(Topic ID: 239806)

Silverball Mania not booting


By kcZ

51 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 47 days ago by kcZ
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 11 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_20190402_180907 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190402_180904 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190402_180914 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190402_180922 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190402_181143 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190402_181252 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190402_181334 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190402_181602 (resized).jpg
IMG9520190402951244379501 (resized).jpg
IMG9520190402951245069501 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190401_194231 (resized).jpg

#1 51 days ago

Restoring my Silverball Mania....Playfield swapped, reinstalled before finishing the cabinet. After the playfield swap, I had a intermittent flipper problem where the flippers would go dead mid-game. I convinced myself it was the apron (new) touching the flipper switch in the cabinet. I wiggled the apron more toward the center and it seemed to solve the dead flipper problem. I played it for about a month then pulled the playfield out so that I could paint the cabinet.

This brings us to Sunday. I drop the playfield back in, assemble the head, cabinet harness was not removed during painting. I play a few games then notice the flippers were acting up similar to before but sometimes the flippers would come back and sometimes they would just feel weak. It did not look like the apron was touching. I messed with the EOS switches at the flippers, these are on the list to get replaced. I took a file to them (new ones on order) to clean them up a bit. I did the same to the cabinet flipper switches. I turn the game on and its dead... won't boot, no LEDs on on the MPU. Testing the test points on the rectifier board, I'm only getting 6vdc at TP2 (should be 230vdc).

I was planning on bringing this game to MGC in less than 2 weeks. I'm at a loss as to what to look at next. I checked over the rectifier board per Pinwiki. Replaced the diodes CR1, CR2, CR3, CR4 with new 1N4007 diodes. Still showing 6 vdc at TP2. I have since put new EOS switches in, playfield has been partially out for all this testing.

#2 51 days ago

Fuses are all good, out of the holders

#3 51 days ago

Tested the rectifier board on the bench... still just 6vdc at TP2.

#4 51 days ago

Cold solder joint somewhere? If you work that testpoint backwards with a meter, do you have continuity all the way back?

#5 50 days ago

TP2 does not go back too far but I have continuity. R3 measures about 100k ohms, cannot find the spec for this but looking at the colors... I think it is right.

#6 50 days ago

On the bench, I'm getting 130v at F2 fuse but only 6 at TP2

#7 50 days ago

Looking over some diagrams that I found, I think that I need to check the diode area again for cold solder joints.

#8 50 days ago

What voltages are you reading at the other test points on the rectifier board? I wouldn't be worrying too much about TP2 right now, you need to be getting 12 to 14 volts DC at TP3 first for the logic boards to operate.

#9 50 days ago

TP1: 7.3 vdc
TP2: 6.0 vdc
TP3: 12.5 vdc
TP4: 7.3 vac
TP5: 50vdc

Do you think that maybe it is booting up but no display or solenoids cause the high voltage is gone? Although I'm pretty sure there were no LEDs lit up on the MPU board.

#10 50 days ago

How many flashes of the MPUs LED when you boot?
Lack of HV will not stop the game from booting only you will not have displays.
Did you repin the connectors to the rectifier board?
What about the test points on the SD/PS board?
Are all the boards original? If original boards make sure you reflow all the connector pin headers. Pay close attention to the solder connections to the flipper relay and neighboring connector header.

#11 50 days ago

MPU board was replaced by previous owner with an Alltek board. Rectifier board has the mods listed at flipperwinkel already done.

Game played great before the playfield swap only had a short hiccup after which I attributed to the apron grounding out the flipper switch.. this seems fishy now but we played the heck out of the game after this and it was fine. Pulled playfield out to repaint the cabinet. Reinstalled the playfield, game played a few then flippers started to act up, I filed a bit away on the EOS and cabinet flipper switches (temporary until New switches arrive) then game was dead. I'm pretty sure that I did not get any LEDs lit on the MPU board. I started at the rectifier board with my diagnostics. Voltages are as listed above. I pulled the board and rectifier out and still get the voltages listed and the bench with just 120vac jumpered to the pins (6&7 on J2).

#12 50 days ago

I'll reinstall the rectifier and transformer tonight to verify the MPU board's LED status.

#13 50 days ago

So the answer to how many flashes is none?
Obviously a power problem. How about pics of the boards with closeups of the connectors front an back side?

#14 50 days ago

Yes .. I'm going with no flashes but will verify tonight. I'll take pics as well but it is pretty clean. Slight brown on one connector on the rectifier board, usual suspect on J3 connector... IIRC.

#15 50 days ago

Is there a problem with TP1 measuring I'm at 7.3vdc? Seems higher than it should be.

#16 50 days ago

Only pic that I have right now...

BR1 has been replaced prior to my ownership.

