Quoted from Kderrick:Likes a dog
She’s the best!
(Topic ID: 260345)
Linked Games
Diner
Williams, 1990
Topic Gallery
Seattle, WA
Hahaha flannel would be a first on pinball trim I think, that would be crazy. I like the purple the best personally although the orange is interesting in the full set. Blue is nice too - stands out more than purple and red blends in too much I think
If you could glue some actual flannel strips on, that would be amazing. Also keep your hands warm during the winter!
1 week later
1 week later
After a quick trip to Joshua Tree to see IDELS I came home to my cabinet art printed and delivered. I’m letting the big pieces lay flat for a day or two but I couldn’t help myself and did the sides of the head.
Used some good old fashioned gravity to straighten out their backs and got these suckers placed. I’ve done applications like this several times now so I’ve got my systems down but it’s probably the most nervous I’ve been applying vinyl since the first time I did it. Turned out really well. Always going to have some minor imperfections but I’m really happy with the results.
CCE1BF40-AF8D-45FF-BB96-D0A36D706218 (resized).jpeg9943AFCB-216F-4DE4-B0B9-73B1709B7511 (resized).jpeg6AA43985-2B9C-446B-89EE-06E2B4431B22 (resized).jpegC8860E67-1835-4724-A742-6306EA92CCA9 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
While waiting for new side art to arrive I decided to install Stern slide rails into the cabinet to make servicing the game more easy. For anyone who might want to do this themselves the bolts are 11” from the bottom of the cabinet and the rear bolt is 14” from the back of the cabinet.
I also installed leg bolt brackets and cabinet protectors.
I threw the stern slide pivots on the diner playfield just to see how it would sit. Works perfectly. The old backboard fits perfectly. I had assumed I’d need to adjust the dimensions of the backboard but I guess not!
D25ED010-E51D-4BE2-8958-594F0EF5ED30 (resized).jpeg5C51C7E7-4050-4FEF-BAE4-EDFEBB0FE886 (resized).jpeg11E903A0-CDDB-436F-9341-F820B4A29961 (resized).jpegBB50EF86-4792-4318-8B8F-DC0CCE4742C0 (resized).jpegCouldn’t resist putting the front panel artwork on the cabinet. I should’ve told the artist to move the God Is An American tag further right to avoid the coin door but it doesn’t look too bad. Front panels are tough. Too many things to avoid to get much art on there. Kept some checker pattern as a nod.
8C696379-2095-4A20-B183-244523CA7006 (resized).jpegI want to vote blue in honor of Steve-O's hair, but the neon green looks like the VHS cover art so it feels most "right" to me...
HUGE, huge SLC Punk! fan here, and I can't believe I just stumbled on this thread. So amazing, great work. Hope I can flip this at a show someday!!!
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:Also I guess if you’re curious here is the whole lot.
[quoted image]
Quoted from reconsider59:HUGE, huge SLC Punk! fan here, and I can't believe I just stumbled on this thread. So amazing, great work. Hope I can flip this at a show someday!!!
Awesome! I’m hoping to be at expo next year. That will be the closest I’d get to New York probably. Plan on hitting the west coast shows too.
The armor is at the powder coater now. Should be done next week!
1 week later
Quoted from Mbecker:Hahaha love that
The wood screws are the real head scratcher. What was I trying to communicate to myself with this assortment of hardware????
looks like a lot of head hardware. I see the head latches - which would take 5 of those wood screws to secure. The two metal plates that sit on the bottom of the head to secure it to the cab with the 6 bolts. This looks mixed in with the 4 older style full-thread head securing bolts.. and a power filter cap from a pre 90's game? And there's two longer bolts with the metal bearings that should to secure the two head swivel brackets to the cabinet I believe.. the playfield would sit on the metal bearings on the inside of the cab? The single long shinier bolt looks like the securing bolt for the head-> cab connection .. although I think there's usually two of those? That leaves like 6 of those black bolts that are used either for securing head corner brackets, or for hardware like the coin door or lockdown reciever.
So got the armor back. Was aiming for a purple/blue that wasn’t too flashy. Came back darker and more purple than I expected but I like it! Nice and subtle but nice up close and in person. Started putting the cabinet together. It’s looking pretty good!
0FD4EE77-F089-4B2E-8252-576261F5DDC7 (resized).jpeg2D126AA1-12A4-4FFA-9438-DDC72BF1B13E (resized).jpeg621C509D-8588-415A-872C-6A88919EBF68 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from Mbecker:Dang!!! That looks sweet! What shelf width and cut depth did you go with for the inserts?
It varies a little bit on shelf width but roughly 1 mm to 2mm and depth I did 1/4 inch. I’ve never had to sand down inserts before so hopefully it’s not too much of a pain. There is a good 1 mm of plastic above the level of the wood.
