Algonquin, IL
You da man, @swinks! I should've read this beforehand, but I'll give it another shot next time I'm on the Shopbot!
(Topic ID: 265453)
It's funny how it sounds so easy to just throw together the cabinet, but it takes tactful and conscious skill.
Got this far in a little under 2 hours. Love the Kreg jig!
The front piece width got messed up somehow so need to take it to the table saw. The one at the hackerspace was down but should be fixed in the next day or two.
Otherwise, everything else lined up beautifully!
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The tablesaw is still broken despite some repair efforts by the staff (It's a SawStop)
Learned to weld tonight! Next step is plasma CNC for cutting out the flickers and plates
In the garage I've been playing around with stains and woods - in the main Skill Roll thread some guys were guessing what type of wood it is. One guy felt confident it was pine so did a test piece.
Doing a google image search it seems people's games really vary from lighter blondes to darker.
I already have the red oak (bottom) and it's the right size, and it's nice - so likely will stick with that. Need to test that it routes OK.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from northvibe:my stock wood almost looks like your bottom left, does the stain say gun?
Yep the color was ”gunstock”. It’s the newest one. I actually haven’t tested it on the red oak, will do tomorrow!
With the oak you might be better off just putting a coat of satin poly on it. Poly alone should bring out nice natural colors of the oak without a need for stain.
Quoted from dudah:Yep the color was ”gunstock”. It’s the newest one. I actually haven’t tested it on the red oak, will do tomorrow!
My repro header is oak I think and the stock ones have a different grain. The stock stuff is kind of red-ish. Wondering if it is pine or something cheap. I can show you a pic if you are interested in the two.
thanks for the pics! I may try to redo my header with a new piece of wood and stain.
Thanks for the info guys. I'm an electronics guy that's figuring out all these hand tools and wood types as I go along.
While CNC isn't "woodworking" so much as pushing buttons.
Prior to this, my only real woodworking project was making a virtual pinball (which put me in this rabbit hole) 8 years ago.
This link may work - https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10100879107962699&type=3
Gunstock on the red oak with no clear. Left is two coats, middle is one.
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Cool that this exists
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Other sides cleared
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Drilled out the sensor holes to test
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Unfortunately it didn't work!
Even testing the sensor flush against the thin insert I couldn't get a read.
The read distance is only 4mm, and that probably isn't through solid material so makes sense.
I was hoping they'd be able to be concealed behind the playfield.
Thinking it over, I'll drill a hole all the way through. This also fixes my problem of having to CNC on both sides.
The CNC is supposedly accurate to 1/1000", so should be able to make it a tight but perfect fit.
Putting it flush with the front of the playfield and painting over the sensor *shouldn't* cause any issues and should be pretty well concealed.
Quoted from RustyLizard:Are you set on Oak? Maple or birch would be more more accurate.
I have not seen a Skill Roll in the flesh; however, looking at images, I don't see the heavy grain you typically get with red oak. I know maple was used on some other games...not sure about birch; although it could well be. The grain pattern sure looks a lot more like one of those than red oak.
Quoted from RustyLizard:Are you set on Oak? Maple or birch would be more more accurate.
I'm certainly open to alternatives. I'll swing by HD and see what else is out there.
Spent a lot of time (4+ hours) tweaking the design of the playfield track - made lines parallel, (re)sized some lengths to adjust for the compensated quarter gap, realigned the inserts, put in 2 inserts I missed at first, put in holes for the sensors.
On the playfield itself, I added a lip at the top to mount the light, and put in the hand insert to grab it that's on the original.
Redid all the CAM.
A lot of work, but now the playfield file is completely organized.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngI'm continuously impressed with your updates and dedication to this awesome project! I'm especially impressed with the fact that you have had to learn all of these new skills (i.e. machine usage certifications) in order to get this done.
I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THE FINAL PRODUCT...and hopefully have the opportunity to snag one!
Quoted from per3per3:I'm continuously impressed with your updates and dedication to this awesome project! I'm especially impressed with the fact that you have had to learn all of these new skills (i.e. machine usage certifications) in order to get this done.
I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THE FINAL PRODUCT...and hopefully have the opportunity to snag one!
Thanks so much for the kind words, I really appreciate it! I love the community and sharing my insanity!
Picked up the black plexi from my local supplier - $5/sq. ft. can't beat it!
Also ordered a piece of tempered glass for the front from the same people that did my shower door, $50
In my tracking sheet I'm already over $500 for material cost. And here I thought this was going to be cheap and easy!
you are doing well, and the number one is you made it so a huge accomplishment, but remember if you going to do go into production and make a few units. There are savings on materials as you would buy in bulk but especially in your time. eg like the black plexi laser cutting you would have 10 of the same shapes next to each other saving routing time etc, buy a few of the correct cutters and cleanup time of the timber improves, etc.
looking great
3d printed some parts on the Prusa at the hackerspace. MUCH nicer than mine.
Laser cut the new rails - 48 minutes!
I remembered from last time to save the protective layer for the plexi to transport it, worked great!
Cut a new cabinet, better speeds and feeds gave me much cleaner cuts and much less prep!
The front plexi holes line up perfect
The black plexi is very glossy, I like it!
The threaded shaft of the sensor is ever so slightly wider than the sensor, had to widen the hole from the rear for 0.3inches.
The drill bit stop kept slipping off and I went through the front, shit!
I was able to hammer it back in and sand it a bit and it looks 99%! I may end up hand routing it out - lots of work!
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I'm at a loss on how to cover the playfield.
My original thought was to spray prime/paint it then clear it.
I question how a Rust-Oleum clear would hold up over time with the friction of the quarter. I plan to wax the playfield and track.
Also considered doing Spraymax 4K on the playfield and the cabinet. I've never sprayed serious clear before and worry about the fumes/PPE (Do I Shave my beard?) If I do it out in the alley then bring it back in the garage - less risk of fumes but what if a piece of debris or an insect gets trapped in it?
The current plan is to lay a sheet of glossy vinyl adhesive down with some spray adhesive and see how well it works. I figured I'll have to xacto out the track but don't think it'll be too bad.
Quoted from dudah:The threaded shaft of the sensor is ever so slightly wider than the sensor, had to widen the hole from the rear for 0.3inches.
The drill bit stop kept slipping off and I went through the front, shit!
Wrap tape around the drill bit to create a stop. It's not as good as a stop on a drill press, but it'll work. Pay attention to it. If the taps starts sagging, reapply it.
Quoted from dudah:The current plan is to lay a sheet of glossy vinyl adhesive down with some spray adhesive and see how well it works. I figured I'll have to xacto out the track but don't think it'll be too bad.
That sounds like the best bet.
Quoted from dudah:My original thought was to spray prime/paint it then clear it.
I question how a Rust-Oleum clear would hold up over time with the friction of the quarter.
That's why you need to do automotive clear. I know of at least 2 people in the chicago area that would do them reasonably. Another option is to just buy that self leveling clear, VERY easy to apply and it's very tough. If clear isn't enough, lots of stores are carrying DIY ceramic coating to go over on top of it. That stuff is supposed to prevent rock chips from penetrating through the clear. Surely that will prevent quarter friction from scratching it up.
Quoted from toyotaboy:That's why you need to do automotive clear. I know of at least 2 people in the chicago area that would do them reasonably. Another option is to just buy that self leveling clear, VERY easy to apply and it's very tough. If clear isn't enough, lots of stores are carrying DIY ceramic coating to go over on top of it. That stuff is supposed to prevent rock chips from penetrating through the clear. Surely that will prevent quarter friction from scratching it up.
I'll try the vinyl route first as that's the cheapest and probably easiest. At the end of the day I'm sure the vinyl will hold up just fine based on past projects. Especially in my home environment.
Spraying it outside with my 3M respirator and a bunny suit, then bringing it in the garage to dry is a decent option. I still question how "hot" it is and what potential havoc Spraymax would do on the insert decals.
What ceramic coating are you talking about?
Well now we're getting somewhere! Just as the workday was ending the hackerspace Slack got updated that the table saw is fixed! Chopped it off and popped her on, beautiful! Did some sanding and masking. I had previously sprayed the insides with the spray lacquer to help keep dirt off of it.
