(Topic ID: 265453)

Skill Roll remake

By dudah

3 years ago


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  • 360 posts
  • 55 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by RCA1
  • Topic is favorited by 67 Pinsiders

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There are 360 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 8.
#251 3 years ago

We got lucky with a 70-ish degree day, with maybe one or two left in the season, so today is clear day!
I've been going over my plan in my head for weeks, time to make it happen.
Spent the morning cutting out the insert decals.
Got some Cricut vinyl material from Jo-Ann (buy 2 get 1 free right now).
For the smaller stuff, the Cricut vinyl is MUCH better - much easier to weed, much better adhesion.
The lower right decal was VERY difficult to weed everything, transfer it, and get it all to line up.

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#252 3 years ago

Inserts in! About 30 minutes.
Didn't compensate the decal for the different position of everything, d'oh!
I really like the visual of the full border on the decal, so will try to make another real quick.
If not, I'll just trim off the excess of this one.

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#253 3 years ago

Tack cloth, naptha, a light coat, 15 minutes, then a medium coat, then put on the insert decals (took 30 min), and another light coat!
Going to put a heavy one down next!
I put back up my shanty spray booth with a box fan venting outside the garage.
Nothing fancy but gets the job done well!

The transfer tape was sticking to the playfield and leaving a minor mark, hoping the next coat fills it in.
I went back and trimmed down all the pieces to minimize the effect.
Applied them with a thin metal pick and wearing nitrile gloves.
Transferring the vinyl to the transfer tape takes a few seconds per piece.

Loving the SprayMax so far, it's only takes a minute to suit up (Tyvek suit, swim goggles, nitrile gloves, respirator with new vapor cartridges).
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#254 3 years ago

Used the rest of the can on a heavy coat, looks great!
There are a couple imperfections - 2 little pieces of hair or dust and one smudge from the transfer tape.
Not flawless but not a huge deal either.
The inserts/levels are completely level, but considering this is a vertical playfield I'm guessing it'll be fine!
There is

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#255 3 years ago

Checked this morning. The clear for the most part looks good!
There are some defects in the clear - little bubbles, a few pieces of air, and the mark from the transfer tape.
While the clear is on there and nice, it's far from the "sheet of glass" effect I was hoping for.
I still have another can of SprayMax.
Thinking let this dry for a few days, wet sand and hope to get rid of the blemishes, reapply the other can.

In hindsight, I probably should have stopped and let the thin coats with defects dry and sand them then.
I want this to look as good as it can, but I also don't want to get stopped for weeks and invest a ton of time and effort fixing these minor blemishes.

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#256 3 years ago

Whipped up a serial number stamp to 3D print.
Matched the font and spacing to the one I took notes from.
There were 1500 units produced, starting at 1000 (looking at IPSND), so this will be unit 1501/serial 2501

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#257 3 years ago

I'm interested in Serial # 2502...wink wink

#258 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I'm interested in Serial # 2502...wink wink

I've been thinking about production this whole time.
I got a TON of interest which I feel very grateful that so many people love what I'm doing.

I'd like to eliminate any false expectations.
From the time/effort I've invested so far, there's no way I could produce complete units in a way that's fair compensation for my time and not cost the customer a silly amount of money.
There's simply too much time/labor for one guy to do.
I'm only so good of a woodworker (and a lackluster clearcoater) and would not want to sell a product that wasn't as good or better than the factory original.
If my free time greatly expands and my other life responsibilities minimize down the line (unlikely), I'd consider making a very small run (5 units?)

The good news is I love free information and sharing within the hobby.
I'm leaning towards making everything open source and giving away all the files (artwork, models, plans, schematics) once the project is complete.

I know most don't have the same tools or know-how I do so still thinking of offering up a bare-bones kit - complete playfield (not clearcoated), knobs/rods/flickers, then you use the aforementioned open source plans and you build your own.
This would be a quick/easy turnaround from me, then you can build your cabinet however you wish.
The unknown factor at this point is what time/cost it will take to do the metal knobs/rods/flickers. Unfortunately, I don't know what I don't know.
TBD.

#259 3 years ago

Sensors are installed, leveled and labeled.
Despite all my OCD delaying this project with how the sensors look and the minor playfield defects, I don't care, just pushing forward!

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10
#260 3 years ago

A couple days ago I put a second coat of the water based "triple thick" varnish. It's pretty nice. The single coat was pretty nice but I'm glad I did the second.

Kreg screwed the sides to the bottom to make sure they're flush with each other at the edges.
Threw those 3 pieces in the cabinet and kreg screwed it 4 times on each side, very solid!
Got the metal glass retaining trim on and popped in the glass and coin door, sweet!

All this time prior has been doing a million separate things, I'm really enjoying this part!

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#261 3 years ago

Damnnnnn that thing looks amazing

#262 3 years ago

Looking great. Really enjoy watching your progress.

