(Topic ID: 327035)

Slow clock on WPC95, which crystal do I need?

By DaveTheTrain

3 months ago


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    #1 3 months ago

    Our junk yards clock has never worked. It's very slow and loses multiple minutes every real minute.
    It doesn't matter if the game is on, or off, it loses time.It's frustrating as this is a game that benefits from a real time clock, in attract it has a cuckoo clock every hour, as well as midnight madness mode.
    It's sitting next to Congo which also has a midnight madness, so we were imagining both playing each game at the same time and midnight madness going off at the same time... It's unique and fun! (Congo has no issues with keeping time at all)

    Ive checked and changed the batteries, including installing a battery pack off the board. Near the batteries the schematic shows a crystal oscillator but it was missing on our game with no sign there was ever one installed, so I bought one and added it in... No change at all.

    I notice there's another, much bigger crystal oscillator lower down on the board.
    I've ordered a replacement incase it's worth swapping.

    What is the difference between the two oscillators? Why was one missing and does it not have any use?

    What else can I try?

    Pic of the location of the second bigger oscillator.
    Screenshot_20221206_194540_Drive (resized).jpg

    #2 3 months ago

    EDIT: I did not post correct information... deleted.

    #3 3 months ago

    The circuit of the RTC is the same with WPC, WPC-s and WPC95.
    X1 is a crystal 32.768 KHz

    X1 (resized).png

    #4 3 months ago
    Quoted from zaza:

    The circuit of the RTC is the same with WPC, WPC-s and WPC95.
    X1 is a crystal 32.768 KHz
    [quoted image]

    I installed a crystal go that spec into X1, it had no impact. The mystery to me is why the board came without one installed. Did Williams forget?

    Quoted from PinRetail:

    The x2 8MHz crystal runs the 2MHz clock signal, it tells the ASIC chip to keep the time and date.
    This should work:
    https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5520-14761-00
    Interestingly, the Security CPU doesn't have a schematic easily available, so I can't speculate on what X1 would have been used for.

    So X2 does have an impact on the real time clock and is worth swapping to a new one? I was worrying it had a different purpose.
    I thought the battery circuit with X1 did the clock, especially when the machine is off, but it loses minutes when the machine is off .. would x2 have any impact on this?

    #5 3 months ago

    Crystals have a high profile and if the board was out of the game it might of gotten knocked off.

    I doubt the 8mhz crystal is the problem or more than the real time clock would be going slow.

    Do you have multimeter with a frequency setting? Stick it on the 4584 Pin 12. You should see 32Khz.

    If the RTC is out of time and you replaced the crystal already, check/replace two load capacitors in the oscillator circuit (27pF usually).

    #6 3 months ago

    I've never seen a game yet that can keep the correct time and date, especially from that era.

    John

    #7 3 months ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    Crystals have a high profile and if the board was out of the game it might of gotten knocked off.
    I doubt the 8mhz crystal is the problem or more than the real time clock would be going slow.
    Do you have multimeter with a frequency setting? Stick it on the 4584 Pin 12. You should see 32Khz.
    If the RTC is out of time and you replaced the crystal already, check/replace two load capacitors in the oscillator circuit (27pF usually).

    There was no solder or any evidence of there ever being a crystal there, the pads looked fresh from factory . It's bizzare.

    I've got a DMM , not sure if it has that setting, I'll take a look but I doubt it as it's a cheap one.
    I replaced those caps recently too, I did the 3 caps and oscillator that are on the battery circuit schematic.

    Quoted from Dayhuff:

    I've never seen a game yet that can keep the correct time and date, especially from that era.
    John

    It's losing minutes at a time, all my other games are pretty solid. Congo is on the dot, as is Road show, the rest I don't bother with the real time clock as he doesn't effect the games.

    #8 3 months ago

    It's too bad wms didn't put flipper codes in the games with midnight madness so you could try it out without the clock being an issue.

    How does it keep time if you set the clock and leave the game on for a bit and then check the time? None of my wpc games keep accurate time when they're off. None have a midnight madness mode though and the only one that would concern me is the AFM rule the universe time and date, being inaccurate.... and in the grand scheme of things, not very important.

    #9 3 months ago
    Quoted from slochar:

    It's too bad wms didn't put flipper codes in the games with midnight madness so you could try it out without the clock being an issue.
    How does it keep time if you set the clock and leave the game on for a bit and then check the time? None of my wpc games keep accurate time when they're off. None have a midnight madness mode though and the only one that would concern me is the AFM rule the universe time and date, being inaccurate.... and in the grand scheme of things, not very important.

    Junk Yard loses time when it's turned on, and quickly. About same as when it's off.

    I don't mind minutes creeping over a month or so but JY loses time within 5mins real time.

    #10 3 months ago
    Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

    There was no solder or any evidence of there ever being a crystal there, the pads looked fresh from factory . It's bizzare.
    I've got a DMM , not sure if it has that setting, I'll take a look but I doubt it as it's a cheap one.
    I replaced those caps recently too, I did the 3 caps and oscillator that are on the battery circuit schematic.

    It's losing minutes at a time, all my other games are pretty solid. Congo is on the dot, as is Road show, the rest I don't bother with the real time clock as he doesn't effect the games.

    Did the they stuff the load capacitors and the resistors shown in the snippit zaza posted? These games will work without a RTC. Maybe they built some with out the RTC parts for whatever reasons or it was carefully desoldered at some point in the past.

