the next step after the search wipers are released is the 1-2-3 or 4-5-6 search index coil needs to power and hold the search wipers on the winning rivets.

if neither of those coils appears to be doing anything when you have a win on cards 1-3 or 4-6, then the common part of the circuit is suspect. Look at the stuff around schem K20. If you slap a voltmeter between wires 50 and 70 (50V fuse or fat orange wire on any handy 50V coil) and don't see 50V, you've got a problem.

don't forget there's plug connections in the circuit too, so low voltage could be dirty plug pins or poor clamping force.

you can grab a search wiper arm and stop/slow the wiper rotation on a position where three adjacent search relays are powered. If you look at manual page 13-16 it'll tell you the positions were the lines are checked. However, if all the search relays are chattering and you're pretty sure the contacts on them are ok, you can just jumper from wire 50 (or 30) directly onto 52-2, 53-2 or 54-2 and the search relays will be bypassed.

goal is to get the search wipers to stop. After that, the score index relays BPC talked about should power and release the associated cams for payout.

when a yellow line doesn't pay at all, first things to check is the yellow line relay switch contacts for the card that doesn't work. Easiest way is to stick paper under the wiper fingers on the score disc (called a "replay counter unit" on most bingos) for that card, then use an ohmmeter with game power off on the selection unit disc and score disc wires while manually closing the yellow line relay.

for example, for a card 3 yellow line problem, stick ohmmeter probes on wire 50-3 and 18-6 (see diagrams in manual) and manually close the yellow line relay. You should get almost zero ohms.

when 3-in-line works but 4+ in line doesn't, set up a 4+ in line win and look at two things:
- while it's paying 3-in-line, are four adjacent search relays powered or just three. If 3, problem is likely on the search disc.
- if four search relays were powered and after the 3 payout completes, push your finger down on the score disc wipers and wiggle when the game is scanning for wins. If the search wipers stop again and the game starts paying - and pays when you mess with the wiper pressure - clean off the printed circuit traces so they are shiny copper and make sure the wipers are pressing down on the traces. Don't use something too abrasive - you don't want scratches in the copper.

if you have the score discs unscrewed from the back door and flipped around for easy access, please take hi-res pictures of the contact plate. My manual oddly doesn't show the copper trace details. If you push in the reset plunger, you should be able to spin the wipers freely to get them out of the way and use something like 0000 synthetic steel wool and denatured alcohol to clean off the traces.

for an underpay, is it paying:
1] the correct amount for a lesser pay - e.g. is it paying the 3-in-line score for a 4+-in-line?
or
2] is it paying some number of credits less than the correct amount, but more than the correct pay for a lesser win?

[1] usually means a problem with win detection - search relays now powering or switches on search relays bad - but could be [2] below on 4+ wins.
[2] usually is a problem with poor wiper<->trace contact on a replay counter. The pay stops when the crud causes a break in the circuit partway along a trace.

a typical trace-style replay counter is below (shoot-a-line has different patterns and some 1/2 sized ones). Payout stops when the counter-clockwise moving wipers step off the end of the "hot" payout trace. For 4+ wins, the 3-in-line trace(s) are also active.

misadjusted replay cams index unit switches can cause burning/pitting at regular intervals along the traces, and eventually loss of connection at the burns.

could also be someone has wired the replay counters in a way that doesn't match the score card. There as a FO-259A document in the instruction envelope that explained how to change the payouts. I don't have that.

replaycounter (resized).jpg

card 3 yellow not scoring sounds like the yellow line relay switch C - see manual page 20. Clean/adjust the switch and verify with the ohmmeter if you want. You care about the center/moving blade to the blade it touches when pushing the relay armature/plate onto the coil top. A properly adjusted switch has the contacts touch, then the moving blade keeps going a little and moves both blades. That "overtravel" helps scrub the contacts.

for the rest, it's a little hard to say without good diagram/pictures of the replay counter units - you'd need to unscrew the unit from the door and take a picture of the wipers/contact plate.

on all the cards wire 52-2 is 3-in-line, 53-2 is 4-in-line and 54-2 is 5-in-line. You can look at the diagrams in the manual to see where those wire attach if the colors are hard to make out.

couple thoughts from guesses looking at the schematic:

- on card 5, how many search relays are powered when you have a 4 or 5-in-line win? If only three, poor wiper<->rivet contact on the search disc is likely. If the correct number of search relays are powered, then check the wiring on the replay counter wipers. Give them a tug....if you pull them off, they were broken anyway.

