Slugfest Club - Back, back, back… Gone!

(Topic ID: 217006)

Slugfest Club - Back, back, back… Gone!


By MrSanRamon

7 months ago



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  • 525 posts
  • 50 Pinsiders participating
  • Topic is favorited by 24 Pinsiders

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There are 525 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 11.
#451 24 days ago
Quoted from Magicchiz:

Anybody seen the green ball flaps for sale?

slugfest A-14287 is not readily available as far as I know, you'll probably need to make one

Pinball Resource sells 6” X 12” Tempered Blue Spring Steel Ramp Flap Material, .004” Thick...you could use for fabrication.

Robert

#452 24 days ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

slugfest A-14287 is not readily available as far as I know, you'll probably need to make one
Pinball Resource sells 6” X 12” Tempered Blue Spring Steel Ramp Flap Material, .004” Thick...you could use for fabrication.
Robert

Yeah not a real great cut metal worker. usually mess that stuff up. Mine has a slight bend in it. I knew it was a long shot, ut figured it was worth asking.
Magicchiz

#453 24 days ago
Quoted from Magicchiz:

not a real great cut metal worker

That material is really thin, you'd probably need to get it cut on a shear. A local sheet metal fab shop would be able to do it, no problem, as they are all straight cuts.

Robert

#454 24 days ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

slugfest A-14287 is not readily available as far as I know, you'll probably need to make one
Pinball Resource sells 6” X 12” Tempered Blue Spring Steel Ramp Flap Material, .004” Thick...you could use for fabrication.
Robert

I belive this is the same flap used on other pitch and bats. I belive i saw them for sale on pinball resource.

#455 23 days ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

He may be looking for part # a-6338, which is hard to find.
Robert

That is the exact part I'm looking for.

#456 23 days ago

I still have a spare Control Panel Overlay.

A couple of people have made inquiries, but no takers yet...if anyone is interested PM me.

Robert

#457 23 days ago
Quoted from dugtmns:

That is the exact part I'm looking for.

Do you have the original one that is worn or broken...or is it missing?

Robert

#458 23 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Ok so here is the deal - my Slugfest came without the small board that goes in the card dispenser. I bought one from Marco and installed it. The dispenser motor now works, but the opto that detects cards and the low cards switch and the low card led all do not work. It will only dispense cards once per power up because it can’t count how many cards without the opto. Anyone have this issue? Wiring seems good.

Any suggestions for the optos not working? Anyone have this happen?

#459 23 days ago

I frequently have the magnate effecting all pitches. Tried new balls. Made sure it is on two player so I know what pitch it is.

#460 22 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Any suggestions for the optos not working? Anyone have this happen?

When mine stopped working, it was because a wire had been pulled loose from the coin door interlock switch. It's in an area that I think can get snagged and pulled by the Z connectors to the control panel when you take the control panel off.

#461 22 days ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I frequently have the magnate effecting all pitches. Tried new balls. Made sure it is on two player so I know what pitch it is.

Mine does too.
There is a setting in the game settings that will randomize the pitches regardless of what button you select, even in two players. Make sure that is set correctly.
I'm starting to think that the magnet can come on and effect the pitch if you're constantly throwing the same pitch over and over.

#462 22 days ago
Quoted from tamoore:

When mine stopped working, it was because a wire had been pulled loose from the coin door interlock switch. It's in an area that I think can get snagged and pulled by the Z connectors to the control panel when you take the control panel off.

This makes sense. I don’t have an interlock switch. Can you please take a photo of yours?? BTW your photos for the top door helped a LOT!

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#463 22 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

This makes sense. I don’t have an interlock switch. Can you please take a photo of yours?? BTW your photos for the top door helped a LOT!
[quoted image]

There's no switch inside of your coin door? Open the coin door, look to the upper left attached to the cabinet. if it's not there, two green wires should be twisted together, or connected to a white connector together.

