This restore has taken a lot longer than usual. There is a lot going on under the hood with this game.

Finally was able to get the innards finished and finally got on with the cabinet. It was a good cabinet painted over with a white paint and red splatter. Was able to find the original paint underneath and got a good red under a leg and blue sample for mixing inside the cabinet.

Used a Krylon silver marble can to add the webbing mixed with a little bit of thinner per Boilerman's recipe and applied through a spray gun. Think Pinhead52 does it this way to.

The cabinet was solid except the front that was delaminating, warped and needed major loving to fit back properly.
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So after much filling using Bondo and tried the Half Time product too.
First the priming using cheap auto paint. Did the spraying in my new spray booth.
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Sanded smooth and then sprayed the base coat. Not stark white but a nice Ivory color.
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Then the webbing. Wow, was I uncomfortable but it was the easiest part of the work.
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Painted with over spray (not intended) and started to put together.
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I make them out of 0.05" thick mylar. I make a master from the game and then make copies and cut them out. I use a electric cutter that you scribe with and it cuts the mylar like butter. You can use an exacto knife and it works fine to. Finally I use a tacky spray glue to place in position.

For a good example look at the link starting at thread #16.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-1962-world-series-pitch-bat-game-restore-%E2%80%93part-2#post-2461314

I use a Pantone book to compare the game color and then get that matched with auto paint. I have had bad luck with the box stores as they say the Pantone swatches are too small.

The job is nice but not ready to put one of my games next to yours. I'm still learning from you guys.

Thanks Dave,

From you that is a compliment indeed.

Learning the techniques that are described and then being able to master them is a very satisfying feeling. You and Ken have given excellent pointers and advice over the years it is fun to try them all out and so satisfying when it all works out.

Straight up, I use the cheap Harbor Freight equipment recommended by Vid. I have one for colors and one for clear that I don't mix up. I have a third for the webbing that has a small top mounted cup.

Here is the guns I use.

Painting and Clearing. (2 separate guns)
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Small touch up or as of now webbing.
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Similar to the way we spray paint, except quicker. A side was done in 3-5 seconds. I let it dry for a 10 minutes then re sprayed where I thought it was light. Did not need to touch it again.

I later on the next day made a painting mistake on the light box and had to repaint the base coat on two sides and re apply the webbing. I mixed less than 2 oz of the webbing from a spray tin added a drop of lacquer thinner stirred and added to the gun and it was similar to the first day.

The first day I sprayed most of a can into a jar before adding a thimble of thinner. An hour later I stirred the mixture a bit and added to the gun cup and lowered the recommended pressure to about 57 PSI and it was a nice light webbing without any over-spray or anything. Ten seconds later I felt confident enough to add to the cabinet. 30 seconds later I was done. I had most of the mix left, so you could practice a lot until you were sure.

Steve J.

Yes , keep the flow 100% open and the air at 60 psi. I answered your PM. Good luck Larry and practice a bit first to get your confidence.