#263 3 years ago

Don’t think I mentioned I plan to include this chime box I found in a warehouse.
Shifting gears and thinking how everything’s gonna get wired, nothing crazy, but certainly wanted to be mindful of strategic wire runs. Ordered a bigger 12V supply to accommodate the RGBWW LED strips I also just bought

REALLY having fun now

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#264 3 years ago

Just wondering- did you figure out a way to keep track of coins that drop out the lower holes? To keep people from entering more than one coin.

#265 3 years ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

Just wondering- did you figure out a way to keep track of coins that drop out the lower holes? To keep people from entering more than one coin.

Controlling the lockout coil on the coin mech via the arduino.
The Chinese modern coin mech is cool, and has the coil built in, but would require being mounted on the side of the game.
I’m going to worry about it later, but I’m going to shoot for using an original coin mech and making the metal Art Deco coin acceptor at the top.

#266 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Controlling the lockout coil on the coin mech via the arduino.

Yes, you will need the lockout on the coin mech. But when the coin drops out the drain holes(last three shots), no switches get triggered. What will trigger the coil to release?
It would be a cool (and headache saving) feature that the original didn’t have. I was thinking a proximity switch in the bottom of the coin funnel leading into the coinbox.
This build is amazing! Keep the pics coming!

#267 3 years ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

Yes, you will need the lockout on the coin mech. But when the coin drops out the drain holes(last three shots), no switches get triggered. What will trigger the coil to release?
It would be a cool (and headache saving) feature that the original didn’t have. I was thinking a proximity switch in the bottom of the coin funnel leading into the coinbox.
This build is amazing! Keep the pics coming!

Good point! I don't have my code/notes in front of me but I believe I accounted for an extra proximity sensor in the drain chute for that.
With the read range of the sensors I may have to craft up something.
I decided to build it as I go in this respect, which is why there's no hole for the coin box, rod holes, etc.

10
#268 3 years ago

Taking the weekend off in Door County WI and visited the only on location skill roll I know of. 100-400 lamps were out but the rest worked fine, I got a star twice!

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#269 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Taking the weekend off in Door County WI and visited the only on location skill roll I know of. 100-400 lamps were out but the rest worked fine, I got a star twice!
[quoted image]

Sick jacket.

#270 3 years ago

Just joined the club. Found one in a nice gentlemen’s house. Been there the last 40 years. Been following the above and it looks awesome.

#271 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

From the time/effort I've invested so far, there's no way I could produce complete units in a way that's fair compensation for my time and not cost the customer a silly amount of money.
There's simply too much time/labor for one guy to do.
I'm only so good of a woodworker (and a lackluster clearcoater) and would not want to sell a product that wasn't as good or better than the factory original.
If my free time greatly expands and my other life responsibilities minimize down the line (unlikely), I'd consider making a very small run (5 units?)

Have you considered enlisting help from other pinsiders in the chicago area? I mean Terry managed to make those scoregasm machines with a group of about 8 people. Time, space to build, and masking up with others around seem to be the biggest challenges.

#272 3 years ago

Drilled some screw holes in the playfield
Lined the playfield up and continued drilling through the holes to the oak bracket
Pulled off the oak bracket and smacked in some T-nuts
Reassembled and mounted the playfield!

Lesson learned - I was considering having everything pre drilled, but that would be a nightmare as things don't always line up 100%. It's better to just screw the holes and assemble everything as I go. Using screws to secure everything (no glue) is plenty of strength with the ability to take everything apart if I really wanted to.

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#273 3 years ago

You’re almost there!

#274 3 years ago

Spent nearly 2 hours (again) gluing on the track, it's very tedious.
The hot glue gun is the best method.
Nitrile glove on one hand to prevent burns.
Some parts had a deep engraving where the track goes, there I put the glue in the engraving.
Some had a very shallow or non-existant engraving, for those I put it on the track and adhered best I could.
Need enough glue to get it to stick, but not too much so it oozes out the side.
I did a pretty good job, but I'm going to clean up the excess with a razor.

While there are some pieces that are almost the same size, it's very linear to figure out what piece goes where.
Lined up the plexi and it looks great! Need to get some small rubber washers to secure it.
Not a ton of clearance between the plexi and the track for the flicker, may have to change it up when I get there.

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#275 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Spent nearly 2 hours (again) gluing on the track, it's very tedious.
The hot glue gun is the best method.

That's fine short term, but I would consider some 2-part epoxy for the final version. Over time hot glue will deteriorate.

