New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 265453)

Skill Roll remake


By dudah

7 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 276 posts
  • 46 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by docquest
  • Topic is favorited by 57 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 190 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

tenor-8.gif
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
602DB62F-E400-4937-8FA0-1B9AFB47D862 (resized).jpeg
BC3E62EB-FC12-4FF3-B186-FD8EEBC6DA36 (resized).jpeg
AC5201AA-B6B4-48CD-8336-271F9B79E701 (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png

There are 276 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 6.
#201 57 days ago

Thanks for the input, all.
I'll give the vinyl a shot with a razor.
I was also planning to leave a little excess inside the track recess so that when I put the track in it would cover the edge of the vinyl.

I like the idea of a laminate, but don't know how well a large piece would route out on the CNC.

I've gotten real good results before with MDF/prime/sand/paint/sand/paint.
I worry about wear from the coin in the long term.
I question how well wax would apply/hold up to just paint.
I'm scared as hell to spray 2PAC in my garage and would like to avoid $300 for someone to do it for me.
I've considered spraying Spraymax out in the alley to clear the cabinet and playfield but wouldn't want all my efforts ruined by a bug or speck of debris.

#202 57 days ago

The cabinet hammered finish looks pretty great, but I noticed as I was applying the second coat that it thickens up VERY quickly!
There's a little bit of texture sticking out that I don't care for (but also isn't a big deal).
I forgot to paint the back door so may knock it down with the sander and put another coat on when I'm painting again.
Kinda wanna just move on.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#203 57 days ago

did you get or make stencils for the cab?

#204 57 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

did you get or make stencils for the cab?

I CNC’d stencils from hardboard. I tested them on the last page and the overspray is just right.

#205 57 days ago

generally hammertone is a one coat only and preferably via spray gun and not a roller as spray will be a little smoother and show the colour differences, also a black base coat aids in better end results (it does on steel work)

also look out for vinyl stretching if you have a little going into the grooves as it may pull and stretch with some undesirable results

sorry not meaning to pick rather give you some tips, but awesome job performing every step of the process

#206 57 days ago
Quoted from swinks:

generally hammertone is a one coat only and preferably via spray gun and not a roller as spray will be a little smoother and show the colour differences, also a black base coat aids in better end results (it does on steel work)
also look out for vinyl stretching if you have a little going into the grooves as it may pull and stretch with some undesirable results
sorry not meaning to pick rather give you some tips, but awesome job performing every step of the process

I love constructive criticism! Appreciated!

The directions on the (Rustoleum) can was to paint it, let it dry at least 30 minutes, then put another coat on. It was very specific that the second coat had to be laid down within 4 hours of the first coat, or after 7 days! For the first coat, I used a pretty thick mop. The second coat I used a thinner 3/8" mop. In hindsight, reversing may have been better. Doing some Googling before hand, people had no issues with the roller.

Good point on the vinyl. It's definitely low quality. I was also planning on putting slits in the corners so it's more of a bent over than being stretched by the track.

#207 57 days ago

here is a thought for approaching the yellow panel - a series of acrylic panels

front panel (glass or acrylic)
/ coin gap + black coin guides (coin gap and clear panel thickness)
/ clear panel with slots for the black coin guides
/ yellow acrylic panel with decals on it (this then protects the decals and attach to the yellow acrylic)

going this way means no painting, everything looks glossy and just sandwiches together

Green-cast2 (resized).jpg

#208 56 days ago

What about like a formica w/ yellow laminate on it? almost like a thin counter top

#209 55 days ago

Formica - no elegant way to route the track/hole pattern on the CNC
Acrylic - I will see what my local supplier has. It could be ideal if I can get it thin enough. Super thin might be able to read the coins without cutting holes in it.

#210 55 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

Formica - no elegant way to route the track/hole pattern on the CNC
Acrylic - I will see what my local supplier has. It could be ideal if I can get it thin enough. Super thin might be able to read the coins without cutting holes in it.

