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(Topic ID: 190585)

Sinbad Playfield Restoration (Fail and Recovery!)


By quinntopia

3 years ago



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  • 198 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by quinntopia
  • Topic is favorited by 30 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

Hello everyone!

I'm new to pinball and am now the owner of my first machine.

And I have the bug!

Of course, growing up in the late 70's / early 80's pinball was such a huge part of our recreation that I always thought and dreamed of owning my own machine.

Fast forward about 40 years and I have one!

This is a cool forum as it's been great to see all the other stories, machines, projects and LEARN a lot about how these machines work.

And, of course, how to fix me up!

And that's where my little post here comes in.

So I wasn't even really looking for a pinball machine and really had no idea about what kind of machine I would want or what to look for when purchasing.

So basically a dumb newbie!

Anyway, an email I get from a local auction house that usually has restaurant or industrial equipment featured actually had an auction a few months back with some arcade equipment. I thought this could be interesting so I browsed the listings. Most of the items were non working driving games from the past couple decades, but there was one pinball machine! A Sinbad from Gottlieb!

The description on it said "lights up, needs work" and that's it. The photos were a couple exterior shots and it looked pretty clean. Of course knowing what I know now I would have asked or wanted to see in the backbox, the cabinet and playfield close ups, but I didn't know what I was doing! LOL!

All I knew was that there was a pinball machine that looked cool at a local auction. So I checked in with the boss and mentioned to her that "hey I got a birthday coming up and you want to know what to get me, so.....". Well she took one look at the photos and told me to go for it!

I mean, these old pins look amazing! What color! What graphics! So with her support I submitted a bid.

I ended up winning at $425.

At the time I thought I did well. Well, here's where I think the learning process begins!

Once we got there to load it up I first saw why it "needs work": an absolutely empty backbox! No power supply board, no display board...nothing! Fortunately everything else is there, but it looks like I'll be learning a lot about how these machines work (and spending a lot of time reading about Gottlieb System 1's!).

Of course once I got the machine home and could spend some time looking it over the list of things to fix started to grow.

I'll mainly focuse in the playfield as that's the most time consuming, but I also had to de-rust the legs, get new bolts for the legs (only had 1 bolt for each leg), rebuild all flippers, rebuild pop-bumpers, remove some creatures nest from the drop-target box on the underside, order new rubber, fuses and LEDs.

Oh yeah, and while the flaking on the backglass wasn't terrible, I did find an almost perfect back glass from Johns Jukes that will replace the original.

And I can't forget...ordered a P1-4x from Pascal for when it's all ready to go back together.

But that day is still in the future. Marco specialties and others have been getting a lot of orders from me and my little $425 "deal" is now at least twice that.
For a Sinbad? That's probably a terrible investment, but it's more a personal pride thing now and must be seen through.

Before I go, I'll mention the obvious that vid1900 's extended mega post on playfield Restoration has been like nightly reading for the past two months! I only hope that in the end what I create is at least of passing quality!

#2 3 years ago

Okay, so here's the playfield situation for Sinbad:

The worst is this very large, very noticeable roughly two inch area where the paint has been worn down to the wood::

IMG_4550 (resized).JPG

#3 3 years ago

The other playfield issues aren't as bad and are mainly wear at the top of the playfield where it's not as noticeable, but when combined with the REALLY noticeable worn area in the main playfield, I knew it would bother me and it would need to be fixed.

And I also knew that continuing to operate this game with those exposed paint areas it would only get worse, so it was up to me to try and resolve this problem and prevent Sinbad from going to the trash heap before his time!

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#4 3 years ago

I briefly considered not bothering with attempting a restoration and looked into a playfield swap of some sort. But nothing was popping up when I searched and from what I can tell they are a pretty price!

My biggest concern was not merely the repainting, but the idea of removing the playfield parts and the whole issue of how to clearcoat was another thing I really didn't want to deal with.

But I read some posts where people built frames to protect the playfield bottom while removing all the top side parts.

Okay, I can do that! As long as I don't have to get into removing all the stuff attached to the bottom, I think I can handle it!

But there was still the clear coat question. Hauling around a playfield attached to a frame to an auto paint shop seemed really annoying.

And the more I read, the more I realized that with the sort of repair I would need (adding decals, repainting multiple adjacent colors) it wasn't really just ONE trip to get clear-coated, but many! Argh!!!