#464 22 days ago
Quoted from tamoore:

There's no switch inside of your coin door? Open the coin door, look to the upper left attached to the cabinet. if it's not there, two green wires should be twisted together, or connected to a white connector together.

No switch for sure. There are two green wires (w/red) attached and a white (w/red) wire by itself.

#465 22 days ago

There's a controller under the card tray... Not sure if that controls the opto or not, but mine has a couple of LED's on, I think.
Check connections there, and at the other interconnect/Z connectors inside the cabinet.

Also, go into switch test mode, and see if the opto is always closed. There might be an alignment issue with them.

That's all I have, unfortunately...

#466 22 days ago
Quoted from tamoore:

There's a controller under the card tray... Not sure if that controls the opto or not, but mine has a couple of LED's on, I think.
Check connections there, and at the other interconnect/Z connectors inside the cabinet.
Also, go into switch test mode, and see if the opto is always closed. There might be an alignment issue with them.
That's all I have, unfortunately...

Thanks. Yeah I have done test mode etc. I think my missing coin door switch wiring needs to be looked at.

#467 22 days ago

I made a new decal for the topper and still have a couple left. If anyone is interested, PM me.

I used the wet method, which makes the trimming a little more difficult...when you're too lazy to wait a while for the liquid to evaporate.

But it looks great when installed on the machine

Robert

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#468 22 days ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I frequently have the magnate effecting all pitches.

I think that the magnet core is so old (magnetized a whole lot of times) that some (pr a lot) of the magnetic properties persists after the current is removed, leaving the core a weak permanent magnet.

This residual magnetization can be removed by degaussing the core or by buying a new one..Marco has the bracket and core assembly:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14647

Robert

#469 22 days ago

I'm rebuilding my bat, which works decent (although I seem to either pull or go opposite field on most hits). After a cleaning of all the grease (real grease like from a car, the waterproof kind) I could hit home runs.

Either the baseball bat driver arm assembly (thing the bat bolts to) is worn or the bushing/shaft on the entire bracket is worn, maybe both.
The arm obviously isn't available as discussed earlier by others, but i'd still consider replacing the bracket if I knew for sure it would help.
Not really into a $85 experiment though.
Also the bat driver arm assembly has a plate on the bottom that is loose, is that normal? Should I put a tack weld on it?

My bat drive arm (slotted one) and bushing are a friggin disaster so for sure they are getting replaced.

Any input is appreciated.

I don't have manual in front of me right now, it takes 6 balls?
I want to buy a new batch after cleaning all the mechanisms.

Any parts that I should order for the pitching setup?
I haven't looked into it yet, but seems to work fine.

Really just don't want to have to place multiple orders with marcos and lose an extra $10 a clip.

#470 22 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

think my missing coin door switch wiring needs to be looked at.

Marco sells new interlock switches:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/27-1111

Robert

Switch #8:

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#471 22 days ago
Quoted from jcar302:

Any parts that I should order for the pitching setup?

If it was me, I'd take the entire bat unit assembly off the game clean it thoroughly and inspect each part and how it fits with the others.

I really can't advise what to replace w/o seeing the game...though I'd suspect that items: 1, 2, 6, 11 & 17 will need replacement and I'd inspect item 3 and how it fits in the Bracket #4.

The car grease may have been used to mask worn parts.

Robert

Bat Unit Assy (resized).jpg

#472 22 days ago

Thanks for the reply bob,
I have it all out and apart.
I need a stronger degreaser than I have at my house to get the parts really clean.

#1 has to replaced, it's bent, twisted and the slot is destroyed.
#2 is good, fits and works properly (I expected this part to be messed up and had it in my cart at marcos, but since removed it from the cart after inspections)
#6 No damage
#11 Needs replacing
#17 Looks to be in pretty good shape.
#13 The spring needs replacing

How #3 fits into #4 is my main worry.
Since #3 isn't available and #4 costs $85.
There is a decent amount of play, more than I like.
I just don't know which part is worse, if not both.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-6338
If you look in that pic, the bottom plate has a lot of play, I have to guess it's not supposed to?