- the schematic implies there's adjust plugs on the replay counters (or maybe they are on the back door. I don't have high enough res pictures to see what the back door ones are). Yank the plugs, squeeze the sockets hard, and push the plugs back in. if the plug pins have black crud on them, clean that off with something that won't scratch the metal like a scotchbrite pad or steel wool. You mainly care about the inside/outside tangent points that the socket tabs actually touch...most of the pin surface isn't electrically useful. You can't easily clean the sockets and it doesn't seem necessary - they scrape clean if the pins are in tight.

- for card 6 runaway payout, can you manually step the replay counter unit all the way up to the flat spot in the white ratchet, or is the center spring wound too tight and the unit is unable to step that far? If it can't make it to the flat spot where the wipers should have stepped off the copper trace, payout won't stop.

if you're bored, high res pictures of the inside of the game is always helpful. Post 'em here or email to [email protected]. Videos are good too, tho usually too big to email so contact me for alternatives or use a shared folder on dropbox/google drive/onedrive/etc.

that paint job looks better than the original game

adjusting switches is easier if you have an adjuster tool that you can get from pinball parts places. 90 degree and 45 degree ends are the most useful… but needle nose pliers work if you just need to fiddle with a couple and you have room to get the plier jaws in.

bend the non-moving blade where it enters the stack. Rarely you'll need to bend the moving blade to fix previous work or if the moving blade needs to supply pressure to something and it's gotten weak.

make sure the switch stack screws are snugged down before adjusting, but don't crank too hard. The screws are pretty soft and you can shear them off - especially the longest ones. You snug the screw closest to the switch blades first.

the switches on the yellow relay are pretty rare. There's kinda two moving blades, but the best you can do with the one that isn't poking thru the brown switch lifter is make sure it resting hard against the short blade when the relay plate/armature is up/off the coil top, and clean the contacts.

since you can't easily get to the switches in the back, you either remove the entire relay from the back door and spin it around for access, or you have to remove the front stack. Since it's a single relay, I'd take it off the back door I you ever need to. Your problem is card 3, so you can access the problem switch directly - it's the second one from the right on the tall stack in the back. Try cleaning the contacts. If the flat one is pitted, you may need to file it. You're guaranteed to have overtravel since you need it to push the left blade away from the short one.

interesting repair for the burnt traces...solder a hunk of copper on top. I guess it works if the wiper contact goes down the lip without losing the connection.

To improve the wiper<->trace contact, there's three things:
- make sure the traces are shiny copper by scrubbing with a scotchbrite pad. I use some contact cleaner/lube on the traces after to help slow oxidation.

- reset the wipers and remove the center screw. While holding the white nylon ratchet so it can't move away from the unit frame (more important when putting the wipers back), pull off the wipers and you can bend all the fingers down a little. They contacts should all be roughly in the same plane. You don't want a ton of pressure on the traces as that will make resetting harder.

- clean any crud off the wiper contacts

for the unit that can't step up due to the center spring tension:

1] unhook the center spring from the peg, unwind and take it off.

2] clean the spring with something like alcohol so the coils aren't sticking together

3] spin the ratchet/wipers and make sure the wipers move freely. If they seem sticky, remove them and spin the ratchet. If that's sticky, you need to remove it, clean it, and the hole it goes thru. No lube needed on plastic parts. You're probably lucky and can just pull out the ratchet while holding the arms/pawls away from it....no switches hanging out over the ratchet.

4] put stuff back on. The rule of thumb is you want 1.5 to 2 turns of tension on the spring and there's 4 holes in the ratchet you can hook the spring end into. Put the wipers in the reset position, hook the spring in a hole, wind it around and put it on the post. Test that the unit will reset from the first step and you can step it up all the way.

if you do remove wipers and let the ratchet move far enough from the frame for the stop barb to disengage the stop, the center spring tension will unwind. Not a big deal. Take off the center spring, position the ratchet correctly against the stop, install the wipers and install the center spring.

one of these years we'll post short video of this kind of stuff...way easier to see than read all the above. Maybe a youtube channel.

if you knocked a wire off that easily, it wasn't doing much anyway and may have been your yellow scores problem. The yellow wire is only for the yellow scores. Solder the one on card 3 the same as the one on card 2. Check the red wire soldering to the finger also...doesn't look too healthy in the pic.

white 3-in-line payout is the wiper finger with the red wire. Electrically, you want the lug wire on the 3L pad to connect to the lug wire on the A pad (under the wipers in the pic). For debugging, jumper from the A pad lug to:
- 3L pad
- both ends of the red wire
- wiggle the red wire/end wiper finger down on the printed circuit trace

that'll tell you where the bad connection is.

