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(Topic ID: 267070)

Six Million Dollar Man 2532 Eproms


By pinballman3

6 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 33 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 months ago by barakandl
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 6 months ago

Hello all, I have a Six Million Dollar Man I am needing to burn some new Eproms for. The board had 9316 Roms originally. I am wanting to burn 2532 Eproms for U2 and U6. I have the jumpers changed for 2532 already. Can someone tell me do I just combine U1 and U2 and burn them on a 2532? Then double up U6 image and burn to a 2532? I tried this and the board would not boot. When turned on the led just comes on and stays on solid. I rechecked the jumpers and they are all right. Don't know if I did something wrong or what. When the original 9316 were in the board it would boot fine but a few things did not work right. I borrowed a friends board out of his machine and everything worked perfect in my machine. Working on the board after doing everything else I came to the conclusion that the Roms had to be bad. I did notice when I combined the U1 and U2 together the new file said 3kb both U1 and U2 are 2kb so my new file should have been 4kb right? Any ideas on this issue? Thanks

#2 6 months ago

How did you combine the U1 and U2 ROMs? The total file size should be 4096 bytes. It sounds like you didn't do a binary copy.
And what size is the doubled U6 ROM file?

Can you post a picture of your MPU board so we can confirm if the jumper settings are correct?

#3 6 months ago

I combined them in command prompt in windows (DOS) or what ever they call it now. Under properties the U1 and U2 combined file shows size on disk (4096 bytes). Under properties the doubled up U6 file shows (4096 bytes). So I think they are right. I was just looking at what it showed in the file not going to properties of each file. I did just verify that the 3 Rom files I am using are good on Romidentification. Here are the pics of the board. Jumper 4 to 12 is on the back. Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks for the reply

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#4 6 months ago

Try just the U6 rom. You should get a flicker.

#5 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

I combined them in command prompt in windows (DOS) or what ever they call it now.

So for combining U1 and U2 you typed (thereabouts):
copy /B U1.9316 + U2.9316 U2.2532

U1.9316 --> original 9316/2716 U1 ROM file
U2.9316 --> original 9316/2716 U2 ROM file
U2.2532 --> new combined 2532/2732 U2 ROM file

And for doubling U6 you typed (thereabouts):
copy /B U6.9316 + U6.9316 U6.2532

U6.9316 --> original 9316/2716 U6 ROM file
U6.2532 --> new doubled 2532/2732 U6 ROM file

Note, the /B parameter in the copy command is important.

If this makes any sense, can you report the CRC32 hash of both new ROM files?
I haven't tested these but the resultant CRC32 hash I get are:
U2.2532 #52A6BCD4
U6.2532 #FB366EFC

Quoted from pinballman3:

I have the jumpers changed for 2532 already.

Your jumper settings on the board look ok.

Quoted from pinballman3:

When the original 9316 were in the board it would boot fine but a few things did not work right.

What didn't work right about the original 9316 PROMs?

#6 6 months ago

Ok what is the /B for? I did not have that in there. I had copy U1.9316 + U2.9316 U2.2532
I did not have the /B in the command. Could that be my whole problem? I am new to this and went from what I seen online. That guy was doing text files though. Thanks

#7 6 months ago

The saucer did not kick out ball. Left pop bumper would activate the down post. One sling shot did not work. Right pop bumper did not work. Using my friends board everything worked great.

#8 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

Ok what is the /B for? I did not have that in there. I had copy U1.9316 + U2.9316 U2.2532
I did not have the /B in the command. Could that be my whole problem? I am new to this and went from what I seen online. That guy was doing text files though. Thanks

/B means to do a binary file copy.. definitely required.
The /B is not required for text file copies.

#9 6 months ago

Ok I combined the files again using the /B Sixman being the file I directed dos to then I typed
Sixman> copy /B 742-20_1.716 + 742-18_2.716 2.bin for U1 + U2 combined 2.bin being the combined file
Sixman> copy /B 720-30_6.716 + 720-30_6.716 6.bin for U6 doubled 6.bin being the doubled file
Now when I turn the machine on I just get one real quick flash and that's it. Thanks

#10 6 months ago

You now have a checksum error, or a data buss line is not complete.
Make sure the pins from the CPU makes contact to all pins to each
Eprom.

#11 6 months ago

So with a checksum error is it possible I still don't have the files combined right? Is there a set of known working combined files for U2 and U6 out there somewhere? That way I could program them to the chips and see if that is my problem for sure? If it is my problem then I can figure out what I am doing wrong combining them. Thanks

#12 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

The saucer did not kick out ball. Left pop bumper would activate the down post. One sling shot did not work. Right pop bumper did not work. Using my friends board everything worked great.

This isn't a faulty ROM problem, more likely a connector issue.

When the MPU board first powers up, it attempts to do a checksum test of the ROMs (provided the CPU can access ROM U6 successfully) to make sure the code is valid. If the ROMs are corrupt, it could lead to invalid code executing that causes coils and/or display digits to lock on which will burn them out so this must be prevented where possible.
If the ROM checksum fails, the CPU will stall and no longer process. This is what you're seeing now with the initial power-on LED flicker.

What kind of EPROM programmer are you using? Do you have it externally powered or are you only connecting USB to it?
What checksums does the programmer software report for the "2.bin" and "6.bin" files when you load them?

Quoted from pinballman3:

Is there a set of known working combined files for U2 and U6 out there somewhere?

You can download all the Bally ROMs converted to 2532/2732 here (2532 and 2732 EPROM file format is the same):
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Roms/Pinball/Bally/

The files you need in the "bly2732.zip" archive are:
6MI$2732.U2
720-3032.U6

#13 6 months ago

I am using a GQ-4X programmer. I always hook up the external power even if it does not say I need it. The checksums I get from the files I created are. Thanks
2.bin- 0077DDFC
6.bin- 0075FBFC

#14 6 months ago

In the old GQ-4X software I get the following checksums:
U2: 00084DFC
U6: 00066BFC

The CRC#32 of my U2 matches the one in the "bly2732.zip". My U6 is different because the U6 in the "bly2732.zip" has the lower half of the file "FF" filled rather than doubled. This is technically more correct.

Suffice to say I suggest you just use the files out of the "bly2732.zip" linked in my previous post.

#15 6 months ago

Quench, by using the link you gave me and comparing those files to mine my U2 file is correct. My U6 file is wrong. Am I not doing something right trying to combine the same file together maybe?

#16 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

My U6 file is wrong.

Your U6 will be different. You are doubling the 2k byte 9316 U6 file to create a 4k byte 2532 U6 file.
The 4k byte U6 file in the "bly2732.zip" archive is not doubled, rather the first half of the file is empty, the second half of the file contains the actual U6 code.
Technically speaking the first half of the 2532 U6 file will never be accessed on your Six Million Dollar Man game, only the second half will be used.

You might have to write the data to those 2532 EPROMs more than once (say 3 successive times) *without* erasing between writes. It will help make sure the cells are programmed fully. This problem has popped up a few times over the past year or so where writes verify ok, but at different voltages in the game some cells are borderline and produce the wrong data resulting in the ROM test failing.

#17 6 months ago

I am writing these chips with the files you pointed me to now. I always double write them but I will write them 4 times and see if that helps. If not I will be pretty sure it is a board issue. The board did work with the originals in U1, U2 and U6. Just not everything worked. Maybe something happened to it since then. At this point I just don't know. I was going to ask you how you new which file was for U6. I just found the text file that lays all of it out. Ok I got it booting. I had written the U6 with the file you pointed me to. Then I tried to boot it. No change. So then I thought I will burn U2 with the new file. So in the meantime I got your reply about writing them at least 3 times. So I wrote U2 four times with the new file. Then I pulled U6 back out and wrote it two more times. Then tried it and it booted. So let me ask you would I have gotten more than just the quick flash if U6 was good but U2 was bad. I am wanting to figure out if writing the new U2 fixed it or if writing the U6 the extra times fixed it. Because the file I made for U2 had the exact same checksum as the new one. So was it just a bad write issue the whole time. Thanks

#18 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

So let me ask you would I have gotten more than just the quick flash if U6 was good but U2 was bad.

If U6 was good but U2 was bad you would have got the same result, i.e. fast LED flicker on power-up and that's it. Both ROMs need to pass checksum test for the first proper LED flash to occur and the boot process to proceed further.

Quoted from pinballman3:

So was it just a bad write issue the whole time.

Once you had the data formatted properly with the /B copy parameter then yes, the problem was likely some EPROM cells not deeply programmed enough in one or both chips.

#19 6 months ago

Thanks for the help. Well it booted up but everything is still the same. Some stuff just not working and the left pop bumper makes the post pull down or try to pull down if it is already down. I just don't know about connector issues because with my friends CPU everything works as it should. Maybe I need to start a new post and mark this one as resolved.

#20 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

Well it booted up but everything is still the same. Some stuff just not working and the left pop bumper makes the post pull down or try to pull down if it is already down.

Yes, I mentioned earlier it's not a ROM issue.

Put the game in solenoid test mode.
Report back to us which solenoids activate at each solenoid test numbers (14 in total) including numbers that seemingly don't activate anything. For your reference, you can cross reference them with the Six Million Dollar Man manual at the solenoid identification page (electronic PDF page 22, paper manual page 17).

The details you report will help us pinpoint the communication issue from MPU board to solenoid driver board.

#21 6 months ago

It could be a flaky 6821PIA

#22 6 months ago

All of this is in test mode. If any difference it is noted.

Working
1. post up
9. Right side kicker Works in test mode but not in game mode
10. Drop target reset
11. Post down
12. Gate
13. Coin lockout door
14. K1 relay (flippers)
Does not work
2. outhole kicker
3. Knocker
4. Saucer
5. Left pop bumper. Does not activate Activates post down ( both test and game)
6. Right pop bumper
7. Bottom pop bumper
8. Left side kicker

#23 6 months ago

All of the PIA's have been replaced with new ones. Actually U7, U8, U9, U10 and U11 have been replaced with new chips. Thanks

#24 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

All of this is in test mode. If any difference it is noted.