I researched some other solutions like the Varathane option. Yeah, I could do that. But the more I read, it seemed like the 2k automotive clear coats offer the best long term strength and appearance.

I felt stuck!

Then I came across a post discussing something called Spraymax 2k.

Hmmmm..... dangerous. Toxic. Difficult to use. But....it might just be what I'm looking for.

But still... it would be expensive and dangerous to use this stuff repeatedly between my touch ups.

Of course then I read about Spraymax's 1k product AND that it is perfectly suitable for putting the 2k on top!

Viola! I had a plan!
So, I removed (with great terror) everything from the top, built my frame, plugged all the holes and time to get to work!

#5 3 years ago

Playfield removal...scary. Removing the stars from the star rollovers was probably the worst. Mentally the thought of pulling out the wood side rails or lane guides was a mental barrier, but it went okay.

As others have advised, I took a lot of photos (up to 300 now! Yikes!) so I can have some chance of putting it back together correctly some day!

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#6 3 years ago

With everything removed I could really see what needed to be repaired. The yellow was the worst, but also orange, and the aqua blue.

I will also repaint the white. About the only color that won't need repainting is the magenta.

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#7 3 years ago

Very nice, I am about to start a Sinbad restore myself. I'll follow your progress. Good luck!

#8 3 years ago

To protect all the stuff underneath the playfield from paint and clear coat and other debris, I used blue painters tape and some foam material for holes.

One trick for the rollover switches was to cut the fingers off of rubber gloves, and gen wrap the finger portion over the rollover. The material fills most of the hole, and with the rollover protected a little tape holds the switch down inside the playfield so I can sand/paint over it.

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#9 3 years ago
Quoted from TxJay:

Very nice, I am about to start a Sinbad restore myself. I'll follow your progress. Good luck!

Cool! I might need your help too! It's only been a few weeks since I removed the playfield parts and in already worried I won't remember where they go!

Luckily I took a million photos, but still.

One thing I discovered about Sinbad is that it was probably one of the largest production games out there during this era. That means they are not too rare, but that's probably a GOOD THING on a first attempt at restoration!

Kind of like the VW bug of pinball machines!

#10 3 years ago

Clear coats typically have a lot more over spray cloud than you would realize. Your going to really want to be careful with every single bottom piece or it could become a serious pain later...

I don't think I would personally ever expect any switch/lamp socket/etc to work right if I left them all attached. But that's just am opinion.

I sincerely wish nothing but the best to anybody working on a machine. Just a friendly mention to make absolutely sure of the best process before trying.

Best wishes!

-1
#11 3 years ago

What's with the space between the sentences/paragraphs? Do you speak like that, with an emphatic pause?
I mean, it is Sinbad...

so I believe it.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

What's with the space between the sentences/paragraphs? Do you speak like that, with an emphatic pause?
I mean, it is Sinbad...
so I believe it.

To be honest, it's become an annoying habit due to a crappy smart phone. I have to close the keyboard screen to see what I'm typing sometimes so I developed a habit of separating so I can find where I left off. Poor memory in phone. Browser closes on me frequently.

You did mean me, right?

#13 3 years ago

No PacMan, I did not mean you.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

No PacMan, I did not mean you.

Who. ........ .... ...

did

You mean

?

!

#15 3 years ago

Looks like they'll be about 4 Sinbah restos starting simultaneously. Guess that's a great thing for planet Earth! Will be following

closely.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Looks like they'll be about 4 Sinbah restos starting simultaneously. Guess that's a great thing for planet Earth! Will be following
closely.

Should I finally

Start working,

On mine

Too?

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

What's with the space between the sentences/paragraphs? Do you speak like that, with an emphatic pause?
I mean, it is Sinbad...
so I believe it.

Yes! I tend to be verbose too. When I write I think of what sounds best if I was telling a story to you directly. It comes from years of writing ad copy I think.

#18 3 years ago

OP...please retitle yer thread to "Sinbad. Restore. By. Bill. Shatner."

We're just joshin ya man! Good start. Was seriously waiting for TXJay to start his. It will definitely be worth watching...his work is spot on. Nice to see some love for this great title!

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from pacmanretro:

Clear coats typically have a lot more over spray cloud than you would realize. Your going to really want to be careful with every single bottom piece or it could become a serious pain later...

