Do as Andrew suggests. The trace pins are worthless for repairs. First time someone touches an iron to the trace it will disappear. They're used in the design phase and not really intended for production.

You've got a bigger problem than a blown-out trace. At least one of the pads/through holes is trashed. The pad/through-hole on the left (in the red circle) is shot and needs to be repaired with a stitch or an eyelet, the next one to the right needs to be cleaned up and visually inspected and tested with a meter (although it looks like part of the pad/through-hole is trashed), ditto on inspection for the next one after removing the solder.

In fact all of the pads should be tested for across board and through board continuity and visually inspected from both sides. It would also help to know if the damaged lands are pads or through-holes.

As John said you should install a socket so no one has to solder this again in the future if the chip fails.

I think pinwiki has some info regarding doing a stitch. If the second hole needs a stitch I would just bend the stitch over and use it as a jumper. It is fine to solder it to a trace when appropriate.

The board will not be reliable without the appropriate repairs.

I would suggest you read the following post on soldering. I'm just getting into desoldering and will be covering stitches and eyelets as I continue.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1

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If you like the 808 you'll love the FR-300. It could suck a tennis ball through a hose.

"He who dies with the most tools wins."

And yes they did make a pretty good jump in price.