You can eliminate the back box GI by unplugging the connector to the back box. And vice versa. Pull J1 from rect. board. Also I think there are 2 fuses for GI on the rectifier board, F1 and F5. Are you using a 20A fuse in F5? You may have to remove all the bulbs and buzz out each socket or GI circuit to find the short. Another issue could be the fuse clips. These are high current clips and often tarnish and/or overheat which cause even more current draw. Check you connectors for burns at the rectifier board.

If no coils on the pf work except the flippers, then the 1A slo blo fuse under the pf is blown. Verify with VOM, just looking at them doesn't always tell if good or bad. I have done 6 Bally pf swaps and I noticed that all of them have weak fuse clips on the PF fuse holder. I replace them with new. Make sure the fuse is tight and make sure you are using slow blow fuses. If something is causing the fuse to blow, it's probably a bad coil or bad coil diode. Keep repeatedly activating each coil one at a time until the fuse blows to narrow the bad one down. Visually inspect all coils as well. It also wouldn't hurt to check the coil voltage, which should close to 43V.

Well it seems that your issue is the coin door. Lamp socket touching metal somewhere. Remember, the coin door is grounded to the main cab so it will short the GI circuit if any of the 3 sockets and/or wiring touches the door.

For coils, Do any coils fire in self test mode? Check connections at solenoid driver. Also verify voltage at each coil lug. Coils are daisy chained with a common wire color, I believe it's the banded side of the diode on the coils. If a solder joint isn't making good connection, some coils in the loop will not fire. Is the replacement solenoid driver a new repro or a working original?