Quoted from dr_nybble:You need to paint with just a light dusting of paint and many such passes. Paint just until coverage is achieved and then stop!
If the paint ever is wet on the surface, the air from the airbrush will push it up against the stencil edge and leave ridges. It will also cause paint to creep under any slight gaps between the stencil and the surface.
I use Golden High Flow paint straight from the bottle, highly recommend this paint.
Evidence that you can airbrush very fine lines successfully:
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Detail from a from-scratch repaint:
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This has to be the gold standard from a Silhouette stencil repaint perspective, I'm in awe every time you post pictures from it. One day I'll pick up an airbrush as you say the light coats are key.
When doing something like a cabinet however the airbrush can't be effective though, can it? Most people seem to use rattle cans and then those with a bigger investment will use HVLP. When I used the silhouette to make the stencils for my pinball/amp cabinet it looks great from a distance but you can see the build up of paint at what was the stencil edges. I'm sure I'm going too heavy with the rattle can and with more patience could lay down lighter coats and let it build up, but I feel like the airbrush would do that more effectively, it just isn't ideal from an overall area perspective... at least that is the story I'm telling myself.
Hamilton, ON
