(Topic ID: 66093)

Silverball Mania Owners Club & Restorations Fans Also Welcome


By Hellfire

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 117 posts
  • 38 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Enaud
  • Topic is favorited by 14 Pinsiders

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There are 117 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 45 days ago

When I restored my SBM, all switches / lamps got new diodes and/or caps.
Obviously lamps don't get caps.

#102 45 days ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

new caps on some of my switches fixed my intermittent not registering problems. most of all the caps had been cut on one leg.

Are you saying the cap legs were cut deliberately? Is there a reason why someone would do that?

#103 45 days ago
Quoted from malkneil:

Are you saying the cap legs were cut deliberately? Is there a reason why someone would do that?

More then likely yes, when the caps fail they usually fail closed so the switch reads as closed all the time. One of the first things you should do when you get a new to you game fired up is go into test mode and see what switches are reading or not reading. then if its reading closed all the time, cut one leg off the cap and see if it clears. If it doesn't, no harm no foul. If it does, replace the cap. Most people don't replace them since the game is working, they call it good.

#104 44 days ago
Quoted from Tallon:

More then likely yes, when the caps fail they usually fail closed so the switch reads as closed all the time. One of the first things you should do when you get a new to you game fired up is go into test mode and see what switches are reading or not reading. then if its reading closed all the time, cut one leg off the cap and see if it clears. If it doesn't, no harm no foul. If it does, replace the cap. Most people don't replace them since the game is working, they call it good.

Hot damn that seemed to be the issue. Actually found the capacitor laying on the bottom of the inside of the cabinet. Tested it and it was working so just soldered it back in. I think we're good! Thanks everyone for the pointers.

4 weeks later
#105 16 days ago

I get my silverball mania tomorrow.

#106 15 days ago

Just have 3 bad lamp sockets to fix tomorrow.
Got a bunch of stuff fixed that wasnt working.
Almost there.

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#107 12 days ago

Just wondering Ane there any "musts" for silverball mania?

Eg. LEDs, plastic protectors, etc.

I'm thinking about swapping all the red posts out with clear. And put retro LEDs in the G.I. already. And have titan clear rubbers coming.

Anyone have pics of things they have done?

#109 12 days ago

Swapped red posts with blue. Added matrix to trough and some matrix on middle sides by spinners when I had mine.

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#110 11 days ago
Quoted from erak:

Just wondering Ane there any "musts" for silverball mania?
Eg. LEDs, plastic protectors, etc.
I'm thinking about swapping all the red posts out with clear. And put retro LEDs in the G.I. already. And have titan clear rubbers coming.
Anyone have pics of things they have done?

Depending on how rough your horseshoe looks getting a new one from Vid that really shines if he has any left is a good plan... beyond that, make sure you have to the correct posts in the middle of the horseshoe, game originally shipped with skinny posts making that shot too easy. Other than I'd leave the thing bog standard... early 80 Bally's don't need any bling imo

#111 11 days ago

Also check the caps on your standup targets and especially the rollovers in horseshoe. Mine were clipped and when I replaced them the game registered all hits consistently.

#112 11 days ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

Also check the caps on your standup targets and especially the rollovers in horseshoe. Mine were clipped and when I replaced them the game registered all hits consistently.

All caps were replaced by the previous owner, everything works 100% now.
It only had 4 bad lamp sockets, and 3 dead scrs on the lamp driver board.
It was an easy fix.

I just want to see what others have done to dress up this already beautiful game.

I think I might put star post lights and clear or blue posts in the horseshoe.

I have clear titans coming.

#113 7 days ago

Put clear and blue posts in. Titans should be here soon. Just enjoying playing it now.

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#114 5 days ago

Got titans in today.

Would anyone recommend not installing resistors to the cpu controlled lamp sockets.
So they will support LEDs.

Or do you think just buying this for $46 U.S + $45 shipping to Canada would be easier.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MB-07-010

$120 CDN, for the boards, or $10 and about an hour's time the resistor method.

If I do add resistors. I will put a sticker in the head to let any future owner know what's up.

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#115 4 days ago
Quoted from erak:

Or do you think just buying this for $46 U.S + $45 shipping to Canada would be easier.

^this

I used these exact boards on my SBM, definitely recommend!
You may want to check directly with Hans, his shipping might be less than Marco.

http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=44&controller=product&id_lang=1

#116 4 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

^this
I used these exact boards on my SBM, definitely recommend!
You may want to check directly with Hans, his shipping might be less than Marco.
http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=44&controller=product&id_lang=1

Thanks for the link. I'll check on shipping, and I'll think about it. I have the time to do it myself. But I was thinking if I end up getting another bally or stern it would be good to have.

#117 3 days ago

Just joined the club! It's a really clean machine. The owner didn't know anything about pins and had never opened it up. There's a little planking, but not bad. That's the good.
The bad is very minimal. The up kicker and kick down coils were disconnected. I tested the coils and resistance is good. So, I hooked them up. The up kicker locked on power up. So, I tested the Q12 transistor and it was bad. I replaced Q12 transistor and now the coil doesn't lock on when I power up. But when I go to the solenoid test, it fires and locks on. All other coils test fine.
So, where should I go on the solenoid driver board now? Replacing Q12 was easy enough but I don't know where to go from there.
Any advice is solicited. Cheers!
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Update: I tested the resistors on the driver board and they appear to be okay. When testing the coils I noticed that one leg of the diode was loose. So, I replaced the diode and it's working now!!!

Added yesterday:

I spent some more time on it today. I had some phantom switches around the tilt area. Replaced the tilt cap and noticed the roll ball tilt was disconnected. I connected it and found that the 1N4148 diode was bad. Replaced that and it works great now! Repaired one bad display and it's up and running!!! I'm so luck that all the boards are good and everything is working great.
Now on to the restoration phase.
Cheers!

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There are 117 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.

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