Unless the clear coat gets in through a gap I missed, I should be fine. The entire area is sealed off: topside holes, all four sides and the bottom.

My playfield resembles a large casket right now!

But I appreciate your warning! I had to weigh the risk of screwing up the wiring harness and coils by removing them versus the chance of some spray fouling a switch or socket or worse.

Eventually I'll post the results right here!

#20 3 years ago

Here's a photo of my playfield "casket".

I'm also fortunate that I can do all this spraying in a ventilated but enclosed shed. Not sure I would even attempt this if I didn't have this place to work on my playfield!

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#21 3 years ago
Quoted from quinntopia:

Unless the clear coat gets in through a gap I missed, I should be fine. The entire area is sealed off: topside holes, all four sides and the bottom.
My playfield resembles a large casket right now!
But I appreciate your warning! I had to weigh the risk of screwing up the wiring harness and coils by removing them versus the chance of some spray fouling a switch or socket or worse.
Eventually I'll post the results right here!

Cool, I got ya.

When I first read it, I thought you were building an open frame just to hold it. Now I realize what you mean; you sealed holes etc with tape and are placing in a box essentially.

Definitely love to see pics of that as you get farther along

#22 3 years ago

And the pics are there by the time I submitted my post

#23 3 years ago

Nothing special but here are the "tools" I've been using so far:

Spraymax 1k
Createx paints
Paasche air brush (I've had this for years so the idea of air brushing wasn't too scary for me)
And sandpapers, naphtha, etc...

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#24 3 years ago
Quoted from pacmanretro:

And the pics are there by the time I submitted my post

LOL! Yeah I've seen others building these frames. I didn't want to, but it was that or mess with the scary harness underneath! Note that some parts are removed (I already removed and rebuilt all four flippers, so they are not attached until this is all done).

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from quinntopia:

Nothing special but here are the "tools" I've been using so far:
Spraymax 1k
Createx paints
Paasche air brush (I've had this for years so the idea of air brushing wasn't too scary for me)
And sandpapers, naphtha, etc...

You need more than just good room ventilation. The spraymax is toxic stuff. You need full personally ventilation equipment here. You don't want your lungs coated with the stuff.

#26 3 years ago

What might be my first mistake was putting some bondo in a few of the worst gouges or depressions.

Have you ever read so many posts or tips that you THINK you know what the right thing is to do only to go back and read another post that says DON'T do that thing? That's how I feel with bondo!

Man it is scary putting this on a playfield!

Anyway, I now have a fear that in a few years the wood and bondo will separate and I'll have another mess to deal with.

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#27 3 years ago

I won't go into all the different steps for sanding. Basically I followed the procedure laid out in Vid1800's post.

So after getting the original playfield as clean as possible (many, many Naptha wipes) and sanding the bondo and the entire playfield lightly but thoroughly to give it tooth and make it as "clean" as possible, it was "do or die" time!

I've read a couple of nightmarish posts about the first coats of clear creating a nightmarish wreck of playfield so I also waited for a decently warm, and relatively low humidity day to apply my first coat of the Spraymax 1k (which can be trying here in the Seattle area!).

Please note that I used a automotive spraying mask, goggles and gloves even for 1k. This stuff is NOT your standard Krylon and should be taken very seriously!

Standard approach: first coat: light coat with 50%; second coat: same (opposite direction); and a thicker third coat. Between each adding tooth and starting to level out low spots with 400 grit sanding black, wipe with a tack cloth, then naphtha.

I didn't get any photos of the first coats before sanding, but in addition to "locking in the paint" on the playfield I was also trying to address some pretty serious planking issues which can be see in this photo of the magenta area to the right of the "add bonus" burst. This was after a couple of coats of clear that was given an initial sanding:

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#28 3 years ago

My Restoration is obviously going to require replacing text, graphics and so forth. That would be impossible by hand, so I'll be using laser printed water slide decals that I'm working on creating. I should be able to share these here once they are done if any other Sinbad restorers need or want them.

Getting a good, perfectly scaled image of the playfield is a must to create perfect decals. My first attempt was to see if it was possible to get these with my camera. Nope. Just impossible to do!

