Single Coin Tech Help

(Topic ID: 233662)

Single Coin Tech Help

By statictrance

12 days ago

Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by statictrance
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    One image has been uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    Bingo Head (resized).jpeg

    #1 12 days ago

    Hello All -

    I'm writing here because I recently met a Father/Son duo near me that have recently purchased a bingo machine (Bally Single Coin) that is nearly there, but not quite fully working. I went over and did a whole host of tests, and while most of the machine is functioning, I can't seem to get it to score or step up when a bingo line is made. I'm a pinball guy and have never been in a bingo machine before - so I'm pretty familiar with the pieces (switches/steppers/motors/coils/etc), but the actual operation of the game is brand new.

    I've attached a picture for reference... These six large discs at the bottom do absolutely nothing and the game will not 'score' or add to the credit window. Here is what I know so far (coupled with my understanding of the functionality). If anyone has any idea of what to look at, I'd greatly appreciate the assist.

    - The game starts fine when a coin is dropped (or start relay triggered)
    - The arch switch starts the timer stepper. The customer asked for this timer to be disabled for home use, so I slightly bent the switch on the motor that triggers the timer set up. Scoring was not working before this modification
    - The balls trigger a little switch in each hole which then lights the bingo cards (all switches are working)
    - When a button is pressed on the lock down bar, it initiates a search function. This kicks both the 1-2-3 scanner and 4-5-6 scanner sequentially. If held, it keeps scanning
    - As it scans - there are 5 smaller coils/switch stacks that are all functioning, checked for proper gaps, and making contact when balls are in various holes.

    However - at this point, the machine does nothing else. If the timer motor is engaged, it just sits until the timer stops it. Otherwise, it'll keep going until turned off.

    - I checked all six bottom mechs and wipers - all steppers work when manually activated to step up - if they are not at the zero position, the coin drop/start up sequence does engage the other coil to zero all six out.
    - All other steppers function as expected when manually moved
    - Credits will decrement on start up (6 of them for the six cards) if credits are on the wheel on start up.

    Bingo Head (resized).jpeg
    #2 12 days ago

    There are no production games called "Single Coin" - they are modified (usually) Bally six cards.

    I'm guessing this is a 1970s model since there is a c button on the lock bar to press.

    The typical operation is such that the user presses the C button, the search discs turn, and when three or more relays are engaged at once, the search index relay pulls in, stopping the search disc at the point where the user has a winner. The backglass will flash double or nothing, and the user needs to press the D button for a chance at double or the R button to take the regular amount of replays.

    These single coin machines were changed in many different ways from the standard method of operation. Looking at the photo, I know a couple of machine that it is not, but I don't recognize what machine it is right off the bat. Are there 28 holes on the playfield? This will help me to pull the right paperwork for review.

    Shoot-A-Line was the only 28 hole machine, and the scoring works a little bit differently than in other games. There is also no D or R button side by side on the left, only an R button on the right.

    Disabling the timer stepup in that machine can cause other problems, potentially. Knowing the game I can advise for sure.

    #4 11 days ago

    Ok... I know it went to 28, and only cards 4-6 had 26, 27, 28. It must be a shoot a Line then.

    You also mentioned a search index relay. So even when we put balls in a five in a line (or three or four or like 13 balls at once even), the search would run a full rotation of the 1-2-3, then the 4-5-6 and then stop. Maybe that's the issue right there - but how different is the theory of op on Shoot a Line?

    I'm glad you mentioned there isn't a D or R (I'd have to check the right side to even see what's there. They are building a new cab for it as the original was pretty rough. The head is in good shape, so none of that was shifted around.

    I can get the timer back into play if it's needed. I noticed when the timer kicked around to reset, it may not have been resetting the whole way, so if the timer is needed, that stepper will need removed and cleaned.

    Thank you again in advance - I really appreciate your help on this and I'm sure my client will as well.

    #5 11 days ago

    On Shoot a line, the timer is less useful than just about any other game. If the search relays are chattering, it should be ok. If it just won't score, make sure the timer is on the 4th position, just to rule that out.

    I wouldn't run it that way, but shoot a line has a problem where it will time out and cannot be revived even if you have a winner. Not a great design. It's the only game like that. Others can restart the search even if they time out. So I can see why the customer would want it disabled.

    Shoot a line scores by latching various parts of the control unit in a similar way to the other games. It has two coils that are in a hard to access area with switch stacks whose adjustment is critical---! to making it score.

    These are located at the top of the back door behind the control unit. There are coils for 2x and 4x. Both need to be able to pull. IIRC, 4x only pulls on yellow line wins, and 2x pulls for any other win.

    Test those coils. Make sure if they pull, they change the state of the switch stack appropriately. Again, if I recall, the coils pulse, the unit rotates, and the switches remain in the active position until the cam finishes rotating. The coils may not be made to be active for very long.

    The manuals and schematic for shoot a line are on Good luck and let us know if we can help further.

    #6 10 days ago

    the next step after the search wipers are released is the 1-2-3 or 4-5-6 search index coil needs to power and hold the search wipers on the winning rivets.

    if neither of those coils appears to be doing anything when you have a win on cards 1-3 or 4-6, then the common part of the circuit is suspect. Look at the stuff around schem K20. If you slap a voltmeter between wires 50 and 70 (50V fuse or fat orange wire on any handy 50V coil) and don't see 50V, you've got a problem.

    don't forget there's plug connections in the circuit too, so low voltage could be dirty plug pins or poor clamping force.

    you can grab a search wiper arm and stop/slow the wiper rotation on a position where three adjacent search relays are powered. If you look at manual page 13-16 it'll tell you the positions were the lines are checked. However, if all the search relays are chattering and you're pretty sure the contacts on them are ok, you can just jumper from wire 50 (or 30) directly onto 52-2, 53-2 or 54-2 and the search relays will be bypassed.

    goal is to get the search wipers to stop. After that, the score index relays BPC talked about should power and release the associated cams for payout.

    #7 9 days ago

    This definitely gives me enough to head over and give it another hour or two to test further. Thank you both so much for the detailed analysis!

    One thing I did wonder - Would there be any major concern regarding Voltage that is too high? I did measure (albeit at the fuse block) when I was there - and I remember all of them reading high. Some weren't too bad (like 121 instead of 115), but others were really high (I think the 50 was in the low to mid 60s, 17 was around 28, and 5v was at around 12 I think. I had the customer write it down since I wasn't 100% sure I'd be back - but I remembered taking note of that. I used earth ground in a plug strip to confirm the voltages as correct as the machine has not had grounding mods done yet.

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 99.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    From: $ 21.95
    Apparel - Unisex
    Pinball Wheezer
    $ 49.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    £ 37.00
    Lighting - Led
    $ 4.99
    Playfield - Plastics
    $ 49.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Pixels Arcade Games
    $ 35.00
    Cabinet - Decals
    Bright Lights Pinball
    $ 19.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    $ 55.00
    Gameroom - Decorations
    Pinball Photos
    $ 49.99
    Lighting - Led
    $ 6,995.00
    Pinball Machine
    Little Shop Of Games
    $ 159.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 40.00
    $ 10.00
    $ 217.00
    $ 24.00
    Playfield - Other
    Pin Monk
    $ 219.99
    From: $ 99.00
    Lighting - Under Cabinet
    Rock Custom Pinball
    $ 32.99
    Lighting - Interactive
    Lee's Parts
    $ 150.00
    Lighting - Interactive
    Professor Pinball
    $ 7.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ModFather Pinball Mods

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside