Thanks, they tell me the voltage levels from the output of U2 pin 7 downstream through U1 and onto the Q4 transistor seem ok.

Your logic probe was indicating pin 7 of U2 was pulsing at solenoid test #01 which if it really was, the outhole solenoid should have activated based on the voltage readings & jumper test. I don't think we can trust the indications from that logic probe at this stage.

Moving on, the MPU board has 4 signals that are used to select momentary solenoids. They come from J4 on the MPU board and go to J4 on the SDB.
You have already checked the J4 connector at the MPU board, this time it's time to check J4 at the SDB. Remove that connector and inspect the wire terminals in that connector housing for gaps that are too large.
If the SDB J4 connector seems ok, please do the following:

Let's manually try to get U2 on the SDB to activate the outhole solenoid:
With the machine OFF, disconnect connector J4 from the SDB and find resistor R4 on the SDB (it's in the middle of the board). Hook up a jumper wire from the GND test point to the left leg of resistor R4. Important!, make sure this jumper wire cannot touch anything else and cannot slip off.
Hook up a 2nd jumper lead to that GND test point.
Power ON the game.
Very briefly touch the other end of the 2nd jumper lead onto the left leg of resistor R1 (also in the middle of the SDB).
Does the outhole solenoid activate?

If you hooked up the jumper to the right leg of resistor R4 instead of the left leg (looking from the front of the board), that will certainly blow the F4 fuse. The right leg of resistor R4 is +5V power.

Ok, look at your picture below. The issue with your outhole solenoid stands out like dog balls Can you see it? You need to fix it.
It's a perfect example of why we need pictures..

SilverBallMania_OutholeIssue.jpg

....I'm just guessing here. I neuter my dogs.
~Steveo

DogBallz (resized).jpg

^^^ steve-o good eyes

That wire is touching the leg of resistor R63. R63 connects to pin 7 from U2 which happens to be the signal that activates the driver circuit for the outhole solenoid.
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You're barking up the right tree; you probably slightly moved that wire enough for it to stop touching that R63 joint above it

Next time you pull the SDB out, unsolder that wire and cut the stripped part of it in half and then resolder it back on so there is no chance of the bare wire touching anything else again.
Also if you have a sharp side cutter, cut the excess 1/16" leftover on that lower wire so the pointy end doesn't touch the trace beneath it.
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If the connection on that wire to the playfield is good, then it could be a suspect diode or capacitor on one of those switches.
Do any of those non-working switches have a capacitor soldered to them? Usually those capacitors look like a green disk. It's common for those capacitors to fail by going short circuit which effectively makes the switch appear stuck closed.

When the switches stop working and you remove the ball from the outhole, does the switch test mode report any closed switches, or none (none = "0" in the Ball in Play display)?

BTW, does your MPU board have any signs of battery corrosion? Can you post a picture of the MPU board when you get a chance?

Great!

You mentioned in a previous post that you played a game and then the switches stopped working. Anyway, can you remove the ball from the outhole and go to switch test mode. Let us know what switch test mode reports - i.e. '0' in the Ball in Play display meaning all switches are open, or a number in the player displays indicating the game is detecting a closed switch.

Can you please also post pictures of all the non-working switches that show the wiring connections/capacitors? With any luck, something obvious might stand out.

Yeah, the game detects/thinks one of the 50 point switches is closed and in that condition the game will ignore it until the switch gets opened. It's by design to ignore stuck switches, otherwise the game would endlessly score points which location owners wouldn't be happy about

The below playfield diagram shows where all the 50 point switches are that I can see. Inspect them all for any that might be stuck closed, or if the lugs where the wires are soldered onto them are accidentally bent and touching. I don't think any of these will have capacitors but if any do let us know.

This issue with the stuck #34 switch has to be fixed first before we can tackle the other non-working switches. We need the switch test mode to report 0 stuck switches.

SBM_Switch-34.jpg

Cool. Was it a switch that wasn't gapped properly (stuck in the closed position) or a problem with wiring on a switch?

With the machine OFF, disconnect the J2 connector from the MPU board. FYI, the J2 connector at the MPU board is the wiring harness for the playfield switches. Connector J2 on the MPU board is on the upper right of the MPU board along the right edge. Pins are numbered from 1 at the top and count down to pin 15. Make sure you're doing the following on the MPU J2 connector and not the SDB J2 connector otherwise you'll blow stuff up!

Grab a jumper wire and connect one end to pin 10 of the J2 pin header on the MPU board. Put some tape around the connection to stop the wire touching the neighboring pins.