for card 5, did you remove the wiper and clean the contacts, bend down the fingers a little, and clean the contact plate really well? If you do take off the wiper, please post pics of the back side of the wipers and the contact plate with no wipers installed.

you're having fun

referring to the attached image, win detection requires getting the appropriate search index coil to power. The diagram shows the 1-2-3 search index and the path for a 3-in-line win on card 1.

the transformer "hot" from the fuse is the orange wire 70 on the bottom and has a 4-5-6 search index switch in it, but otherwise there's nothing else. The transformer neutral/ground is yellow wire 30 on top and you need to be able to walk a closed path from there down along the yellow highlight to the top of the 1-2-3 search index coil.

normally I debug with a voltmeter, but in this case you have an annoying problem. The search wipers are spinning, so the circuits in the red box keep connecting/disconnecting … and that causes the search relay switches in the blue cloud to keep opening closing.

you have three choices:

1] hold the search wipers with your hand on the winning rivets. In this method you can verify the search relays are powering and you could use a voltmeter with one probe on wire 70 and the other everywhere along the yellow path to find where the 50V disappeared or dropped a lot.

2] disconnect the 120V control motor and use a jumper to reconnect it. After setting up the game with it connected, unhook it and then you can manually turn the search wipers to the position to detect the win and go from there as above. Not ideal because you typically want to avoid the 120V circuits.

both those require figuring out from the chart in the manual the position the search wipers need to be at to detect the win....or you just turn the wipers slowly until three adjacent search relays are powered and that's the spot. It's easier … at least initially … to:

3] use the jumper wire(s) to bypass the parts of the circuit that are changing and/or directly connect wire 30 "down further".

I'd suggest [3] after setting up a 3-in-line win on card 1.

- get a jumper wire and connect one end to wire 30 on the transformer. Usually wire 30 is looping between two lugs on the transformer … in your case, the top lugs (on games where the transformer is mounted horizontally, wire 30 is on the upper and lower lugs on the right side). I don't have a good pic to verify the transformer wiring on your game. Wire 30 is also on one side of the slam tilt switch on the back door in case you can tell the difference between solid yellow wire 30 and a red/yellow wire on the other slam tilt switch blade.

- put the other end of the jumper anywhere along the yellow path. Suggest wire 52-2 on the replay counter for the card you set up a 3-in-line white win on and scan for a win. If that doesn't work, move jumper to wire 40-2 on the selection disc and try again. If still no good, try attaching to wire 91-2 on the search disc and you don't need to bother releasing the search wipers.

for all those wires, see the diagrams in the manual to figure out where the wires are since the wire colors may be hard to see.

that should tell you where the problem is roughly and you go from there. You can use the jumper between any two points you choose along the yellow path to narrow it down more.

make sense?

win_detect (resized).png

the broken off bar was bakelite … a form of plastic. Without that, the switches won't move when the relay is powered.

there's three switches on each search index unit.

A] opens start relay circuit so you can't start a new game during payout. Looks like they have both permanently open, so they must have jumpered around this someplace else

B] prevents the other search index unit from powering. This should never be an issue since only one search wiper is supposed to spin at a time. Permanently closed is ok

C] the top switches … hmmm … probably the worst that happens is when you get a win on cards 4-6, the 1-2-3 search relay may power. Since the 1-2-3 search wipers aren't connecting anything, that's kinda harmless.

the screw adjust sets how far below the metal ratchet teeth the relay armature lip sinks. The timing is pretty important, and you want the lip to barely clear the teeth as they are spinning by as that minimizes the amount of time it takes for the wipers to stop once the coil is powered. The adjust is:

1] loosen index unit and position it so when the armature grabs a ratchet tooth (hold the armture down on coil top), it stops the search wiper contacts about 2/3 of the way across the rivet. Release search wipers and manually spin them a bit, then apply rotational force while sliding the index unit up/down to adjust where the contacts stop. Tighten index unit.

2] adjust screw for mimimal clearance

3] if you can't get to the switches with an adjuster, remove the unit and manually push the armature down on the coil top. Adjust the switch blades for proper switch operation - gap and overtravel after contacts touch, then reinstall per [1] or mark the position first.

the trick is to get the search index coil armature to grab the right ratchet tooth to stop the wipers on the winning rivets. If the index unit is positioned poorly or the armature is adjusted down below the ratchet too far, the wrong tooth is grabbed or the wiper contacts are falling off the edge of the winning rivets.

the spring tension can't be too much or when the search index coil is powered and the resistor is swapped in to hold it, the spring could pull the armature off the coil top.

if you don't have the bakelite piece that broke off and you want the game to work per schem, pm me your mailing address and I'll scrounge the piece off a parts game next time I go to the pacific pinball museum. If you have the piece, google for a good bakelite glue. I've used epoxy in the past.

the A-C switch descriptions in post 28 are the same as the switches on the schem and on manual page 18. The reason it COULD work without the switches moving is:

- the A switches on both your search index units look permanently adjusted open. For the game to reset correctly with the coin switch or red button, those switches need to be closed so they must be bypassed somehow. They are on the schem at H7.

