Silvermania Mania headaches

0

#1 6 years ago

OP

???

hawkster1

Inactive member

Unknown

7y 19,650 143

I've had the Bally Silverball Mania pb game the once worked then the trouble began. Originally everything worked except 50 pr rebound lights and the top target #s V...L...I...and S were iffy but the game could be played. Later selenoids began to fail, ended up having MPU board, selenoid and updated rectifier board.Machine was working as before for a little while then more problems with F5 fuse blowing on start up, for the lighting circuit. I removed the J1 connector and fuse did not blow telling me the problem is playfield ,checked for visible shorts to ground,even look over black box and coin lighting. Moved every wire harness away from ground wire just in case of a hidded short,replaced fuse and blew it again.I tried using the 9v battery trick to find one that wouldn't light,but light goes on and off real quick then clip falls off battery.Hoping for a better solution. I could play the game without all the lights working if need be but a bigger problem arose when diong the selenoid test I got the following selenoids dead Q4...Q8...Q13...Q14...Q9...Q10 kickers,bumpers,and slingshots. I had problems with the 1a fuse one the playfield popping and fixed that. Tried grounding driver transistors on selenoid board, and get no reaction. Please take me by the hand, or ideally let me know of any tech in my area (Western MA )who would do a service call.

0

#2 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,854 6

You can eliminate the back box GI by unplugging the connector to the back box. And vice versa. Pull J1 from rect. board. Also I think there are 2 fuses for GI on the rectifier board, F1 and F5. Are you using a 20A fuse in F5? You may have to remove all the bulbs and buzz out each socket or GI circuit to find the short. Another issue could be the fuse clips. These are high current clips and often tarnish and/or overheat which cause even more current draw. Check you connectors for burns at the rectifier board.

If no coils on the pf work except the flippers, then the 1A slo blo fuse under the pf is blown. Verify with VOM, just looking at them doesn't always tell if good or bad. I have done 6 Bally pf swaps and I noticed that all of them have weak fuse clips on the PF fuse holder. I replace them with new. Make sure the fuse is tight and make sure you are using slow blow fuses. If something is causing the fuse to blow, it's probably a bad coil or bad coil diode. Keep repeatedly activating each coil one at a time until the fuse blows to narrow the bad one down. Visually inspect all coils as well. It also wouldn't hurt to check the coil voltage, which should close to 43V.

0

#3 6 years ago

OP

???

hawkster1

Inactive member

Unknown

7y 19,650 143

Thanks .I unplugged connection to black box,blew 20A fuse unplugged connection the playfield and blew again,unplugged connection to coin door for start up control and coin slots,ect. did not blow fuse. Most of the blackbox and playfield lights work. I tried energizing the Q14 ...Q1..Q8 ect. selenoids and get no response, yet some still energize. Selenoid board was already replaced once. where do I go from here?

0

#4 6 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

8y 114K 8,035

Can you post pictures of the three lamps on the coin door and also one of the coin lockout coil which is next to the coin door lock?

0

#5 6 years ago

RLH

Lovef2k

WalltoWallPinball

Carneys Point Township, NJ

11y 89,300 3,854 6

OP
Quoted from hawkster1:
Thanks .I unplugged connection to black box,blew 20A fuse unplugged connection the playfield and blew again,unplugged connection to coin door for start up control and coin slots,ect. did not blow fuse. Most of the blackbox and playfield lights work. I tried energizing the Q14 ...Q1..Q8 ect. selenoids and get no response, yet some still energize. Selenoid board was already replaced once. where do I go from here?

Well it seems that your issue is the coin door. Lamp socket touching metal somewhere. Remember, the coin door is grounded to the main cab so it will short the GI circuit if any of the 3 sockets and/or wiring touches the door.

For coils, Do any coils fire in self test mode? Check connections at solenoid driver. Also verify voltage at each coil lug. Coils are daisy chained with a common wire color, I believe it's the banded side of the diode on the coils. If a solder joint isn't making good connection, some coils in the loop will not fire. Is the replacement solenoid driver a new repro or a working original?

0

#6 6 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

8y 114K 8,035

Lovef2k , hawkster1 the OP originally started this thread in another subforum and support is continuing there. If you'd like to contribute, here is the link:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/silverballmania

Consider this thread dead for now.

Cheers.

By hawkster1

6 years ago

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