#473 20 days ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Do you have the original one that is worn or broken...or is it missing?
Robert

I still have the part. It's just damaged from rust and build up.

#474 19 days ago

I’m officially in!

Now... to finish the game room and find it a nice spacious spot

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#475 19 days ago

Welcome to the club chosen.

On another note, my buddy stopped by (he owns a marine machine shop) and took the driver arm and frame. He's going to clean up the arm and sleeve the frame for a nice smooth fit.
He seemed to brush it off as if it's 15 minutes worth of work when I was worrying if it was possible or not. He usually straightens prop shafts and propellers for tug boats and small ships etc. so I didn't know if it was too small for him to work on.

#476 19 days ago
Quoted from jcar302:

He's going to clean up the arm and sleeve the frame for a nice smooth fit

I think that is what people are probably going to have to do going forward, if new driver arms aren't available. I was going to suggest this to you , but didn't know what your machining skill level was.

Robert

#477 19 days ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

I think that is what people are probably going to have to do going forward, if new driver arms aren't available. I was going to suggest this to you , but didn't know what your machining skill level was.
Robert

Well seeing as I own a machine shop......lol - if enough of you have a request I could make some up. Let me know what parts you need (send pics is best)

#478 19 days ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

Well seeing as I own a machine shop

There are any number of parts, for Slugfest and other machines, that are NLA and need to be remade.

For the driver arm and bracket assembly, I'm not sure what would be the best (and inexpensive) approach for repair...seeing that both are probably worn.

The sleeving is probably best, but shipping them to you and back would probably be a killer.

Robert

#479 19 days ago

Hey Robert,
Yeah shipping is a killer. Ideally if we can get some samples I can just make from scratch new and ship as an assembly or even by part. The biggest thing is to make enough of a volume that it is economical. If there is anyone out there that has an old assembly they can part with let me know. I would rather do that than pull mine out of the game and tear apart to get sizes-

#480 19 days ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

I think that is what people are probably going to have to do going forward, if new driver arms aren't available. I was going to suggest this to you , but didn't know what your machining skill level was.
Robert

While I normally can fix pretty much anything, some things that require absolute precision I shy away from. Especially when it's made out of unobtanium.
As a car guy i'm connected to people than can fix or modify pretty much anything. But I don't like to bother people on things that I know for sure are not profitable. My machine shop friend works on parts that are sometimes 50 grand, the reality is that fixing a part on my pinball machine not only costs the time it takes to do it, but lost time to work on things that are extremely profitable.

#482 19 days ago
Quoted from jcar302:

While I normally can fix pretty much anything, some things that require absolute precision I shy away from. Especially when it's made out of unobtanium.
As a car guy i'm connected to people than can fix or modify pretty much anything. But I don't like to bother people on things that I know for sure are not profitable. My machine shop friend works on parts that are sometimes 50 grand, the reality is that fixing a part on my pinball machine not only costs the time it takes to do it, but lost time to work on things that are extremely profitable.

You are spot on in your comments. No money to be made, but if your a pinball enthusiast that most of us are (like car guys) we do it for the love of it. Trust me it doesn't pay to have a half million $$ machine making a few spare parts.

#483 16 days ago

Can anyone tell me the voltage that should be at the bat coil. I'm thinking maybe I'm not getting enough voltage at the coil to hit home runs.

#484 15 days ago
Quoted from dugtmns:

Can anyone tell me the voltage that should be at the bat coil. I'm thinking maybe I'm not getting enough voltage at the coil to hit home runs.

50 Vdc the correct coil is a-14789

Robert

#485 14 days ago

The post office just doesn't want me to have a really nice slugfest.
First they lost my overlay for a month and now my marco's package that normally takes two days is showing "Your package will arrive later than expected, but is still on its way. It is currently in transit to the next facility."

