to diversify. I live near Saint Louis, MO. Thanks!

#596 7 months ago

Why not just replace the bad opto and wire it back the way it's supposed to be. Plug the opto board back in and put it in switch test and see which one is bad. I'm assuming the original parts are all still there?

1 week later
#597 7 months ago

Does anyone know if a reproduction Slugfest playfield exists out there?

#598 7 months ago
Quoted from ramsfan:

Does anyone know if a reproduction Slugfest playfield exists out there?

Doesn't the playfield have a sheet of Plexiglas or something over it? Is your Plexiglas damaged?

Also - I believe there are parts machines out there. Make a post looking for a PF, and I bet someone has a decent one in their boneyard.

1 week later
#599 7 months ago

Just picked up a Slugfest. One of the outfield targets isn’t working. I think it might be missing the switch assembly. It doesn’t register when it’s hit and doesn’t lock into place (missing a spring?)

Anyhow I’m trying to get back there to fix it. I took off the outfield plastic, removed the two black brackets and started to slide the whole piece out but I am getting some resistance. So how do I remove this part?

#600 7 months ago
Quoted from Palmer:

Just picked up a Slugfest. One of the outfield targets isn’t working. I think it might be missing the switch assembly. It doesn’t register when it’s hit and doesn’t lock into place (missing a spring?)
Anyhow I’m trying to get back there to fix it. I took off the outfield plastic, removed the two black brackets and started to slide the whole piece out but I am getting some resistance. So how do I remove this part?

You need to unplug the opto connectors from the opto board that is mounted inside the back of the cabinet, as well as the GI connector.

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There are 763 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 16.

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