(Topic ID: 310855)

Silverball mania won't boot and buzzing

By jturner

2 years ago



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  • 9 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Knxwledge
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#1 2 years ago

My SBM was working fine for the last few months - then the other day the playfield lights went wonky and the speaker buzzed and the machine rebooted. It did it a few more times then just went to a solid buzz. The MPU LED goes dim and never shuts off.

Solonoid board
TP1 3.9V
tp2 204.8
tp3 spikes to 18 then settles to 4
tp4 249.8
tp5 spikes to 40 then settles to 9.88

rectifier board

tp1 spikes to ? then settles at 6.08
tp2 247v
tp3 spikes then settles at 10V
tp4 7.14v a/c
tp5 45v

Pulling the MPU the voltages don't change

I tested C23 and re soldered it - it was replaced before but the solder joints were cracked lose only held by heat shrink.

Whoever repaired this before wasn't great at soldering but it was working for a long while for me and the previous owner.

Here is a pic of the rectifier board
IMG_8505 (resized).jpgIMG_8505 (resized).jpg

#2 2 years ago

have you considered replacing the rectifier board?

also replace C23 & C26 and do the few mods as per pinwiki to the solenoid driver board
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver_Upgrades

#3 2 years ago

Few things:
-you should adjust your output HV (solenoid driver board TP2) lower, like to 170v if possible using the pot in that area. It will help prolong the life of your displays. If it's not adjustable the HV regulation circuit needs to be fixed
-the spiking voltages is strange, if you unplug J1 and J3 from the rectifier board and try checking the voltages, are they the same?
-inspect rectifier board connectors (male and female) for burning, charring or heavy oxidation. Consider rebuilding the rectifier board for reliability. I like to repin all 3 connectors male and female, change the bridges and change the 20a fuse clips

#4 2 years ago

The spiking is my tectronix multimeter/scope sensitivity at ps startup.

The problem fixed itself after reseating of all connectors and cleaning up some charred pins.

The 12 V line traverses the sound board connector. It could be that pinch was punched down sometime and damaged the wire as well. That’s just a bad bad practice and why pinch connectors in cars are a bad idea.

Oh well it’s fixed!?!?

#5 2 years ago

If you have charred pins I would suggest repinning them, and also dropping your display voltage

#7 2 years ago

Since the 12v is measuring 10v (should be like 15vdc) that is a good indication the 12v filter cap is out of circuit. The sound board also lets out a nasty noise in this situation.

It is probably the "12v unregulated return" wire. Commonly burnt up at the rectifier board and driver board. See vid's link and consider doing the "ground mods". It band aid fixes that 12v unreg return wire that burns up.

#8 2 years ago

I've decided to purchase a new board and connectors - with the damage to the board and traces for $60 I can get a new setup and not have to deal with trying to clean it all up.

Thanks for the advice and pointers - I had seen the thread by vid - but didn't follow it to the rectifier board section.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from jturner:

I've decided to purchase a new board and connectors - with the damage to the board and traces for $60 I can get a new setup and not have to deal with trying to clean it all up.
Thanks for the advice and pointers - I had seen the thread by vid - but didn't follow it to the rectifier board section.

I would repin all rectifier board plugs if they haven't been already

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