Are you dead set on routing? Not trying to be critical. Seems like youve got these awesome machines at your hackerspace that you are excited to use,but you may be overcomplicating the project by looking for reasons to use them. You could just drill holes in the tracks and nail them in like the original game.

#211 55 days ago
Quoted from edward472:

Are you dead set on routing? Not trying to be critical. Seems like youve got these awesome machines at your hackerspace that you are excited to use,but you may be overcomplicating the project by looking for reasons to use them. You could just drill holes in the tracks and nail them in like the original game.

Fair point.
I was using the routed path on the playfield to perfectly align the track pieces.
The idea with using fancy tools is that I use the same design file to easily and cheaply make each piece of the playfield (playfield, track, plexi cover) with great precision.
I worry about the physics of the coin hitting the top, clearing gaps, and how it will flick so wanted to keep the track as close to the original as possible.
Got a few options, the vinyl already arrived so will give it a shot in the next few days.
I still have the painted first version with the track, considering rigging up a test machine to see how the paint wears over time.

#212 55 days ago

I could help you with clearcoating if you want to go that route. Since you are not far from me. I have some test playfields done we could run some tests to see if a quarter would scratch them over time or not.

#213 55 days ago

For what it is worth-
When I first got my Skill-Roll, it came with a couple hundred Indian head nickels. The old nickels were worn and cool. I set them to the side and promptly put in a couple hundred brand new shiny nickels straight from the mint.
My machine is in amazing shape but I noticed the clear plastic was wearing and it was from the new nickels. The new nickels had sharp edges... I threw the old worn nickels in my tumbler and cleaned them all up. Then put the old ones back in the machine. Some one a long time ago had thought filling the machine with Indian head nickels was cool and it really helped save the machine from wear.
When you figure out what you are going to use for covering I suggest using some old, worn quarters...

#214 55 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

Fair point.
I was using the routed path on the playfield to perfectly align the track pieces.
The idea with using fancy tools is that I use the same design file to easily and cheaply make each piece of the playfield (playfield, track, plexi cover) with great precision.
I worry about the physics of the coin hitting the top, clearing gaps, and how it will flick so wanted to keep the track as close to the original as possible.
Got a few options, the vinyl already arrived so will give it a shot in the next few days.
I still have the painted first version with the track, considering rigging up a test machine to see how the paint wears over time.

You could always cut the piece that you have the recessed sections all the way through and use that as a template to line up the track pieces. Put some feet on it for spacers, glue your track pieces down and then lift it off.

#215 51 days ago

I sanded down the whole cabinet and put another coat on.
While there is some paint off the surface, it's much less than the first time.
The hammered paint its tricky to get right. I found putting a very wet coat on and then very lightly going over it again is the best technique.
Next time I'd try a less fluffy roller.
Moving on to keep this project going.

The vinyl is now out of the scope, I got my new stuff in and quickly applied it and cut out a few inserts. It was way too challenging to follow the fine curve of the track. Also, after a couple days it wasn't adhering well on one corner. The MDF is just too smooth to grip.
Back to painting!

I'm revisiting using the SprayMax 2k for the cabinet and playfield.
I still have a makeshift paint booth in my garage from past projects.
Also have some new respirator filters.
It's in a can so cleanup and getting away from the fumes is quick and easy.
And the result will likely be sick.
Bought a 2 pack on Amazon for $43!

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#216 51 days ago

the cabinet looks good and consistant - nice work

also didn't think the vinyl would stick to raw mdf - it needs a coat of semi gloss and then a very light sand, remove dust and then stick on vinyl but paint will be much better

#217 51 days ago

Very happy with this! Can’t wait to get the clear!

6AEC546C-6D13-4D85-9B7C-D0159C3E8A78 (resized).jpeg
#218 50 days ago

Still need to print a few more sensor holders.
Did a test spray on a sensor to see how well the paint will adhere to the plastic.
Letting it bake in the sun for a day should be a good test.
Assuming it works out I'll put them all in and make them flush then another coat of yellow on the playfield/sensors.