So I broke down and made yet another purchase (it never ends!) and got one of these handheld scanners:

VuPoint Magic Wand Portable Scanner PDS-ST415-VPS-CR (Certified Refurbished) amazon.com link »

It's not perfect as it does rely on a steady, smooth handheld motion to get a decent playfield scan that is proportionally accurate, but I think it's the only way. I'll post some of these scans next (they're on another computer).

These photos are just from my camera.

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#29 3 years ago

Here's an example of the scan that I was able to get for the 'hilt' section of Sinbad's sword with the Vupoint hand-held scanner. As I am repainting the entire sword below the hilt (scimitar?) I needed to get these details scanned in to create new decals later on. I am also not going to repaint ALL the yellow, but just any contiguous areas of yellow - relying on a close paint match so it's not too noticeable.

I also need these scans to be accurate to create the decals for the keylines of the flames and inserts that have been worn away and now filled with bondo (and later to be repainted).

The scanner does show the rough spots in high clarify now. Of course, this is also after a few hits with the sandpaper so some of the loose paint that wasn't visibly an issue before is not longer there. All the more reason I needed to repaint this playfield.

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#30 3 years ago

I have some decent skills with photoshop - mostly because of my various hobbies and job I've need to learn how to use it, but I'm still no expert and need to Google to figure out a lot of stuff, but my basic plan is to convert all the above scans to clean, original-looking line-art graphics of the playfield areas I need to restore. I'm trying to create a 1 sized version of the entire playfield, but that is pretty resource heavy and overkill for what I need so I may not do that. Anyway, here's an early version of what my art looks like after having been scanned and cleaned up, but before replacing the text, inserts and keylines (which will be added in as separate layers in Photoshop).

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#31 3 years ago

Time to paint! Wait, not yet! We need to color match!

Yellow would be first. Its both the largest and potentially the most difficult. So if I'm going to screw it up, it will probably be with yellow.

So let's get it over with first.

I was able to color-match my yellow after many attempts at trial and error. For this a heat gun is necessary (or a hair dryer would work too). Createx paints are definitely a different color when dry - I believe they are darker, but your mileage may vary. So another purchase (Harbor Freight) was in order.

My yellow turned out to be pretty easy: It basically worked out to about 15 parts of Createx Opaque Yellow to 1 part Wicked Colors (transparent) Orange. They only had transparent Orange at Hobby Lobby, but it seemed to work. Its funny how a tiny drop was all I really needed to get the yellow color to 'warm up' just a bit to match the playfield.

I used some pieces of mylar (used for storing comic books) cut into small rectangles where I would test different paint combinations and concentrations of colors; dry them with the heat gun, and then place on the playfield using a variety of lights to find the best match.

Next...on to masking.

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#32 3 years ago

Masking. Cutting the frisket on the playfield is another stressful task. As Vid1800 warns biggest concern is that you cut more than the frisket and pierce through your clear coat and end up damaging the playfield.

As I have no fine motor skills or finesse, I thought this would be hard for me to do, so I came up with a 'brilliant' (sarcasm alert!) idea to get around this potential problem.

I thought I would be "smart" and trace the keylines on the playfield onto the frisket, then I would cut out the frisket away from the playfield, and then peel off the adhesive layer and apply the pre-cut frisket to the playfield. Disaster. What a mess. Fail.

The frisket is just too 'tacky' and tracing and then cutting introduces too many slight errors so that your pre-cut frisket is both impossible to lay down precisely on all the keylines. Maybe for a small or simple area, but not for the a large area like the scimitar flames or the 'add bonus' explosion'.

So I ended up adding more fisket and cutting it along the keylines the way that Vid describes. And it wasn't that bad after all (I had several coats of clear on at this point, so I was probably overly cautious). Again, just be careful not to press hard, and change blades frequently, it seemed to work.

I also used some 6mm Tamiya masking tape to fill in some of the gaps from my (already attached and still somewhat usable) pre-cut frisket fiasco. Obviously, using a type of masking tape on a playfield that has not been mentioned before is cause for concern, but since this is design for models (and not house painting) and I've used it for years, I had good faith in the Tamiya tape to be a safe bet.

Here's my 'frankenstein' masking job for the yellow spray paint (note that the blue household masking tape is only on top of frisket - NOT on playfield. Maybe it would be okay, but I'm not taking chances!).

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#33 3 years ago

First coat: My goal with the first coat was to keep it light. Let it cure, then come back with another coat (or more) to cover it all up.