- the B switch on each search index unit stops the other search index coil from powering. The only reasons I can think of why they would care are a small extra current draw if both search index coils power and the probability that the "other" search index armature will be slamming up onto a ratchet tooth when the ratchet can't move because the wipers are locked. If the armature can't seat down onto the coil top, the thing would likely buzz - loudly. Besides that, the B switches being stuck closed wouldn't affect win detect or payout.

- the C switches are the ones that normally close when the search index coil is powered. With the bakelite tab gone, the C switch may be stuck closed...depends whether the B switch is holding it open (i.e. you needed the tab to push the B switch away so the C switch could close). If you case, the side effect is that when the 1-2-3 search index coil powers, the 4-5-6 probably does also. However, that likely doesn't matter since the 4-5-6 wipers are locked and all the circuits thru the 4-5-6 search disc are disconnected at the locked position.

the condition where the game pays 1 credit each time you do a search is pretty typical of a misadjusted search index unit. The game detects a win and releases the replay cams, but it hasn't locked the search wipers on the winning rivets. Sometimes a replay cams pulse gets thru and steps the replay register, sometimes not.

adjusting the screw can effect if a ratchet tooth gets grabbed and which one. When the armature lip is down too far, the lip can hit the top of a tooth and skip onto the next one due to the extra time it takes for the armature lip to reach the teeth.

I wouldn't worry about messing things up...if you do the adjusts in post 28 you'll be fine with two possible caveats:

- you may need a better description of positioning the entire index unit on the back plate to get the wiper contacts on the rivets

- assumption is you didn't move the coil mounting frame on the search index bracket. If you did, no problem. The adjust is to loosen the frame and while holding down the armature onto the coil top, you slide the frame up so the armature lip is seated nicely into a ratchet tooth notch (release the search wipers and spin to let them move as the lip goes in). You do that after or at the same time as positioning the search index unit on the back plate since that slightly effects the geometry.

if the coil mounting frame is too high, the armature can't pull down onto the coil top and you get buzzing. If the frame is too low, the armature lip is only partway in a tooth notch and you increase the chances of the lip popping out or wearing down the top of the teeth.

what I'd do is find out why the game works with the A switches open, fix that and adjust the A switch correctly. Then glue back on the bakelite tab and adjust the B/C switches and index unit positions. If the bakelite tab breaks off again, hit up 29REO for replacement.

The A switch in the attached is the one that looks permanently open on both search index units.

for the 1-2-3 search index to power, the B switch on the 4-5-6 search index unit needs to be closed. Maybe it is, probably it isn't...without the bakelite tab pushing the C switch up on the 4-5-6, the lifter cylinder piece and blade tension on the C switch may be holding the B switch open.

all the blathering above about the position of the search index unit, the screw adjust, etc., is all about getting the armature to hold the search wipers on the winning rivets. If the search index coil is not powering at all, the issue is elsewhere.

you'd got an oddball game compared to most. Hardly any games have switches between the search index coil and the "hot" wire 70. You've got the B switches in the circuit, so a switch problem on one search index unit can affect the other one.

you've got 29REO willing to pop by and help ya out, so messing around in there is pretty risk-free. If you can't easily check/adjust the B switch on the 4-5-6 to make sure it's closed, I'd either jumper it closed or if you can figure out which of the two wires on the 1-2-3 search index coil is grey wire 90, then you can jumper that directly to wire 70 and see if your 1-2-3 payouts work again … or at least the 1-2-3 search index coil powers when a win exists.

if you have a problem with the search index unit position or other adjusts, the symptom is the coil powers, the search wipers may or may not briefly hiccup, and then coil loses power and the wipers continue. You can see and hear the armature pull down and let go.

search_index (resized).jpg

nice! If you have details of what was fixed, that'd be interesting.

also, do you have the coin divider stuff on your coin door? There game had the ability to shunt every Nth coin down a chute into the side coin door area. Usually the mechanism got yanked out by the operators and I can't find a picture of an entirely working setup.

if you do have the stuff, please post a pic. It'll look similar to the one on Lido below, but the coil on the bottom of the door needs to have an armature piece that diverts the coin.

Lido Coin Divider (resized).jpg

great, thanks! An intact coin divider seems pretty rare. I think I've only seen one.