Power ON the machine and start a game.

Briefly touch the untaped other end of the wire on pin 4 (fourth from top) of the MPU J2 pin header.
The game should recognise this as the right "I" return rollover switch.

Briefly touch the untaped other end of the wire on pin 3 of the MPU J2 pin header.
The game should recognise this as the left "R" target switch.

Briefly touch the untaped other end of the wire on pin 2 of the MPU J2 pin header.
The game should recognise this as a coin dropped in a coin chute and probably add a credit.

Briefly touch the untaped other end of the wire on pin 1 of the MPU J2 pin header.
The game should recognise this as the top right rollover switch.

Does the game react accordingly when you briefly jumper the wire at these MPU J2 pins?

Umm, if the game didn't respond to the jumper wiring on MPU J2, that's not a good sign.

Lets try it again but on a different pin. Instead of taping the wire to pin 10 of J2 on the MPU board, this time tape it to pin 9 of J2.
Power ON and start a game. Briefly touch the other end of the wire on pins 1, 2, 3 and 4 at J2 pins as per my previous post.
Does the game score and respond?

BTW, to clarify this jumper wire must be connected to the J2 MPU board pins, not the J2 wiring harness connector you've disconnected from J2.

Can you tell me if this MPU board has battery corrosion on it?

I need pictures of this MPU board.

While you're at it, redo the tests on pin 10 again incase something went amiss first time around.

BTW, does this game have 3 coin slot switches on the front door? If yes, do they all work (i.e. add credits)?

The more pics of the MPU board you can post, the better - front and back please. Also closeup pics around the MPU J2 and J3 connector areas.

Do any of the coin switches have a solid blue wire? Reason I ask is that it would be on the same switch signal having trouble at the playfield.

If the blue wire was shorted to ground by touching the metal coin mechs then that could very well be your problem with those playfield switches not responding.

Sounds like someone's wired a switch on the front door to add credits right? They probably used the wiring to one of the original coin switches.

The coin door blue switch wire shorted to the chassis is unrelated to blowing fuses.

The problem with the F5 20 amp G.I fuse blowing was determined to be on the playfield right?
From my count there's 29 G.I lamps on the playfield at the following locations:

2 rear left corner
2 rear right corner
4 inside the rear dead bumpers
3 inside the pop bumpers
2 under the horseshoe plastic
2 under the star rollover switches at the horseshoe
2 under the left slingshot plastic
2 under the right slingshot plastic
4 behind the rear "S" "I" "L" "V" yellow targets
3 under the left side plastic where the 3 yellow "E" "R" "B" targets are
3 under the right side plastic where the 3 yellow "A" "L" "L" targets are

Your first step is to find each of these lamps and closely inspect their wiring connections for any type of short circuit.

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Atari_Daze has a 6 page photo gallery of his recent Silverball Mania restoration thread - there are some excellent reference photos there:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polishing-up-a-silverball-mania?gallery&galleryp=4

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Upper playfield showing lighting:

https://images.pinside.com/6/e4/6e4b51bb3e31aa4bae30be20020207a9e2deed96/resized/large/6e4b51bb3e31aa4bae30be20020207a9e2deed96.jpg

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And some playfield shots from underneath:

https://images.pinside.com/4/f5/4f5f0febb70cce26d8896416cacc3083a9190f88/resized/large/4f5f0febb70cce26d8896416cacc3083a9190f88.jpg

https://images.pinside.com/a/78/a78b47cf7e1bfec812fb5cba20ef4c9abc5ef3ba/resized/large/a78b47cf7e1bfec812fb5cba20ef4c9abc5ef3ba.jpg

https://images.pinside.com/7/9e/79e9a4b3e1e0a2084c16454be7d41ff5e5dbdb21/resized/large/79e9a4b3e1e0a2084c16454be7d41ff5e5dbdb21.jpg

https://images.pinside.com/5/f5/5f5a71038dc47fc25fb9b2e64c0addb9f4d6f87b/resized/large/5f5a71038dc47fc25fb9b2e64c0addb9f4d6f87b.jpg

If you can't see any obvious issue with the lamp socket connections you'll probably have to remove all of the playfield GI lamps listed above and use your multimeter to look for shorts. Some of those G.I lamps are connected in groups (via thick red and also white wires) which you can unsolder to narrow down which group the short resides in.

Also, take off all 7 bumper caps and see if there's any issues there - take note of missing bumper lamps that could be causing the lamp socket to short.

Hi again

Have you organised a 20 amp circuit breaker, or purchased a bunch of spare 20 amp fuses? This was spoken about some time ago. You're going to be tripping the G.I circuit often in trying to diagnose this problem.