Which really means they lost it, again...

#486 14 days ago
Quoted from jcar302:

The post office just doesn't want me to have a really nice slugfest.
First they lost my overlay for a month and now my marco's package that normally takes two days is showing "Your package will arrive later than expected, but is still on its way. It is currently in transit to the next facility."
Which really means they lost it, again...

Maybe you should move from New Jersey...where apparently the post office doesn’t deliver!

Robert

#487 14 days ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Maybe you should move from New Jersey...where apparently the post office doesn’t deliver!
Robert

postal service in the pines. maybe the Jersey Devil has it.

#488 11 days ago

Postal service decided to deliver my parts yesterday, better late than never I guess.

I bought the plunger link, thinking I might as well have all new parts, but I wasted $20, while mine wasn't as pretty it shows zero wear compared to the new one..

However, the slotted arm is 1000% improvement, so is the roller bushing.

My buddy should have the machined arm and chassis today so we will see soon how much difference it makes.
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#489 11 days ago

So the chassis is sleeved (I think with bronze, not sure though), machined a hair off of the shaft.
It's silky smooth now.

Everything is clean and bind free.

One issue I had though, is the slot in the one arm wasn't big enough to take the new bushing. In fact it wasn't even big enough to take the old worn one. So I reamed it out a little bit, used the old bushing upside down.
I figure if for some reason it wears and it opens a bit, i'll just swap in the replacement bushing.

Oh, and the extension spring I bought, apparently that is for card dispenser, doh.
I just re-used the old one with a new hook bent into the end.

Smashes home runs so fast sometimes I can't even tell where the ball went.

Have to give everywhere the ball goes a good cleaning, then I will install new balls.

6 balls right? At least that's what I bought.

#490 10 days ago
Quoted from jcar302:

One issue I had though, is the slot in the one arm wasn't big enough to take the new bushing. In fact it wasn't even big enough to take the old worn one.

Mine was the same.

Yes, 6 balls.

Robert

#491 10 days ago

Guys Marco has the CPO in stock FYI

#492 10 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Guys Marco has the CPO in stock FYI

$159...yikes!

Robert

#493 9 days ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

$159...yikes!
Robert

That’s what I said. I wonder if it is NOS.

#494 9 days ago

I saw a couple weeks back when I was ordering parts from marco for my slugfest.

I chalked it up to supply and demand...

#495 9 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

I wonder if it is NOS

NOS would probably have less than perfect glue on the sticky side by now.

Robert

#496 9 days ago
Quoted from jcar302:

I chalked it up to supply and demand...

I sold mine too cheap I guess...just kidding.

Robert

#497 9 days ago

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#498 9 days ago

Just bought a SlugFest. My first pitch and bat. A friend has picked it up so I'll be getting it this weekend. Does anyone have a flyer source, spares or a scanner to send me front and back copies? The original not the special edition flyer that's on Ebay I'll let you know how things work out after I have it back home.

#499 9 days ago

Hoping someone out there is familiar with troubleshooting the card dispenser.

My card dispenser is installed and activated within the settings.

It ONLY dispenses cards (5) on the first hit home run......thats it. Nothing happens again until the game is reset. The light only comes on in the card dispenser after that first home run but does not come on when the game is first started.

The button within the card dispenser does nothing before or after that first home run is hit.

I don't see any adjustments or further tests within the software.

Any ideas on this? Any other ways to test it that are straightforward?

Thanks!

#500 8 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

Hoping someone out there is familiar with troubleshooting the card dispenser.
My card dispenser is installed and activated within the settings.
It ONLY dispenses cards (5) on the first hit home run......thats it. Nothing happens again until the game is reset. The light only comes on in the card dispenser after that first home run but does not come on when the game is first started.
The button within the card dispenser does nothing before or after that first home run is hit.
I don't see any adjustments or further tests within the software.
Any ideas on this? Any other ways to test it that are straightforward?
Thanks!

you can adjust that in the settings

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