Need to do some more research on the Spraymax 2K today.
My plan for the scoring inserts was to have vinyl cutouts on the inserts and clear over those.
Since it doesn't react with waterslide decals I imagine I won't have any issues.
Anyone think the thickness of the vinyl will come through in the final clear coat? Or will it all even out and be one flat beautiful surface?

pasted_image (resized).png
#219 50 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

Still need to print a few more sensor holders.
Did a test spray on a sensor to see how well the paint will adhere to the plastic.
Letting it bake in the sun for a day should be a good test.
Assuming it works out I'll put them all in and make them flush then another coat of yellow on the playfield/sensors.
Need to do some more research on the Spraymax 2K today.
My plan for the scoring inserts was to have vinyl cutouts on the inserts and clear over those.
Since it doesn't react with waterslide decals I imagine I won't have any issues.
Anyone think the thickness of the vinyl will come through in the final clear coat? Or will it all even out and be one flat beautiful surface?
[quoted image]

Check out this guys restore https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration

All of his restores he does the cabinet using vinyl decals and clears over them.

#220 50 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

Still need to print a few more sensor holders.
Did a test spray on a sensor to see how well the paint will adhere to the plastic.
Letting it bake in the sun for a day should be a good test.

If you are concerned, I would recommend using an adhesion promoter. Nothing fancy, just something like Rustoleum or Dupli-Color Adhesion promoter

#221 50 days ago

Approved! Very pleased the paint on the plastic was dry after an hour

DDCD0FCF-B569-46AC-8298-0C404B4A17CB (resized).jpeg
#222 50 days ago

It's funny how in your (my) mind "just laying down the stencil and spraying" is so easy.
You (I) always forget the 20 minutes of prep and masking it takes before the 2 minutes of spraying.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#223 50 days ago

Well now we're getting somewhere!
Had a little bleed, but not bad.
I failed to perfectly line up the yellow along the red, but will just go back and make the left lines a little thicker when I do touchups.
I love the overspray look of the stencils, but the hardwood is a pain to line up.
Also, keeping the stencil flat against the cabinet is a challenge. I wore a nitrile glove and kept pressure down as I was spraying the edges.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#224 50 days ago

Had enough yellow left to do one side.
I recall I made the bottom of the stencil level with the bottom of the side so lining it up was pretty easy, just needed some tape to hold the ends down.
I still used my glove/hold down the piece you're spraying.
One quick spritz holding the top/spraying the top, same for the bottom/bottom, fill in any missing.
Went quick and easy!
Still not perfect, but touchups are already happening anyways.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#225 50 days ago

In hindsight, the side yellow should match up with the front yellow. Oh well, too late now! Still very happy with how it looks.

#226 50 days ago

exciting progress!

#227 49 days ago

Amazing on the paint job.
Really looks nice!

#228 49 days ago

Picked up the glass.
Started 3D printing the brackets for the LED's.
Sanded the edges and faces of 25 inserts.
It's a BIG pain, probably gonna have a blister on my finger. Got 'em all done in 82 minutes (woof).
Sanded in front of my desk and watched Weird Science!
Sand edge on 120, sand face on 120/200/300/400.
Had a paper towel soaked in alcohol to clean up.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
1 week later
#229 38 days ago

Not a ton of progress over here:
Painted the other side the other day, cabinet is ready to clear if I want to. It looks pretty dang good as is though.
I changed my thought with the oak - I'm going to get some new boards, maybe splurge on maple.

What I measured was 2.75", the "1x3" red oak I got from menards is actually 2.5.
Going to get the "1x4" (3.5) and rip it down to the proper 2.75.
That tiny 1/4" extrapolated over the top, bottom, and tray oak pieces ultimately causes a .75" gap.

The holes for the sensors have a little bit of a gap between the wood and the sensor. Not good. It would've worked with the vinyl but not this.
It's because the sensor head is .4" and the thread right below it is .45" - so .025" all the way around.
A vinyl coverup is a close color match, but not close enough.
I see two paths:

1. Find something to fill in the gap - wrap it in masking tape? All I need it for is to take paint and look decent before the clear.

