(Topic ID: 95615)

Silverball Mania GI lights not working???

By JohnnyBoy87

5 years ago

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  • 19 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by frogman70
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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#1 5 years ago

So this is my first machine...
Is in great shape!
Factory mylar, perfect backglass, everything works great except for the GI lights.
None of my bumpers are lighting up. Not the 50's the pops the triangles, sides, nothin...

All I have done so far is replace light bulbs. (I have replaced all of the rollover light bulbs)

I have not replaced any of the GI bulbs. I am assuming since these are all out that the issue is more likely in the circuit...maybe a fuse?

Very new to this any advice is helpful.

Also if anyone has an old Bally 6 digit display that works and you can sell it cheap I am looking. My player four is out

#2 5 years ago

Hard to tell from the picture, but are the GI lights behind the backglass also out?

#3 5 years ago

If your playfield GI lights AND your GI lights behind the backglass are out, it is likely that Fuse 5 on the rectifier board is out. If this is the case, you likely have a short in a bulb or socket. See pics below if you are unfamiliar with the rectifier board (also referred to as the power supply).

Fuse F5 - General Illumination (G.I.) Fuse Woes.
There isn't much to this circuit, so if fuse F5 blows, this usually means there is a shorted general illumination bulb or socket. This is never a quick or easy fix - you'll have to do quite a bit of looking and eliminating to find the problem.

First, a good idea is to purchase a clip-on circuit breaker. Instead of replacing the F5 fuse for each test "power on", the circuit breaker can be reset and reused. This is great for G.I. problems and saves lots of money on fuses. Just clip the breaker onto the rectifier board's fuse clips with alligator test leads. A mini circuit breaker can be purchased from any lighting store.

To issolate the G.I. problems:

Remove connector J1 (playfield) and J3 (backbox) from the rectifier board, leaving J2 (cabinet wiring) connected. Power up. If fuse blows, there is a short in the main cabinet G.I. wiring (probably the coin door lamps).
If fuse doesn't blow, remove connector J1 (playfield) from rectifier board, leaving J2 (cabinet) and J3 (backbox) connected. Power up. If fuse blows, there is a short in the backbox GI wiring.
If fuse doesn't blow, remove connector J3 (backbox) from rectifier board, leaving J2 (cabinet) and J1 (playfield) connected. Power up. If fuse blows, there is a short in the playfield GI wiring.
Each time plug J1/J2/J3 is removed, that part of the G.I. circuit is removed. What ever plugs are left connected are the wiring sections being tested. If the short is in the cabinet wiring, this is easy to fix. Just examine the coin door lamps. If the backbox wiring is the problem, this too is fairly easy to examine. A very common problem here is the ground braid that connects the head to the backbox. This can bunch up and touch one of the lamp sockets on the back side of the insert (display) panel (when the insert panel is closed). Unfortunately the playfield G.I. is the most troublesome section.

Now that the offending section (playfield!) has been isolated, it is time to further isolate which strand of lamps has the problem. There are two G.I. lines in the game- red/white wires, and orange/green wires. Now find a strand (either one), and de-solder one of the lead wires to the strand (thus taking the strand out of circuit). If there is a double wire (double green, orange, red, white) on the strand, be sure to keep the double wire connected together once it's removed from the strand. This lets other strands "downstream" continue to have power. The basic idea is to disconnect a strand, power up, watch the fuse (or breaker), and repeat until you find the offending strand.

It's never easy or quick to find a problem like this, but this is about the only way to systematically find the short without pulling out every bulb or looking at every socket/wire.



#4 5 years ago

Backglass GI's are all on. They are the only ones on. It is just the play field GI's not working

#5 5 years ago

Check j1 on the rectifier in the head. Betting that te connector and header pins are toasty. You will need to repin that connector and replace the headers on the rectifier for reliable operation. Congrats on your first game, SBM is fun!

#6 5 years ago

Sorry to sound dumb but everything you just said to me may as well have been in french. Do you have a pic of where these components are?

#7 5 years ago

I have located j1. How do you test it?

#8 5 years ago

ok, so I think one of the wires is loose in the connector, what is the fix for this?

#9 5 years ago

What color is the loose wire? Can you post a picture of the area where you found it?

#10 5 years ago

Playfield GI on Silverball Mania is red (supply) and white (return).

#11 5 years ago

also there is a good chance your display 4 can be repaired if you have anyone near by that works on them.

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Playfield GI on Silverball Mania is red (supply) and white (return).

I hope BallyPinWiz hit thumbs down by mistake. This info looks correct to me.

#13 5 years ago

Ok...so I made a mistake. I thought that the j1 xenon was refering to was the j1 on the solenoid board...still not sure. Anyways the connector had 3 wires going to it, I forget which one was loose. So I went the dissasemble the connecter and ended up breaking off the little metal tab on the red wire. By process of elimination I have found that these three control the free play button, the flippers, and the main kicker. At the moment I have the wires kinda hanging from the pins and it is functioning again. I cant seem to get the wires back into the plastic connector piece correctly. I am super frustrated and need many many helps right now. Why would the solenoid board control the gi lights? I shouldnt have messed with it. And now I have the plastic connector piece dissconected and not sure what to do with it. Help PLEASE!!!

#14 5 years ago

Get yourself a crimper and some .156 Trifurcon and .100 Molex pins and whatever housings you may need and repin some of your connectors. At the minimum, all connectors on the rectifier board, J3 and J4 on BOTH the MPU and SDB, plus J1 on your SDB that is now giving you trouble. Replace the header pins too if you can. Your machine will thank you.


#15 5 years ago

The rectifier board is the small square printed circuit board with all the fuses on it (see picture above). There are 3 connectors that attach to this board. J1 is the top left. J2 is the top right. J3 is the large one on the bottom (underneath J1 and J2). The J1 connector attaches to the playfield and one of its main functions is to light up the general illumination (GI) lights on the playfield. Make sure the following wires, connected to the J1 connector, are properly attached and making good connection to the male pin that is attached to the board: pin 1 - solid white wire; pin 2 - solid green wire; pin 5 - solid orange wire, and pin 8 - solid red wire.

#16 5 years ago

So I found J1 and like Xenon75 said the connector was pretty toasty. But by some odd stroke of luck I plugged it back in, flipped the power switch, and on they came. Thanks for all of your help. I will be placing an order for connectors and pins very soon.

#17 5 years ago

Not only should you replace the crimp contacts and female connectors, but you should also replace the 35+ year-old .156" male header pins that are soldered into the rectifier board or you will have more problems sooner than later.

Crimp contacts:

.156" female connectors:

.156" male header pins:

3 years later
#18 1 year ago

Ok, im a trouble shootinfg rookie here with old eyes and im going to revive this old post that i think i have tried everything already stated(i think). Plugs on the rectifier board were already replaced. All fuses check out good. I Just got the machine and everything worked until i replaced some bulbs. Now the two top hidden gi's are out, right slig gi and the kicker. Im sure these must be on one chain but they are very far apart. Any help, please

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#19 1 year ago

Any thoughts?

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