    #11 3 months ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    Did the they stuff the load capacitors and the resistors shown in the snippit zaza posted? These games will work without a RTC. Maybe they built some with out the RTC parts for whatever reasons or it was carefully desoldered at some point in the past.

    All of that schematic except the x1 crystall was present.

    I've ordered a new multimeter with HZ setting as I was due a new one anyhow.

    I compared the voltage from batteries with Congo and JYs batteries are providing a stronger voltage than congos so it can't be them. Unless I can check the voltage closer to the crystal to see if it's losing voltage on its journey to the crystal? Any suggestions of a place to test?

    I was also under the impression if the crystal doesn't exist or isn't working at all the time wouldn't progress at all? Or does it use something else?

    #12 3 months ago

    It's a pierce oscillator circuit that feeds into the ASIC which counts the cycles to run the real time clock. The asic has some internal memory and is connected to the battery.

    You have to probe on the output side of 4584 going to the asic.

    #13 3 months ago

    Swap the card with a game that doesn't drift in time (and don't have a midnight mode); problem solved.

    The correct time wouldn't bother me at all. All my games have nvram anyway so clock only proceed when game is turned on.

    #14 3 months ago

    I have a multimeter that measures HZ now, I measured across the bottom legs of c29 and c39 and get 32ish...
    On junk yard i get 0.
    It's a new crystall, and I have another spare if needed.
    Could it not be getting power? Where would I test this?

    So what next?

    Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

    Swap the card with a game that doesn't drift in time (and don't have a midnight mode); problem solved.
    The correct time wouldn't bother me at all. All my games have nvram anyway so clock only proceed when game is turned on.

    I only have two other wpc95 games, AFM and Congo. I'd rather just solve the issue!

    #15 3 months ago
    Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

    I have a multimeter that measures HZ now, I measured across the bottom legs of c29 and c39 and get 32ish...
    On junk yard i get 0.
    It's a new crystall, and I have another spare if needed.
    Could it not be getting power? Where would I test this?
    So what next?

    I only have two other wpc95 games, AFM and Congo. I'd rather just solve the issue!

    Your multimeter can crash the crystal from oscillating by probing at the load caps. The multimeter adds some capacitance. Stick meter on P12 of the inverter going to the ASIC P70.

    That said two different results likely means the oscillator circuit isn't working. I would check the two resistor values and install new load capacitors. Get NP0 or C0G type. If the caps aren't matched well the oscillator may not run. I guess the 4584 inverter could have one bad gate.

    Why crystal did you buy?
    https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/yic/32.768K12.5P2%2FDT38/15648610

    #16 3 months ago

    I bought these ones. I had the option of the tall cylindrical ones but for some reason picked these. I am not sure if they're different?
    20221208_205217 (resized).jpg

    The caps were changed and I made a mess of it. But we still have continuity, I'd be worried about swapping them again unless they're definitely an issue.

    I probed 4584 and compared to congos. Pin 12 probes high and low on both games but pin 13 shows nothing on JY.

    #17 3 months ago

    Should have clarified pin 13 of 4584 on Congo was showing some behaviour with the logic probe(I forget which) but the same pin on JY is dead.
    Does this indicate it's 4584? Or could it be caused further back?

    #18 3 months ago
    Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

    Should have clarified pin 13 of 4584 on Congo was showing some behaviour with the logic probe(I forget which) but the same pin on JY is dead.
    Does this indicate it's 4584? Or could it be caused further back?

    You cant reliably probe there. The multimeter leads / probe have enough capacitance to stop the oscillator circuit. Probe at Pin 12 with your hz setting.

    #19 3 months ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    You cant reliably probe there. The multimeter leads / probe have enough capacitance to stop the oscillator circuit. Probe at Pin 12 with your hz setting.

    I'm quite the intermediate with the electronics side of pinball, I understand bits and pieces only through trial and error or someone helping me.
    This is first time I've had a DMM with Hz setting, can I probe with just one lead, if not where do I put the other?

    Can you explain like I'm 5 what pin 12 should be doing?
    I assumed the crystal is powered and sends a frequency to it, or is it more than that?

    #20 3 months ago
    Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

    I'm quite the intermediate with the electronics side of pinball, I understand bits and pieces only through trial and error or someone helping me.
    This is first time I've had a DMM with Hz setting, can I probe with just one lead, if not where do I put the other?
    Can you explain like I'm 5 what pin 12 should be doing?
    I assumed the crystal is powered and sends a frequency to it, or is it more than that?

    HZ setting. Black lead on ground. Red lead touch P12 with the HV setting. It should read 32KHz

    A logic probe just us know if its solid high (red) solid low (green) or pulsing (yellow + Red/Gr). Since your issue is bad time, probe does not tell us much unless it is solid low/high or stuck at 2v flat (not oscillating, just mid voltage usually means blown chip gate). Plus depending on where you probe in this sensitive circuit (anywhere but P12) it can crash out the oscillator circuit.

    #21 3 months ago

    I had already replaced the caps in the battery circuit and made a mess of it. So to save me messing around I sent it to someone, he fixed a broken trace on the caps and replaced the crystal, I think the one I put in wasn't working right, even though the they claim to be the correct hz.

    It keeps time now... except when it's off. It doesn't progress time at all.
    As far as I know he just fixed the broken trace across the bottoms of C29 and R92 and put in a new crystal.

    Before it was consistent in keeping bad time when on or off.
    I've messaged the person who fixed it but if it's something simple I can probably fix it, especially as it was keeping (bad) time when off before.

    20221214_161930 (resized).jpg

    #22 3 months ago

    All good! D2 had failed.

    Working perfectly now

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