2. Sand the metal thread off (PITA x30 sensors), cut a new playfield that just has .4" sensor holes

Fall is in full effect in Chicago, it's only a matter of time until it's too cold to shoot the clear.
Not opposed to having a non-cleared PF to test over the winter and maybe finalize one in the spring.

Autodesk also recently announced that they're pulling a ton of features from the free Fusion360 license. A lot of people are pissed but what can ya do (other than buy a license). Kind of want to cut an extra playfield while I still can. Also, make a backup of the G-code for any future playfields.

Took the week after next off of work, hoping to get a bunch of progress then.

pasted_image (resized).png
#230 38 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

Not a ton of progress over here:
Painted the other side the other day, cabinet is ready to clear if I want to. It looks pretty dang good as is though.
I changed my thought with the oak - I'm going to get some new boards, maybe splurge on maple.
What I measured was 2.75", the "1x3" red oak I got from menards is actually 2.5.
Going to get the "1x4" (3.5) and rip it down to the proper 2.75.
That tiny 1/4" extrapolated over the top, bottom, and tray oak pieces ultimately causes a .75" gap.
The holes for the sensors have a little bit of a gap between the wood and the sensor. Not good. It would've worked with the vinyl but not this.
It's because the sensor head is .4" and the thread right below it is .45" - so .025" all the way around.
A vinyl coverup is a close color match, but not close enough.
I see two paths:
1. Find something to fill in the gap - wrap it in masking tape? All I need it for is to take paint and look decent before the clear.
2. Sand the metal thread off (PITA x30 sensors), cut a new playfield that just has .4" sensor holes
Fall is in full effect in Chicago, it's only a matter of time until it's too cold to shoot the clear.
Not opposed to having a non-cleared PF to test over the winter and maybe finalize one in the spring.
Autodesk also recently announced that they're pulling a ton of features from the free Fusion360 license. A lot of people are pissed but what can ya do (other than buy a license). Kind of want to cut an extra playfield while I still can. Also, make a backup of the G-code for any future playfields.
Took the week after next off of work, hoping to get a bunch of progress then.
[quoted image]

as long as they are not like solidworks that costs over $3k USD

draftsight was the 2d cad which was free for 12-15 years and now an annual fee for $100 base and steps up - they get people addicted and then charge and if you don't keep paying after a year you no longer can access.

#231 37 days ago

After some thought, the gap above isn't that big of a deal. It would also be good for it not to be right against the wood playfield in the event a sensor fails and needs to be replaced (China).

Got some additional red oak and finally got the border all figured out. Routed the edges. Stain this week.

Got the leg levelers screwed into the feet. Will mount those this week also.

Found some nice aluminum U-channel at Menards that's meant for 1/4" plywood, should fit the glass perfect!

Got all the sensors painted.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#232 37 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

Autodesk also recently announced that they're pulling a ton of features from the free Fusion360 license

If you know any teachers or students, you can get a ton of Autodesk software for free.
https://www.autodesk.com/education/home

#233 35 days ago

looking good. I'm curious on how well the friction between the money and the back is going to be. All it takes is one little piece of crap to bind a coin up and get it stuck.

#234 34 days ago

120>150>220>tack>stain>wipe
Looks great! Very pleased with the first coat.

pasted_image (resized).png
#235 33 days ago

WOW! This looks awesome! You might have to mass produce these dudah!

#236 31 days ago

Test piece to see if I want to do a second coat of stain.
Left is a double coat of the “gun stock”, other 3 are different stains over a bar coat of gun stock.
I’m very happy with just the first coat, but figured I’d ask the peanut gallery their thoughts!

17848BE1-C2F7-410E-AF86-8C633216DB5A (resized).jpeg
#237 31 days ago

I like the far right,but my machines wood is dark

#238 31 days ago
Quoted from edward472:

I like the far right,but my machines wood is dark

Yea after comparing to the original that one matches well! It's a gel stain which isn't my favorite but I think the extra darkness will match the cabinet well.

