Still would like to join the club. If anyone is looking to sell that is localish, let me know. Or if you know someone that knows someone etc.
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Still would like to join the club. If anyone is looking to sell that is localish, let me know. Or if you know someone that knows someone etc.
Joined the club over the weekend! I have TNA sandwiched between the 2 Ballys, and a Sorcerer as the redheaded step child as far as early SS games go. I have all of my modern games on the other wall. I've been eyeing one up for a couple years now, and finally was able to pick one up a fair distance from me, but certainly worth the trip.
General question, the original PF is in pretty good shape. Only 2 parts of missing paint, a small bit in the purple lane by the rollover targets, and one part in between the left pop bumper and the upper 3 bank drop target. Some swirl marks around various parts.
I see that there is still Silver CPRs available. Would you do the CPR or have the original pf restored and cleared, if you were wanting to get a really nice pf? Cost-wise, what would the differences be?
f414afda32e161722ec411c5b95cc917990648c6 (resized).jpgbde8d1728c3d8691dbb9d188afb1bd84c0181d6b (resized).jpgca2cbdefcf7e1355224a488950ed48e23de2b2bb (resized).jpgQuoted from GSones:I can't speak to the cost but due to the complexity of the playfield art I'd be inclined to pick up a CPR repro. BTW, keep an eye on the HEP weekly thread as there will be a Skateball coming through very soon.
The original pf is in great shape. There are some keylines around the inserts worn off, but other than the 2 spots I described, it looks really good. Definitely a restorable pf. On the other hand, with a CPR, I can pretty much hot swap everything over...
Quoted from Whysnow:just keep it and play the snot out of it
Also, when can I come over for beers and pinball?
Any time you want man!
Quoted from Quench:There are differences in colors - compare the blue waves and surfer skin tones. It may or may not bother you:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/skateball-club-fans-welcome/page/5#post-3984699
Thanks for the link. The skin tones and blue wave certainly do differ, and the one in the game looks really great already. Hmmm....
Quoted from Tsskinne:That was the rats nest I created when I washed it and the reason I needed pictures to be able to fix it.
When I've seen people wash their harnesses, they usually keep it all zip tied together
It would drive me crazy to leave it like that.
Quoted from nocreditdot:I am in the middle of a playfield swap on my skateball. I am missing the gate that at the end of the shooter lane. These are no longer available from the usual suspects. Anyone have one laying around?
Thanks
Mike
If you cant find anything, you can always make one out of piano wire (also called music wire at some stores)
Quoted from FLASHBALL:New to the club!! I'm missing this same exact gate as well.
But I'm not as concerned with the gate missing as I am with the LEDs ghosting and strobing. I ordered the comet warm white frosted retro bullets. They look really nice minus the ghosting/strobing issue. I am a system11 lover and have never had this issue before.
Is there an easy solution? At first I thought of the LED OCD board but that isnt designed for these older Ballys.[quoted image]
You dont need a whole new lamp board if yours works. You can either solder resistors to each controlled lamp socket, or easier yet, get a set of Seigecraft LED boards to get rid of the strobing.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Just found the siegecraft boards 45$ is half the cost of the lamp driver board. Out of stock direct from siegecraft. Guess I'll put in another order with marco.
Reach out to HHaase as he is Seigecraft and is active on the forums. I believe Comet Pinball ryanwanger also sells a version of the boards as well.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:Hello Skateball owners.
Im talking to someone about buying their game long distance. The game plays as it should apparently but the g.i.and backglass lighting are working (inserts, bumbers and scores all good)
Any idea what the cause could be? Dont want to commit to another money pit
Possibly a burnt/bad connector or a break in the 5V somewhere? Could be a bad bridge rectifier too. I wouldnt think it would be too difficult to diagnose.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:Could a kind Skateball owner take a measurement of the game with its head folded down? I can barely squeeze a system 11 in my car. I dont want to show up to picknup my Skateball and it doesnt fit. I cant find a clear answer on the internet.
The head comes off pretty easily. I would recommend taking the head off. It's a few connectors that need to be removed. You could always bring tape and mark them on both ends for easier reconnection. Take pics of it beforehand as well.
Very cool piece. I agree that it looks like an EM playfield. I wonder who the designer is? I think it would be fun in its own regard as an EM game. Definitely not to replace the Skateball that we know and love, but as it's own machine.
Quoted from schwism:I’ve joined the club. Not sure if I’ve played it at all but it looks good.
Yesterday I was browsing FB Marketplace and saw an ad for a $40 machine that had just gone up. Thought it would be a tabletop game - no, a Skateball! I inquired right away. Seller said it wasn’t working but I was the first interested person. The second offered $100 which I agreed to match. Picked it up a couple hours later (it was only a few miles away). Didn’t bother to try it until I got it set up at my place. Plugged it in - nothing. Turned on the switch-it starts right up. Played a game the best I could with broken rubbers.
It has some playfield wear and broken/missing plastics but after a shop job it should be a decent machine.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome pickup! $100? WTG!
Quoted from schwism:Thanks. I’ve thrown on a few new rings so I could play it and it seems to be playing fine. The center drop target in the middle bank is broken but everything else seems okay.
Interestingly the manual says nothing about playfield pitch. Is 6 degrees reasonable?
I need to replace the battery. Some leakage which I’ll need to clean up.
Looking into free play options. Doesn’t look like this can be done with dip switches.
Needs cleaning but there’s a decent playfield under the dirt.
[quoted image]
No free play on these games unless you've got an altec board installed, change the dip switches to give 15 credits per coin and load it up to 40 credits.
6.5 degrees is typical, but I jack mine up in the back to make it play fast. Too floaty and these games are snoozefests imo.
