Sorry Quench, but you pointed to the wroung lamp (which is the Tilt).
I've made a new arrow pointing to the right lamp.

Peter

silverball_Mania_insert (resized).jpg

Same player shoots again is green orange
Wire marker 47

20180517_195504 (resized).jpg

20180517_195957 (resized).jpg

The wire color looks to be correct, but the manual you point at is wroung.
The backbox "shoot again" lamp is connected at A5J2-9, not A5J2-21.
A5J2-21 is physicaly connected to A5J1-26 and is used for the Bonus Multiplier 5X.
This may be an error in the manual.
The German manual does have this right, just no the wire colors.
One of the reasons I make these Tech Charts.

Peter

Interesting.. Does the Green-Orange wire at A5J2-9 appear to go directly to the playfield or can you see it junction to the display/lamp door aswell?

No, the green-orange wire should go to the backbox shoot again lamp only.
This error I discovered when putting the lamp information together.
Just read back and you see what I mean.

Yes sorry, you're right. I wasn't paying close attention to where the playfield Shoot Again lamp wire was coming from (A5J3-22) thinking it was from one of the other two connections we're talking about.

Does the "A" right outlane lamp illuminate from the moment you power on the machine?

The "A" right outlane lamp signal comes from pin 13 of connector J1 at the lamp board. Just for a quick test, swap the wires at positions 13 and 1 of the J1 connector at the lamp board. Is the center "I" lamp now stuck on or is the "A" right outlane lamp still stuck on?
Swapping these wires will tell us if the fault is a short on the playfield or the lamp board - most likely the fault is on the lamp board with SCR Q20.

We'll deal with this next.

Hawk, see if these pics help illustrate what I think Quench is saying...
There is a small tab on the top of the contact, slight pressure on the tab while pulling GENTLY on the wire should remove the contact from the housing.

20180618_193058 (resized).jpg

20180618_193120 (resized).jpg

20180618_193124 (resized).jpg

20180618_193133 (resized).jpg

20180618_193201 (resized).jpg

20180618_193211 (resized).jpg

Atari_Daze to the rescue with great pics!
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Easy way to check is disconnect the J1 connector from the lamp driver board. If that right outlane "A" lamp is now off, the issue is on the lamp board. If that lamp is still stuck on, the problem is likely on the playfield around the lamp socket.
This issue occurred straight after you swapped the Q51 SCR on the lamp board for a different lamp issue right?

When you're doing this, first try pushing the wire *into* the connector and hold it there. Then use the tooth pick to push and hold the terminal release clip down and then pull the wire out of the connector.
If you start pulling on the wire before using the toothpick, the terminal release clip can jam on the housing edge making it difficult to unlock the release clip.

Q51 isn't the problem - it's unrelated to Q20.
Time to post some pictures showing the front and rear of the lamp board including closeups of Q20 (top and solder side) and the solder side of the J1 pin header.

Yes, Q51 was suspect faulty back then in relation to the non-working lamp you mentioned:

So..

Straight after you replaced Q51 to fix the initial "A" in the centre MANIA lamp issue, you had a new lamp problem pop up with the right outlane "A" lamp being stuck on all the time. This lamp is controlled by SCR Q20.

To summarise:
Q51 controls the first "A" lamp in MANIA across the centre of the playfield.
Q20 controls the "A" lamp located at the right outlane.

If I'm confused please clearly state which lamp wasn't/isn't working properly.

If you want to shotgun replace Q20, go for it.
But there must be a reason that "A" right outlane lamp became stuck on straight after you changed Q51 and that's why pictures of the lamp board might reveal why.

First thing you need to do is determine if the G.I lamp short is on the playfield or behind the backglass.

Reset the 20A circuit breaker and plug it into fuse F5 on the rectifier board.
Power on the machine and watch the G.I lamps (playfield and backglass). If they don't come on, switch off the machine and check whether the circuit breaker has tripped.
If yes, remove J1 (power to playfield) from the rectifier board, reset the circuit breaker and power on.
If the circuit breaker trips, remove J3 (power to backbox) from the rectifier board, reset the circuit breaker and power on.

Let us know the outcomes.

That tells us the short circuit fault is likely on the playfield. So lets confirm below:

Install J1 and remove J3. This will connect the playfield G.I and disconnect the backbox G.I
Let us know what happens with the circuit breaker after you power on.

So the GI fault is (was) on the playfield.

Any smoke?
Any melted wires?
Presuming the key plug is missing from J1 it sounds like you installed the J1 connector one position out of alignment.

Whats the current status? Reset the circuit breaker, reconnect J3 and leave J1 disconnected. Does the backbox G.I come on after powerup?

Is the game still booting and playable?
Are the switched feature lamps on the playfield still working?

Which way was J1 mis-installed - left or right 1 position or rotated 180 degrees?
One of the wires on that J1 connector is the solenoid 43V power - you might have sent 43V to all the G.I lamps and blown them all. Put some new lamps in the backbox and reset the circuit breaker.

So J1 is keyed and you can only plug it in one way (which is how the connectors were done from factory).

Something might have happened on the back of the rectifier board from the force of inserting/removing the connectors.

Without pictures I have no way of knowing.

Unplug the machines power from the wall, remove and test all the fuses on the rectifier board for zero ohms continuity.
Reinstall fuses that are good and replace any that are blown.
The next step is to plug the machines power back in and power it up. Measure all the voltages on the rectifier board at the test points.

Be careful, there is live power on the rectifier board.

See here for the expected test point voltages and set your multimeter to the correct voltage type and range accordingly before taking each measurement:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Rectifier_Board_Test_Point_Values

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Since you didn't plug J1 wrong, you probably didn't blow all the lamps.

Sounds like you've got an aftermarket rectifier board by the fact the J1 pin connector has an extra pin and the extra TP6. My guess is that TP6 is just ground. Does the board look nice and shiny or old and crispy?

Your voltages look ok. I would have expected TP3 to be slightly higher, and TP4 seems a little high but that could be because there's no G.I lamps connected to load it.
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This is a bad sign..

Next thing to do is check the voltages at the solenoid driver board and then the MPU board:

Your Solenoid driver board model is "AS-2518-22"
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver.2FRegulator_Test_Point_Values

Your MPU board model is "AS-2518-35".
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#MPU_Test_Point_Values

Hmm, the solenoid driver board has a big capacitor at C23 in the middle of the board. Somethings telling me that you've lost connection to that capacitor or it's gone open circuit. I expect this test point TP5 to be closer to 17 volts.

Ok, can you do this for me:
Back at the rectifier board, power on and measure the DC voltage at test point TP3.
Switch the machine off, disconnect connector J3 from the rectifier board, power up and measure TP3 again.
Let us know what voltage readings you get.
If both measured voltages are the same, we have to look at capacitor C23 back up on the solenoid driver board.

Was it the coin reject coil trying to activate and it was humming/buzzing?

These voltages seem a little low but the test at least showed a difference in the two measurements, so capacitor C23 on the solenoid driver board isn't dead.

Disconnect J1 (playfield power) from the rectifier board and see if the game starts reliably a few times - i.e. MPU LED flashing 7 times and then the displays going into atract mode.

Sounds like you might have some power issue.

While the machine is OFF:
Plug J4 at the MPU board in and out a few times.
Plug J3 at the Solenoid Driver Board in and out a few times.
Plug J3 at the rectifier board in and out a few times.
Reconnect J1 on the rectifier board.

Confirm each plug is correctly positioned then power up the game a couple of times and see if it reliably boots each time.

So the MPU board is booting reliably now?
Can you please measure the DC voltage again at test point TP3 on the rectifier board and report back.
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Can you clarify? G.I lights or feature switched lights are working/non working on playfield/backbox?
Are the score displays coming on?
Are the solenoids working?
Can you otherwise play a game?

Since the problem started when you played with the rectifier board connectors, it's very likely the J3 connector at the rectifier board needs to be re-terminated.
This problem will otherwise return sooner or later - tired/aged/tarnished/corroded/burnt connectors are the biggest cause of issues with these old games.
When you end up re-terminating, take photos of J3 showing where the wire colors are and redo one wire at a time to make sure you reinsert the wire in the connector housing at the correct position.
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You mean the displays are working? The digit displays are totally separate to lights.

What's happening with the 20A circuit breaker? Is is still functioning (tripping on overload)?

J3 uses the larger terminals. They are 0.156" size. Great Plains has all your terminal/crimp needs:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=35

The F5 fuse with the 20A circuit breaker protects the games general illumination (G.I.). If this circuit breaker is tripping then you are missing the general lighting on the playfield and behind the back glass. The other lamps that switch on and off are known as feature/switched/controlled lamps. They are protected by fuse F1 (10A). These are the lights on your game that are working. But you are missing the general playfield and backglass lighting.

We call the score digit indicators "displays", not lights. The orange items shown below are displays.
The round globes/lamps are not displays.

Below in Yellow are where the G.I lamps are behind the backglass. The green locations are feature/switched/controlled lamps.
Your G.I lamps will not be working since fuse F5 is blowing/tripping.

In terms of playfield, the lamps underneath the playfield inserts that switch on and off should be working. But the G.I lamps the illuminate the playfield plastics, pop bumpers and general playfield area won't be working since fuse F5 is blowing/tripping.

Please confirm you are missing the general playfield lighting and lighting shown in yellow below. The G.I lamps should always be on so long as the machine is powered up - they don't switch on and off.
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SBM_Light_Board_Door2.jpg

Excellent graphic Quench!

I'm pretty sure that's one of your photos! It's one I reused from earlier in this thread and edited.
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Take out a globe from the game that's working.
Grab your multimeter and set it to low ohms resistance mode.
Measure the globe resistance between the solder blob on the base and the side can. This is your reference resistance reading of a good globe.

Now take out some of those non working G.I globes shown in yellow on that photo above and measure their resistance. If they're giving you no reading, i.e. open circuit, then continue to take more out and test them.
We're just checking to see if they're all blown from the problems of 2 weeks ago around post #222.

For the connectors going onto the rectifier board, it's recommended to upgrade them to "trifurcon" terminals. See the 4th terminal in this list:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=86
You'll notice it has 2 extra "fingers" to grab the pin for better conductivity. These trifurcon terminals require a different housing. This stuff is pretty cheap.
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Wise move, a proper crimper will make life so much easier and do a better job.

One of the terminals providing G.I power on the J3 connector might have had poor connection which is why you lost G.I - replugging the connector might have made connection again.

One of the globes you pulled out might have had an internal short - unlikely but possible.

Very carefully inspect all the lamp sockets that you removed/tested globes from. Look at the back of the sockets where the wires are soldered to see if any of those terminals are very loose and might be shorting. Also look inside the lamp socket for anything that could be shorting inside the socket such as centre pin being bent or metal piece of rubbish, or insulation between the centre pin and outer housing that looks damaged.

Post some pics of the rectifier board and connectors so we can see how toasty they are.