#239 31 days ago

Testing this water based "thick" poly, we'll see how it dries.
pasted_image (resized).png

Still going over in my head if I want to clear the cabinet/red oak also, or just ply the oak and leave the cabinet as-is.
Very sure I want to clear the playfield.
Finely sanded and put another coat of paint on the playfield, it'll be worth it.

pasted_image (resized).png

Another next step is drilling the holes in the oak for the flicker rods.
I was hoping to have the playfield in and drill from the back with the oak already mounted.
If it's cleared with Spraymax drilling through the clear is likely a big risk.

#240 30 days ago

looking good

remember with time, timber will darken naturally as well

#241 29 days ago

I was always weary about mounting the wood rail and the spacing for everything.
Mocked it all up and shot in kreg screws to secure it. Drill just barely fit!

Took measurements for where I need to be placing the side mounts and the glass channel.
Having the red oak being square and consistent makes a clean look!
Laid down the gel stain, it looks incredible! Wiping it off is messy but satisfying.
Shooting to clear the oak and playfield tomorrow!

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#242 29 days ago

Very nice.

#243 29 days ago

Dup

#244 29 days ago
Quoted from edward472:

I wouldn't clear the wood. It looks good the way it is. Just wax it. Maybe some Howard Feed & Wax

#245 29 days ago

627F8A61-8831-4DB3-8182-688DEAA40FFF (resized).jpegF350C9B8-7B41-4951-A7B5-520CBC642755 (resized).jpeg

#246 29 days ago

Stuff looks pretty nice, but I want to protect the wood forever.
At the least, poly.
I have 2 cans of the SprayMax and am hoping that's enough for the oak and the playfield.
From the SprayMax thread, guys seem to easily use 2 cans on a normal pinball playfield so it will be close.

#247 29 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

Stuff looks pretty nice, but I want to protect the wood forever.
At the least, poly.
I have 2 cans of the SprayMax and am hoping that's enough for the oak and the playfield.
From the SprayMax thread, guys seem to easily use 2 cans on a normal pinball playfield so it will be close.

You may want to consider shellac. Been used for literally thousands of years as a protective finish You can go from blonde to garnet in color, allowing you to get a warmer, vintage look. It creates a protective coat without the plastic sheen of SprayMax. Best of all, it's easy to apply (unless you're French polishing this masterpiece!)

#248 28 days ago

This is the greatest thing I have seen in terms of a remake super impressive.

#249 28 days ago

Very impressive , watching this closely

#250 27 days ago

Forgot to buy blue vinyl for the insert decals, waiting on that to clear the PF.
I actually cut a new playfield yesterday as a backup.
Wanted to generate the g-code for the CNC for when CAM is removed from Fusion. Now I have the ability to make the current revision of the playfield forever. Same issue as before though - minor thickness differences in the MDF/on the CNC table caused variance in the depth of cut for the track. Next time will send the sheet through the planer first.

Laid down the first coat of poly on the oak rails. Plan is to dry, finely sand, second coat, finely sand, polish.
Since there's no more stinky/messy work to be done, I brought in the cabinet! Also attached the base/rear legs.

pasted_image (resized).png
Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Macungie, PA
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 200.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
$ 4.49
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
$ 89.99
Lighting - Led
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 15.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
£ 29.00
Lighting - Led
PinballToys
$ 99.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 5,899.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
$ 5.00
Playfield - Other
Chrome Candy
$ 49.99
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
$ 4.49
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
From: $ 9.99
$ 12.00
Cabinet - Other
Siegecraft Electronics
From: $ 42.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
ModFather Pinball Mods
From: $ 175.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Mod Co.
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 26.95
$ 10.00
Playfield - Decals
Mods for your pinballs
$ 2.00
Playfield - Decals
Doc's Pinball Shop
From: $ 44.00
$ 40.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Arcade Arts
$ 239.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Tilttopper
$ 16.50
Lighting - Led
Lermods
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 29.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
$ 8,800.00
Pinball Machine
Stealth arcade
There are 276 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 6.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside