I have the top part. Looks like the same skeeball. I can post some pics and measurements later. Mine doesnt work though.

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Im not good with editing pics, but ill try to label dimensions

Hope this helps. Let me know of any others you need

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Looks good. Do you have a way to drive it?

Originally I believe that these Skee Ball machines were entirely mechanical. The only electrical feature was a bulb in the head to illuminate the score. The Winner light I'm familiar with looks like a kit that was added later. It required some pins and switches to be added to the scoring mechanism and box of relays and such to turn on the Winner light once the score reached an award level. I imagine that later games might have come with this installed. Does your game have any of that extra, electrical stuff?

/Mark

Restoring quite a few of the mechanical Skee Balls, one other electrical device is
the ticket dispenser which triggers off of the flipping number score wheel that has
small metal pegs which help drive the wheel. Longer pegs can be put in desired positions
which triggers a micro-switch that activates the ticket dispenser and also the winner
light. I believe another relay box was later added for the Winner light..
Things are shaping up quite nicely Steve. Good job.. (T)

@mopar (or anyone else), I always assumed that the ticket dispenser with its metal pegs was also a later development/enhancement/addition to the basic game. Do you think ticket dispensers were always available on the mechanical model?

Steve, what's the bottom front of your machine look like. I'm pretty sure that
the 50s machines had the ticket dispensers. Inside the back door, there should
be a two digit number that refers to the year of your machine..
The first mechanical Skee Ball was built in 1909, and physically it did have some
differences, but mechanically, it was primarily the same until the last one built in
1974. So at the beginning, it had no ticket dispenser, but I'm pretty sure by the
50s, it was added.

It wouldn't surprise me if your machine was ordered not to have a dispenser..
Might your scoring mech have numbers on one side. These numbers are where
the longer pegs whould be placed for a ticket to dispense at that score. You can
see the switch stem that the peg momentarily strikes to trigger the dispenser.
It's not seen in the pic, but there's another switch that breaks that circuit at reset
so when the pegs travels through the dispensing switch, it's not dispensing out tickets..

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Seems like we think alike Mopar ... This is the reason I always thought the ticket dispenser and winner lights were added later:
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The base of the scoring unit is a solid cast piece of metal with sturdy gears, levers and such. The bracket over the top that hods the switches is much cheaper bent sheet metal with zip ties holding the wire in place. Also the plate on the left side with the pegs is in two pieces and bolted on to the main plate that holds all of the scoring flaps. Maybe they came from the factory this way but the switches and pegs seem like an afterthought.

Yea, the second plate holds in the pins. That's how the shorter pins can be replaced with
the longer ones, and vice-versa. I still believe the dispenser was in use when your machine
was manufacture..
I also think that perhaps there were additives, but at a certain year, it was pretty much standard
at factory unless ordered special. For sure the early 60s, but I'm thinking in the 50s the dispenser
was in use. I had maybe a dozen of the mechanical Skee Balls, and all had ticket dispensers, but
all may have been from the 60s and 70s. I'm not sure if I had any from the 50s. I learned about
the year being in the back door after many were gone. Only now have two. 1966 and 1970.
I do have 3 extra front 10' alleys. Maybe someday I'll stumble across some 4 ft. back portions..

I had forgot, but the inner plate does have the numbers on also..
As you'll see in the pics, the outer plate holds the small rods going through
the flip numbers in position. The plates are in 2 sets so they can easily be
removed. Once removed, the rods can be slid out. I pulled one of the longer
rods slightly out in one of the pics..
And since the camera was out, I took a pic of my next project which I just
began on this past Monday. It's a "Pull-a-Way Merry-go-Round by Game Time
from the 30s/40s. It'll be going down below at the pond with the other vintage
playground equipment the I refurbished..
Sorry for throwing that in here, but it has been a great Summertime hobby for me..

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Good job Steve, I think I see what you have done. The longer pins actually keep the contacts closed, so you'll
need pins from 250 to 450, so you need like 21 longer pins, right?
Is the micro switch that activates at reset on there, or no micro switches came with the machine..

Do any of you have a manual for these old Skee Balls? I'm having fits trying to make adjustments on the vertical rod to get everything to reset properly.

What's it doing, not totally resetting back to zero?
Do the balls release okay when starting a fresh game?
Do the pockets score the correct amount?

The problem I am having is getting the collars on the vertical rod adjusted so that three things happen.

First of all, the pull on the game start handle needs to be able to reset the score reel. The upper collar needs to be set high enough on the thin sliding vertical rod to get the spring tension needed to pull the inner sliding rod down to reset the reel.

Second, after pulling the ball release handle by the player it should go back fully to its initial position.

Third, the vertical rod must raise back up enough so that the arm that catches and moves the reel during reset returns back to the point that it can catch and reset the reel again in a new game.

I can only get two of these requirements to work on a reset. Changing the collar position to increase or decrease the spring tension will correct one fault but then another issue fails.

If you have a manual is there anything in it about adjusting these collars?

Also how would you adjust the closing force of the hydraulic door closer to increase the closing force of the piston?

By the way it also resets to 10 every time.

Okay, are you referring to the spring underneath where the balls rest?
That spring is only for the ball release. I have a couple of these, but it's
been a while I went through them. That's the only spring I can recall.
At the end of the cable in the head, there's a threaded adjust to tightened or
loosen the cable. At rest, the cable should have play, but not a lot.
I take it you're talking about the vertical rod under the pockets. That rod is
only for the scoring. Not resetting. The score resetting is all in the cable adjustment,
but the spring under where the balls sit doesn't have anything to do with the flipping
numbers to reset..
The machine resetting to 10 is not a problem to adjust, but the first thing is to get
the numbers to reset properly..

The problem centers on the two collars on the thin, vertical rod and spring in the back of the game as shown in the pictures.

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Oh yes. Forgot about that spring. I'll see about moving mine out and taking
a look. Did you mention your pull handle doesn't return back after pulling?

The farther that spring is stretched, the slower the handle returns. If it's
stretched too much, it won't return. Here's where mine is positioned..

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Wow, excellent. Thank you.

Does anyone have a picture of the date stamp location? Apparently it's inside the back somewhere but I haven't been able to find it.

Thanks,

/Mark

Well, I gave up trying to get the two collars adjusted to get everything to work properly. I've spent probably 4-5 hours trying to get adjustments right. I ended up adding enough spring force to the original spring to get the score rolodex to reset when the player's handle is pulled. But to do that the trip rod couldn't return high enough to engage the reset cam on the score unit. So I added a spring to counter that so it could return as it should as shown in the picture. Works perfectly now.

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I understood the date stamp is inside the backdoor on a white label.
It'll be the model. Mine's written Model 70, meaning it was produced
in 1970..

I don't understand why you had that problem. Maybe something slightly wedged.
I went through maybe 7 or 8 of them and never had that type of problem, but glad
you got it working properly..

Yeah, the problem just kind of happened out of nowhere. The odd thing is, with this extra spring installed it now resets to zero like it should.