(Topic ID: 327764)

Skateball, flipper switch issue

By ktuhde

1 year ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Rikoshay
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#8 1 year ago

may not help your issues, but that dual EOS needs to be corrected by all suppliers that sell that configuration.
it is incorrect for Bally games that have more than 2 flippers.

your left hand cabinet flipper switch may work, but the current involved requires heavy duty contacts to cope properly.
your right hand flipper switch contacts are severely pitted and should be changed, just a suggestion.

the first switch closest to the coil is the EOS switch and should have tungsten tipped contacts, NOT standard contacts, as you notice are on the second switch contacts that are for engaging the upper flipper.

lane change switches for a Bally are in the cabinet stacked on the flipper switch. These do not require heavy duty contacts but will still work fine if they do.

you could try correcting the set up for a start? also try adding some spark suppressing capacitors on both the flipper switches in the cabinet and the switches on the flipper assemblies. This is not for everyone but once done you help give long life to your expensive tungsten tipped switches and reduce noise from the spark generated when the capacitors aren't installed.

regarding the switch test, and it's probably a typo, but the switch test shows 'closed' switches, not open ones.

i mean no offence how my post may sound, but it's a shame that sellers of parts get it wrong sooooo many times and it's left up to the buyer to sort out, and if you're not any wiser in the sense of what correct and what isn't the you end up suffering through no fault of your own.

#11 1 year ago

Thinking on it my post wasn't really helpful, so these are the correct dual EOS switches that go on flipper assemblies for Bally & Stern with more than 2 flippers: https://www.euro-pinball.de/en/a365-00046-0000-dual-eos-switch-assembly.html

These are the correct cabinet flipper switches without the lane change switch: https://www.euro-pinball.de/en/Cabinet-flipper-switch-Bally-ASW-A10-41.html

#22 1 year ago

Your capacitors connect across the switch itself, both in the cabinet and the EOS, solder directly to the solder tabs for each contact blade.

Only for the high current, not needed on the lane change switch.

1 week later
#24 1 year ago

Great news, well done!

I've read about phantom coils energising and what I read was put down to that Bally bunched all their wires together and at random times the cpu picks up noise or a signal nearby as a closed switch and responds accordingly.

People have gone to the length of isolating coil power wires from the loom with it being better to no phantom coils going off at all.

I don't believe it's luck, adding a noise suppression device is such as a capacitor is what Bally did and is documented in their manuals/schematics, and it makes sense in such a volatile area with so much going on at the same time.

Regarding the resets, how close to 5VDC is the machines 5VDC supply and at various test points?

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