The battery should be clipped off and replaced with an offboard AA battery holder or better yet, NVRAM. Just plug and play with these games. Use hydrochloric acid toilet bowl cleaner and a toothbrush to scrub off any corrosion, then wash it with a bit of water and some 90% isopropyl alcohol. Make sure it's completely dry.
Quoted from schwism:Thanks for the tips. I did order a battery board from TNT which will get me to a safer and longer lasting CR2032 battery. I’ll clean it up and I think I’ll be okay. [quoted image]
Yeah, clip that battery off ASAP if you haven't already. A coin battery will do fine, but I always go with NVRAM since the board is socketed to easily accept the replacement. Maybe for next time
There's no rule to say that you can't mix Yoppsicles and traditional socketed bulbs. If I were to use them in future swaps, this is what I would probably do.
Use .047 piano wire (music wire) and bend your own. Super easy to do with a pliers and diagonal cutter to trim to size. Takes maybe 10 mins, is really cheap, and you will have plenty leftover to make more gates in the future.
Quoted from Tallon:Need a little help. Have a project Skateball that I had to replace the head on. I replaced it with a Future Spa head and now I need to make backbox lamp board (the white board behind the backglass). I know the displays are in a standard location. Could some nice person take a few pics and maybe hold up a yard stick (or Meter stick) so I can get light baffle and lamp locations? Any help is appreciated.
I could probably get some pics posted for you after work today.
Quoted from Dakine747:Question: How do y’all “find” each other at these events? I’m only three years into the hobby, and have attended both MGC and Expo, and it’d be nice to meet some of the guys here with whom I’ve bought/sold stuff and from whom I’ve gotten valuable advice/tech support. Not easy to do when all you have to go by is an avatar or a screen name.
Usually pick a spot and time and meet there at given spot and time. Describe yourself if you haven't met before. I've met a few people this way. I know that someone made badges for Pinsiders to wear at one point, but not sure if that still happens. I haven't been since 2019.
Quoted from Tallon:JJ from game exchange has a meet and greet that he prints badges for. Don't know when the last time he did that. Still have my badge though.
As far as a meet up. Figured Panda would say something like sounds good or I'm not going this year and then I would send him a PM with info.
Not to turn this into a local discussion, but kinda still up in the air, but we have plans to be there on Saturday. Will arrive right before doors open and head out probably around dinnertime. We'll have the kids there so we'll see how long they last but yeah, I'm definitely up for a meet n greet!
To bring this back to Skateball, just ordered new drop targets and flipper rebuilds for all 4 flippers. Just realized that after having this game for about 3 years, that I haven't had to do much work on it. The upper right flipper started to stick and I found a burr on the plunger that was catching. So new Drops and flipper rebuilds it was. Also needed a new mini flipper with shoe and shaft...$170 to PBR.
Quoted from friscopinball:Anyone got a line on a new spinner or decal by any chance? Just put in brand new plastics (with protectors) and purple rubbers and would love to change out my spinner.
I know it's pretty unobtainium but worth a shot!
Best bet is trying to get a good scan and making your own decal.
Quoted from jedi42:Curious on this, if i remember correctly (too lazy to walk downstairs to check), the spinner graphic is painted on. If so, would you sand all that off then apply a decal? And does anyone have a good scan?
It's painted on. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, it'll take or loosen the paint off and you can clean it off pretty well after. Then get some vinyl sticker paper and an image and print it off. Did this with Flash Gordon as mine came with a Harlem Globe Trotters spinner and a worn original.
Quoted from Dakine747:Couple questions:
I've started my first CPR playfield swap ('78 Playboy, going slow and wanna get it right), and I'm interested in an ultrasonic cleaner. I just got a vibratory tumbler for the metal parts, but for the ultrasonic, where/type/quality to source?? I'm not a the king of restoration, so I really wouldn't need a PRO model.
And when cleaning up a spinner (my Skateball could use the new image), what would I include in the cleaning solution? Then, after printing and applying the image to the spinner, would I just use Triple Thick or another rattle can clear to seal it??
I have a Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner too and it's totally competent. It'll fit most pinball mechs (the drop target mechs tend to be the biggest and if they don't fit, at least they'll fit one half at a time so you can still clean the entire mech). Should be enough for anything you'd throw at it.
For general cleaning, I use a 50/50 mix of water and concentrated degreaser. You can get cheap degreaser at the dollar store (orange stuff) or I have 30/70 simple green and water right now since I didn't want to run out to get the orange stuff.
When you get a new image sticker/decal on your spinner (or drop target) cut out a piece of mylar the same size and stick it on and you should be set for life, if not a good long while.
Quoted from ACDNate:Wrapping up a refresh to hold me over until i can swing a new playfield. Would like to swap out my speaker. Anyone have any reccomendations?
Also the "spot" lamp by the upper left drop bank seems to have a break in the line somewhere in the bundle. Looked but can't find it. Thinking of just adding a direct wire from that light to the board and zip tie it along with the rest of the bundle. Any reason not to?
With the game on, ground the lamp to a bare price of metal (like the side rail) if it lights, then the lamp and socket are OK.
This usually points to a bad SCR on the lamp board. If you have a weekly board, it might warrant checking other things first, such as connectors.
Oftentimes, I will directly solder the lamp wire to the "nub" of the socket. Sometimes the tab gets loose and doesn't make good connection. I would start there before running direct wires to the connector.
Quoted from ACDNate:So I jumped the socket tab to another controlled lights tab. The socket and bulb are good.
I went back and looked and pulled the pin on the board and it looked good. Re-pinned it anyway. Bingo bongo light works again.
Glad you figured it out!
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