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:It varies a little bit on shelf width but roughly 1 mm to 2mm and depth I did 1/4 inch. I’ve never had to sand down inserts before so hopefully it’s not too much of a pain. There is a good 1 mm of plastic above the level of the wood.
Thanks! I’ve got 1.7 in cad and was worried that might be too small but sounds like it should be fine.. I’m also concerned about the sanding .. but cutting them exact seems like a risk if one goes too low
Quoted from Mbecker:Thanks! I’ve got 1.7 in cad and was worried that might be too small but sounds like it should be fine.. I’m also concerned about the sanding .. but cutting them exact seems like a risk if one goes too low
Too low definitely seems worse. Sanding has to happen regardless because a lot the inserts have raised numbers on them. You didn’t have to sand your inserts the first time around?
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:Too low definitely seems worse. Sanding has to happen regardless because a lot the inserts have raised numbers on them. You didn’t have to sand your inserts the first time around?
Haven’t done it yet— but most of my inserts don’t have numbers if I remember correctly.
2 weeks later
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:In light of today’s Stern announcement.
…I was literally quoting this scene earlier today after the announcement.
(alone, to myself, in my kitchen, apropos of nothing other than the announcement, like a crazy person…)
Quoted from reconsider59:…I was literally quoting this scene earlier today after the announcement.
(alone, to myself, in my kitchen, apropos of nothing other than the announcement, like a crazy person…)
Lol. I really can’t believe we don’t have a single punk pin yet (no, Punk! doesn’t count). Punk and pinball are like pb&j.
So had a long holidays break from the project. Had guests staying in my pinball room so got absolutely nothing done until today!
Armed myself with some clear two part epoxy and dove in.
Process is simpler/easier than I made it out to be in my head. Basically just put epoxy on insert hole shelf, put insert in place, and clamp with wood blocks until it has had some time to set. I have about 15 minutes before moving on even though the package claimed five.
18108426-3339-46DC-8302-0FC12F756A75 (resized).jpegAlthough it wasn’t a difficult process it was a lengthy one. I only could do 2-4 inserts at a time depending on how closely they were positioned. Definitely suggest getting a deep throat clamp like I did. Harbor Freight has them for cheap. This is a 12” clamp. In hindsight I would have like two so that I could have done larger areas at once.
5 1/2 hours later I glued my final insert.
40FDA8BA-C1F2-4A75-A959-0D4093CECFB9 (resized).jpegB88CF007-A8A9-4839-AF11-FE0C7F4B27A7 (resized).jpegStill a little concerned about how sanding down the inserts will go. Most are perfect and under a mm above the wood but my three roll overs are sticking out a bit. A little over a mm according to my calipers. Here’s a comparison. Probably hard to see but I tried.
CCAAC3C0-68F1-4AF3-8673-4935C0161A2F (resized).jpegFBE74660-CB1F-4A1D-8DA6-6057608CC225 (resized).jpegSanded down the inserts today. Took roughly 3 hours. Took progress pics but it’s hard to tell from photos what was happening.
I’ll say that it wasn’t that big of a deal to sand down the inserts that stuck out of the playfield a little more than the others. It all took quite a bit of sanding to get it flat. I would suggest kind of focusing on a few inserts at a time. Get them close to even with the wood. Once everything was sanded down to the point that the sander couldn’t feel the edges I started sanding the whole thing rather than focusing on just inserts. I didn’t stick to one method. 3 hours is a long time to second guess yourself but everything came out awesome.
Once everything was flat I sanded everything up to 220 grit. There is still a haze on the plastics but the clear will fix that. I was told not to go finer so the clear has something to grab on the plastic.
A2318D11-96DE-458F-BDDC-CFA785E3F0F9 (resized).jpegBA86876B-DEE0-4AEB-8E39-8488EC715E6F (resized).jpegTook some close ups of the inserts so you can see that even in the Cnc playfield there are some holes that have a tiny gap and some that fit perfect. I’m guessing the clear will just fill these gaps in. Not too worried about it.
02D04015-80E1-45E7-B8D8-828525776104 (resized).jpeg61B13078-47E7-4D6B-B88A-0AC0503EDD30 (resized).jpegHad to add a couple of inset holes for some T nuts that will bolt the playfield slide hardware to the game. My woodworking skills have greatly improved since I started this project a year ago but I’m still happy to have the robot cut it next time.
This is the last thing I needed to get done before clear coat. Which I will start tomorrow assuming I can find a respirator.
D0911322-4161-42A1-AF36-326EB717241E (resized).jpegQuoted from bingopodcast:Looks awesome! What grit did you start with when sanding the inserts?
80 grit. Then once everything was nice and flat did a pass with 180 and then a pass with 220.
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