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#34 3 years ago

After several more light coats, I was finally able to cover up the original paint and get a solid yellow....

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#35 3 years ago

Moment of truth. After giving the Createx some time to cure, peeling back the frisket and masking tape seemed to go okay except for two things:

1: Createx, even after curing, is still an acrylic-based paint, which can have a rubbery component. When peeling some of the sharp angles, the paint would not always want to separate at the frisket, so I went very slow and methodical not to pull up the createx with the frisket. This does make me wonder if my playfield had enough tooth for the Createx? I did sand the area with some 320 and 420 grit, so it might be that I need to let it cure or heat cure even longer.
2. As others have noticed, the Createx CAN leave a glue residue. I cleaned this with Naptha. And then I cleaned everything again and again. Once I saw that residue from the frisket I got super paranoid about getting it off for the next coat of clear/paint!

Overall, the color looks good; I missed masking a small area (which was easily cleaned with water and cottons swabs), the new yellow layer is noticeably higher than the rest of the playfield. This will require some sanding of the edges and will hopefully become more moderated with future coats of clear, sanding, etc...

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#36 3 years ago
Quoted from pookycade:

You need more than just good room ventilation. The spraymax is toxic stuff. You need full personally ventilation equipment here. You don't want your lungs coated with the stuff.

Yes. Anyone who doesn't take this stuff extremely seriously should not be doing it. Even Spraymax 1k is dangerous! This is NOT Krylon!

Unfortunately an earlier post I wrote explained the ventilator mask, goggles, Tyvek suit, gloves and full on protection for this stuff (EVEN for the SprayMax 1k, but absolutely for the 2k) was one of several lost when my phone lost connection, so that important caveat was left out.

#37 3 years ago

So everything up to this point has been in the past. I've just put my first clear over the painted yellow and am now preparing to paint the orange and white areas. Then another clear, then the aqua blue. I may also have to do some magenta touch ups, but I think those are minor.

Right now the focus is on color matching for orange.

First, start with the obvious: Red and Yellow:

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#38 3 years ago

Yuck, More of a peach than the orange, I'm looking for. Note that when I first start mixing colors its a a guessing game. I try to do as much of a gradient mix between two colors to see what proportion of each is the closest. My feeling on the above is that the combination of these two wasn't going to cut it.

Next, I tried some Wicked Colors Orange. This actually starts to look a lot better I think we're getting close.

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#39 3 years ago

The Wicked Colors orange looks way too bright when wet, but gets much darker when dry.

So starting with a new set of colors to mix together I try Wicked Colors Orange, with a touch of Createx Yellow and a touch of black.

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#40 3 years ago

Matching colors when wet...

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#41 3 years ago

And then after being blasted with a heat gun...things darken up. But I think I'm getting close. The mix on the far right looked REALLY good when wet (see above post), but after drying got too dark. The center color, with just a tiny touch of yellow was too bright above, but is pretty close when dry. The spot on the left is the Wicked Colors Orange without any other colors.

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So I think the right solution is about 20 parts Wicked Colors Orange; 1 part yellow; and .5 part black. That's not based on any measurement, just a rough estimate of what I mixed on my little pallette. The black may even bo too much at .5:20 - just a tiny bit has a noticeable impact!

Anyway, my desire to start sanding down the clear and then cutting frisket's for the orange and white has escaped me for the moment, so I think I'll grab some lunch and come back to this later.

#42 3 years ago

Lunch break​'s over. How'd the orange go?

#43 3 years ago
Quoted from quinntopia:

And then after being blasted with a heat gun...things darken up. But I think I'm getting close. The mix on the far right looked REALLY good when wet (see above post), but after drying got too dark. The center color, with just a tiny touch of yellow was too bright above, but is pretty close when dry. The spot on the left is the Wicked Colors Orange without any other colors.

So I think the right solution is about 20 parts Wicked Colors Orange; 1 part yellow; and .5 part black. That's not based on any measurement, just a rough estimate of what I mixed on my little pallette. The black may even bo too much at .5:20 - just a tiny bit has a noticeable impact!
Anyway, my desire to start sanding down the clear and then cutting frisket's for the orange and white has escaped me for the moment, so I think I'll grab some lunch and come back to this later.

