(Topic ID: 210780)

Sky Jump target #7 issue (help pls)


By spinal

1 year ago



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  • 18 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by HowardR
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#1 1 year ago

Would appreciate help thanks
as I've gone as far as I can at this point.

OK, so here are the clues:

Clue 1. The #7 drop target does not work (no sounds and no score for regardless of what lights are lit). I have checked that switch works.
Clue 2. The corresponding spot target to drop #7 does not work at all (no sound so score). I have checked that switch works.

So looking at schematic, these two are related and you can see directly next to each other (I verified wire colors).

Clue 3: targets 1-6 and corresponding related spots 1-6 all work in all circumstances. For me this rules out it being an issue with relays B or C (50 or 500pt relays).

Clue 4: occasionally, when red light is on #7 drop target spot and I drop target 6, it will erroneously score 5000 as though the red light was on 6. This leads me to believe that it has something to do with the multiplayer control unit.

However, looking at the schematic, I really can't see why the #7 spot target wouldn't work because it doesn't seem to need the multiplayer control unit to work.

Anyway confused newb trying to get past this

Any ideas?

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#2 1 year ago

I would focus on the multiplier control unit (second pic you posted). Look at wire colors associated with target 7. May be a loose solder connection or wire.

#3 1 year ago

On relay 7B is that solder tab for the orange green wire touching any other metal surface?

#4 1 year ago

Checked and it looks good - checked connections with meter too after I cleaned contacts.

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#5 1 year ago

Give the stepper unit in pic #2's rivets and contacts a good cleaning.

#6 1 year ago

The

Quoted from spinal:

Clue 2. The corresponding spot target to drop #7 does not work at all (no sound so score). I have checked that switch works.

So the yellow standup and drop target do not score. That eliminates the stepper from this part of the problem as that is only used to determine the target score multiplier.

All things point to the 7B switch or the wire from the yellow standup and drop target being the problem. There are three wires on that 7B switch. The Orange and Green wires are commoned to the other switches on the bank and since those work they can be eliminated. That leaves the OR-GR wire (which looks like Yellow - Green in the pic). I would check continuity of that wire from 7B switch back to the standup and drop target.

Please post some pics of the #7 drop target switch and corresponding yellow standup switch.

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#7 1 year ago

Following this topic so I can learn how to troubleshoot EM issues using the schematics.

#8 1 year ago

Makes sense woz - much appreciated!! I had cleaned and checked 7B as well as the spot target and was confused as to how both the spot and drop wouldn't be working because of multiplier control unit. No loose wires either so had no idea.

So that orange-green wire runs from 7B to the spot and then from spot to drop7. First I checked continuity from drop to spot and it was fine.

Then checked continuity from 7B to spot and... Nothing! Wow, would have never thought wires could break somehow - didn't even think of that.

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So jumpered it and now spot and target7 works!
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Thanks so much for everyone's input - one more problem resolved on my "100% working" pin (or so as it was called when I bought it).

#9 1 year ago

Glad you found the problem! Would be nice to know where the wire is actually broken then you may be able to fix it without adding non-factory wire.

I would check under the metal bar circled on the pic below.

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#10 1 year ago
Quoted from woz:

Glad you found the problem! Would be nice to know where the wire is actually broken then you may be able to fix it without adding non-factory wire.
I would check under the metal bar circled on the pic below.

You could hook one side of an ohmmeter to the wire's end, and the other side of the ohmmeter to a safety pin. Then poke the wire with the safety pin at various places to narrow down on where the wire is broken.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from HowardR:

You could hook one side of an ohmmeter to the wire's end, and the other side of the ohmmeter to a safety pin. Then poke the wire with the safety pin at various places to narrow down on where the wire is broken.

What a great idea...the advantage of cloth covered wire!

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from woz:

What a great idea...the advantage of cloth covered wire!

Thanks for the upvote, woz !

#13 1 year ago

Yes that was going to be my next question - how to repair this faulty wire. Great idea about using safety pin - will give a try and report back here.

I'm assuming one cannot buy matching wires right? (don't think PBR had it).

#14 1 year ago

Do a search. Here's one place, where you apparently have to specify that you do not want the wire lacquered: http://www.narragansettreproductions.com/general-supplies-primary-copper-wire.html

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from spinal:

Yes that was going to be my next question - how to repair this faulty wire. Great idea about using safety pin - will give a try and report back here.
I'm assuming one cannot buy matching wires right? (don't think PBR had it).

Find someone with a parts game and first see if you can find a strand of the cover you are looking for. Otherwise just use something close.

#16 1 year ago

I've never tried this but you might try a green marker on an orange wire.

#17 1 year ago

Great tip HowardR thanks!

I used a pin I found and checked above and below metal bar and there was no continuity below - woz circled the exact spot above (wow! You guys are good!). Verified on other side that this is only break.

So this pin idea is really fantastic - very easy to just touch into wire to find exactly where break is. Two pins have been added to my toolbox!

So after finding break, pulled out wire and definately broken exactly on that spot.

I'll need a bit of wire to connect there - anyone know what guage of wire this is? (I don't have any spare wire so have to buy something)

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#18 1 year ago
Quoted from spinal:

... what guage of wire this is? ...

14 gauge wire is good for 15 amps (LTG) so I wouldn't go any smaller than that.

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