The results give me a suspicion that you have a short circuit between pins 1 and 2 of the MPU board J4 pin header. There may be an accidental solder bridge between those pins on the back of the board. The rear MPU board picture you posted above isn't clear enough for me to confirm.

With the machine OFF, remove the J4 connector. Measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2 of the J4 pin header. Compare to the resistance between pins 2 and 3.

#25 6 months ago

Quench, you are spot on. It was a solder bridge from pin 1 to pin 2. (See pic). The left and right kickers still don't work and the right and bottom pop bumpers don't work. Everything does work correctly in test mode. More trouble shooting now. Thanks

IMG_8089_2 (resized).jpg
#26 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

Everything does work correctly in test mode.

Ok, so now that the solenoids are working properly in solenoid test mode, you need to shift attention to the switches for those solenoids that aren't working in game mode.

Go to switch test mode. Press the switches for those non activating solenoids. Refer to the Switch Identification numbers in the manual (electronic PDF page 22, paper manual page 17) to see if the switches respond and with the correct number on the displays.

#27 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

I just don't know about connector issues because with my friends CPU everything works as it should

I know that you guys are past the point of connectors being suspect (although I would still advise repinning connectors), I want to mention that even though your friends MPU worked properly, that doesn't rule out connectors. Your MPU connectors might be trashed while your friends are not. Given the amount of corrosion that you've abated on that MPU, the connectors would almost have to be a suspect. Even without corrosion, classic Bally connectors lose their plating over time and become unreliable. J4/1-4 on the MPU provide the 4-bit interface to the driver board that is used to select 1 of 16 coils to fire.

And now...back to our regularly scheduled program...
Nice work quench.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#28 6 months ago

Ok figured it out. I had forgotten that I had undone the wires to the switches of the right and bottom pop bumpers because they were shotgunning. They would not do it right away the machine would have to be on awhile. So after testing with my friends CPU i thought i will undo them until i get my CPU figured out. I soldered them back on and turned the machine back on and in a little while they started shotgunning like crazy. So I cut the ceramic disc capacitors off all the pop bumper switches. It has not shot gunned since. Now everything works as it should. Do those capacitors need to be replaced or is fine to just leave them off? Thanks everyone

#29 6 months ago

Yes, replace the caps. They assist the machine in detecting short hits.

They almost always need to be replaced in this era machine if the originals are still installed.

#30 6 months ago

I will replace the caps. If anyone on here is good at combining .bin files and would be Interested in helping me on another project I have going please PM me. I am trying to do a one chip conversion that I found on the net. I would like someone to combine the 8 .bin files I have and send the file created back to me. So i can compare yours to the one i made and see if it is correct. I wont go in detail about it on here. I will mark this as resolved. Thanks everyone

#31 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

I will replace the caps. If anyone on here is good at combining .bin files and would be Interested in helping me on another project I have going please PM me. I am trying to do a one chip conversion that I found on the net. I would like someone to combine the 8 .bin files I have and send the file created back to me. So i can compare yours to the one i made and see if it is correct. I wont go in detail about it on here. I will mark this as
resolved. Thanks everyone

you can use as many files as you want with the copy command just put a '+' between each one. syntax

COPY /B 1.BIN+2.BIN+3.BIN+4.BIN+5.BIN+6.BIN+7.BIN+8.BIN 1-8.BIN

#32 6 months ago

barakandl thanks, let me ask you would it make a difference in the way it copied them if you had a space between the files and the plus sign like the bottom one. I am trying to make sure how this works so I know I should have a file that will work. I have verified the 8 files as good. I have checked and rechecked the modes on the board but If the file is good for sure then I can investigate other things. I combined the files using the bottom command line.

COPY /B 1.BIN+2.BIN+3.BIN+4.BIN+5.BIN+6.BIN+7.BIN+8.BIN 1-8.BIN
COPY /B 1.BIN + 2.BIN + 3.BIN + 4.BIN + 5.BIN + 6.BIN + 7.BIN + 8.BIN 1-8.BIN

#33 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballman3:

barakandl thanks, let me ask you would it make a difference in the way it copied them if you had a space between the files and the plus sign like the bottom one. I am trying to make sure how this works so I know I should have a file that will work. I have verified the 8 files as good. I have checked and rechecked the modes on the board but If the file is good for sure then I can investigate other things. I combined the files using the bottom command line.
COPY /B 1.BIN+2.BIN+3.BIN+4.BIN+5.BIN+6.BIN+7.BIN+8.BIN 1-8.BIN
COPY /B 1.BIN + 2.BIN + 3.BIN + 4.BIN + 5.BIN + 6.BIN + 7.BIN + 8.BIN 1-8.BIN

doesn't matter space or not. either way works.

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