Just borrow some of the G.I lamps behind the backglass for now. The playfield feature lamps are more important than backglass G.I.

The playfield feature lamps under the inserts are protected by a different fuse (F1) on the rectifier board.

The F5 fuse on the rectifier board protects the circuit for the general illumination lamps - these are the lamps that are always on to illuminate the general playfield area and behind the backglass.

Need clarification on which "A" lamp isn't working.

To test the lamp and socket, grab a piece of wire with a little insulation stripped from each end.
Hookup one side of the wire to a ground point, and touch the other side of the wire on the "A" lamp socket lug that has the colored wire soldered to it. If the lamp lights, the issue is upstream and we need to run other tests. If it doesn't light, the lamp and/or socket is the issue.

So you mean the "A" in 'ball' - i.e. silverb"A"ll mania? If not, please be explicit which A lamp.

Some of the lamps behind the backglass are feature lamps - specifically the ones highlighted below. These are lamps which are controlled (switched on and off) and are separate/unrelated to G.I lamps. Picture courtesy of Atari_Daze SBM resto thread.
SBM_Light_Board_Door.jpg

Heard my name...

Here is the pinout for the A's...

A (resized).jpg

Could be, I swapped every socket on my SBM!
Do you have a loose socket you could jumper to?

Great picture Atari_Daze , hope you don't mind me using that concept in future

Try it with any other feature lamp to make sure you've got the process right. Grounding any feature lamp socket lug that has the colored wire should light it.

In this case if the lamp doesn't illuminate, the problem is local to the socket/lamp. Grounding the socket lug completely bypasses the lamp driver board logic. So you need to make sure you're using a good working lamp, the base of the lamp socket has good connection to the 5.4V power braid running under the playfield, and the socket itself is in good condition. It's common for the tip of the centre spring pin inside the socket to corrode/rust which results in poor/intermittent connectivity at the contact point with the bottom of the lamp. I cut a small piece of scotch-brite and use long nose pliers to clean the corroded pin tip inside the socket.

Heck no, be glad to supply others if needed!

Nope. The F5 fuse blowing is a separate issue.

Cool, so the lamp and socket are working. We have to go upstream to the lamp driver board which is the board in the backbox on the bottom left (below the MPU board).

The lamp driver board has a whole lot of transistor looking things. They're not transistors, they're called SCRs which are different.

From the lamp driver board schematics below:
SCR Q51 controls the silverball m"A"nia lamp. The signal to the "A" lamp comes out on connector J3 pin 15 of the lamp driver board.

1) If you ground the bottom right pin of SCR Q51, the "A" lamp should light. This only tests that wiring from the SCR through the J3 board connector to the lamp is good or not. This does not test the SCR.

2a) If it doesn't light, ground pin 15 of J3 on that lamp driver board.

If test 1 works, then you can manually test activate the SCR itself.
2b) Grab your jumper wire and connect/touch one end on test point TP3 of the lamp driver board.
Touch the other end of the wire on the top leg of SCR Q51 to switch it on.

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The F5 fuse is for general illumination (G.I) lamps - think of them as the street lights that help you see the road at night.
Fuse F1 is for the feature lamps - think of those as traffic lights that constantly change, i.e. can switch on and off to indicate things.
The non-working 23 lamps in the centre of the display door are G.I lights and are not working because of the F5 fuse.
The 15 lamps at the bottom of the display door are feature lamps - these not working is unrelated to the F5 fuse - we'll visit these later after fixing the "A" playfield lamp.

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SBM_mAnia_lamp.jpg

I've been working on a Tech Chart for Silverball Mania.
I have one blank in my file.
That's the wire code (and color) for the Shoot Again light in the back box.
It runs from A5J2-9 to the backbox Shoot Again lamp.

Here is a preliminary copy of the file.

Bally_Silverball_Mania_Tech_Chart.pdf

In that case SCR Q51 is likely faulty. Replace it with a 2N5060 or 2N5064 SCR.
Try jumpering TP3 on the lamp board to some of the other top legs of the small SCRs to see if you can make other playfield lamps illuminate so you know you got the process right.
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Please help Inkochnito with his question to complete his Silverball Mania tech chart. What is the colors of the wire on the lamp driver board at connector J2 pin 9? Note the pin numbers on the lamp driver board start with pin 1 on the bottom of the connectors and count upwards.

And for further clarification, what's the colors of the wire mentioned below - click the photo to zoom in:

SBM_DisplayBoard_SPSA.jpg