Sinbad
Gottlieb, 1978You need a TO-3 mica insulator .. they look like this .. sorry it's an Ebay link but it's the only one I could find with a picture. We have TONS of these at work.
You can probably buy one at Radio Shack etc .. you also usually use some heat sink compound when mounting with the insulator.
When or if you check the electric motor shop. Ask them for some mica board or some glastick, you can just cut it yourself and put the holes you need. they will have tons of the stuff just lying around. for the amount you need they shouldn't even charge you for it.
I already have that piece BD. I'm concerned about the actual hole the leads are going into. If they touch the side of the metal, is that going to be a problem? That plastic piece in the picture was protecting it from touching the sides, but alas I have broken it. I think the shrink tube would work if I could fine some small enough.
Letter K Wrote: I think the shrink tube would work if I could fine some small enough.
Here is a Ebay search page with all different sizes of shrink tube, on the 1st page 2/3rds down the page is the size that should work for your immediate need. Remember this tubing shrinks to about 1/3rd it's size, (in case you haven't used it before). 
Alright! So I've learned a valuable lesson about electronics today. I put the insulation back on the board and now I'm no longer frying the transformer. of course, now the player 1, player 3, and ball count electronic displays aren't coming on, and the player 2 and 4 displays are displaying gibberish.
Could this be due to the transformer that I burned out, or have a really opened a can of worms on this machine?
My next step is to get the transformer replaced or rebuilt.
Letter K Wrote: now the player 1, player 3, and ball count electronic displays aren't coming on, and the player 2 and 4 displays are displaying gibberish.
Did it display like that before you did the work that you did? You should print this entire thread out so you can back trace your steps. Also start keeping a note book of what your doing so you don't forget.
LOL ... A weekend without a pinball restoration project is a weekend without purpose. So many problems and so many solutions. It's why I just love the POS machines that I get/buy to restore nobody will touch. I did get my A-Go-Go schematic today and the rollover reproduction switches (bought eight of different colors from pinball resource just because).
Troubleshooting via email/web/phone etc is difficult at best LK. We just don't always have the exact answer. As an example yesterday I found in my A-Go-Go that the 5 volts AC was just not getting from the backglass lamps to the playfield lamps. Solution: run a jumper wire instead of spending hours tracking down the break. I still have a long way to go on it but that's what's fun. I pity those people who have to buy a NIB machine to enjoy pinball.
Thats a great point about keeping a note book ,
write down the problem and how you fixed it.
I end up looking through my book when working on similar pins a year latter.
you have to keep notes - right on 
That's good points guys, and thank you. It looks like I popped an unknown number of circuits with my insulation debacle. I'll be at this one for a while I think. Where's the best place to get these replacement ICs it looks like I need?
As far as I know most circuits are tested with a oscilloscope. It really depends on what your testing, for instance resistors are tested with a ohms meter. You test them for there level of resistance. If you have the manufactures names and part numbers you might be able to get the data sheets on the parts, thus giving you the ranges of measurement you need for the particular parts your testing...
Electronics is a strange animal and a lot of education and experience is needed to be good at it. You might want want to enlist in a experienced pinball mechanics help to get your boards tested. Getting them tested will probly cost you less then trail and error + way less stress.
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Grimsby, ON
Stockton, CA