(Topic ID: 265453)

Skill Roll remake

By dudah

3 years ago


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  • 360 posts
  • 55 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by RCA1
  • Topic is favorited by 67 Pinsiders

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#103 3 years ago

cool project, following

1 month later
#112 3 years ago

for the switch areas, route a small engrave and then edge light and they will all glow and possible backlight with a different colour when a switch is activated

3 weeks later
#135 3 years ago

The cutter is important as some are Straight flute, spiral up or down cut which all determines the cut

https://www.endmill.com.au/cnc-router-bits/

as for speed about 1500mm per min or 60" per min based on the diameter and if the cutter is worn or cutter type is not ideal you may need to low the feed rate down a little more.

Also on smaller cutters best to not go deeper than the diameter of the cutters on each pass (1/4" dia cutter = max 1/4" max depth per cut) with the last pass being a cleanup pass.

#148 3 years ago

while you are making progress, what are the cutters your using - type, diameter, cut speed etc as you could save yourself alot of work. Also what direction are you going when pocketing and cutting outer shapes?

#150 3 years ago

- if possible crank the spindle speed up to about 18000rpm if possible, 5000rpm is a bit slow and will contribute to the burring especially if you are pushing the cutter at 160 in/mm
- 1/4" cutter is fine
- use a compression up and down cutter if possible as will give real nice top and bottom finishes
- lead in and outs is better for laser or if you are cutting out small circles etc so they don't fly off and break cutters etc - just make sure the final depth pass is the cleanup pass to cleanup the full depth
- plunge step down is fine

I reckon if you can crank up the spindle speed the end result will improve alot, hope that helps

FeedsandSpeeds.pdfFeedsandSpeeds.pdf

2 weeks later
#170 3 years ago

you are doing well, and the number one is you made it so a huge accomplishment, but remember if you going to do go into production and make a few units. There are savings on materials as you would buy in bulk but especially in your time. eg like the black plexi laser cutting you would have 10 of the same shapes next to each other saving routing time etc, buy a few of the correct cutters and cleanup time of the timber improves, etc.

looking great

#183 3 years ago

looking good .........

3 weeks later
#196 3 years ago

you are making good progress but don't think the vinyl is the best approach especially if you plan on making and selling a few. You would be better off to undercoat the mdf to seal followed with a white base coat to give the vinyl to stick to, OR instead of the yellow vinyl maybe paint it.

#205 3 years ago

generally hammertone is a one coat only and preferably via spray gun and not a roller as spray will be a little smoother and show the colour differences, also a black base coat aids in better end results (it does on steel work)

also look out for vinyl stretching if you have a little going into the grooves as it may pull and stretch with some undesirable results

sorry not meaning to pick rather give you some tips, but awesome job performing every step of the process

#207 3 years ago

here is a thought for approaching the yellow panel - a series of acrylic panels

front panel (glass or acrylic)
/ coin gap + black coin guides (coin gap and clear panel thickness)
/ clear panel with slots for the black coin guides
/ yellow acrylic panel with decals on it (this then protects the decals and attach to the yellow acrylic)

going this way means no painting, everything looks glossy and just sandwiches together

Green-cast2 (resized).jpgGreen-cast2 (resized).jpg

#216 3 years ago

the cabinet looks good and consistant - nice work

also didn't think the vinyl would stick to raw mdf - it needs a coat of semi gloss and then a very light sand, remove dust and then stick on vinyl but paint will be much better

1 week later
#230 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Not a ton of progress over here:
Painted the other side the other day, cabinet is ready to clear if I want to. It looks pretty dang good as is though.
I changed my thought with the oak - I'm going to get some new boards, maybe splurge on maple.
What I measured was 2.75", the "1x3" red oak I got from menards is actually 2.5.
Going to get the "1x4" (3.5) and rip it down to the proper 2.75.
That tiny 1/4" extrapolated over the top, bottom, and tray oak pieces ultimately causes a .75" gap.
The holes for the sensors have a little bit of a gap between the wood and the sensor. Not good. It would've worked with the vinyl but not this.
It's because the sensor head is .4" and the thread right below it is .45" - so .025" all the way around.
A vinyl coverup is a close color match, but not close enough.
I see two paths:
1. Find something to fill in the gap - wrap it in masking tape? All I need it for is to take paint and look decent before the clear.
2. Sand the metal thread off (PITA x30 sensors), cut a new playfield that just has .4" sensor holes
Fall is in full effect in Chicago, it's only a matter of time until it's too cold to shoot the clear.
Not opposed to having a non-cleared PF to test over the winter and maybe finalize one in the spring.
Autodesk also recently announced that they're pulling a ton of features from the free Fusion360 license. A lot of people are pissed but what can ya do (other than buy a license). Kind of want to cut an extra playfield while I still can. Also, make a backup of the G-code for any future playfields.
Took the week after next off of work, hoping to get a bunch of progress then.
[quoted image]

as long as they are not like solidworks that costs over $3k USD

draftsight was the 2d cad which was free for 12-15 years and now an annual fee for $100 base and steps up - they get people addicted and then charge and if you don't keep paying after a year you no longer can access.

1 week later
#240 3 years ago

looking good

remember with time, timber will darken naturally as well

3 months later
#328 3 years ago

really nice work, congrats

2 months later
#339 2 years ago

Well done, this is looking so professionally done and coming together very nicely..

just a question for you out of curiousity:

is the surface that coin runs in front of and against - is this vertical or tilted back?

if tilted how many degrees would it be?

I have never played one or seen one in the wild so very curious.

thanks in advance

#341 2 years ago

thanks dudah

ok I did not expect that much even though that isn't alot if you know what I mean

1 year later
#356 1 year ago

great progress, looks awesome and love the integration with the coin mech

can I ask - what is the rough size of the yellow coin playfield that the coin rolls around ? - looks to be about 24" x 30" (600 x 750mm)

#358 1 year ago
Quoted from edward472:

Good eye. It's about 20"x30"

thanks, just a lucky guess, if it wasn't for one of the photos of a guy next to one I would of thought slightly bigger

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