#276 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Spent nearly 2 hours (again) gluing on the track, it's very tedious.
The hot glue gun is the best method.
Nitrile glove on one hand to prevent burns.
Some parts had a deep engraving where the track goes, there I put the glue in the engraving.
Some had a very shallow or non-existant engraving, for those I put it on the track and adhered best I could.
Need enough glue to get it to stick, but not too much so it oozes out the side.
I did a pretty good job, but I'm going to clean up the excess with a razor.
While there are some pieces that are almost the same size, it's very linear to figure out what piece goes where.
Lined up the plexi and it looks great! Need to get some small rubber washers to secure it.
Not a ton of clearance between the plexi and the track for the flicker, may have to change it up when I get there.
[quoted image][quoted image]

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1 month later
#277 3 years ago

So.....update

#278 3 years ago

I've certainly lost some steam on this project. Traveling for work, busy at work, getting ready for winter, etc. But also I recently acquired a few EM arcade projects that I've been bringing into the house in preparation for winter. They all "just needed a few small things to be 100%" so I've been spending free time across too many projects and this has been on the back burner.

I'm also at the point where I need to drill the side rails for the flicker rods. I want to make sure 1000% that everything is lined up correctly before I do so so that's been scaring me away a bit. Certainly still on my radar, hoping to get some more progress soon!

#279 3 years ago

Wow

#280 3 years ago

have you decided if you'll be selling these? I would love to be able to point to you when people ask to buy mine

#281 3 years ago
Quoted from cait001:

have you decided if you'll be selling these? I would love to be able to point to you when people ask to buy mine

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/skill-roll-remake/page/6#post-5908036

#282 3 years ago

Let's get this thing flicking!

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#283 3 years ago

Borrowed my buddy's Ender to get some better prototyping.
While mine works, it's VERY old, the Ender has much better precision and double the print volume.
Not sure what I'll need it for but it looks cool.

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#284 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Borrowed my buddy's Ender to get some better prototyping.
While mine works, it's VERY old, the Ender has much better precision and double the print volume.
Not sure what I'll need it for but it looks cool.
[quoted image]

You have really good friends.

#285 3 years ago

I love the Ender so much, I pulled the trigger on a V2 for myself!
In the meantime, fixed the way the knobs interlock with the shafts.

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#286 3 years ago

Re-did this, it's much more accurate now.

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#287 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I love the Ender so much, I pulled the trigger on a V2 for myself!
In the meantime, fixed the way the knobs interlock with the shafts.
[quoted image]

Just curious why you wouldn't put the flat on the shaft instead of removing the middle? I'd be concerned that the shaft engagement would potentially snap.

#288 3 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Just curious why you wouldn't put the flat on the shaft instead of removing the middle? I'd be concerned that the shaft engagement would potentially snap.

In the interest of making reproduction quality parts, these match it.
If/when I machine these out, it'd be cool to have them be compatible with original games.

That being said, I'm not opposed to updating the design for this century.
I was considering an interlocking gear pattern.
I feel like I'm on the verge of learning a lot of how to make the flicking system work well/design changes, so we will see...

#289 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I love the Ender so much, I pulled the trigger on a V2 for myself!

Very nice, I have one of those myself. You'll be very happy with it.

#290 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Re-did this, it's much more accurate now.
[quoted image]

If you're not done, disregard. The hump on each end is suppose to be thinner than the rest of the casting. The only reason I mention this is I've seen a couple of guys wanting this part reproduced, and this is the closest model I've seen

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#291 3 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

If you're not done, disregard. The hump on each end is suppose to be thinner than the rest of the casting. The only reason I mention this is I've seen a couple of guys wanting this part reproduced, and this is the closest model I've seen
[quoted image]

Thanks for clarification! It was a late night, I'll update!

#292 3 years ago

Fixed! Updated a few small other things.

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#293 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Fixed! Updated a few small other things.[quoted image]

giphy.gifgiphy.gif
#294 3 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

If you're not done, disregard. The hump on each end is suppose to be thinner than the rest of the casting. The only reason I mention this is I've seen a couple of guys wanting this part reproduced, and this is the closest model I've seen
[quoted image]

Model as in not original or a picture of the original and the one the op is working on?

Ya, I’d love a repro, mine is a Chinese one off eBay that I’ve chopped up and it drops a nickel down but it isn’t pretty

#295 3 years ago

Mine's far from a true repro. Ben was kind enough to send me some measurements from his but I just made mine off of rough measurements. I threw in the bottom coin chute/reject button/mounting hole. If anyone wants to get nuts with calipers and send me all the measurements I can try to make a 100% compatible repro. Otherwise, I'll give anyone the current model and it will probably work!

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#296 3 years ago
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#297 3 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Mine's far from a true repro. Ben was kind enough to send me some measurements from his but I just made mine off of rough measurements. I threw in the bottom coin chute/reject button/mounting hole. If anyone wants to get nuts with calipers and send me all the measurements I can try to make a 100% compatible repro. Otherwise, I'll give anyone the current model and it will probably work!
[quoted image]

Anyone want me to get nuts with my calipers?

#298 3 years ago
Quoted from edward472:

Anyone want me to get nuts with my calipers?

I do! I do!

#299 3 years ago

2.0

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#300 3 years ago

Such a cool project, I'm into it. Following.

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