Took the v1 playfield and stripped off some track and did a test sand/prime/paint. Looks pretty good! While the MDF is very flat, the flaws stick out very obviously. All the more reason I'm excited to try the vinyl. Realized it will also conceal the blue sensor, bonus!
Hoping to prime and paint this weekend!
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I'm completely green with envy. You are doing an amazing job and I can't wait to see how it turns out.
Laid down the base coat with 2 cans of spray. Need at least one more to get the other side and back door which I didn't spray.
Not super thrilled with some pooling/dripping on the coin door but I can always sand down and add more.
Spray paint sales are banned in Chicago so need to venture to the burbs for a little more!
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngDecided to roll the rest of the paint (and redo what isn’t hammered enough). Despite going to 5 big box stores nobody has the right color!
On a better note I tested the coverage of the spray over the hammered base and it looks great. Stencils provided the perfect overspray!
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I'm still here.
Haven't made any progress lately as I've been traveling for work again and pretty busy wrapping up summer.
So the hammered Gray rustoleum can 'o paint is heavily backordered on Amazon.
That paired with the unavailability at ANY store I check makes me think it's discontinued.
Wanting to move forward, with the silver color readily available at any store, makes me think I should just sand it down and repaint.
I feel I'd need to sand/re-prime as I don't want different shades on different sides.
Stupid, but I should have known better trying to spray a hammered finish.
As for the vinyl for the playfield, I ordered it SIXTEEN days ago and it's current status is "In Transit, Arriving Late".
On a better note, I got the large vinyl cutter figured out at the hackerspace today, so just need to whip up that art file.
I love what you’re doing but honestly, if I owned one, I would just paint my cabinet one solid color... possibly orange or Navy blue.
Quoted from snyper2099:I love what you’re doing but honestly, if I owned one, I would just paint my cabinet one solid color... possibly orange or Navy blue.
Funny story, so I think mine may of been repainted, but it looked like a truck bed liner gray. so I was kind of like, ugh, wtf is this. Then I think I learned that was how they painted them? If I was going to redo one, I'd just do the gray paint or maybe even bed line it so it had the texture!
Quoted from dudah:So the hammered Gray rustoleum can 'o paint is heavily backordered on Amazon.
That paired with the unavailability at ANY store I check makes me think it's discontinued.
Not sure how far you're willing to drive, but a handful of Chicago area Menards have it in stock (excluding several with the dreaded "1 in stock" which is often a lie). I'd definitely take a short trip over sanding & repainting.
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Quoted from yancy:Not sure how far you're willing to drive, but a handful of Chicago area Menards have it in stock (excluding several with the dreaded "1 in stock" which is often a lie). I'd definitely take a short trip over sanding & repainting.
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I appreciate the help! I checked a few Menards/HD and all said they had some in stock and when I got there they were nowhere to be found.
On top of that, there wasn't even a tag for the gray color on the shelf so I'm fairly convinced they never existed.
I'll do a test paint later this week and see how it goes. It'd be great to not have to sand and re-prime!
3C23F98B-FF17-4E4B-B121-713FB01D51AE (resized).jpegB3A9A08A-94E5-4723-AD0D-31EFA36EB530 (resized).jpeg05D4FB1A-780D-4A74-81DC-47E07F26C596 (resized).jpegA47D6B56-E0E7-490B-94F4-C8EA5CF59DEA (resized).jpegEC9D6E16-9FB0-42A3-A04F-8D6DDC122862 (resized).jpeg36995B79-69DA-4BEA-BAA9-9399D2CF9E47 (resized).jpegWell the vinyl sounded good in theory.
Too many thin cuts/thin pieces made it very difficult to line up. And the vinyl cutter made a few random large cuts (like the diagonal).
Ordered a new piece and I'll lay it down as one piece, then take a new xacto and carefully cut.
What I did get with the vinyl looks good enough to keep trying!
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngyou are making good progress but don't think the vinyl is the best approach especially if you plan on making and selling a few. You would be better off to undercoat the mdf to seal followed with a white base coat to give the vinyl to stick to, OR instead of the yellow vinyl maybe paint it.
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