Good luck. Color mixing and matching is one of the most frustrating parts of restoration IMHO

#44 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Lunch break​'s over. How'd the orange go?

Cold feet! "Lunch" has been extended.

I think that the ease with which I matched the yellow was a ploy to suck me into this orange! Its soooo close, but not perfect.

I'm waiting a bit and will come back with some fresh ideas on color mixing.

#45 3 years ago

Color me silly but you sure seem to know all the right steps for a "dumb newbie."
Dumb luck or Decapitated?
With that big sword, I'm going for Decapitated.

#46 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Color me silly but you sure seem to know all the right steps for a "dumb newbie."
Dumb luck or Decapitated?
With that big sword, I'm going for Decapitated.
» YouTube video

Luck! Seriously. Of course, a lot of help trying to follow the best practices of people like Vid1800 and others!

But there's a long way to go with this restoration and I have a lot more chance to make a mess of it!

It's funny I've actually considered creating a "process diagram" or flow chart of all the steps, preparation, supplies and parts that are needed! I do have a list I follow to make sure I am doing things in the right order. Which is my best insurance to keep me from making a terrible mistake!

#47 3 years ago

Orange is THE hardest color to match. In CMYK printing, orange is often spot-printed because additive approaches lead to brown. Straight white or black is commonly used to make it look "orange".
Try using a B&W photo to better match the shade. The differences will stand out more. Maybe better, try taking the playfield (or closely matching plastic) to be color-matched at a paint store. Some systems will give you the Pantone equivalent. Photoshop will give you RGB or CMYK values from a photo, but they're not too helpful with orange.
My Sinbad came with loose mylar disks around the pop bumpers which wore the paint completely away. I considered colored/printed mylar, paint, and other approaches, but nothing seemed that great. Lots of wax is all that's there now. Luckily, the cupped inserts distract me from seeing the worn paint.
Also, don't mess around with the boards; just get the Pascal 'everything' replacement. It's well worth it.
Good luck!

#48 3 years ago
Quoted from quinntopia:

I've actually considered creating a "process diagram" or flow chart of all the steps, preparation, supplies and parts that are needed!

Would be super awesome of ya if ya did. Not many restores on this title. Super stoked to get my (non working) machine next week. Guess I should've already ordered the Pascal board. Not in a hurry though, still bleeding from the ACDC purchase.

#49 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Would be super awesome of ya if ya did. Not many restores on this title. Super stoked to get my (non working) machine next week. Guess I should've already ordered the Pascal board. Not in a hurry though, still bleeding from the ACDC purchase.

Cool. I'll try and make one up. It's basically trying to follow Vids restoration post, but since that topic is like 800 posts long I need something shorter to refer to while planning my restoration!

It is kinda strange that there is so little resto info on Sinbad, especially since a ton were made and they seem to be pretty common (at least for that era).

Question for you...you've got some cool pins, what is it about Sinbad? I haven't been doing this long but seems like most people who have modern games don't care too much for older pins?

#50 3 years ago
Quoted from PotWasher:

Orange is THE hardest color to match. In CMYK printing, orange is often spot-printed because additive approaches lead to brown. Straight white or black is commonly used to make it look "orange".
Try using a B&W photo to better match the shade. The differences will stand out more. Maybe better, try taking the playfield (or closely matching plastic) to be color-matched at a paint store. Some systems will give you the Pantone equivalent. Photoshop will give you RGB or CMYK values from a photo, but they're not too helpful with orange.
My Sinbad came with loose mylar disks around the pop bumpers which wore the paint completely away. I considered colored/printed mylar, paint, and other approaches, but nothing seemed that great. Lots of wax is all that's there now. Luckily, the cupped inserts distract me from seeing the worn paint.
Also, don't mess around with the boards; just get the Pascal 'everything' replacement. It's well worth it.
Good luck!

Good info! And I can relate on the whole orange issue!

Yeah, I'm excited to get the Pascal board installed! My only concern is whether or not I'll have to repin any of the connectors (crossing fingers!). I know it will suck to have to do that because it will be near the end of the resto and I know I'm going to be impatient!

I had to laugh about your comment on cupped inserts. . I dont know if mine are terrible or barely acceptable. I want to pretend that I don't have to address that issue, but I think I'm going to have to. I'll be doing the 'clear coat drip method' I think one I get the paint and clear coat complete.

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