IMG_20190401_194231 (resized).jpg
#17 50 days ago

I hope that I won't have to replace any of those bridge rectifiers... I only have lugged rectifiers on hand.

#18 50 days ago

Asked the wife to snap a couple pics while I'm at work.

IMG9520190402951244379501 (resized).jpgIMG9520190402951245069501 (resized).jpg
#19 50 days ago

No lights on the MPU board. 5v test point is reading 0v.

On the rectifier board, I get
7.2
8.4
12.4
7.1ac
50.8

This is a complete game, everything is plugged in. GI is on but nothing else.

#20 50 days ago

I know it's going to sound stupid but have you tried jiggling any of the connections and see if it lights up

#21 50 days ago
Quoted from timab2000:

I know it's going to sound stupid but have you tried jiggling any of the connections and see if it lights up

Yep but I'll jiggle more

#22 50 days ago

You now need to measure the voltages on the solenoid driver board test points.

#23 50 days ago

Boards look pretty clean?

IMG_20190402_181143 (resized).jpgIMG_20190402_181602 (resized).jpgIMG_20190402_181252 (resized).jpgIMG_20190402_180922 (resized).jpgIMG_20190402_180914 (resized).jpgIMG_20190402_181334 (resized).jpgIMG_20190402_180904 (resized).jpgIMG_20190402_180907 (resized).jpg
#24 50 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

You now need to measure the voltages on the solenoid driver board test points.

See below

#25 50 days ago

Solenoid board
TP1: .5v
TP2: 157v
TP3: .5v
TP4: 250v
TP5: .7v
TP6: .5v
TP7: .4v

#26 50 days ago

You need to find out where the bad connection on the 12 volt supply from the rectifier board to the solenoid driver board is, i.e. you're measuring 12.5 volts at TP3 on the rectifier board but nothing on TP5 on the solenoid driver board.
The 12 volt supply wire is from the rectifier board J3 pin 8 to solenoid driver board J3 pin 12. Usually it's an orange wire.

Note, now that you have the solenoid driver board hooked up, your high voltage for the displays is measuring correct on your meter although you should adjust the pot on the solenoid driver board to get TP2 measuring between 175 to 190 volts but leave that to later. Deal with the 12 volt issue first.

#27 50 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Note, now that you have the solenoid driver board hooked up, your high voltage for the displays is measuring correct on your meter

Do you mean TP2 on the rectifier board? That is now at 8.3vdc

#28 50 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

You need to find out where the bad connection on the 12 volt supply from the rectifier board to the solenoid driver board is, i.e. you're measuring 12.5 volts at TP3 on the rectifier board but nothing on TP5 on the solenoid driver board.
The 12 volt supply wire is from the rectifier board J3 pin 8 to solenoid driver board J3 pin 12. Usually it's an orange wire.
Note, now that you have the solenoid driver board hooked up, your high voltage for the displays is measuring correct on your meter although you should adjust the pot on the solenoid driver board to get TP2 measuring between 175 to 190 volts but leave that to later. Deal with the 12 volt issue first.

You may just be my hero here... J3 pin 8 has a slight brown to it... I poked in to measure voltage and it booted up. I have the parts to repin that... just never done it yet

#29 50 days ago

Ughhh...

I don't have any 20 pin connectors. I have up to 11 pin. Looks like 2 10 pin connectors side by side are too wide.

#30 50 days ago

Unless the old connector housing is badly burnt, just re-use it. Slightly brown, don't worry about it.

#31 49 days ago

I repinned the J3 connector on the rectifier board with .156 Trifurcon pins and associated connectors on the plug. I ended up using 2 10 pin connectors but filed the mating sides so that they would fit like a single 20 pin connector. Next time I order from Great Plains Electronics, I will get some 20 pin connectors and fix it.

Game boots up now. TP2 still tests at 8v on the rectifier board. I can start a game, solenoids are firing. Flipper switches are out until I get replacements, old ones were a bit pitted. It does seem ready to play

I'm beat and the bourbon is calling. Going to wait for my EOS switches looks like Thursday now before I play test it

#32 49 days ago
Quoted from kcZ:

TP2 still tests at 8v on the rectifier board.

Are your displays working? If yes, ignore the TP2 reading, it's an anomaly due to the 100k resistor at R3 on the rectifier board and the input resistance of your multimeter. If you want the proper voltage reading you need to measure the other side of the 100k resistor.

#33 49 days ago

Displays working. Solenoids firing. Just waiting for new switches to play test it although I may solder in the old switches tonight just for testing... New switches arrive tomorrow.

#34 47 days ago

Switches replaced. Game plays great. Will have it at MGC.

Edit:

Just to close this one out. I had to repin the rectifier board for J3, it was slightly toasty. Also replaced the connector.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 13.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
$ 7.65
Cabinet Parts
Third Coast Pinball

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside